Short Guys Beta Works
Short Guys Beta Works
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Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain
The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. Here are a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.
A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.
For more information on this video, go to:
www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/0203naturalextendedbelay
0:00 Intro
0:10 Bumper
0:19 Communication and Rope Abrasion Issues
0:44 Finding Good Natural Protection
1:00 Walking Around the Feature
1:58 Connecticut Hitch
3:33 Bowline
4:57 Conclusion
5:13 Outro
Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright
This video description may contain affiliate links; if you make a purchase through a link, I’ll receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This help allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
มุมมอง: 294

วีดีโอ

Slings, Prusiks, and Cord I Have Added to My Climbing Rack
มุมมอง 1.1K21 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
As new materials are developed into climbing tools, and as my needs on my climbs have evolved, I've changed up some elements of my standard climbing rack. Here is a look at some soft goods (slings, prusiks, and cords) that I have begun carrying on all my climbs including some pros and cons. A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situat...
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review After 4 Years of Use
มุมมอง 29214 วันที่ผ่านมา
For nearly four years, I have been taking the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism pack for most of my alpine climbs, whether that be on rock, snow, or ice. After that long of throwing the pack on my back, here are some of the pros and cons that I've experienced while using it. A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of ...
I Didn't Enjoy Scrambling (Easy Rock Climbing) Until I Started Using These Types of Shoes
มุมมอง 1.2K21 วันที่ผ่านมา
Ever hear climbers talk about “insecure climbing” and the fear that brings to them? Well imagine feeling insecure at every step up a rock face. This is what a scramble, which should be a fun romp, can feel like in the wrong footwear. Scrambles are examples of where approach shoes can really make a difference in our enjoyment of the outdoors. Here’s how their specific features combine to make su...
Why and How We Add Wildfire Smoke Conditions to Our Camping, Hiking, and Climbing Trips
มุมมอง 20528 วันที่ผ่านมา
Over the years, and even decades, of my climbing career, I’ve noticed an increase in the frequency of smoke from wildfires impacting my - and my family’s - outdoor activities. We now factor in smoke and wildfires into our climbing, hiking, and climbing planning process just like we would with weather. Here, we go deeper into some resources we use for that planning. A video can introduce concept...
Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel
มุมมอง 443หลายเดือนก่อน
Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel
Having Too Short of Climbing Rope for a Rappel (Abseil) to the Next Anchor
มุมมอง 1.2Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Having Too Short of Climbing Rope for a Rappel (Abseil) to the Next Anchor
How to Pass a Knot Through a Lowering System When Lowing a Climber More than a Rope Length
มุมมอง 618หลายเดือนก่อน
How to Pass a Knot Through a Lowering System When Lowing a Climber More than a Rope Length
How to Make Four Different Climbing Rope Coils for Different Circumstances
มุมมอง 1.5Kหลายเดือนก่อน
How to Make Four Different Climbing Rope Coils for Different Circumstances
Four Hauls that Can Assist a Struggling Climber Through a Hard Move
มุมมอง 8592 หลายเดือนก่อน
Four Hauls that Can Assist a Struggling Climber Through a Hard Move
Descending a Taut Climbing Rope: Moving Down on Friction Hitches
มุมมอง 1.8K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Descending a Taut Climbing Rope: Moving Down on Friction Hitches
Teaching New Climbers the Climbing Project Mindset
มุมมอง 4032 หลายเดือนก่อน
Teaching New Climbers the Climbing Project Mindset
Learning to Lead Belay Takes More Than Learning the Mechanics
มุมมอง 3062 หลายเดือนก่อน
Learning to Lead Belay Takes More Than Learning the Mechanics
What is Complexity Rationing and How Can It Be Applied in Climbing?
มุมมอง 8333 หลายเดือนก่อน
What is Complexity Rationing and How Can It Be Applied in Climbing?
How Climbing Demands Audacity, or Boldness in the Face of the Unknown
มุมมอง 2263 หลายเดือนก่อน
How Climbing Demands Audacity, or Boldness in the Face of the Unknown
The Long Term Benefits of Being Empowered During a Climbing Accident or Emergency
มุมมอง 2733 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Long Term Benefits of Being Empowered During a Climbing Accident or Emergency
Self-Forgiveness as a Key to Continuous Learning in Climbing and in Life
มุมมอง 3693 หลายเดือนก่อน
Self-Forgiveness as a Key to Continuous Learning in Climbing and in Life
Safely Camping on a Glacier: Glacier Mountaineering Fundamentals
มุมมอง 5813 หลายเดือนก่อน
Safely Camping on a Glacier: Glacier Mountaineering Fundamentals
Crossing Crevasses Safely: Three Techniques
มุมมอง 1.1K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Crossing Crevasses Safely: Three Techniques
Using a "Running Belay" to Simul-Climb on a Glacier has Pros and Cons
มุมมอง 2.2K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Using a "Running Belay" to Simul-Climb on a Glacier has Pros and Cons
Fundamentals of Moving Roped Together on Glacier as Part of a Climbing Team
มุมมอง 7954 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fundamentals of Moving Roped Together on Glacier as Part of a Climbing Team
Avoiding Crevasse Falls with the Basics of Glacier Navigation on Your Next Climb
มุมมอง 1.6K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Avoiding Crevasse Falls with the Basics of Glacier Navigation on Your Next Climb
Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length
มุมมอง 8165 หลายเดือนก่อน
Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length
Choosing from Rope Tie-In Options for Your Glaciated Mountain Climb
มุมมอง 8125 หลายเดือนก่อน
Choosing from Rope Tie-In Options for Your Glaciated Mountain Climb
Building a 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue Haul System and Modifying It for Climbing Scenarios
มุมมอง 1.7K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
Building a 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue Haul System and Modifying It for Climbing Scenarios
Matching Climbing Systems to Glacier Travel Specifics to Reduce Risk
มุมมอง 6285 หลายเดือนก่อน
Matching Climbing Systems to Glacier Travel Specifics to Reduce Risk
Choosing the Best Carabiner for Connecting to a Rope on a Glacier Climb
มุมมอง 1.6K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Choosing the Best Carabiner for Connecting to a Rope on a Glacier Climb
How to Pass the Knot While on Rappel (Abseil)
มุมมอง 3.1K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to Pass the Knot While on Rappel (Abseil)
Three Rappel (Abseil) Extensions for Different Climbing Situations
มุมมอง 1.4K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Three Rappel (Abseil) Extensions for Different Climbing Situations
Three Rappel (Abseil) Setups for when You've Lost Your Rappel Device
มุมมอง 4.5K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Three Rappel (Abseil) Setups for when You've Lost Your Rappel Device

