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@@Weasel_NM575 yes, when it’s solid copper. However, copper clad aluminum is upsized as its core is aluminum. Therefore, the sizing is the same as aluminum - 10awg for 20 amp, 12awg for 15 amp, etc. www.copperweld.com/products/building-wire/products/nm-b#identification

Well, the response to this question is gonna vary wildly depending on who you talk to. The way I look at it, it is approved for use in the national electrical code (NEC). There’s no denying that its resurgence is also likely heavily time to cheaper costs, which doesn’t always necessarily equate to improved safety. At the end of the day though for it to be approved by the NEC, it likely had to undergo numerous tests and UL certification. The video was more to inform home inspectors who may not be aware of this yet, that this wiring is out there and to look closely so that they do not erroneously mark the conductors within the home as copper if they are in fact copper clad aluminum

it means, make sure you have really good house fire coverage on your home owners insurance.

Time will tell. Aluminum wires are no longer allowed for use in smaller sizes because in time they will break down and cause fires. I'm a residential electrician and am always dealing with poor souls who live with aluminum wires, it's a real problem that is never easy to deal with. For my ¢2, copper works well and has worked well for a long time, if what he's saying here is accurate I personally feel very nervous about it.

It's garbage, copper is the only way to go!!

When they tried it in the late sixties it would get brittle and cause fires

Also can't find #10 nm copper-clad, that's yellow, anywhere online. Looks like #12 Romex

I know, it was a surprise to me too that it was having a resurgence but it is definitely copper clad aluminum. In addition to the indicators I discussed in the video (larger gauge wire, thicker sheathing, etc.), when you look in the attic, you can actually see “copper clad AL” stamped on the sheathing.

@@heymclovin3174 you can actually see it here for yourself. www.copperweld.com/products/building-wire/products/nm-b#identification

​@@GuidedInspections you did not look in the attic tho ...not in the video, where we can assess more properly what you are claiming .... I agree with the statement above how can we be sure its not simply discoloration from the cutter.... 🤔 Show and tell, tell us everything show us nothing

The steel coloring coming off on the copper? Steel is significantly harder than copper, I don't consider myself an expert, but I've cut tons of wire and the steel of my cutters has never rubbed off into the copper.

@@danielkelley7422 no, this was simply the interior subpanel. There was a 200 amp main panel with all the 240 V circuits and surge protector outside

@@Jabberwoccy 😂 no doubt! An unfortunate byproduct of trying to create the movie on my phone initially and then uploading. Formatting got screwed. My options were to 1) redo it again or 2) just simply upload it after my efforts. Clearly, I chose the latter, with the unfortunate byproduct of being all up in yo face!😳😅

Updated building code. It is fairly new

Correct, this code was certainly not required when this house was built. However, our standards of practice here in Texas state that we have to report as deficient: “(D) the absence of fall protection at windows that are located less than 24 inches from the finished floor and greater than 72 inches from the finished grade.” So, as per our rules, we have to write this up regardless of age. But, will the seller be compelled to make these corrections - absolutely not - we just want to make sure the buyer knows of the potential concern. 😉

That certainly would be more ideal. A lot of times when they’re using this type of lightweight framing, the drywaller‘s will utilize lightweight metal brackets at location such as this in order to provide backing or support for the edges of the drywall. I personally prefer the framing as it adds more rigidity to the structure, but if it’s an approved product, they’re certainly allowed to use it. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I have some of these and I absolutely hate them. Can’t run my printer with the lights on…. Have to plug my office computer into an extension cord that runs to another outlet in a different room. These things are not worth it.

If it’s a problem with the breaker itsself no

Did you do that job??

@factfinderinspections1366 that’s what you always say to Dave and the guys!!😂

Absolutely! And thanks for the recent subscribe - we try to put out content for perspective homebuyers and home inspectors alike. Let us know if there’s anything you’d like us to touch on or cover.

Thanks for watching!

Classic tune!

🤣🎶

If what you're describing is the exhaust duct connected to your bathroom exhaust fan and terminating into the attic rather than to the exterior, that is not a correct installation of that duct. While it is not correct, it's not very likely to have a significant negative impact within the home. However, there are many other factors that need to be considered to determine how serious it could be. If you have the means or ability to correct this, even if it means routing that duct up to the nearest attic exhaust fan, it would always be helpful.

😅

You know, you’d be surprised how common this actually is still, these days. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that the different trades/contractors definitely don’t communicate a lot with each other to avoid mishaps like this. I guess that’s where it comes down to the builder to kind of manage all of these guys in the project as a whole. But, to be fair, you also have instances where things are done over the years that conflict with things that were done years prior. Either way, certainly lends itself to employment stability for folks like us!