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jhs24
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2010
วีดีโอ
Mikuni carbs GS750 1977 Vacuummate tube removal
มุมมอง 54ปีที่แล้ว
Mikuni carbs GS750 1977 Vacuummate tube removal
Suzuki GS750 1977 tuning carb sync vacuumate
มุมมอง 262ปีที่แล้ว
Suzuki GS750 1977 tuning carb sync vacuumate
Blade replacement instructions P2606 Ryobi 22" trimmer
มุมมอง 4.4Kปีที่แล้ว
Blade replacement instructions P2606 Ryobi 22" trimmer blade part is homelite HM311826001
Suzuki 1977 GS750 carb tuning VM26 Mikuni
มุมมอง 2.4Kปีที่แล้ว
Suzuki 1977 GS750 carb tuning VM26 Mikuni
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 clear transparent distributor cap 2001 Express Van CNG- Part 3
มุมมอง 1722 ปีที่แล้ว
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 clear transparent distributor cap 2001 Express Van CNG- Part 3
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 random misfire SOLVED 2001 Express Van
มุมมอง 4.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 random misfire SOLVED 2001 Express Van
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 clear transparent distributor cap 2001 Express Van- Part 2
มุมมอง 2252 ปีที่แล้ว
Vortec 5.7 chevy 350 clear transparent distributor cap 2001 Express Van- Part 2
1977 GS750 NOS exhaust unboxing after 20 years
มุมมอง 172 ปีที่แล้ว
1977 GS750 NOS exhaust unboxing after 20 years
1977 Suzuki GS750 Tachometer Repair Lube Clean Rejuvinate Fix - Slow Response
มุมมอง 9472 ปีที่แล้ว
1977 Suzuki GS750 Tachometer Repair Lube Clean Rejuvinate Fix - Slow Response
Toyota Camry Radio Light Bulb Fixed (Proof)
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Toyota Camry Radio Light Bulb Fixed (Proof)
Toyota Camry Radio LCD Light Bulb Replacement Fix (Solved)
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Toyota Camry Radio LCD Light Bulb Replacement Fix (Solved)
Hoover Nesco Stainless Skillet Cord Fix Repair
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Hoover Nesco Stainless Skillet Cord Fix Repair
Video 3: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
มุมมอง 3K14 ปีที่แล้ว
Video 3: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
Video 2: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
มุมมอง 22K14 ปีที่แล้ว
Video 2: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
Video 1: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
มุมมอง 7K14 ปีที่แล้ว
Video 1: Honda Odyssey 2007 Strut Steering Problem
3/4 turn out on fuel screw is best starting point
I have the factory service manual and the factory updates on the carbs from 76-79 for the gs750. The screws on the bottom were fir matching each carb to the cylinder volume. Yes the mains could be changed, but this bottom screw is a fine tune adjustment of the main. If you mark each bottom screw and can guarantee you put it back exactly as you took it out when changing the screw oring then you're golden. However, most orings are shot on these 45yr old bikes on these screws. A tiny fine adjustment of 1/8 turn or 1/16 turn made the difference in too rich or too lean or just right. If you change a piston or mill a head you'd need to adjust these screws as well.
You're right. I've renamed it.
Appreciate the video, but it was more about carb sync than colortune plug reader.
Really helps a lot !! Can I ask where you ordered the new blade from ?
It was just a site that Google said had the part called www.smallenginesprodealer.com
Cool bike I just got the exact same Color and year as you! Hasn’t been started in 29 yrs and got it going in a few hours! What a Great Machine! Thanks for the video!
Where did you find one to buy? Was is in good shape?
@@kristensederstrom4357 Rochester New York! And Yes minus the Surface rust its perfect!
Make a video and show the link here of the bike in New York. Would love to see it.
That fuel screw is just for the idle, the main jet is under the slide needle. to change the mixture while the engine is at speed you need to change the size of the main jet, by buying new main jets that are a different size.