ความคิดเห็น

  • @ArbitraryLifestyle
    @ArbitraryLifestyle วันที่ผ่านมา

    Thanks for the detailed route explanation! This one has been on my radar for a couple of years now.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks วันที่ผ่านมา

      Have fun up there! It's a good one, and this is a good time of year to do it. 💪

  • @doug5yuiop
    @doug5yuiop 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I would think class 4 has exposure that generally wants rope protection. This seemed more just geared to class 3 climbing.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@doug5yuiop I personally feel that smart rope work can be fast and is warranted on some class 4 and lower-class-five sections. I did an entire series on that type of rope work: th-cam.com/play/PLQQbFscw1n0JBhZPWRlsHFNZwjhw0XI9h.html&si=No1Vx8U49IoA26Wm ...but most people do not. There is a tradeoff between speed and the "feeling of freedom" that ropeless movement provides. In fact, where I live, there are many, many people who do lower-class-5 (up to around 5.5 or 5.6) without a rope. And these are just regular people, not people named Alex Hannold 😉 Risk tolerance is personal and part of why the distinctions between class 3 and 4 are so hard to determine. Hopefully that other playlist I shared gets more at what you have in mind.

    • @doug5yuiop
      @doug5yuiop 5 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks Thanks, that’s an interesting series. In Oregon several of the highest peaks are class 4 at the top. Yes, people often do them without rope, but people sometimes are injured or worse. It’s a little ambiguous how to go about tackling the class 4.

