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Thanks for posting. My problem was that both the USB port for connecting to repetier server AND my SD mini card slot BOTH went kaput (attempting to resolver this week.... then if that fails I might need an SKR board) ....but I will look at those rods ....someone said on Tardigradeoutdoors site that they are soft steel not hardened so I'm curious what options exist to fully replace them with good quality rods ....orbit anyone has found another solution (linear rails)?

Stunning job. I have the same printer but rebranded as "maylan m200". I wanna make it silent as well

😅 basically how my revisit to 3D printing is going. 8 years later, and I finally have a practical use for them printing lug nut indicators, and air hose holders for my trucking company. But man, I was definitely laughing at my "mods."

someone knows what's the size of the out of the box nozzle included in the package? is it a 0.4?

Is the installation the same for the Spider Pro? I have a Sprite direct extruder, but I'm not sure if that will work with either the Spider V2 or the pro. I have no clue what to do with it now since I don't have a sprite hotend for it or any fans or anything like that. I really just wanted to print nylon, so I bought the Sprite extruder hotend set, but then realized I screwed up and only bought the extruder part (which at the time was only $1 less than the entire setup that I meant to buy). Now I'm considering buying the Spider V2 Pro, but I'm not exactly sure of everything I'll need. (and I still have to learn how to upgrade the firmware).

Do you have info on which hotends I can use with my Ender 3 Neo? Can't seem to find a definitive compatibility list.

Doing the same to mine right now except adding in an SKR Mini v3 board and a T8 lead screw.

Under $30, but how many hours?

converted my old one to a laser engraver . super EZ swap and absolutely amazing accuracy even at extreme high speeds (25000mm per min) due to the stiffness and lack of play in the carriage only drawback is the small bed size .

why would you put thermal grease on something meant to get hot ... ?? I understand the heat break but the hotend ? makes no sense.

cmon man we want the top speed!!! lol get someone else to run it?

Hi there, this is Harvey from PCBWay and we really liked your videos, do u think there will be a chance to work together?

What tl smoothers did you use for the x and y? Thanks I am wanting to revive my v1

When is the next video! missing the content!

I’m trying to bring to life a Monoprice Select Mini Pro for my granddaughter, but I still can’t figure out why the Z axis is not responding. You seem to know a lot about this old printer from your video, any suggestions? Thanks

I have several of these and also the model with and internal power supply without a heated bed. New Marlin code works great on them giving it thermal runaway protection, the chance to put on an ABL probe and it increases the readable SD card size to 32Gig. Also, they print more reliably with a geared Titan clone extruder and Capricorn tubing.

You are absolutely correct, it is very difficult to find any review about this hotend online. I am looking for an upgrade for my Ender 3 V2 neo, so I am also thinking about this one. The only thing that concerns me is the nozzle size. Is possible for you to confirm whether we can use the standard MK6 nozzle with this one ?

I have been experiencing what I think to be thermal runaway with my Spider V2 hotend. Do you think disassembling and applying thermal paste to the heat break would help?

This looks soooo cool

after 7 mounts can you give us an update?

I found this product new on offerup for $20 have yet to install it because my hot end is still working fine. I'm still new to this though, trying to get into ABS with issues but I think i'll get it. Anyway my question is about the fans you removed originally to install it. You never needed to put those back on?

ExpressLRS would solve your range issues.

that sound is nothing close to any animal dying lol just sounds like what it is

Neat project and good video production. Curious to see where you go with this. :)

Woooo, one of my favorite series on TH-cam. Glad to see another video!

9:31 spray painting while wearing a white shirt, brave man! :D Loved to see all the trials and failures. That is what engineering is about. And also I appreciate gathering data in a controlled environment. Are you going to put some grills at the inlets to prevent weeds from getting into it?

What thermistor did you get? I got the Spider v2 from the creality website, but I'm not comfortable with the original thermistor setup just kind hanging out in there.

been watching your videos for a while now and i just wanted to let you know that i look forward to watching every video and the creative/engineering process that goes behind every decision. Thanks for sharing!

Boat looks sick, check the one i made for my last year of highschool project were I built a Prusa MK2S kit and built the boat, it was overheating the ESC in a matter of seconds because of really high amp motor without cooling since they were meant for a rc car and at the time we didn't have any watercooled motor/esc combo sold by a local shop. It had reverse steering using a drop down bucket system on the jet. I still want to build another one for me since this one stayed at the school. This was in 2017/2018 i think. th-cam.com/video/Vq4V5ILlNmE/w-d-xo.html

nice boat!

very cool to see you back at this project. The upgrades look great, and I'm definitely curious to see how different impellers will perform under the new motors. Perhaps the issue with the thicker impellers failing is overloading at the joint between the axle and the blade, that's where the stress would be the highest. A sharp corner there would make it likely to crack, so maybe adding a fillet around the base of the blades could make them more sturdy? Or perhaps also using a more flexible engineering type resin for your printer.

You could use ExpressLRS 2,4Gz for a good connection

upgrades are 10/10 for the looks, still think it could use some beans tho.

amazing build series

hey bro, love the project. i am trying to make my own electric skateboard and I am interested in those PUAIDA motors. Do you know if the controller you use with the orange hub motors in the first 2 parts of the build is compatible with the PUAIDA motors?

lol i tought your wheels were 90mm from the very beginning, those motors were small! not sure where you live but it's usually faster and cheaper to source complete second hand e-sk8 and then strip the parts than to buy from China. the random amazon crap is usually the same as you got, mostly rebranded ling yi products (your old remote probably pairs to the new esc too). they have some with FOC now but the safe choice is still hobbywing unless you go all in with a vesc-based solution.

Suggestion: You can make like a grill/mesh from abs, a middle ring made of tpu with spikes/protuberances who pop out from the said mesh and an inner abs ring to hold everything into place and make good contact with the motor.

outstanding job with this video. i am very farmiliar with this stuff and just wanted to get some knowledge with the spider hotend. thanks!

another piece of crap. mine spends more time clogged than melting plastic. this is my second and last piece of crap from creality - their sprite extruder is the same way

Use the magnets as electric contacts for the cooling fans so the lid and motors are completely removable.

Hi Dear, Do you have any plans to do a Review for Creality Spider 4.0 Ceramics Hotend? We can provide the sample.

Where is continue? )

Im getting a couple spiders very soon! I cannot wait to give them a try. I'm getting the high flow.

I think everyone jumped on the bandwagon of "only can print in PLA" too much. A simple Bowden tube change will allow the use of PETG and ABS. I have had no issues with Capricorn tubes and the stock OEM heating end. It also looks like this hot end and the V3 all use a new proprietary nozzle that is much more expensive than the old standby ones. Thats a also a cot consideration to think about.

The V3 is out though, should review that next

I think someone in production stuffed up, if you look at the renders the wires are on the opposite side. I just installed the same hotend. I finished up cutting a bigger opening at the top to stop the wires rubbing against the edge. Prints seem really clean now and I look forward to overhauling the hotend every month

I believe the problem with the microswiss is due to the degredation of ptfe tube over time. There should not be any gap between the heatbreak and the ptfe tube. When there is a gap you would encounter clogs after retraction. Just installing a new ptfe tube with attention to leaving no gap would probably solve the problem of microswiss. The gap may also be the result of tube fittings which are not functioning properly.

One cheap alternative I went for for my Ender was the slice engineering bi metal heartbreak. You can buy just the heartbreak and install that. That will give you a reliable all metal hotend for printing spicier materials

hi, ur videos in 360p

nice, i love it that you give it new live instead of throwing it away