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I did too! Glad it helped you out 🙂

I did skip over that part! Thanks for pointing that out. When you create a floor plan and you hit "export", it saves a photo of that floor plan to your system album. It is stored in with the pictures and videos from using your phone camera. In my case (Android), it saves it to my "Photos" app, along with the many, many pictures I take of our giant white dogs 😄 From the photos app, I can share the floor plan just like I would any other photo. As far as I know, you can't export the measurements as an xml or other type of data. If I'm correct, it only works with the Mi Home app.

@UnchartedDIY of wow I didn't expect suck a prompt reply on a video this old. Thank you. I had a suspicion of that, I was just hoping there was a possibility there would be a usable data file that could be imported to other software like CAD or like I said a floorplan design app. Those things are easily manually entered just hoping like I said

It sounds to me like you have a pretty solid system for dealing with these curves, so this NeoRulerGO might not be that useful for you. I don't have your level of comfort in CAD programs and I don't need 0.1mm accuracy for most of my projects, so for me it's much faster to use the rolling measure to get a very close number in about 30 seconds. I also like bringing it with me to stores so I can take quick measurements on the fly. Thanks for watching!

Fortunately, that's pretty easy. There are adjustment "screws" under the metal bottom. They may have caps that need to be removed, but once you can see the adjusters, you simply turn them clockwise or counter clockwise to make the adjustment. You can see these adjusters at the end of this video. Hope that helps!

I think that would work great. The baffle can be made to any size and shape, so fitting it to a T post should be easy to do. Thanks for watching, and for taking care of the bluebirds!

I would recommend trying it. It's been one of the best kitchen upgrades and I still smile every time I use one of the drawers 🙂

Using either the control panel on the AC unit itself or the remote control, you use the MODE button to cycle through the modes. The first one is the automatic setting which will choose if the room needs cooling or heating based on the temperature you have specified. The next is cooling, then dehumidify, then fan only and finally heat. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching 👍

35 mph is pretty laughable for our local climate, and it sounds like your climate too. 80 mph can be really tough on feeders and everything else! I added a 2.5 pound barbell plate to the bottom of our tube-type feeder to keep it from spilling all the seeds in high wind and it does help. Our seed block cylinder feeder (from Wild Birds Unlimited) has a wire base that is too thin for pigeons, doves and magpies. They can't wrap their feet around the wire, but many birds such as finches, bluejays, nuthatches, flickers and downy woodpeckers can easily grasp on to feed. It works well except for starlings, but starlings are trouble at any feeder. I agree it's a lot of work, but the 4x4 sounds like a good idea and it should withstand very high winds. Adding guy wires to the pole feeder you saw at Wild Birds would probably work too. However, the problem with the wires is that they need to have something on them for visibility so you (or pets) don't trip over them. I have small diameter white PVC pipe over the wires in our garden, but they aren't necessarily very pretty. I'd love to hear which direction you go, and Happy Bird Feeding 🙂 Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@UnchartedDIY Thanks for the suggestions! I hadn't considered those options. I can guarantee I would trip over guy wires repeatedly even if I did use PVC 😂 I think I would have less seed loss with a securely mounted feeder than if I used a weight. I also want it to look nice as much as possible. I'm going to order a Squirrel Stopper mounting pole. The auger is more substantial than the Wild Birds Unlimited one. The auger goes 2 feet into the ground. The pole diameter is 1.25" with a wall thickness of 4.37mm. The top tapers to 1". There's an adapter available that I could screw into the bottom of my existing Droll Yankees feeders. It then slides down into the top of a 1" pole. I'm thinking the weight of a heavier bird feeder may be sufficient to keep the feeder in place with the adapter. For my lighter nyjer feeder I think I will have to use a 1.25" female to 3/4" male pipe adapter and screw it onto the lower section of the pole that is 1.25" wide. I did find a couple of these mounting poles that a bird store was selling on Amazon in "used, like new" condition, that were cheaper than new ones. So, I can justify the cost a bit more if I end up having to use one for parts to raise up the nyjer feeder. When I asked on Amazon about how much wind the pole could withstand one reviewer said it handles 60 mph winds without wobbling at all. So, I'm hopeful. If it doesn't work out, then I'll use 4x4 posts instead. I think I'll get a caged seed block feeder too. I mostly use caged feeders at this point due to starlings and pigeons taking over my feeders in the past.

Your plan sounds very well thought out, and it's good that you have contingency ideas too. I agree that a sturdy mount is the best way to go about it. I think the 60 mph pole should work for most winds. Winds above that are not all that common (at least around these parts) and if you're home you can simply take the feeders down for a while. I hope it all goes together easily and looks great too. 👍

I'm glad it helped you out, and thanks for watching!

There might be, but since they are sealed bearings they should be able to withstand some moisture. The problem is that leakage from the tank or valves results in pooled water where the lower bearing sits. Very poor design choice in my opinion, whether by accident or intentional. When I replaced the bad valves and sealed my cracked hot water tank, the leakage stopped and the cleaner is still going strong.