  • @macmurfy2jka
    @macmurfy2jka 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I bought The Osprey Mutant 38 as the pack has allot of similarities to this one but a a price point i could better justify. I do, certainly long to the picket pockets and kinda envy those crampon pouches. I have a friend that that has bean using the prism for a wile as his go to medium sized pack. But, I think my pack carries loads way better than the Prism. I use Mutant as my crag bag to compliment my rope bag w/ integrated rope tarp. My friend does nothing of the sort.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@macmurfy2jka I had a Mutant as part of the outfitting for a big expedition. It carries great. I just can't get my head around the extra weight.

    • @macmurfy2jka
      @macmurfy2jka 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks yeah, that weight in the pack really seams to make more sense in the larger 55L size. At that point, that extra padding, and structure that must definitely be the culprit for the weight, is better applied to carrying those bigger loads.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@macmurfy2jka I find that to be some of a design philosophy with Osprey. They all carry so beautifully, but are slightly overbuilt for anything that isn't a big haul. But when you do get the big weight, they really shine.

  • @macmurfy2jka
    @macmurfy2jka 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Most climbing that I do, around me, is single pitch with a reasonable ledge at the top and often a tree to sling around. Extended anchors are my bread and butter. I almost always sling a tree with the third method that you showed. I also use it to fix lines down to a ledge when climbing down from a stable ledge to a somewhat sketchy ledge for the top of the climb. Coming from my days as a successful youth grappler, I am of the opinion that the best technique is one that is the easiest to apply in many situation. The continuous practice in this technique results in a degree of competency that helps to ensure good outcomes. This is why I like to apply the bowline and not faff around with something like the Connecticut tree hitch. It's a core climbing knot that any climber should already know. It's the same knot that I use when rigging a Joshua Tree style extended anchor. I use it to tie back in when I clean anchors before being lowered off of chains. It is relatively easy to have partners inspect due to its core knot statues. The only time I might consider something more fancy is if I was with an exceedingly competent team and was trying to do something ambitious and wanted to be super fast. It would then need to be a technique that we practiced together and could all check each other on. I like that walk around and BFK idea! Super simple and works with how I like to build rope work systems (using already known knots).

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@macmurfy2jka I also tend to use the bowline at the anchor point(s) when setting top rope anchors. I would agree that having "favorites" that you use time and time again can increase safety through repetitive mastery. Really good point. 💪

  • @piersonmckibbon8065
    @piersonmckibbon8065 3 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I’d love content on how to estimate the time needed to complete an objective in the Alpine. Currently struggling to plan that accurately. I know there are a hundred of factors, most of which cannot be predicted, but there must be techniques you employ when scheduling your trips

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 3 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@piersonmckibbon8065 Interesting idea. I'll add it to the backlog. Probably a few months away, but seems a very good topic. Thanks! 🙏

  • @artemdorin
    @artemdorin 4 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I recommend MacLeod’s video on this topic, not that antagonist training and stretching are bad, but it’s insufficient without daily pulling exercises to make tendon regrow stronger

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 3 วันที่ผ่านมา

      I greatly respect Dave MacLeod's approach to reading and interpreting published research. I will take a look!

  • @ceculbe
    @ceculbe 4 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Super clear and to the point. Thank you!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 4 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ceculbe Appreciate it! 🙏 Hope you never have to use it 😂

  • @caliberto5087
    @caliberto5087 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Very interesting backpack. My daughter has been using it for 4 years, last month it was used as a float filled with empty bottles and a dry bag. We crossed the mouth of a river and then reached a lonely beach walking and swimming between shallows and little islands. Many companies have backpacks in their catalog for younger hikers, often it is money badly spent. With Deuter there are no bad surprises.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@caliberto5087 We've been very happy with ours. All the quality of a typical adult pack, similar features, etc. You are right: no quality deficiencies or gimmicky "kid stuff." Just a real pack in smaller size.

