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Most likely you simply have a dead module. The module in my video drives the LEDs and not the halogen headlight. So, the HID ballast probably isn't involved. My guess is it's the module itself that's cooked.

@@vinfogarage1546 thanks for the response mate. So i had a brainwave moment and decided to just double check again. after a year of driving with no angel DRLs on the driviers side - i put my hand in and the wire connection for the module is dislodged! it just came out on my hand. I still have to take apart the bumper and unscrew just to get the wire connection in so im gonna give it a try this weekend before buying any parts. Just seems like a loose wire connection!

I traded the car in for a 435 about a year after this. But I washed it like 40x a day and never saw any moisture. I was careful to seal it well.

That doesn't work on these X3s and e90s. I've seen that work on X5s though. They basically sacrificed the feature for the sake of syncing the two temperatures. Kinda lame. But this coding reactivates the feature.

@@vinfogarage1546 hm ok it should work on all the e90 lci, maybe youre just doing something wrong, i think outside temp has to be below a certain degree too and try remove the key completly and maybe dont open the door

The halo "bulb" is actually the light module with the LEDs. The halo tips push up against the hot LEDs and eventually burns brown. That brown light reflects through the halo giving it that yellow look. To replace just the halo, you would need to buy a new light assembly for a lot of $$$. You can't just replace that halo part. Best to clean it. My melting worked but was messy and I would've used a dremel if I could fit it in.

@@vinfogarage1546 I have/had this same problem on my X3. I just changed out the module myself last month. Did all the steps of clearing out the light tube of burnt yellow (I used a dremel) and changed out the module. Then a month later, the yellowing came back so my assumption is that I didn't get enough of the yellow out the first time. I may have to get back in there and use the drill bit method you suggested. I would have rather just tried to change out the light tube but that seems like a pain in the ass since it's within the assembly and probably something I can't do without just changing out the entire headlight huh?

Nice. As I mentioned before. I wish I dremeled/drilled it or shaved it somehow. Melting was messy but effective.

Where did you bought the new driver Oem?

Hi is the DRL still remain white after u drill the burnt plastic. ? Or will it chg to yellowish again after few months.

Like I mentioned in one of my responses; it's still very white because it's so bright. And I would expect it to go yellow again but not for years. The small amount of material removed may actually help it last longer as it's not as close to the heat source.

@@mubull so far so good

Hi, i have exactly this problem, sanded down the brown dot, but the tip of the plastic still cloudy, can you be more specific on the furniture varnish, i have a 3 in 1 red oil for furniture, would that help?

@@Lurigobo No use something that doesnt stain. Best to use something that leaves a clear surface (like clear coat on car paint) and creates like a layer to smooth out the part you sanded or used the dremel on.

@@FireCrackerEST Thank you for the response, i used a clear epoxy and it worked great, the cloudy surface went away and the change was great!! Appreciate you’re comment

Tks. Will try epoxy clear since I do hv some leftover

How to use clear epoxy. I dont have any but i will order some. What do you do with it ? Do u just put it on ? Or is there a process to It?

Thank you sir. No coding needed. You might get an error code if the car ignition is on and headlight disconnected. But no coding.

Yea...The bright LED is a cool look but it comes with a price I guess. I see Audi and other manufacturers have the same issue. I was determined to find a fix... or at least try giving the cost of replacing it. Nothing to lose. I tried to code the voltage lower but it had no effect.

I m having the same x3 year 2015, LCI. MILEAGE only 86k KM. One turned yellowish now, meaning one driver/module gone? How many holes to drill in order to replace the driver? No easy way out and have to remove bumper? Do you have a simplified image to show which location to drill and cut ?

I also found a brand Sinolyn which comes with a better nicer ring x4,plus ballast and DTM daylight. One set. Do u think is better option since it’s better to change all 4 modules/driver instead of one Bcos the cost only slightly higher Vs changing all 4 driver.

Yellow means its burnt. The yellow color is reflecting the burn. Even if you change the module, you might have to scrape/clean the light tube... its probably burnt too. You need to remove the bumper because the headlights are mounted below the top of the bumper. I tried to go in through the wheel well but wasn't really working. If you get the headlight assembly out and look at my video, you should be able find how to get access. I did it kinda messy because i never saw someone do it before. Sorry I don't have additional pics.

Not familiar with that product. I try to stay away from after market add ons. You might run into quality issues and throwing codes.

That's typically an easy setting in your iDrive system. Just turn Daytime Runnings Lights OFF under Lighting category. And they'll only come on with the headlights. No coding necessary.

@VinfoGarage mines a 2016 but for some reason under the light setting on the idrive it, doesnt have the option to turn it off... My e92 had that turn off function. But for some reason this x4 doesnt.

Interesting... my friend had a '16 X4.... great car. I also have a e92 and f36. Both have the option. I don't think I ever saw a current day Bimmer without the option under Vehicle Settings / Lighting. However, if it's not there... it could definitely be coded through ESYS.

Thanks. That was also my approach. I'm a pretty experienced coder and no matter what value I set it at... I saw no difference. Even when I tried on my 4 series. If you can get it to work, please post back. I really don't need my DRL that bright either!

Yes. You'll need to recode the VO (vehicle order) and other parameters in the lighting module through ESYS so the car is aware of the change...not to mention the hardware/wiring changes. Probably a video somewhere showing the process.

Sure.... the link is in the video description under LED modules/drivers

Assuming the heat is not from the outside temperature... you might be able to pull the mirror heat fuse....but you might lose directional control of the mirrors. I can imagine a ton of heat being trapped in the mirror assembly and the glass absorbing the heat.

I would always start with checking fuses. On the E83 ... I believe it's fuse 25 in the passenger side fusebox behind the glovebox.

Thank you. Here's another video I found for other F series. th-cam.com/video/F9BUsgURb-Y/w-d-xo.html This is a simpler fix than what I had to go through on the X3. Now there's 2 videos on the internet!

@@vinfogarage1546 thanks! For the non LCI (2010-2014) there is another one : th-cam.com/video/9komrVbhnx8/w-d-xo.html

Did the repair last? Did the light tubes melted again ?

@@manip7462 so far so good. When I melted the burnt part away it created a little more room between the tube and the LED....a little more "cooling" room. The LED is so bright that a little more space didn't make a difference in brightness.

Turn off the heated mirrors? Curious as to why you would ...but... probably only possible through coding.

@@vinfogarage1546 Aren't they activated by pushing the rear window defroster button?

I think within a certain temperature range they come on and off without pushing buttons. If it's outside of the automatic range... you're probably right... they will be controlled by the rear defrost button.

@@vinfogarage1546 No control - stay On all the time Summer and Winter.

No solder. Just heat from the tip to break up the burn mark and scoop out the material. A better solution would be to polish the burn off with a dremil tool attachment listed below. The F10 may have easier access. If I were to do it again... I would try lightly grinding the burn off first. But I'm still satisfied with my results. www.amazon.com/dp/B094R4FGPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NBJFRQVK94NMX4PF73VJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

No internal oil burning. I first noticed the smell of burning oil at red lights. It was leaking from the back corner and dripping onto the exhaust. I didn't do a smoke test because I didn't suspect a vacuum leak... I already knew it was leaking. You can test with one of those small mighty vac hand pumps on the small port I showed in the video.