Mine was bad and quite rusted too. I was afraid of breaking it, so I filled the bearing housing with oil and let it sit overnight. That did the trick and it spins great now. Otherwise, several people have commented that they were able to remove it. @geeberke4567 detailed how: "Thanks for the video! It really helped me out! I had to replace both bearings on mine. I placed the unit, impeller side up, on my vice with the jaws about 1/2” or so open, letting the shaft drop thru. Then I lightly tapped the shaft in the center of the turbine with a punch and hammer. It came out daily easily. Next I put the shaft loosely in the vice, resting on the bearing, and tapped it off the shaft. Tapped the new bearing on, then tapped the turbine back on carefully with a hammer. Works great!" I'd love to hear your experience with it, and I hope it goes smoothly.

Thank you. And, thanks for watching!

De nada. ¡Gracias por mirar!

Thanks for the heads up, and I have so many questions! Where did you see replacements? In store or online? Did you get one? If you ordered one, how long did it take to arrive?

I hope it is easy to figure out what happened. Thanks for watching!

The Bauer sander spins down slowly, so I'm pretty sure there isn't a pad brake. Without a Dewalt sander to dissect, so I don't think I can help answer your question 🙁 Maybe try searching the web for "Dewalt orbital sander pad brake" or something like that?

If you check out the video, you can see the decibel testing I did. It's a bit quieter than the other 4 portable ACs that I have experience with. By their very nature, none of these units will be whisper quiet since they are moving a lot of air.

If you check out the video, you can see the decibel testing I did. It's a bit quieter than the other 4 portable ACs that I have experience with. By their very nature, none of these units will be whisper quiet since they are moving a lot of air.

Don't worry about asking a great question - I'm happy to help! It should be no problem if you add length to the legs, while keeping the same basic geometry of the angles. I should point out that because of the angle of the legs, adding length to the legs doesn't correspond one-to-one with the height of the barrel. For example, raising the barrel up 5 inches would require making the legs roughly 5.8 inches longer. I hope that makes sense. If you are going to go over about 6 inches higher, you might want to consider switching from 2x4 lumber to 2x6 for added strength, but it probably isn't necessary. Just keep in mind that making it taller will change your leverage when turning the barrel. You could always stand on something about the same height as you raised the barrel, giving you the same leverage as the standard height. Hope that helps, and happy composting!

@@UnchartedDIY ahh thank you so much for your reply! I will make a couple of these for my gardens :)

Thanks for the kudos on quality 👍 I can't picture what is sticking out, but there is a pin in the center of the seat that opens the valve when it is in place on the cleaner. Maybe that pin is stuck? I hope you are able to figure it out, and I would love to know what the issue and solution were.

I agree with it being too good to throw away. But why they went with proprietary pads and don't make it easy to get replacement parts makes no sense to me 🤔

I'm happy it helped you out!

Unfortunately, the turbine rotor was not a replacement part, only available as a turbine motor assembly. I have three ideas: Try to glue the turbine back together using 2-part epoxy. Try looking for the turbine motor assembly for your model number. I can't find any for mine, but yours may be newer and still available. You can also try eBay for used parts. See if you can find a used machine of the same model number and combine the two using the best parts of each. Hope that helps!

Squeaky brakes: easy. Building spacecraft: difficult (just ask Boeing). Getting a tween off their phone: impossible 😄

Thanks for letting me know how well your repair has worked. I went with the tape to cover any areas potentially weakened by rust, but it might have been overkill. It sounds like good prep and the Flex Seal alone did the trick for your cooler. Nice work!

I forgot to mention that I also painted the top white, which reduced the temperature of the metal by at least 30 degrees. This should improve cooling efficiency.

That was a smart decision! I kind of cringe when I see coolers painted a surprisingly dark shade to match the house paint. White goes with everything and makes a big difference!

Sure, no problem. Putting it on a surface does increase accuracy with long distances and less-than-steady hands, but handheld works.

I'm happy it was useful!

I'm happy it helped you out!

That is a great solution as long as adding warm, moist air to that space isn't going to create problems. If the garage has ventilation or you can open doors or windows, the moisture might not be a concern at all. I would love to know how it works out if you try it 👍

@@UnchartedDIY If the rest of the garage is otherwise unmanaged climate wise, I dont know if it would make too much impact.

@@PeteNice29 I agree. If I had a similar situation, I'd vent it exactly like you are talking about. I can't see a downside!

You are welcome. Hope it helped you out!