    • @caliberto5087
      @caliberto5087 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks It is not polite to name companies, but I could point out some major brands (European and American) that think that parents passionate about outdoor are nothing more than stupid people to take money from. Greetings from Italy

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@caliberto5087 Buon giorno! I was just in Italy for the first time last month. We were doing some hiking with our boys. We had a lovely time. Yes, there are plenty of dumb parents and dumb consumers who will throw away our money, but that doesn't eliminate the culpability of companies who offer garbage products. Hopefully little things like this review will help those of us navigating a landscape of so many products make better choices, as there is always so much to learn!

  • @colebaumann9850
    @colebaumann9850 8 วันที่ผ่านมา

    just bought mine! excited.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 8 วันที่ผ่านมา

      Hope you like it as much as I like mine. Have fun out there!

  • @crispbacon696
    @crispbacon696 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I use a eye to eye prusic as well but for top rope solo, it’s a very similar technique to what arborist use called a Double or moving rope. I noticed you used a VT prusic for your manner of descending a already weighted rope and you were sticking a bunch when you were trying to release it. The VT isn’t very smooth or good in that manner. I would suggest checking out Knotouris channel on youtube. he has a ton of variations of prusic knots that work much better. I even changed mine up a VT to a Catalist hitch after trying multiples. You even find that certain ropes work better with certain knots

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@crispbacon696 thanks for the tip!

  • @marchd1997
    @marchd1997 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I have recently left my hand tied nylon prusick as bail gear. I was thinking of using the opportunity to get something rated in case I ever have to trust it in a rescue situation (like decending loaded rope, but mainly less critical situations such as transfering weight with a back up). Any recomendations without going overboard? My original thinking was to get a simple premade rated prusick (which I guess is nylon).

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@marchd1997 Beal makes a 5.5mm pre-sewn cord (so is in a loop) that is an Aramid core (strong) with a nylon sheath (not slippery, so good for friction). It's rated at 22kn. But, like anything static, make sure it's not taking fall factors like 1.5s or 2.0s. if you want to be able to take falls on it, Beal also makes an 8mm sewn loop that is dynamic. But that makes it bulky.

  • @philsmith2444
    @philsmith2444 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Great video. I have 2 2P tents, a single-wall Marmot Hammer and a double-wall TNF Mountain 25. I rarely use the TNF because I’m always solo and the Marmot is about 1/3 the weight of the TNF if I leave the vestibule & footprint at home. Condensation can be somewhat mitigated by opening both vents and leaving the door unzipped at the top, but as you said the tradeoff is a colder tent inside, you have to wear more gear and aren’t quite as comfortable. But I can deal with that, I generally don’t do anything but sleep in the tent so the gear comes off and I get in the bag. Though I’m camping at lower elevations (<4K) here in NW Maine so big howlers don’t pop up and keep me tent-bound for days. But the biggest problem related to condensation with the Hammer is the size. With an 84” long floor, even a 6’ winter bag will be pressed against the walls at both ends due to the loft. I’ve been in mine at -15F, using my Feathered Friends -25F bag, and every time I moved during the night a snowstorm cascaded down on me. The shell fabric is waterproof Pertex so it didn’t affect the bag, but having it fall on my face woke me up. I was almost uncomfortably warm in the bag so tightening down the face opening or covering up with a buff or something wasn’t a solution. People I’ve known with mountaineering experience would have said you put your pack under the pad and sleep with your feet elevated to help with swelling, that would probably work but it shouldn’t be necessary. Neither should bringing the vestibule and putting my pad through the open tent door to keep both ends away from the walls. Most 2P mountaineering tents I’ve seen range from 82-88” in floor length (subtract 4-6” at the spot on the walls where the bag touches), maybe they need to increase that to 96” to allow for bags with 10” plus of loft at each end. That alone would make a 6’ bag at least 92” long. It might be worth it to try carrying the TNF, even if the usable area isn’t any bigger the condensation should be much less. Anyway, I know I went off on a bit of a tangent there LOL. How do you like that EB Katabatic? I’ve been interested in it for a while, I don’t *need* it but then again I don’t need the 10 pairs of snowshoes in my gear room, either LOL

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@philsmith2444 I do tend to put something (a pack, clothes, the rope, etc.) at each end of my sleep system. Not under the pad, but between the head and foot of my bag and the tent walls. It theoretically could decrease loft, but I haven't found that to be an issue. I like the Katabatic a lot for what it is good at. It is heavy, but bomb-proof (six poles). It is also very liveable: lots of storage pockets, and it lets so much light through that I can charge my battery bank with a solar panel that is inside the tent. It's kind of crazy. So, I like for deep winter missions where I'm already pulling a sled or something. Nothing "fast and light."

