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Of course, the problem is getting a good one. They're now all third party as no longer available from Philips so cheap Chinese clones. Some work and some don't and even if they do work, reliability in the longer term is an issue. Not being critical though at all of the video as always love to see a good machine working again.

Hi hope you’re well, I have a similar problem with my technics su-a700, I can’t get any sound out of the speakers at all, but I can with headphones, the current drive light comes on put as soon as I turn it up in the headphones above 10 percent it cuts the light out and no sound in headphones?? Any advice would greatly appreciated

I have the CD 10 model which is the same except it has a SPDIF output on the back for a DAC connection. My player is well over 10 years old and this tray issue is just showing up now. Thanks for the video so I can tackle the problem myself.

Not manufactured as well as a turntable:(

Thanks for the video. I just got the same minidisc deck (the denon one) today with same error. Glad it can be fixed easily. However, I got one disc working, TOC reading is quite slow and shortly Laser made strange sounds during adjusting. Any advice on how to fix that? Btw. The technics deck looks very nice indeed and I am quite tempted. But the Denon m10 is from 2004, Technics‘ 501 is from 1998 - is the database is correct. So younger is better isn’t it? Again: thx for the video & keep em coming. Cheers!

8:32 - a "CD lens" in an MD drive?

I had a Sony Mini-Disc player. It started making a rattling sound as soon as it was switched on and would keep ejecting discs. I scrapped it in the end. Shame because Mini-Disc was a brilliant format. I even had one in my car until it got stolen. As a result of this video, I have just bought another deck off eBay in full working order for £115.

little tip is slide a paperclip onto ends of ribbon cables to give your fingers better purchase on them when pushing them back into their sockets reducing risk of slipping & bending them.

Pretty sure most MDs mini-systems (HiFi not walkman-style) I've had are direct-drive stepper motors with gears for eject - may be wrong but there's a lot of mechanical force involved during disc eject, more than I would have thought a belt could be relied on to apply, and the noise of soft-touch eject always sounds like a stepper to me.

Any idea why my same model cd player won't play until it warms up?

I am glad you (briefly) mentioned cleaning the lens. I have just fixed this exact model with the same problem, and *that was all it took* !! Anyone reading this: please *try cleaning the lens first* before carrying out anything more drastic like completely replacing the transport. I dread to think how many of these beautiful looking and sounding players have ended up in landfill because of a couple specks of dust on the laser! I found mine in the recycling bin with AC cord chopped off.. very glad to have saved it.

This worked well for me, thank you.

BRILIANT - FIXED IT THANK YOU

Thank you so much for this...had the exact same issue, ordered the part, followed your tutorial and my Marantz CD1020 is playing discs like new again :) Thank you!

This is the video I need, however, how did you get the disc out, I think that part was edit out? I cant remove the disc to change the belt?

Could you do a video on how to replace the laser diode in a Matsushita CR-571-B/CR-572-B CD-ROM drive?

hola, tengo el cambridge audio cd10 y la bandeja como que se atasca al salir, cómo puedo arreglarla? gracias

I failed to fix it. If you have this deck then try to get at the belt from the front slot first. ONLY if you can't then it looks pretty simple to lift up the lid as in the video. This is where I went wrong as the top came adrift. I then wrecked the floppy thing that sits atop of the disc. Game over. Solution was to buy a 2nd hand deck on eBay. This is a VERY FIDDLY JOB.

It seems you have eaten something delicious before recording the video 😋😋

You certainly got a bargain there as that deck looks pretty immaculate. Glad you emphasised how careful you need to be when you start lifting and prodding at the mechanism. I found that to my cost when I managed to somehow break the laser reader when I was replacing the belt on my JB 980. Worst thing was that I had done the belt and was just trying to fasten the thing up again. Sickener, but I somehow managed to find a whole replacement drive on ebay so it was then just removing one unit and replacing the whole thing. That was a few years back, and now the belt needs replacing again, so I will be very, very careful this time ! Good tip about maybe oiling the other bits you pointed out. Thanks very much and good luck! I expect you sold that deck pretty easily after the repair!

Great video, I’ll now try it on my JB-940 which plays, and does everything except eject the disc.

You can usually slice through the glue with a scaple or very thin and sharp knife blade the glue is there to prevent ent things coming lose during transit in containers from the far east so not really necessary to replace it 😀

Thanks man!!!

