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3/4 turn out on fuel screw is best starting point

I have the factory service manual and the factory updates on the carbs from 76-79 for the gs750. The screws on the bottom were fir matching each carb to the cylinder volume. Yes the mains could be changed, but this bottom screw is a fine tune adjustment of the main. If you mark each bottom screw and can guarantee you put it back exactly as you took it out when changing the screw oring then you're golden. However, most orings are shot on these 45yr old bikes on these screws. A tiny fine adjustment of 1/8 turn or 1/16 turn made the difference in too rich or too lean or just right. If you change a piston or mill a head you'd need to adjust these screws as well.

You're right. I've renamed it.

Appreciate the video, but it was more about carb sync than colortune plug reader.

Really helps a lot !! Can I ask where you ordered the new blade from ?

Cool bike I just got the exact same Color and year as you! Hasn’t been started in 29 yrs and got it going in a few hours! What a Great Machine! Thanks for the video!

That fuel screw is just for the idle, the main jet is under the slide needle. to change the mixture while the engine is at speed you need to change the size of the main jet, by buying new main jets that are a different size.

This helped me a lot! Thank you. I'm a little annoyed RYOBI made it so hard, but your instructions are very helpful, and as far as I was able to research - it's the only one of its kind so I appreciate you making it!

My unit has developed play between the blade assembly and the body. Will this be fixed if I open the case and retighten everything you mentioned? It's still under warranty so I could send it in. Thank you

Where you buy the clear cap at?

We have one of these fry pans that has been unusable for about 30 years. I couldn't bear to part with it and was delighted to find this video. We tried it and our pan works again! Thank you!

I just bought one today for my first bike 1979 I can't wait to enjoy it

Thanks from a 76 year's old man and I am going to open mine this week to take a look

Hi jhs24, thanks for the replacement part info from Homelite! I had a Black and Decker corded model prior and had the blades sharpened and worked well, but the cost for the sharpen was close to the purchase price, albeit, it worked quite well after. Looking to get one of the 2606's and glad a replacement blade can be purchased. One thing to consider regarding the label, would be to just poke out the hole in the sticker above the screw, rather than peeling it off.....in your case, you were doing this first hand so no prior info on the hidden screw. Looking at a close up of the blade, it appears the teeth are pretty straight, vs my B&D with curved teeth, so it's not easily sharpened with a flat file.

Thanks very much.

The factory manual says not to turn them screws. Interesting.

Wait so the fuel screw, I though that was also part of the idle circuit. Is it not? Are you saying that the air screw affects the idle circuit and the fuel screw affects it when you open the carbs up? If so no wonder I can’t get mine tuned! I’ve been looking everywhere for information like this!

Thanks so much! Ignore the mean comments, anyone who needs more detailed instructions probably shouldn't be taking things apart in the first place.

Always buy a GM Cap and roter don't use any other mfg, even that clear junk

Really bad presentation. Next time video tape it.

I have the same model bike I will have to check the other videos for some tips, thanks.

My cord gets very hot at the wall after just a few minutes. The pan does heat. Do you think it would work if I open the controller and replace the wire?

Kind of, sort of, in an obscure fashion, instructions ? ? ?

Default pilot screw is 1 full turn out per the suzuki Canada update 77-13 for the gs750 1977. Best not to mess with the pilot screw, but if you have, that's for a stock setting. 1 full turn out for air screw as well. Then tune from there. I will put the airbox on then do a final tune. www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/service_bulletins/page-3

Would you mind sharing where you found the clear rotor cap? Thank you! 1/22/23

Where did you get that !!!

Have you got a video of dissasembly the tacho? Tia

Yes, where did find that clear cap?

Hey, where did you find that transparent distributor cap?

Sir Where did you find clear transparent cap and rotor for Vortec engine 🤔

@jhs24 Please can I convert a skillet that works on 110V to 250 V?if yes,how can I do it please.

If that heating element rod damaged...how will you replace the round attached rod?

I got the bulb and installed it and it works great.. I do electronics design so I have all the tools. thank again.

very nice You camera work is 5, your research is a 10. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076RWWDPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks a lot....

will try this,dont seem like it would change much,but i have redone the entire front end on mine,control arms,balljoints,tie rods inner and outer brand new...i still dont like the feeling of steering,will give it a try thanks!

how much was for the honda manual?

Hey Jack - great video, however, the arrows and stuff are really blurry. I've been dealing with a similar issue since we purchased the van new. I just got a lifetime alignment and wheel balance from Firestone and have them try to fix about every 3 months or so. Then I figured it had to be something else. I tried looking up your old website (younkristen.net) to look at that service manual snapshot you took showing the arrows but it's dead. Is there another link to that? Thanks for your video and help!

Thanks for the video. Really helpfull! I bought a new rubber spring mount for my 2006 Odyssey from honda parts cheap, and the new one even makes it more idiot proof marking the left and right sides. I used Monroe Sensatrac struts. I just replaced the rubber mount, the top mount and the nut at the top that holds everything together. I reused the spring seats as they were in good condition.

Have a 07 ody touring and no problem never since I bought mind doesn't give me any problems at all

thanks a lot for this video!! i have the same problem with my 2007 odyssey, ill definitely do this and hope it fixes the problem. thanks once again!!

I know I did it correctly because I've not had any problems since then. Steering is very easy and tread wear is even. The reason you need to get an alignment after fixing the struts is because you took apart the strut assy. If you have the problem in the video, no amount of alignments will fix it unless you do the strut fixes. Been there, done that.

If you look at the 2007 odyssey service manual page 18-28 step 3, you will see that "A" is the mounting flanges which gives you then centerline which you have to center items "B" and "C" on; "B" is the arrow stamp on the metal; and"C" is the left or right arrow depending on which strut you're working on. It's very easy get confused. Watch all 3 of the videos, it might help. I had all the parts in front of me to help.

I purchased a digital version of the manual, it apears to be the same page as the one in the video, but I do not see where it tells to line up these marks with the center of the bolt flanges at the bottom of the strut, mine is doing the exact same thing after a right hand turn it pulls to the right, seems to correct itself after a left hand turn, or by jerking the wheel to the left. The diagram in the book is a little confusing, so I could understand people making a mistake.

great video man! very helpful...with all the problems of this 07 dyssey you can easily make 10 videos.i also have an 07 odyssey, steering wheel shakes both low speed and high speed, i just changed the front rotors and bought new sets of tires,balanced and aligned, still shakes at high speed (75mph). im done with honda...

Problem,with Honda. LOL Somehow I am not be surprised. Proud to sold mine finally.

This video only applies to 2005-2007 style of struts and appears that only 2006-2007 Odyssey had the assembly problems from what I'm hearing.

I've driven 6,000+ miles on the van since I made the fixes 3 months ago and I've loved every mile. It drives like a dream and does not pull left or right anymore. I can easily drive 10 hrs/day now with no sore wrists. I no longer have memory steer or any pulling. The van follows the road like it should now instead of having a mind of its own. See Edmunds.com for more details of my fix.

With your tips, I was able to turn the wheel and inspect in place with a flashlight. I found that indeed the rubber cushion alignment marks were way off. Much worse than that, I found the parts were switched left/right! It was completely wrong. After 5 years of living with this, I'm off to show the local Honda service manager. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!

You can't do just one. You have to do the pair and then get a 4 wheel alignment. Just because it pulls in one direction does not mean that side it pulls to is the problem.

I have a 2006 that has, I think, the same problem. I bought it new, but it has never been quite right. Always pulls to the right a little or a lot, depending. Yours mainly pulled to the left and you fixed the right strut (correct?). Should I start with the left one in my case? Thanks!