    • @philsmith2444
      @philsmith2444 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks Thanks. I am thinking of getting a small sled so I have less weight on my snowshoes, but almost all I do in winter is off-trail snowshoeing in the mountains of NW Maine so the thick forest may make a sled impractical. It would be a lot easier on my wrecked knees, though!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@philsmith2444 Cross country ski trails and such would work, but yeah, that could be a thing if truly off trail.

  • @MatthewKasa
    @MatthewKasa 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Why don’t you do an experiment for us. See how many times you can reuse a container before it starts leaking or malfunctioning. Make a new video with the results.

  • @tysondunn5183
    @tysondunn5183 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

    What are some potential applications of this knot?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

      1) The time I actually used it: had a new climber out ice climbing. We had a handline put in to get to the bottom of the climb to help us go over low-angled ice. The new climber went up the handline fine, and we did our day of ice climbing. A buddy packed up all of our gear and headed down, first, as me and the new climber went over a few other things. But on the way down, when she got uncomfortable at the handline (going down rather than up), we didn't have materials to make a standard friction hitch. So, we just took the end of the handline and tied it into her harness, leaving a very long tail. We used the tale to add a Blake's Hitch to the rope, and she "prusiked" down. 2) The "it's all gone wrong" scenario: You are in a rescue environment and have used up your minimal amount of alpine gear to build an anchor, or setup a haul system, or whatever. But you need to be able to move up and down the line (this need to move happens a lot in crevasse rescues, for example). Now you can use the rope to attach yourself to the rescue line even if you are out of other soft goods.

  • @funkehfunkeh
    @funkehfunkeh 12 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Going to introduce my 3 year old niece to climbing this weekend... She's not very adventurous about physical activity but is excited to go with me, so I'll just try to make it a fun experience as much as I can. Want to leave her with a good impression!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 12 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@funkehfunkeh Cool. Have fun out there!

  • @muhammadherjuno5565
    @muhammadherjuno5565 14 วันที่ผ่านมา

    is this enough to hike lobuche?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 14 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@muhammadherjuno5565 No. Not even close to enough insulation. You will need a true double boot with a removable liner like the La Sportiva G2.

    • @muhammadherjuno5565
      @muhammadherjuno5565 13 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks okay, thanks for the answer

  • @user-ir6bo1mk1v
    @user-ir6bo1mk1v 15 วันที่ผ่านมา

    You mentioned an Alpine stark or somethin like that in regards to debris falling , what is that?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 14 วันที่ผ่านมา

      Alpine "start." On bigger peaks the colder temperatures over night help freeze seracs and even rocks in place. So, we often wake up in the middle of the night and start climbing hours before the sun comes up to maximize the time we spend with debris more frozen in place.

    • @user-ir6bo1mk1v
      @user-ir6bo1mk1v 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks I appreciate your reply . I've just gotten into rappelling and so this is all new to me and it's amazing.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@user-ir6bo1mk1v enjoy the process! We all are always learning.

  • @domotime19
    @domotime19 16 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Similar to being tied in on both ends, if both strands of rope get stuck below you it could come in handy. Especially possible on multi pitch climbs with multiple rappels.

  • @alanananf1244
    @alanananf1244 16 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Did you find they might have leaking issues on the bottom? The prism definitely need to update…. Don’t understand why they use such nylon for the top.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 16 วันที่ผ่านมา

      What kind of leaking? I haven't noticed anything, but I'm mostly using it in cold weather so food an water on being caried on my body.