The screw on the bottom is not for the idle. It affects the main and the idle. It affects the vacuum on the bowel. The screw on the bottom is factory set to the carb it's attached to in order to give thar carb the correct volume of fuel mixture based on the cylinder's volume it's attached to. Basically you pick the main jet and needle jet and sync the carbs on a bench and adjust all the floats then set the screw underneath at 1 or 1 1/4 out. Then start the bike and use vacuummate and 4 colortunes at the same time to adjust all the carbs so they are running at the same vacuum at constant higher rpms by adjusting the bottom screws and screws on top of the carbs closest to the cylinders until you get a nice blue in the colortunes and the vacuumate shows them all equal. Then you can start to work on idle and the blips and transition from idle circuit to main circuit. It's an iterative process. There's a very good paper on it on gsresources website on the vm26. These carbs are not like most carbs. Yes lots were made in the 1970s but the smoothbore sliders were gone by the 80s and there are fewer and fewer people who can tune these. The pro tuners of the 70s are few and far between. I don't claim to be a pro. I just found lots of papers and read the factory manuals and talked to shops until I figured it out. My carbs are really well tuned and my bike pulls good and my pipes aren't blue and I don't smell gas in my exhaust.
This helped me a lot! Thank you. I'm a little annoyed RYOBI made it so hard, but your instructions are very helpful, and as far as I was able to research - it's the only one of its kind so I appreciate you making it!
My unit has developed play between the blade assembly and the body. Will this be fixed if I open the case and retighten everything you mentioned? It's still under warranty so I could send it in. Thank you
Where you buy the clear cap at?
I got it on ebay about 10 years ago. It was the last one.
We have one of these fry pans that has been unusable for about 30 years. I couldn't bear to part with it and was delighted to find this video. We tried it and our pan works again! Thank you!
So glad you were able to get it fixed!
I just bought one today for my first bike 1979 I can't wait to enjoy it
Thanks from a 76 year's old man and I am going to open mine this week to take a look
Hi jhs24, thanks for the replacement part info from Homelite! I had a Black and Decker corded model prior and had the blades sharpened and worked well, but the cost for the sharpen was close to the purchase price, albeit, it worked quite well after. Looking to get one of the 2606's and glad a replacement blade can be purchased. One thing to consider regarding the label, would be to just poke out the hole in the sticker above the screw, rather than peeling it off.....in your case, you were doing this first hand so no prior info on the hidden screw. Looking at a close up of the blade, it appears the teeth are pretty straight, vs my B&D with curved teeth, so it's not easily sharpened with a flat file.
You could do that, yes. I wanted to save the label though.
Thanks very much.
The factory manual says not to turn them screws. Interesting.
Wait so the fuel screw, I though that was also part of the idle circuit. Is it not? Are you saying that the air screw affects the idle circuit and the fuel screw affects it when you open the carbs up? If so no wonder I can’t get mine tuned! I’ve been looking everywhere for information like this!
You are correct. This is a very advanced carb. Most bike shops are used to only 1 air screw or 1 fuel screw. This carb has 1 air, 1 fuel, and 1 main screw and then it has a slide lifter on each carb top under each lid and then a pilot needle size and then needle drop heights and a main jet. It was the Superbike of 1976-77 fir suzuki and highly tunable. It's old tech now, but if you know how to tune it it can be dialed in. It takes some doing and for sure understanding how the vm26 works to get it running right.
Thanks so much! Ignore the mean comments, anyone who needs more detailed instructions probably shouldn't be taking things apart in the first place.
Always buy a GM Cap and roter don't use any other mfg, even that clear junk
I agree with the rotor comment. The cap was actually as good as the OEM GM one. I used the clear one for about 5 months and didn't have any problems. It's definitely fun to see the sparks for educational purposes.
Really bad presentation. Next time video tape it.
Sometimes a guy realizes he could help others by making a video after he's fixed something. Consider being thankful that some people want to help others fix their stuff.
Exactly. I bet he doesn’t even know how to use a camera 😅
Well I'm not a pro. You get a free video and a way to fix something. If you don't like it I guess that's up to you. I'm just grateful others are willing to share how they fixed stuff.
