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@@ukaszwilk8588 e-mail: alien90fr@onet.pl

@@HobbyElektronika tak i izopropanol 👍

@@TheXAlienxSądzę że to zły wybór ale czas pokaże ja juz tego nie używam korodują po tym kwestia czasu ,przy czyszczeniu super potem już niebardzo.Ale może masz szczęście i się uda jednak sądzę że wróci do poprawki.

@HobbyElektronika od 3 lat nie wrócił więc jest dobrze 👍teraz też jedynie przy mocnych zabrudzeniach tego używam a tak to valvoline contact cleaner

@@TheXAlienx Słuszna decyzja na mnie się kilka razy zemścił teraz nim śrubki czyszczę :) Pozdrawiam

Może wstępnie e-mail 🙂 alien90fr@onet.pl

In your case, the speaker relay should be replaced, or it may be the fault of the volume potentiometer. But start with the relay. The glue under the capacitors must be removed and the corroded elements replaced.

@@TheXAlienx that is very interesting, because once I was playing music and it was cutting in and out and I could hear the relay “click”, but I think that was when the music was really loud. Also i unscrewed the potentiometer and when I touch one part of it, it makes a humming sound out of the left speaker and when I touch the other side of the potentiometer it makes a humming sound out of the right speaker. Could it have a short to power? There were white lines of corrosion on the pcb. What is that liquid you soaked the potentiometer in?

@@dnbstreamer this is rather a normal symptom of the potentiometer. I used isopropanol for cleaning

@@TheXAlienx ok thanks for the quick reply I will try to replace the relay and clean the potentiometer

Hello, when it comes to this model, only what I showed in the video. There are also videos of other amplifier models on the channel

@@TheXAlienx firstly, thank you for responding! I own a Pioneer A80, which is functional, but I want to do a full recap on it (there are several capacitors on the edge to pop it at any time). I'm planning to go board by board, and this kind of disassembly (viewed in your video) worries me a little bit (after each board recap, to put all the amp back together, test, disassemble again and repeat for another board). Also, I noticed the "winding around the pin" wiring connections in this amp. Can you point me to one of your videos where you recorded how you proceed on them, in order to disconnect / connect them? Thanks!

It is best to desolder these connections together with the pin and then re-solder them, it is much easier and the wires will be wrapped in their original way on the pins.@@georgeion6919

@@TheXAlienx thanks, I was thinking for the same approach, but I feared to not harm the PCB, considering its age. I noticed you replaced some pins, but they looked like already exfoliated; You encountered exfoliation problems caused by desoldering?

I haven't encountered any problems, the PCB seems ok@@georgeion6919

Z tego co się dowiedziałem od właściciela dźwięk stał się bardziej szczegółowy i nasycony.

Witam nie sprawdzałem mam jeszcze kilka w zapasie to je zmierzę, chociaż należy pamiętać że kondensatory mają zazwyczaj tolerancję +-20% elna silmic to kondensatory chyba wyższej klasy niż nichicon FW a nawet FG więc tam pojemność będzie mniej rozjechana.

Wiem, że 20% i taką zakładam, ale przy nowych kondensatorach, mimo formowania, nie do przyjęcia.@@TheXAlienx

Hello, at the beginning I would check if there is a constant voltage on the speaker outputs. The amplifier protection prevents the loudspeakers from being switched on. If there is constant voltage at the outputs, you have a problem with the power amplifier. But as you wrote, sometimes it works normally, so the problem may be with damaged solders in my amplifier, there were a lot of them. then check the value of the quiescent current of about 22mV. Also pay attention to the fuse resistors in the diagram marked with a triangle, they can change their value significantly. If you have any questions, write to me :)

@@TheXAlienx Thanks so much for your quick reply!! I found the "cold" or damaged welds under the large electrolytic capacitors (power supply). I want to disassemble all the big heatsink with connected final transistors, I want to check "OHM" and Capacitance because you did it too. Through the trimmer "VR1" (of print board amp. left) and "VR1" (of print board amp. right) I recalibrated the 22mV with the multimeter through "TP1-TP2" left and "TP1-TP2" right with loudspeakers connected. You write this: "" Also pay attention to the fuse resistors in the diagram marked with a triangle, they can change their value significantly."" Which components of which board? Can you give me the abbreviations or where to look on the wiring diagram? Thank you and sorry if I "distress you" 😊

@@carlocastelli7511The resistors are on two plates screwed to the heat sink, you can see them in the video (4:30) and on the power amp ass diagram, there is a triangle with an exclamation mark next to these resistors. Check their resistance preferably all on these pcb because it may differ from what is shown in the diagram. Also check for damaged solders on these boards

Witam jeśli jest Pan nadal zainteresowany proszę napisać do mnie na email: alien90fr@onet.pl

Witam czasem jak mam czas i nie ma nic do roboty to cos tam wezmę :)

nic specjalnego ale dziękuje:)

Nie zepsuć a poprawić. Te przewody nawet miedziane nie były a do tego bardzo mały przekrój

@@TheXAlienx takie miały być. Gregaudio zęby zjadł na tych Grundigach, przerobił wszystkie opcje. Kable za milion złoty nie zagrają na nich tak dobrze jak te cienkie orginalne.

