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Mr. Max, very nice delivery and great content. I subscribed. I appreciate the detail and ideas on how to make the CS2511 even better. Thank you. 🙂

mod everything including your can opener

The saw is not a 600D but an EZ Original Model as the mine, produced from 1956 to 1957. You can see the difference compared to other similar models thanks to a particular, this saw have the "claw" inside and the bar outside the subsequent ones have the "claw" outside and the bar inside. Take care of your saw, is very very rare, like the mine.

A square grind gives you LESS material behind the leading edge, hence why it cuts better and is sharper, and why it blunts faster. More material behind an edge isn't sharper, I guess you misspelled. Happens.

Enjoyed your video. I have a 600D my neighbor gave me about 40 years ago. The date on the owners manual is 1961, same year I was born. We had a big maple log to cut up a few years back and I found a 36" bar and chain on eBay. It pulls it just fine.

Nice I’m ordering one tomorrow

I'm a stihl guy, but I have several old chainsaws, and one of them is a 600D I have a 07 Stihl 08 S10 and so on. I also have a couple of old pioneers. They're made in Canada A.... That 600D has approximately 6 and 3/4 horsepower. It almost has the same power as a modern MS 661. Maybe it is a little heavy but it is a BMF I would love to see you run that with a modern bar and chain and see how it does. Cool saw good video..

If i had to guess, the chain sharpening was the single biggest difference. And even with that, the cuts on the bigger log went from 6 seconds stock to 5 seconds with the muff mod, carb tune, and chain sharpen.

I HAD to pull limiters on my 3510. Break in power increase was dramatic once the rings fully seated. Mine tended to get richer as time went on (assume more crankcase vaccum) Dialed it back to appropriate after 10 or 12 tanks, went to a stihl yellow chain, and it runs like a scalded dog for a 35cc saw. Echo does the power/weight ratio thing very well. Plasticky saw but its worth it for a brusher/trail saw/atv saw.

Hi. I enjoyed the video. I'm a little unclear on some of this. I drill a hole into the baffle that is already there and I drill kinda diagonally upwards? Also for the tuning, you didn't show how to do this in this video. What did you do? You pulled out the two plugs? Then what do you do? Thanks I'm really new to all this. I really like my 2511 but it's bogging down far too easily.

Hey Max, I came across your video and really appreciate the content. Your before and after of the echoes change in power is probably the best I’ve seen yet. As an arborist I picked up a 2511 about four months ago when my 201 went down and had to go in for repairs. I’ve been wanting to get one for a while and always planned on modifying the muffler like everyone does. I went to get it returned and the first place it wouldn’t stay running, the other place tuned it and now it will stay running but if I shut it down and go to restart it no amount of pulls will get the Saw restarted until I opened up the throttle wide and then it starts on the first pull. Obviously this is a dangerous starting technique on a one-handed saw up in a tree. Do you have any ideas? I have taken the limiters off and could do some minor adjustments but have no idea whether Its starving itself out, Or getting too rich a mix. Open to any suggestions at this point

I run the 2511 as well on of the best upgrades in my opinion if a panther bar and switch to 1/4 pitch with low profile chain. Monkey beaver sells the kits 👌

I think your analyses are totally on-point, but you don't seem to draw as-strong a conclusion that this simply isn't an appropriate "comparison test", I mean it's not "different sports" but still apples-to-oranges...I was blown-away when, last week, I plotted the HP/lbs "power-weight ratio" for my saws (and the 044, 440 and 441 for comparison to my 6** series chinesium clones, one's low-90cc's the other's >100cc's maybe 103-105cc after big bore and all the piston, lower transfer and crankcase porting) and, from 25cc to 36cc to 60cc to 90cc, you get more HP/lbs of powerhead the higher the displacement, I'm unsure where standard 2-strokes in the chainsaw-configuration "top out" for 1-cylinder displacement but it's certainly well over 100cc / cylinder because the "power per CC" curve is nice and linear from 25cc to 90cc+ for my saws (and the 44* series as well), this is all to say that I've begun to look at "comparisons" as being something wherein I want what is job-appropriate, I don't see any practical way to compare my 2511t to my 355t to my 590 to my 660's (rear-handles are all ported / quasi-hot) because they're really all designed/setup, IMO, for bar-length & usage, for instance I care more about how the 590 performs with a 20" in big-wood, bucking, compared to my 2511 using a 12" buried limbing (or my 355t with an 18", buried fully while limbing/trunking a tree) This makes "direct comparisons" nearly impossible & worthless because it becomes "well let's give them different bars which'll further skew results OR let's match bars and skew results the other way", they are truly apples-to-oranges IMO, but if anything I'd wanna see how the 355t performs with 16" or 18", versus a 2511t with 12" or 14" (also the "loss to bar-length", if it's not buried-bar length, becomes far less significant the bigger the total displacement) Great vids am so stoked to have found your channel, am on-break from porting some chinese $30 big bore 56mm 660 setup, I JB'd the intake nearly 50%upwards LOL to accommodate the 80thou shorter skirts they use on these 56mm pistons, so people don't have to port crankcases for fitment (I'd bought it thinking that was requisite LOL) but hey IMO the crankcase//jug transferring of charge is an abomination on 440/660 setups and benefits from ALL mods especially lower transfer//crankcase matching//piston-window portings!!)