I wish this video was up when I did my JB940. I found the Sony service manual, and did it the hard way. a £3 belt did the job perfectly though.

It's very helpful. Thank you!

Absolutely superb tutorial. Fixed my CD63 for just over £13. You are a star sir, many thanks.

That thing was rubbish when it was new...75 dollars or pounds...good luck...lol.

I cant believe that cambridge audio could market a product that is obviously cheaply made. The profit margins must be enormous.

Thanks for the video . i have done similar repair on a NAD CD player and got the open close thing done , i am not a electronics person ,i thought i'd have a bash after watching YT vid several years ago .II got it working ok but upgraded to a audiolab 8300 3 years ago and gave the old NAD to the horse charity shop in Southend just this friday passed.

It's like that because it was contract manufactured in China - they're all like this. The connectors they use are really poor quality and I can only assume the good ones are very expensive as they all seem to just use goop to nail everything down rather than spend the money on better ones. It's a sure sign of crap in my experience.

The labelling on the button is accurate though. It says "Open Close" and that's precisely what it does.

I think the reason for the glue from the factory is to keep the connectors from coming loose during shipping and avoid initial returns or warranty repairs.

This looks extremly cheaply made. Don't know what the mrsp was, but it's not very impressive inside. Small transformer, etc. Nothing i'd buy.

Hi, Great explanation but sadly the volume pot is playing up on mine. Gently turning left to right by small margins there’s a bit of crackling until you get both channels working and it’s quiet happy until you want to alter the volume - repeat process. From this I assume the pot is worn in certain areas. How easy is it to get a replacement and to swap out? Cheers Steve

Hi I have a graphic equaliser on a Blaupunkt car radio which i bought off Ebay. The lights on the equaliser only move up and down if i have the volume quit high. I increased the gain dial at the back which improved it a little, but i would like the lights to move up and down when listening to it at normal volume. Any ideas. Thanks.

Wirings you has bad set. Toutch rezistors!

Technics!

Have the same Amp and one of my speaker output won't play, I hope your video help me solve the problem, and if it doesn't I thing will help many others, thanks for that step by step video love from Greece brother 👍🇬🇷

Do you know if this will be a similar process and part for the marantz CD-6005?

Iv broken 2 now trying to replace the rubber band on Sony long play mini disc players im gutted i have hundreds of mini discs to play and i can't use any mini disc as most my stuff is recorded on long play 20 years ago like a idiot 😢

Thanks. I'm hoping to be able to repair mine - exact same deck and exact same problem. Somebody on here said why bother ? I love the sound of my minidiscs and love this deck so am really hoping I can fix it.

Thanks for this video, may be in the next months i will do the same in my CD-43 Marantz.

Great job & great video👍

Hey Sonic Salvage. Have a 67SE that had the very issue described in this video. Ordered the new mechanism and followed your video. Same as a previous comment, this was the best “how to” video and was super simple to follow. I actually enjoyed the narrative as well, quite entertaining and thanks for not making it boring.

Great video thanks.

Absolute junk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great video, you took your time and got it done. I had a Sony MDS-JE520, purchased it from a guy for $50. Worked fine for a while, then it wouldn't turn on. Classic Sony issue. I am not a electronic guy, just know a bit to get buy. I never threw it away, i just kept it hoping one day i might get it to work or have it for spares. Then few months ago, i saw on Ebay a Sony JB920 Champaign Gold with the Original remote for sale by a Japanese seller for $250. I took a chance and ordered it. It works fine, however the display is sooo dim. I checked all the caps and the voltages and they are within the specs. I read that after sometime, the VFD just dies out and becomes dim. Never had that experienced in my life of VFD's. However, what i found was, most of the JE520 parts are compatible with the JB920, same mechanism, same VFD. Knowing how i hate to deal with old ribbon cables, i took a chance and replaced just the VFD segment from the 520 to 920. Many legs to de-solder and solder again. OMG, it works like a charm and bright as brand new. I even swapped the drive just to see if it would work, and it does, plays and records like brand new. Now i keep the mechanism as spares since the laser assembly and the write head assembly are hard to find these days. Just thought of sharing my story. Cheers.

Thanks

Nice

Such a cute dog