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What for? After the boat locks into the ramp n clamp I get off the boat from the bow, hook up the safety chain and exit the ramp.

Something I got off Amazon for around $20 check for a cup holder that connects to a ram mount. A larger one is available for about $30.

Yes

@@ronnietv8692 I saw you said that at the end. Lol

Both Waverunners are ho models.

Anything you don’t like about your gp ho??

@@everyonelovesfriday2045 I sometimes wish I would have bought the SVHO but more often wish I would have gotten another FX instead. The description ls are accurate. If you want a fast and responsive ski the get an 1800. If you want a comfortable drier ride get the FX.

I'm in the same boat right now. Trying to decide between GP HO or the FX Cruiser HO.. I see your GP got to 65, what does the FX top out at?

@@mikekappatos2719 The FX tops out at 59 mph. If you want performance go with the GP, if you want a more comfortable/ drier ride get the FX.

How did you get yours to 72 that’s crazy

@@noahtoombs9351 prob removed the limiter.

I got the fuller cap and extra grab bars at yamaha sports plaza.com out of Seattle. Misc hardware came from west marine and Home Depot. Everything else on line at Amazon or McMaster Carr.

I had a friend make an extension and boot for the oem Bimini Top (which is grey in color) that my local marine upholsterer used as a template to create the black components in the video. My total cost out the door was about $1,500 or $500 per component here in Northern California and using the highest grade sunbrella material. You should be able to get it done for less if you build off of your oem Bimini top. If yours is grey the sunbrella equivalent is cadet grey.

I don’t recall seeing any smoke at all on starting the engines the following spring but suspect they did smoke a little . I do not got fog anymore, just add marine stabil before the last use of the season to get it in the lines and engines

Gold

John Donaldson My rationale for putting lines and fenders on both sides when boating alone is that it allows me to take either side

Michael Coyner I initially used pipe insulation that was cut down the side and had adhesive preinstalled on one of the edges, so it was just peel and stick. Cheap too, like $3 per 6 foot section and my local hardware store, Home Depot. If you go this route don't use the thickest material you can find go one size lower to avoid putting too much pressure on the hatch hinge. Also keep in mind this stuff is hard to remove if you have to so take your time on the install. I eventually replaced mine with some better fitting and better looking flat foam with an adhesive backing that I purchased from McMaster Carr.

Ronnie-going to start this project this week. which flat foam did you get from McMaster for the edges? do you think its better than pipe insulation b/c I'm assuming its more expensive...thx bro.

Michael for the engine compartment hatch seal I started with insulated foam used to cover pipes which had been presplit and had glue on the split edges, i replaced that with 3/4" bulb seal with a self adhesive backing from McMaster Carr . I think I paid less than $10 for 20' of it but only needed 19' . All told I have two layers in the compartment, the first is 2" thick with a foil top to resist heat, also had a self adhesive back. I added 1" of eggcrate material over the first layer and used spray on glue (3m 90) to secure that in place.

Ronnie...I'll order the bulb seal from McMaster...I bought some acoustiblok for the engine hatch. Do you think I should double it up w/ another layer of eggcrate material in your opinion? Although I'm dont plan on doing the entire engine compartment like you (very impressive) have you found that your work has made a significant improvement in noise reduction? My concern is that just doing the engine hatch and the seal around it will not do all that much but I really dont want to do the whole thing like you did!!

Hi Ronnie...promise to stop harassing you after this...i looked for 3/4" flat bulb seal w/ self adhesive backing on McMaster Carr but could not locate it, do you by chance have the product number or can share the link you used to order it? Cheers. Mike p.s. i dont plan on putting 2nd layer of eggcrate for now. maybe after the season is over I'll reconsider...

No, I didn't replace the wear ring, in Yamaha jet boats it is not a separate sacrificial plastic part. It's hardened steel and it's expensive. If the enclosure is that worn the alternative to replacing it is to supplement it with an after market plastic or stainless steel insert but an I,pllers should wear out long before the oem enclosure.

OK thanks. At your recommendation I did join the jet boat forum. Lots of info wealth. Thanks for the heads up

I had them pitched for better acceleration at sea level, if I list any top end speed I didn't notice it.

Pitch theory and practice are too much to tackle here. Consider joining jetboaters.net and searching the terms, solas impellers, custom impellers, etc. there is a member there that did extensive testing on his 192 who recommends staying stock but adding a lucky 13 cone instead to improve performance.

The fins themselves are on a spring so they can be set to move up and out of the water when going over no wake speeds but always do so if they come in contact with the bottom. The fangs are stationary but shorter than the fins. Both are very strong so I wouldn't be concerned about damaging them by hitting bottom or something in the water.

Concord YS CD 13/19, custom pitched by Impros in Colton, CA. I installed the Solas but had a pwc shop remove the stock units because they were on their shafts very tight.