  • @LiamWilsonisbeastly
    @LiamWilsonisbeastly 20 วันที่ผ่านมา

    There are a fair number of trail runners that work really well for scrambling -- none climb better than TX Guides, but IMHO the mutants and the nnormal kjerag/tomir all climb about as well as the TX4. The mutants are especially good once the lugs have worn down a lot

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@LiamWilsonisbeastly I like the grip of Inov8 shoes for low angled stuff without much edging.

  • @largeformatlandscape
    @largeformatlandscape 22 วันที่ผ่านมา

    TX Guide's --- absolutely love them (and megagrip is amazing in the wet - which in the Highlands of Scotland, means most days)

    • @largeformatlandscape
      @largeformatlandscape 22 วันที่ผ่านมา

      p.s. Even though I don't have narrow/low volume shoes, I sacrifice a little bit of comfort to wear the TX Guides

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 22 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@largeformatlandscape Yeah, I really appreciate the split rubber on the sole with the Megagrip in back and the Idrogrip in the front. Good abrasion resistance for the heel strikes on the approach and good climbing grip on the toe.

  • @obvNameLess
    @obvNameLess 23 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I like my BD mission LT's. they are comfortable enough to use for backpacking, and they work well enough for scrambling.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 23 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@obvNameLess I find most BD footwear and apparel too big for me (short guy with small heels), but I haven't tried that one.

  • @kristebery
    @kristebery 23 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Hi

  • @philippf4002
    @philippf4002 25 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Thanks for the great review. Just a follow up question regarding the use with crampons. Do you find that the attachment on the rounded heel is problematic or do they fit secure? And what kind of grivel crampons are you using? I have seen them with the popular petzl vasak and that just wasn't a snug and secure fit. Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany! :)

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 25 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@philippf4002 I didn't find the heel to be a problem, but the fit is a lot better with a flexible basket toe rather than a toe bar. I used the Grivel G-14s with a "semi-automatic" attachment style, and it held better than other crampons I tried. They are a bit heavier crampon, which is sad, but they have great anti-balling plates and can configure as either a double- or mono-front-point.

  • @RenatoUtsch
    @RenatoUtsch 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I carry N99 masks for bolting since rock dust is very hazardous for the lungs, and I've discovered that getting masks with respirators make them a lot more comfortable to use! These were not ok to use during the pandemic because they don't filter the air you breathe out, but for dust or smoke it's perfect.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@RenatoUtsch If the lungs don't work, not sure finger strength will end up mattering at all 😉

  • @MykhailoUlianchenko
    @MykhailoUlianchenko 28 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Top review, thank you!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@MykhailoUlianchenko Thank you 🙏 Hope it helped!

    • @MykhailoUlianchenko
      @MykhailoUlianchenko 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks it did, I ordered a pair of lasportiva today, thanks to this review!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@MykhailoUlianchenko Now I hope you like them 😉

  • @sfchaney
    @sfchaney หลายเดือนก่อน

    th-cam.com/video/pwRtlqCnhLk/w-d-xo.html thanks for the idea. I had to modify a bit.

  • @tysondunn5183
    @tysondunn5183 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I was on the mountain yesterday, wishing I had watched this video before I went out 😅. My friend was visiting town with nothing but her climbing shoes, which meant that we were climbing entirely off my rack. I ended up rapelling down first using a double munter and she followed with my ATC. If we had used a simul rappel, I could have used my Grigri while she used my ATC, each on a single strand. The group next to us did a simul rappel, and they each use their own Grigri. Summary: another benefit of simul rappels is that both parties do not need a double basket repelling device, and can each use their normal belay device Edit: spelling

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@tysondunn5183 I prefer tandem rappels if the climber's can keep off each other's feet (both climbers tied into the same device), as it is generally safer, but there is some trickery involved in doing that well, too. Appreciate you sharing your story! Glad it all worked out 💪

    • @tjb8841
      @tjb8841 หลายเดือนก่อน

      In your case, wouldn’t it have been easiest to block the rappel(with the pre-rigged atc, like shown at the end of the video), have the first climber rap on the grigri, then second climber comes right after?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@@tjb8841There is more and more mounting evidence that a counter balanced rappel only saves time on the last rappel. Having one go down and set up the next rappel while the second is following after, as per normal, is usually quicker.