"Dramastic", I love it am totally adding that to my vocabulary! "starts easily now" I'd LOVE any elaboration on this, I'm "an echo guy" and a big part of that is that they've always been zero-fuss startups for me, my polesaw / 355t / 590 have never ever been problematic w/ startup, but the 2511t I just got -- not even tuned yet, or muff altered yet -- it is weird/anomalous insofar as needing >1 pull for choked-turnover, and oftentimes >1 pull from there for true startup (fast-idle speed startup of course) This is *not* the case w/ the 355t/590/ppt266...I've gotta fathom this is tune&muffler but can't really tell (guess it's hard to tell much of anything b4 break-in is done, mine's on tank 3 still idling and mini-cuts only, echo's exhibit a TON of break-in gains and the 2511t muffler-mod-responsiveness seems nearly identical to that of the 355t (IE choked to open-can basically, sadly looks like little room for any real scavenging am hoping there is will see I'll have mine off to work on it today) Gonna need to check your library because that 440/660 w/ "pipe muffler" is totally one of my biggest interests right now (for my pair of chinesium 660's, maybe even the cs590 I mean if&when I can find a way to simply blueprint my pipes & go see a welder, I can't see any reason not to do every one of my groundsaws...is it true the noise-level of these "l-pipe" or 'bearclaw' pipe mufflers is not anomalous **compared-to** a modded OEM can? IE both are basically offering minimal muffling, but *some* muffling! This video was great, +1'd and subscribed, had to watch through nearly half-dozen 2511t videos to get "an idea" of what to expect when I go to remove & configure the muffler on mine, am hoping you have more 2511t vids it's always nice when you get something like a 660 and realize @Scott Kunz 's whole porting series uses it as-example, or to big-bore said 660's and get to watch Iron Horse's efforts & final triumph w/ them....hoping you have more 2511t content & definitely gonna go see what 44*/66* content you've got, thanks a ton!!

Where did you find a square file ?

Good stuff man. I've subscribed

such a thin tree is for a stand and cut several at a time this saw, then you rest longer and you tire less

Cherish the times that you can work on fun projects with your Dad. Time goes by way too fast.

Is that a 14 or 16 inch bar and chain?

You talk alot. 90 percent of your video is wasted talking with no information

Any clue where parts can be found? Mine has a broken internal gear I need to replace. Great video!

Hi Max, I just purchased a 2511t and have used it the past two days for limbing. Over 5 inches I have grabbed my 201t as the little echo doesn't have the nut. After watching your video on the muffler mod and tuning it I have hope. It is so much lighter and nicer to use. Thanks for making these videos. I am still unsure about the stops on the carb adjustment but maybe it will be self explanatory once I pull the carb off.

Awesome video

Thanks dude. Considering this saw, appreciate you showcasing it and walking through the process of playing with it. I use saws every day but don't know much about them. Thanks for sharing your experience.

great video, I too have forgotten about semi chisel : ) 99% of the time I'm running full chisel, full comp, round file (mostly Oregon). Been looking at square ground, but just haven't made the leap. I know once I do, I'll be kicking myself for not doing it sooner. I've never heard someone with a square grind say, nah round filing is better!

Fantastic video! I have a 355T and you basically described my exact issue with breaking in, running rich, blocking the exhaust screen and stalling.

I would like too see I have the same saw

I run these daily. When the chain is right and not too grabby it’s awesome. I’ll keep using it probably too long. All limbs gone and chunking a log down at 10-12”. In a track lift most often so once to that point very easy to just come down and swap to a 201 with a 16”, or echo 620 if there’s a lot to do. We use the 620 because we put a full wrap handle on it so it hangs on the basket really nice. We throw the smaller saws into a mounted bar holder.

Nice old saw, it was built at a time when robustness and durability were more important than highspeed...

Good job. Saw sounds great . What size hole did you drill on the baffle ? And whats ur tunning set at ?

Just take 2 drywall screws and back out the carb blockers .remove them?

They just don't make them like they used to anymore

Alright so your new clip told me to come to this clip and now you have suckered me in. Let's see what that old saw can do with a new chain.

Looks like you had fun with that one. The birch water was a nice touch lol

Nice!

Drinking birch water

Best one so far

I know Max. He doesn't do ANYTHING half-heartedly. Felling trees and planning tricky cuts doesn't have to be intimidating. Max does an admirable job making these tasks approachable and enjoyable for anyone.

Those are so cool! I'd never seen one before but can totally get their value in the field.

This makes me want a monster pro saw even more