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@@garyfogle-e2n let me do some research.

@@whitetonguemotorcycling I have a lot more video but it was useless when the project went no where. I’m out of the country for a few months. My son will ride it home when it’s ready.

The mounting bracket that mounts the caliper to the bike is 60mm from center hole to center hole.

The caliper to the mount bracket is 80mm center hole to center hole. Hope this helps

@@Mytwistedvoices that helps a lot! Thank you very much.

17 seconds in the video explains this decision.

@@Mytwistedvoices 00:17

Sure, I’ll get to work on it. The results is a completed seat, better for a shorter person. Just not professional looking

@@Mytwistedvoices If it is functional, it will be very helpful for me too. If you could, please do explain the process.

@@visangh do you live in the United States?

Thank you! It’s tough to consider the steps between instructions, consider “common tools” I have pneumatics and fancy equipment and how to breakdown sections in parts someone can follow. Jumping around helps no one.

Hitchcock’s is from billet now, they don’t have the decompressor anymore. please go to their website for updated information. If you’re having idle issues. 1) adjust the TPS to .67 v. 2) replace the spark plug with iridium 3) eliminate the parasitic draw. I have videos on all three. “Follow on maintenance” video in the 462cc will show how to adjust the TPS. Adjust to .67v not .50v. Hitchcock’s sells an iridium plug and parasitic draw harness (I have a DIY video too). Worth every penny.

@@Mytwistedvoices I did all that with the help of On Two Wheels Ben, eliminated the Euro stuff as well. Added the Fuel-X pro and no real change to the stalling. The bike still pops and backfires through the intake and dies, always around idle. A mechanic who works on RE bikes said it sounds to him like a valve not seating right, or the cam decompressor failing. I figured I might as well go for 30hp if I am going to have to pull the head anyways.

@@Mytwistedvoices I also saw no real specs that I could use to justify buying the Kent cam over the cheaper and more popular Tec cam. I would like to be sold on the Kent cam with dyno charts and such. My guess is that the two cams are the same except for price and that is why Hitchcock's doesn't give technical data. They are selling on what is called in marketing, prestige pricing. The name brand and the generic may be identical in all ways but some people want the prestige of having the most expensive. I have done business with Hitchcock's and they are great, but I told them I was a value based customer. Sell me on why I should buy the Kent over the Tec. It will be interesting to see if they respond and how.

@@danielben-avraham1539 sounds like you did your homework with the failing camshaft. I how you get the valve situation straightened out. It isn’t hard to use valve grinding compound to lip the valve, just takes a little time and tools. GL.

Good Luck with your project! There is a lot of good feed back with this video series. I am curious how your piston lost a huge chunk of metal? What state are you living in?

In the sunny state of Hertfordshire (said with a degree of irony since the sky here is rarely anything but grey..) in the UK. My own fault. I ran it dry through poor maintenance, so I figured I might as well upgrade if I had to take the head off anyway... I'd have attached had a pic if I could, but it looked like someone had taken a bite out of the side of the piston. Couldn't see any bits with an endoscope, so I guess I just have to bite the bullet and start stripping. A cautionary tale for any that don't take routine maintenance seriously enough..

@@steveogrady893 these bikes need good routine regiment. I have a video called Weekend maintenance.

Writing a script increases the time. I found that people follow along in their garages or outdoors. I found that some important words are hard to hear, the words I put are large and to the point.

I have a DART fly screen. I like it. It only blocks the wind on the highways.

Is it plugged into the battery?

@@Mytwistedvoices it's plugged on the speedometer, which is plugged on battery. The rpm, turn lights and other stuff works perfectly, but the sensor doesn't work properly, I tested passing the magnets in front of it, and the speed doesn't change. The sensor light is always on.

@@flamelacacio8150 sorry, I miss understood. Two wires provide power the other is for sensing. Open the connector and make sure there isn’t a bent pin. Check the sensor for plastic or covering.

Please let me know how it goes!

@@Mytwistedvoices Success! Thanks again for this detailed & clear video 🙏

At 2:18 in the video, I disconnect the battery. It’s good practice because we are going to disconnect electrical connections.

Also fuel will be exposed and we don’t want electricity.

@@Mytwistedvoices i see! Thats good! Yes i look at video, really good, thank you so much

Triumph dealer on EBay. These are the factory OEM.

Do this again, (I saw you. I went to Facebook and messenger you but it said you didn’t have messenger) Try to join “Triumph Trident 660” on Facebook. I’m a moderator there. But there are resources at the Himalayan site. Just answer the questions with “looking for mtv on all the questions “… this time I’ll accept. My bad we will get this right.

