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Hi mate, how can I keep the illumination light on without turning on the headlights? Thanks

This design is a recipe for disaster. Oil in the inlet and burn out rear so could affect emissions and possible combustion chamber.

It is very difficult to get the ball joints out. I probably had to hit that ball joint front the top at least 2000 times before it came out. This was not easy on my bmw 335ix. I wish I had a specially made ball joint remover for bmw, but I couldn’t find it on Amazon.

how did u mount it to the cars

every video i see has these male ended bolts. Mine are female and i just cant imagine being able to get them out without stripping them! For reference mine have about a inch of rust built up around all edges! haha

How to connect usb drive for music??

Hey do you know if this will fix e90 sunroof?

I just did mine on my 2002 X4 with just under 92,000 miles on it. The driver side was siezed up bad. After pounding for over an hour, using a cold chisel and an old USA made flat blad screw driver, I took a rest. Hit with lots of PB Blaster, and went to bed. The next morning, I pounded away some more. Then, I took the brake rotor off, so that I could access the outer side of the balljoint. The stupid brake dust shield wont fully come off, but I was able to rotate it out of the way, so I could chisel away at the other side. I finally got some minor seperation on both sides. I loosely bolted up the control arm, then beat on the arm, and balljoint finally came out. For the passenger side, I ordered the balljoint removal tool on ebay.

I really appreciate these small videos. Keep it up. I have an E53

Don't you have to remove the motor before trying to manually turn the main gear? Otherwise you are trying to turn it again the worm gear on the moto spindle which will definitely break it if it wasnt already.

Super fire

It's better to use an engine hoist. You can get a cheap transverse engine support bar for less than $100.

Pcv valve.

Sounds really great, is it too loud to drive daily?

This is great

This is so overly complicated... simply block the plastic rail that sits on top of the manifold off completely, block the return on the dipstick tube and run a hose from the cam cover to the ground... what you've done is bypass the valve but you're still burning the oil vapour that's coming from the cam cover

Howd you get the dome open? Mine has a glasses compartment and I have no idea on how to "properly" open it. Im afraid im going to break it and I wont be able to reattach it again. I have a 2002 BMW X5 E53

Thank you !!!!!

you fucking rawk for this yo ive been searchuing for a vid like this thanks

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I'm just going to blast mine out with an air hammer. The CV shafts look easy enough to remove, and I'll do the hub bearings and service the axle while I'm at it.

Where can order that cracked plastic part any idea? Or even is it possible to order it separately or it's the whole motor system ?

Just heard it yesterday. I'm glad I found it.

Super slept on track. I hope he never take this down.

Thank you so much you explain perfectly.

What did u hook the 1/8 hose to from the fuel rail?

Cheers mate, finally got mine closed.

My system is slightly different this video was not able to help me but I appreciate you making the video there are not a whole lot of people making any videos on this. So I'm basically commenting for the algorithm

The best way that I see is easier is remove the entire wheel hub then pop the joint out with a sledgehammer. 123 it’s over. These ball joints are to difficult to remove on the ground. Good luck I just did mine fast

Great review! What xtrons model is it?

PCV valve in the tube ur what? Didn't tell us where to even start to get a valve like that !

Thanks for this video. Mine is stuck open in the tilt position. Hopefully what you showed everyone will save my ass cause being from Canada we have a lot of rain and cooler weather now 👍

🤣🤣🤣 bullshit

Same exact problem, thank you for the stress relief!

So good!!!

Bye bye engine 😂😂

Reference for DIY people. Safety First! DO NOT REMOVE THE WHEELS. I just did mine with a floor jack and a couple of tools. 1. Remove stiffening plate from the sub-frame under the engine. It's held by 6 16mm bolts. 4 bolts are holding the sway bar and the other 2 are in front near the bumper. 2. Remove plastic cover directly behind the front bumper under the radiator with 8mm wrench/socket. 3. After 1st and 2nd are done, support engine block with floor jack. Use wood or hard rubber as buffer between oil pan and jack. Do not jack it up yet. Just support the engine block. 4. Remover 2 16mm nut from up top that are securing the engine mount. One on the passenger side and the other on the driver side. 5. Jack up the engine block until the engine bracket has separated from the the engine mounts. 6. Unscrew 4 torx bolt (E10 or E12 socket , I think) that are holding the engine mount on the chassis. 2 on passenger side 2 on driver side. 7. Remove 6 torx bolt holding the sub-frame on the chassis. (E18 or E20, not sure but I used 12 point 14mm socket to remove mine.) Pry the sub-frame loose by and inch or 2. After doing so, go ahead and take out the mounts. The sub-frame will not fall. The steering rack is mounted on it. 8. Install new engine mounts. Hand tighten torx bolt by 1/4 inch. Make sure the engine mount has some play/leeway for later when you lower the engine block. 9. Reverse step number 7. Bolt the sub-frame back on. 10. Line up the threaded bolt on both engine mount with the engine bracket hole. Slowly lower the jack quarter inch a time. Checking to see if the threaded bolt still lined up with the hole on the engine bracket. If only one threaded bolt goes in, secure it with the nut to about a quarter inch. Do not tighten it yet. Jack it up and down until you get the other threaded bolt in the hole on the engine bracket. You may need someone to lower the jack while you align threaded bolt with screw driver. Use a long screw driver to line it up with the engine bracket hole while the engine block is being lowered. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS THERE ANYMORE. THIS IS DANGEROUS, HENCE LEAVE THE WHEELS ON. CLEARANCE IS ESSENTIAL. IF YOU CAN'T GO UNDER THE CAR AND GET OUT WITH EASE AT RIDE HEIGHT DON'T BOTHER. BRING IT TO A SHOP. 11. Assuming you got the engine mount bolt in the engine bracket hole. Tighten them all. The 2 16mm nut and the 4 torx bolt. 12. Put the plastic cover back under the radiator. 13. Put the stiffening plate back on. That's how I did it. Safety First. Enjoy the job.

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Does it still provide access to some car functions that the standard unit did (ie: speed limit warning)?

Where did you buy that whistle thing called pcv valve haha I can't find it anywhere

This is definitely a more real world vid then the one I just watched in a shop on a lift definitely in the south with no salt/rust. Lots of good methods in the comments as well.

Which chords are you using

This video is perfect for the problem i have. THANK YOU!

hi..what type of oil you use..5w40?

Thanks! This allowed me to get my sunroof closed 😊

Please what did you do to the hose coming down to the bottom hole of the engine fat gauge?

how quick is the boot up from a cold start?

Was that back in November

How it feels now the car without ccv deleted?

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