  • @macmurfy2jka
    @macmurfy2jka หลายเดือนก่อน

    There is no better place for strength gains than the gym. It may not be the best to get experience and technique, but definitely strength.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@macmurfy2jka I agree. Good place to focus on gains with low consequences.

  • @Eric-kz9bk
    @Eric-kz9bk หลายเดือนก่อน

    Smart!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@Eric-kz9bk I am constantly flipping back and forth between different steps.

  • @forresthsu582
    @forresthsu582 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I didn't know that about the bartack! Super neat

  • @brettbroderick7540
    @brettbroderick7540 หลายเดือนก่อน

    It’s worth mentioning. That counterbalance rappels/ simul rappels don’t save that much time. The enormocast did a great break down years ago. When you pre rig both rappels the only difference in timing is actually doing the rappels which is maybe 2 minutes. Subtract the fact that rappelling one at a time you can go faster and that the first person can start setting up the next rappel your maybe gaining 1 minute per rappel but adding significant risk.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@brettbroderick7540 Very good point, and I tend to agree. I'm going to do a video next spring about alternatives, including tandem. To your point, it might only save time on the last rappel, and there are alternatives to even that. Thanks for chiming in! 🧠💪🙏

  • @dannymcgrath8197
    @dannymcgrath8197 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You’re channel rocks

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@dannymcgrath8197 appreciate that! 🙏

  • @geometerfpv2804
    @geometerfpv2804 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Veeeery relatable. The degree to which perfectionism can be debilitating is under-appreciated.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@geometerfpv2804 Glad (or not glad, I guess 😁) that it resonated.

  • @geometerfpv2804
    @geometerfpv2804 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I think audacity is really important. It is unfortunate that it seems more common in the under-prepared. The trick is to be audacious even after you know enough to know how little you know. Not easy.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@geometerfpv2804 That's a good point. I think you are talking about the difference between audacity, which really only exists if we are humble, and cocky. I think, to your point, it really is about belief in your ability to learn, not belief that you have nothing else to learn 😂

  • @timonix2
    @timonix2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    It looks like the foot loop is too far up. If the waist prussic fails and slide down. The foot prusic need to catch before the prussics meet. If the top loose one collides with the bottom one both fail almost every time.

  • @sugewhitejacoby8654
    @sugewhitejacoby8654 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I learned the hard way! Lol

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@sugewhitejacoby8654 😁😂🙏

  • @anonevolve
    @anonevolve หลายเดือนก่อน

    Was this filmed on royal flush?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Yeah, the Royal Rocklett Arete variation.

    • @anonevolve
      @anonevolve หลายเดือนก่อน

      @ShortGuysBetaWorks that's awesome. I'm thinking about taking my 6 year old up it this weekend, then I looked up this video and it's filmed there hahaha. She's too young to belay me so I plan on lead rope soloing each pitch then rapping down and climbing the pitch again with her and cleaning myself. Probably only doing the pitches leading up to the hiking section, so about half of it.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@anonevolve yeah, I could see how that would take awhile and make the mid-point a great target. I had a friend that was way too kind and led it both times, different weekends for each kid, so that I could climb with them and help them out. Have fun up there!

  • @Comiskey2
    @Comiskey2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Went off route when rapping yesterday. Long story short had to cut our ropes, leave a ton of gear, and bivvy the night. We tried ascending the stuck rope, but the edge was sharp and the rope was cutting as we were ascending. Tried to lead us to get back on route but the rock around us was rotten...glad we made it out.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Scary! Stuck ropes are the scariest freakin' thing. Glad you kept your head and worked through the problems to make it off. 🧠💪 Thanks for sharing! 🙏

  • @Scoopster
    @Scoopster หลายเดือนก่อน

    Lashing the poles is a cinch really no hassle just learn how to use the straps….

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Sure, it's not hard, just more work than using the available carbon fiber pole (if you want one). More weight and higher price versus convenience (a little) at setup and (a lot) if you want to leave the tent up while hiking around w/ your trekking poles (which we do a lot, leaving it as a basecamp).

