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does it create nitro checking?

Hi Randy. Great video. I'm having a go at this myself, but my tool paths are really crazy. What did you do to get your toolpaths so "logical"?

OH MY GOD! I feel like such an idiot now, spending days staining and back sanding with little, no, or bad results, just trying to pop the grain! I'm doing it THIS way when my new Tele neck arrives from Musikraft next week. Thanks for this quick and easy video. Super nice neck too, you're a talented guy.

Hello, is it possible to glue it without a clamp? I put around 3kg of weight above it

What type of glue are you using on the blue tape to get such a good hold?

...and it *still* needs a neck reset!

Have you put any coat of sealer or primer before tv yellow color and does it make any difference if you apply sealer/primer?

Is it possible to reshape the pickguard using a box cutter? I don't have access to any of this tools but I have a cutter. The pickguard is almost 3mm thick. So it needs a lot more push to do an incision on the plastic. I hope it will work I've never seen anyone posting videos vutting a pickguard with only a box cutter.

Podrías especificar a quien le compraste la lámina en Amazon? Gracias.

white vinegar works great for any rusty guitar metal bits

sand to 12000 grit then polish to a mirror finish

Just came back to rewatch this. I love this video so much.

Its looks really bad :) The worst thing is that after that ,,restoration,, people asking on reverb 2000 Dollars. The price of this guitar is now MAX 700 dollars.

Looks like it's time for the shop assistant to have his own PPE. Nice video - clear explanations and demonstration. One question - what brand of spray adhesive do you use? The 3M spray contact cement I used in the past does not seem to release. Thanks.

hi, whats bearings sized? thanks.

0000 steel wool works great on necks for this. I do it on fender necks all the time

Quick n easy task. I used to have to do that about twice a year on my Washburn RR11v. the finish on that would polich up quick with just a hand sliding on it and that got super grippy. funily enough that is the only guitar I had do that. I keep all my others polished up with good old Dunlop polish and they never get grippy. salt from sweat builds up if you dont wipe it down after every use though and that feels worse that a grippy neck to me.

Love this episode. There at the very end. I swear I thought you were going to break out the vocals 😄

Hello sir. You should not have glued the neck back on with that gap at the bottom of the heel. And why did you put glue on the ends of the neck joint? There is almost always an air pocket there and the neck does not touch the neck block. I suggest you watch some more neck reset videos. Not trying to be critical just asking.

Why did you not use grain filler.

You got that Spark in the background 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

What a beautiful piece of art

Do you have to refinish after rebinding? On classic les pauls dont they finish over the binding? Maybe its not needed I wonder what people do in that situation.

Nice demonstration. At 8:50, it looks like you put the rounded end up against the block. I think the rounded end is supposed to be inside the JLD block up against the tension screw (because that screw's end will them match the rounded point on the tension rod).

beautiful hand made guitar😍 give away👏 give away😏

Well done sir. Great thing to do a build for as well. I specially love that back on that guitar. Seeing the colors come to life when you put on the finish is just such an amazing transformation.

Cool stuff! Sounds great.

Beautiful work

Good day, I was wondering what is the point of the bass pins, and if this would be a good idea to do on my twelve string. I play mexican regional and we double up the strings (no octaves) to give a heftier tone. Would this be a good idea for those who play this type of music or should I stick to a regular bridge doctor?

That's the first time I've seen that variant of the Bridge Dr. The one I'm familiar with has to have a hole drilled in the bridge, for a bolt and that model doesn't convert it to a pinless bridge. That's pretty cool. But as for what the Bridge Dr is used for, or designed to do, it is to reduce belly bulge. It wasn't designed to pull up the top ( the sound hole area). Sometimes that happens but not always. So it was designed to take care of belly bulge. Nice video though and nice to see there are different models to choose from now

Is this crack or literaly on its coating only ??

how do you delete the blue lines

I have one of these with a broken truss rod, going to try and replace it this summer. Looking forward to bringing it back to life, but the potential for disaster seems high...

Do you still have that synchro? That's what I'm looking for.

Is that blank sheet?

Wet the crack for sure will make the crack tighter good for glueing together.

What grit do you use to sand back the filler?

Hi sir How to clean rust from tuning pegs Plz reply

Gibson kerfed the braces in hollowbody archtops since the 30's. All but modern es-175s are kerfed. The warp doesn't occur because of the braces but more than likely it was left under tension in the trunk of a car on a hot day. It's not a difficult repair and has been successfully done many times by either replacing the braces or adding a splint on top of the existing braces.

Does the bridge get glued on and if so what type of glue?

A less invasive thing you could try would be to jack up the top to proper height and then glue supports alongside the original bracing …

You can remove the back to get the old braces out and glue new ones in … it will bring the old top back to form

The braces could be cracked … if you put your iPhone inside the pickup cutout you can take pictures/ video ….. 3 parts thinner 1/2 part lacquer 1/2 part retarded (flash coat) after sanding the finish with 600 grit could be a big help in leveling the finish …. 👍

What bit did you use for the fret slots?

Yeah, so I think you might be misunderstanding what is at play when you press a piece of plastic onto a metal shaft. The metal shaft is harder than the plastic and so the plastic has no choice but to bend away from the metal. That stress will eventually cause the plastic to crack and then break. There is a reason for using heat and that is that it makes the plastic form to the metal so that it doesn't get stressed. I think Dan at StewMack has it pretty right. And I would suggest that if you're going to drill it out, rather than heat the shaft, that you drill to a perfect fit that does not have to be pressed on with advice but just fits exactly. Then use a glue a glue, probably an epoxy but you could use a super glue if you have a very close fit. Epoxy will Bridge and fill gaps much better than Super Glue. Because the hole in the tuner knobs is in fact not the same shape as the Pressed ends of the tuner pegs so something has to fill the Gap if you're not going to melt the plastic to fill the Gap then you have to fill that Gap with glue.

Whew! I almost thought you were gonna play Wonderwall.

So did you sell it?

A good video to see where how all the parts go together (along with some handy workbench tips) is th-cam.com/video/Mnzi8mSd59E/w-d-xo.html

What a load of horse shit! fret board patina!! that is crud Violins worth a kings ransom have their finger boards shot and cleaned in the process GET OVER THESE FILTHY GUITARS THAT ARE SUPPOSED VINTAGE!!

Man, you're damn good - you restored that thing in 8 minutes and 26 seconds ~