Dokładnie chciałem to samo zaznaczyć. Przewody grundiga to jedne z najlepszych przewodów mało z tego nie znalazły się tam przypadkowo.

Tak, tylko te "oryginalne" jakoś dziwnym trafem są mocno skorodowane. I zauważyłem to w kilu modelach kolumn Grundiga, a robiłem kilka ! Nawet z użyciem kwasu nie dają się pocynować !! Wszystkie do wymiany i to najlepiej min. 1 mm2.

Witam ma Pan rację nawet nie wie za co się zabrał i to pseudo ulepszenie oryginały graja więcej niż zacnie pozdrawiam.

Hello. I replaced the capacitors in my speakers with mkp janzen cross cap and added a lot of damping, the sound has improved

jak coś mogę na email wysłać

@@TheXAlienx Ok.! Dzięki, chętnie skorzystam. Muszę zamówić kondensatory.

​@@TheXAlienxwitam jakie kondensatory Pan użył?można schemat na maila?

VC5022

Music: Wes Bound (Album Version) Lee Ritenour

Hello, do you have the in out adapter output connected? on the back of the amplifier because then you have disconnected the tone controls and the amplifier works only in direct mode

@@TheXAlienx Thank you for your reply. I was not quite sure what you was talking about but I googled photos and like you say, there are metal connectors that bridge the adaptor sockets together. I looked at my amplifier and it does not have these. So hopefully this is the problem? I have never come across this before with other amps. Can you use any cable of wire to connect them? Thank you.

@@ChillToMusic87 Yes, you can use a piece of wire by sticking it inside. This should solve your problem

@@TheXAlienx I shall give it a try, thank you.

Update. I did what you suggested and it has solved the problem 👌🏼I would never have thought that it would be something as simple as that. I'm glad that it was as i've had the amp apart looking for internal faults. I'm a happy man now, thank you very much 👍🏼

At 8 ohms, the amplifier has a power of 100W. 4ohm is half less than 8, i.e. half of 100 is 50 watts 100 + 50 = 150 watts at 4 ohms :) but knowing pioneer, the power given in the manual is understated.

They were in good condition, so I left them

os que estão no amplificador já não são os de origem ,e onde diz que altera a equalização do som se meteres uns condensadores iguais com as mesmas propiedades mas de outra marca e também chamaste-lhes power capacitors, o amplificador tem dezenas de condensadores já NOS VIDEOS VHS O CONDENSADOR servia para manter as configurações como a hora certa mesmo quando desligados ou os programas de gravação ou ficavam com melhor imagem se fossem novos?

Tak wiem że kiepsko to słychać na przyszłość postaram się o porządny mikrofon :) kolumny przeszły mały tuning więc grają jeszcze lepiej:)

@@TheXAlienx No a ta zwrotnica to jakaś dobrą dali czy jak japończyki gówno jakieś

@@MikeleKonstantyFiedorowiczIV Zwrotnica całkiem spoko kondensatory Nichicon jak je mierzyłem to w bardzo dobrej kondycji, przewody też całkiem grube tak że nie jest źle

Hello, thank you for the kind words. Is the left channel also not working when line streight is on?

@@TheXAlienx Hello and thank you for your quick reply. Yes, the left channel does not work when the Line Straight button is switched on, neither with the headphone input. When switching to the speakers outputS A, B and A+B, it always cracks very loudly from the left speaker.

I have already cleaned the speaker relay, so the contacts. I also disassembled and cleaned the speaker selector switch at the rear. Maybe an elko defective?

@@pascalg7521 Check with the n meter in the loudspeaker output in the left channel to see if there is any voltage

@@TheXAlienx so I measure on the left speaker outputs, so the connection terminals at the back, on the left side where the defect is a value of about 5V. On the right side where everything is fine, there is no current to measure, since the device shows 0.

Yes

Thanks for the reply . I bought an identical one from Romania and I was wondering if the transistor end is identical or not to you. maybe in the future I will have to take him to the doctor to check how you did to yours ... everything needs to be cleaned and checked. I appreciate your work and I follow you