  • @napolihuhn
    @napolihuhn หลายเดือนก่อน

    amazing stuff <3

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Appreciate it! Thanks for the support. 🙏

  • @izatt82
    @izatt82 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Best ways to train vertical for the flat landers?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      In my order of preference: 1) hill repeats (either running up small hills with many reps, or weighted pack up bigger hills with fewer reps): 2) repeat flights of stairs (same as above); 3) stair master; 4) box step ups.

  • @roses4923
    @roses4923 หลายเดือนก่อน

    What kind of carabiners are those?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@roses4923 at the bolts are Black Diamond Vapor screw gates and the two at the master point are Petzl William screw gates. Both are older versions in the video than you can find, now.

    • @danielhlw
      @danielhlw 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorkswill triact-locks of the William work as well?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@danielhlw yes they would

  • @JMATTY33
    @JMATTY33 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Lol is that Darwin?

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@JMATTY33 It is. Have been providing some mountaineering mentorship. He's a good guy.

    • @JMATTY33
      @JMATTY33 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@ShortGuysBetaWorks you’re a great person to be learning from! Love your videos. Keep up the great work!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@JMATTY33 Appreciate that! 🙏

  • @forresthsu582
    @forresthsu582 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Im really interested what the arborists think. I've only really seen this used by them, and I would love to hear what their safety consideration are with these sorts of systems

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@forresthsu582 I agree. Arborists use this a lot, and they must have some contextual assessments of when it is okay versus too risky. In a climbing environment, though, I am thinking about things like rock fall, sharp rock edges, and such.

    • @mcjiffyatx9621
      @mcjiffyatx9621 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I can’t think of a situation where I wouldn’t rather step up off a sling, but I purely practice ascending in case I rapp past the next belay station. The only reason I’d do this is if I was short a locker or sling on my harness. But I’m also not an expert!

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@mcjiffyatx9621 I'm with you. I don't like the safety margin or the level of effort. But some arborists can fly up using this.

  • @aerialrescuesolutions3277
    @aerialrescuesolutions3277 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great video, well explained and shown. You have a great style of teaching. I don't do any rock climbing, I Am an arborist, and have been using ropes in many situations for years. I also do rope access work,(rope rope ropes) Keep making videos. Thank you, Jim from Oregon.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@aerialrescuesolutions3277 appreciate the support! 🙏 Nice compliment from someone who moves up and down ropes for a living 💪

  • @hotharvey2
    @hotharvey2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    pretty good, thanks for this

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@hotharvey2 hope you never need it 😉

  • @pradipkumarpankaj933
    @pradipkumarpankaj933 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Sir please let me know about this sleeping bag axect location, & axect price in indian Rupees.

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Which sleeping bag? There about ten different ones in the video. Can you give a time stamp and color of the one you are interested in? As far as price, I can only give you the price at this time, as currency exchange rates fluctuate.

  • @vankongs6205
    @vankongs6205 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I love that someone else is thinking about this. My daughter is starting to lead, and she struggles with single hand clipping. This is exactly the calculus I’m going through. She clips in the larger wall side clip without a problem, but sometime struggles with rope/hand/draw positioning to be able to clip the rope in. Have you also looked at alternative or best clipping techniques for kids/small hands for one handed clipping??

    • @ShortGuysBetaWorks
      @ShortGuysBetaWorks หลายเดือนก่อน

      Very cool! Nice to hear of a young crusher on her way up! We're starting a whole series of shorts (no full length videos) just on quick draw considerations (length, gate types, nose types, etc.) Obviously, clipping method comes into play in all of that. I believe that short is scheduled to drop on the 5th of September. Until that video comes out, the quick answer is that the palm-out claw and palm-in claw methods seem to work best for my boys.

  • @sebamobile9689
    @sebamobile9689 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I'm starting at the middle of the rope when coiling in a hurry, so I don't have to manage the middle at the end. As soon as one hand is completely down when coiling I let go of the loops with the other hand to trace the rope behind my neck. You get the same size of coils without struggling grabbing all the loops when you coil more than 40m(≈120ft).