It can do the whole house but only if you use the Mi Home app to manually draw using the "Hand drawn floor plan" feature. You can draw a rough drawing of the complete house shape and tap each line to either measure that line with the laser, or choose from measurements you've already taken. The length of that segment of your drawing changes to match the actual measurement. Another way would be to draw at line, measure, then draw another line and measure, etc, building the floor plan as you go. That said, it doesn't not calculate square footage or volume for you. Instead you have to manually do the simple math. If the house is large with lots of spaces to measure, you might want to look at the Inkerma Bilateral laser distance meter. It is more expensive, but you can measure a whole room from the same location because the lasers measure from both ends of the meter at once. It doesn't have a companion app, but it does measure area and volume directly on the meter. You can see my review here: th-cam.com/video/ac-7RYzS1Ko/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps, and happy measuring!

@@UnchartedDIY oh brilliant thank you for the detailed reply! Ideally I wanted to use the Bosch on measure app, or magic plan as they have some great features but only compatible with the more expensive lasers. I think I’ll stick with sketching out the floor plan for now whilst I save up!

The humidity goes out the exhaust hose in the form of vapor. Otherwise it has a catch basin and an optional drain hose for continuous draining in really humid locals.

Well I hope the video helped you out 👍

@UnchartedDIY it did , great work man

It makes me happy to know it helped. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for that item number. Maybe they've gotten some back in stock and that number will be helpful. Were you able to order it? I didn't pass along the part number in the video because when I called the parts line, they were out of the pads and didn't know if they were going to get them back in. Also in my experience, parts take a couple of months if they are available at all. Rather than wait that long, I came up with this modification of more readily available pads.

It sounds like my exact situation, and why I made this video! Thanks for watching!

This model only measures distance, not area or volume directly. However, when connected to the Mi Home app you can export measurements and draw floor plans on photos to calculate area manually. It doesn't calculate for you. The other meters I have reviewed do have area, volume and even pythagorean calculations, though they are not as compact. You can check out my playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLpT-y16F5TcMa5Vp0w1ZlXQYytqh0fGlc.html

I'm glad you found it helpful!

You are welcome, and thanks for watching!

I'm glad the tape worked for you. I think it's great stuff. I have only tried the Flex Seal spray once and I wasn't too impressed. It would take a lot of coats to match even ONE coat of the brush on liquid. However, if the place that needs patching would be difficult or impossible to reach with a brush, it might be worth a try.

Yeah, the dust container design could use some improvement! I wish I could post pictures, but I'll try to describe how it is attached. The container has raised tabs on the inside edges where the container meets the body of the sander. Those tabs engage with holes in the body to hold the container on. You can pull outward on the bottom of the sides and it should disengage. Those tabs will eventually not snap back into the holes, and that's where the rubber band trick I showed comes into play! Hope that helps!

I used a combination of a semi-circle blade and a 3/8" blade on my oscillating multitool. The semi-circle allowed me to cut the sides of the notch by using the sides of the blade since I had very little working room. Then I cut the bottom of the notch with the 3/8" narrow blade. It still doesn't make a perfectly clean cut due to the oscillating motion, but I patched up the cuts and now they look great. If you aren't sure of which blades I'm referring to, here's my Amazon link to the blade assortment set that I bought: amzn.to/3SF1XD7 Hope yours goes well, and I'd love to hear how it comes out!

I appreciate the suggestion, but I wouldn't recommend running your portable AC exhaust through a bath fan. It's a great question and a creative idea, but here's why it might not be good solution: The portable AC hose is 5 inches and the bath fan exhaust hose is 4 inches. Logically, this doesn't sound like a big difference, but there is a whopping 43% reduction in area! Then the additional length of the bath fan hose adds even more back pressure to the AC system. Making the AC motor work much harder than it was designed to do results in poor cooling efficiency AND the motor runs hot, shortening its lifespan. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and stay cool 😉

@@UnchartedDIY thank you for the thorough explanation!

👍👍

You are welcome. I couldn't find much either and figured that other people have broken cords on these shades, so I made this to help out. Thanks for watching!

@@UnchartedDIY Search engines always bring you to the small cords on the horizontal blinds.

It makes me happy to know it helped!

I'm glad it helped. As for loudness, this is one of the quieter ones of the 6 or 7 machines I have had direct experience with. I hope yours keeps you cool!

I don't know if they are all the same, but mine had rubber gaskets with a spring valve. If that plastic piece you found has the cross shape like the thumbnail image for my video, I would guess that's the inner part of the valve. If it is, you might be able to reinsert it. If not, the valve(s) probably need replacing.

@@UnchartedDIY The plastic piece is about 1" long notched at one end ,and with what appears to be a small rubber thick washer with a double forkish type end. I wish there was a way to send a pic here.

It also had a half inch spring on it's shaft

@@rdhawk777 I wish there was a way to post pictures too. From what you are describing, it sure sounds like a hot water or detergent tank valve. It might look different than the one that was on mine. I suggest finding your model number. I think it will be on the handle, either the back of it or behind the water tank. Look for replacement valves for that model and see if they look something like yours, keeping in mind that yours has probably come apart. I'd love it if you'd let me and the viewers that read these comments know what you find out. It might help other people since I'm only familiar with my model SteamVac 👍

@@UnchartedDIY model F5892-900