I have the same model bike I will have to check the other videos for some tips, thanks.
My cord gets very hot at the wall after just a few minutes. The pan does heat. Do you think it would work if I open the controller and replace the wire?
I think your cord needs to be replaced. Yes. If that doesn't help then you may need a completely new temp control.
Kind of, sort of, in an obscure fashion, instructions ? ? ?
Default pilot screw is 1 full turn out per the suzuki Canada update 77-13 for the gs750 1977. Best not to mess with the pilot screw, but if you have, that's for a stock setting. 1 full turn out for air screw as well. Then tune from there. I will put the airbox on then do a final tune. www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/service_bulletins/page-3
Would you mind sharing where you found the clear rotor cap? Thank you! 1/22/23
I got it on ebay about 10 years ago. It was the last one.
Where did you get that !!!
I got it 5 years ago on ebay.
Have you got a video of dissasembly the tacho? Tia
I didn't video that part. It was tricky. I used a really small screwdriver and slowly worked my way around the metal crimped edge, working it slowly outwards until it was all unbent enough that I could use the lip on a paint can opener, again very gently around the edges, until it was straight so it could separate. It was a very delicate job. I'm not kidding about the paint can opener. It has a good lip and handle to allow for being very gentle with good leverage side to side. I didn't use the paint can opener in its normal prying up and down motion. I used it gently side to side as I went around the tach about 10 times once I could get the lip between the metal and plastic. To close the tach, I used the smooth flip side of the paint can opener and gradually formed the metal back to make a seal. I had to hold the tach face down on a cloth so it wouldn't move while I re-formed the metal, again, by going around about 10 times. It was a process, but it worked.
@@24jhs Thank you very much for your reply. I am busy restoring my 1978 Suzuki GS750. Both the metal rings around the tacho and speedo are rusted. I need to remove both and try to clean them up.
@Paul Parez If you have any questions, I'm glad to help. How is the restoration going? I'd love to chat. These bikes are awesome.
@@24jhs Restoration is going slowly but will get there eventually. Thanks for asking. Every time I remove a part I find something else that needs repairing/replacing. At the moment I am looking to get new fork cap bolts. They are $16-00 in the US but over $50-00 for postage to England. I am trying to find a local supplier but no luck yet. Also the m10 bolts on these bikes are 1.25 thread pitch so really difficult to find. Just got the head and cylinders back from the vapour Blasters. Very impressed. They look brand new. Chat again soon.
There's aleays something to fix it seems. I've purchased items from USA based websites and a couple from UK websites. Postage can be spendy. Take a video and put it on TH-cam. There's not a lot on here where people show working on these bikes. I've only found a few videos. Are you doing new pistons and everything? Valves?
Yes, where did find that clear cap?
I got it on ebay 6 years ago.
Hey, where did you find that transparent distributor cap?
I got it on ebay 6 years ago.
@@24jhs nice been looking for this one for 7.4 vortec.
Sir Where did you find clear transparent cap and rotor for Vortec engine 🤔
@jhs24 Please can I convert a skillet that works on 110V to 250 V?if yes,how can I do it please.
I'm not sure if that's possible.
If that heating element rod damaged...how will you replace the round attached rod?
The heating rod is cast into the pan. If the heating round element on the bottom of the pan is dead, the pan is trash. However, the heating element almost never goes bad. It's almost always the plug that connects to the pan.
@@24jhs but I mistakenly plugged that 110v into 220v...and after few mins that pan stopped working
@@palhaseebkhan3497 you may have fried the heating element.
@@palhaseebkhan3497 i was using 100v frying 🍳 on 220 for around 1 month. But unfortunately its damage now.... Sad. .....
I got the bulb and installed it and it works great.. I do electronics design so I have all the tools. thank again.
Glad it helped
Glad you got it working!
very nice You camera work is 5, your research is a 10. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076RWWDPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks a lot....
Thanks for the comment!
will try this,dont seem like it would change much,but i have redone the entire front end on mine,control arms,balljoints,tie rods inner and outer brand new...i still dont like the feeling of steering,will give it a try thanks!