I accepted your request, I can’t seem to tag your name but it’s in the member area. Please ask what you need (sorry about the delay)

I am not familiar with that version. Make sure all the wiring is hooked up.

Thank you for the feedback! I’ll keep doing Himalayan videos. The next series will be the sidecar and the neck bearings lube. If you install this brake Let me know how you like it!

@@Mytwistedvoices if I do , I will . atb

It comes in one piece.

The first videos had voice. But vocal parts were scripted and added time. Someone told me he puts his laptop in the garage, turns up the music and reads my videos. So, words are large and the sound is off.

I got the idea from online groups. But they were so vague. The Street 750 had a couple of versions of the brake calipers. Even then some sellers didn’t put a year of the caliper or the part number… so I put it together over a couple of months.

Yes. I have done several good rebuilds but never recorded them. I don’t have the bike or I would re do this one.

The screw driver was merely moving the thin retaining washer into place, incorrectly using it yes but substantial damage abuse, no. The face of the blade was not “cutting “ into anything. And the punch locked the washer into place, proper tool. I actually have pry bars to pry into place but this isn’t thick material. Second, breaker bars are nice on 10+ year old rusty vehicles when the bolt has moved for a long time. Just used one in the replacement of the rotor on a 2012 Ford. But the nuts on the bike are have not succumbed to corrosion and the torque value of loosening the nut should be within the ratchets ability to move it. If the nut was loose, why would you sell a long expensive ratchet when literally anything should work. Not saying you’re wrong but I feel the resistance of the nut is less than the ratchet’s ability to move it. I’m not standing on it, I’m applying reasonable force with my hand/arm. If I was using my foot or a ratchet strap… that’s improper. 30+ year aircraft mechanic. The ratchet is upwards of 20 years old without fail. (That’s why I have snap-on, there is value in the tools).

I’m have finished filming a video where i actually use a chisel this time to stake the retainers. The material is thicker and warranted a different tool.

I hope so! The sidecar game has more rules than just slap it on!

I think the BBK is an excellent choice. You will find so much more launch power in 2nd and third gear.

I have explaining why that is a bad idea.

with sensor number 2 what is the setting of the magnets?do you know my friend?

It’s a person choice but I think it is worth it. The big bore gives more off the line power. The second gear becomes a launch gear to hire speeds. In turn the low end torque becomes a benefit to off roading in the lower gears. The Hitchcock’s kit is reliable and robust. The engine has not overheated or had an issues. I wanted to put an aftermarket pipe and an auto tuner to the motorcycle, but it runs like a 1930’s sewing machine. That content was scrapped.

I have had a lot of feed back from the content posted and it seems many riders are very happy with the up grade. Of course a good Hitcock's camshaft or TEC camshaft will add to the top end.

They don’t need to match, they have to be futher than the highest point on each side. I definitely don’t want them unnecessarily wider than they need to be. I trailer with another bike. Honestly, I didn’t even notice that they might be different.

I believe it should.

Thank you very much!

Have to use the clutch like normal even with the QS installed. The dealership has to code it before it will do anything.

Shifting up is with the throttle on, best at 4000 rpm. More or less and the motorcycle jerks back and forth. I shift down with the throttle off. I have a habit of using the clutch from 2nd to 1st gear.

@@Mytwistedvoices Thanks. I already heard that quickshifting below 4.000 is a bit jerky.. :)

@@carroux4050 No one told me how to use the quick shifter. I always shift around 2500-3000 on all my bikes. Someone told me 4000 rpm on the quick shifter. He was right.

Are u still happy with the Trident? Really considering it but not sure if I should pay a little bit more (about 2-3K) for the Streetripple R...which has more power and QS as a standard + more tech features...

@@carroux4050 I can ride 8-10 hours on a Trident with only fuel stops. It is 3in1 oil. Check out my video one day in Tennessee. It does the city, highway, twisters as well as a quick ride to the grocery store. (I have a Tiger 800 to go cross country with). I have ridden a speed triple, it is a track bike. After a couple hours I have to stop ridding just not a great posture. Part of the triple are very expensive, look up a brake pedal.

It’s made by Sahara Seats for the Himalayan. They do good work and at half the price. If you go to their website, the currency will have to be converted to your money.

I have no idea how a Chinese Massimo is wired. Sorry.

I believe it’s the: Royal Enfield Himalayan carb & EFI service manual. If you look at the 762cc big bore kit video, I have screen shots of the manual as I’m doing the work.

The spacers are part of the assembly. You can try to cut them off. Or return the and Use part number A964008 from Triumph. The same bobbins without that spacer.

@@Mytwistedvoices oh then they're a part of the design. Alright then, time for a new paddock.