You need to look at both front struts. The video only shows me doing one, but I did both. Sorry for the blurry video...if you watch the 3rd one it's a little more clear. It's not a high quality camera for video.
how much was for the honda manual?
Hey Jack - great video, however, the arrows and stuff are really blurry. I've been dealing with a similar issue since we purchased the van new. I just got a lifetime alignment and wheel balance from Firestone and have them try to fix about every 3 months or so. Then I figured it had to be something else. I tried looking up your old website (younkristen.net) to look at that service manual snapshot you took showing the arrows but it's dead. Is there another link to that? Thanks for your video and help!
Thanks for the video. Really helpfull! I bought a new rubber spring mount for my 2006 Odyssey from honda parts cheap, and the new one even makes it more idiot proof marking the left and right sides. I used Monroe Sensatrac struts. I just replaced the rubber mount, the top mount and the nut at the top that holds everything together. I reused the spring seats as they were in good condition.
Have a 07 ody touring and no problem never since I bought mind doesn't give me any problems at all
thanks a lot for this video!! i have the same problem with my 2007 odyssey, ill definitely do this and hope it fixes the problem. thanks once again!!
I know I did it correctly because I've not had any problems since then. Steering is very easy and tread wear is even. The reason you need to get an alignment after fixing the struts is because you took apart the strut assy. If you have the problem in the video, no amount of alignments will fix it unless you do the strut fixes. Been there, done that.
jhs24 mark the bottom shock bolts before taking appart shock no need for allignment,you re welcome ;)
That's true if you take off and put on the same strut orientation. However, the top rubber piece changes the front ride height significantly when it's rotated, so the ride height changed and so did the toe. The alignment is necessary. You'll feel the difference right away when you drive it too. It doesn't have memory steer, but the toe will fight you until it's re-aligned.
If you look at the 2007 odyssey service manual page 18-28 step 3, you will see that "A" is the mounting flanges which gives you then centerline which you have to center items "B" and "C" on; "B" is the arrow stamp on the metal; and"C" is the left or right arrow depending on which strut you're working on. It's very easy get confused. Watch all 3 of the videos, it might help. I had all the parts in front of me to help.
I purchased a digital version of the manual, it apears to be the same page as the one in the video, but I do not see where it tells to line up these marks with the center of the bolt flanges at the bottom of the strut, mine is doing the exact same thing after a right hand turn it pulls to the right, seems to correct itself after a left hand turn, or by jerking the wheel to the left. The diagram in the book is a little confusing, so I could understand people making a mistake.
great video man! very helpful...with all the problems of this 07 dyssey you can easily make 10 videos.i also have an 07 odyssey, steering wheel shakes both low speed and high speed, i just changed the front rotors and bought new sets of tires,balanced and aligned, still shakes at high speed (75mph). im done with honda...
Problem,with Honda. LOL Somehow I am not be surprised. Proud to sold mine finally.
This video only applies to 2005-2007 style of struts and appears that only 2006-2007 Odyssey had the assembly problems from what I'm hearing.
I've driven 6,000+ miles on the van since I made the fixes 3 months ago and I've loved every mile. It drives like a dream and does not pull left or right anymore. I can easily drive 10 hrs/day now with no sore wrists. I no longer have memory steer or any pulling. The van follows the road like it should now instead of having a mind of its own. See Edmunds.com for more details of my fix.
With your tips, I was able to turn the wheel and inspect in place with a flashlight. I found that indeed the rubber cushion alignment marks were way off. Much worse than that, I found the parts were switched left/right! It was completely wrong. After 5 years of living with this, I'm off to show the local Honda service manager. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
You can't do just one. You have to do the pair and then get a 4 wheel alignment. Just because it pulls in one direction does not mean that side it pulls to is the problem.
I have a 2006 that has, I think, the same problem. I bought it new, but it has never been quite right. Always pulls to the right a little or a lot, depending. Yours mainly pulled to the left and you fixed the right strut (correct?). Should I start with the left one in my case? Thanks!