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Hello, I use an ESP32 with PSRAM (specifically ESP32-S3 N16R8) and modified software with a newer I2S audio library. Connection of components is standard.

Hi, for bed leveling I use the Marlin function "Corner Leveling": marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#corner-leveling Used display: aliexpress.com/item/1005002810120014.html I purchased the following STL files from the author of this modification: www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-anycubic-chiron-12864-lcd-case-stl-download/ www.th3dstudio.com/product/anycubic-chiron-lcd-conversion-accessory-parts-stl-download/ I slightly modified this firmware: www.th3dstudio.com/hc/downloads/unified-2-firmware/anycubic/anycubic-chiron-firmware-trigorilla-board/

www.thingiverse.com/thing:2345881

it dont work no matter what ou do.

What program do you use on your pc to make gcode?

Hello, I think it will work. To increase accuracy, it is necessary to ensure that the sensor tip has the most accurate guidance in the sensor body.

@@tom-hb8rz Hello: ok, it's true. The problem is that if I make it very fair, the tip sometimes gets stuck. She was thinking of making him a bronze bushing. What do you think? Thanks

@@juancarlos3989 Hello, I think that using a bronze bushing will increase the accuracy of the sensor.

@@tom-hb8rz ok amigo: 👍 tanyou🖐

This is probably a hotend issue. I recommend revising it. I use the default setting for a direct extruder.

Hello, please see this page: hotends.dozuki.com/Wiki/TouchMI_Sensor%28EN%29

@@tom-hb8rzBest regards, thanks.

I use standard parameters. Basically the same as the profile settings in the latest version of Cura Ultimaker.

@@tom-hb8rz I print with a 0.3 to 190 temperature nozzle and it starts to print and after a while it makes a continuous sound and the filament gets stuck

@@gastoncorradi Increase the hotend temperature, but probably is it a hotend problem. Make the "Creality Hotend Fix": www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

I'm sorry, I can't provide STL files and other information because it's a copy of a commercially sold product: www.hotends.fr/fr/accessoires/64-capteur-auto-leveling-touch-mi.html

@@tom-hb8rz Thanks - how does it work?

@@missingpunctuation The principle of the sensor function is documented in the following video: th-cam.com/video/E7Ik9PbKPl0/w-d-xo.htmlm27s

Hello, I modified some of these parts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:989245 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1974194 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1217999

I'm sorry, I can't provide STL files and other information because it's a copy of a commercially sold product: www.hotends.fr/fr/accessoires/64-capteur-auto-leveling-touch-mi.html

it's slightly modified version of the examples included with adafruits neopixel library

After appropriate modification of the firmware (Marlin), two fan control outputs can be used. See wiring picture at: photos.app.goo.gl/M4MTQ7fToAqFzZSDA

After appropriate modification of the firmware (Marlin), two fan control outputs can be used. See wiring picture at: photos.app.goo.gl/M4MTQ7fToAqFzZSDA

Dakujem. Pouzil som instrumentalnu skladbu Jingle Bells v interpretacii E's Jammy Jams. Vyuzil som pritom moznost pouzit "podmaz" z bezplatnej youtube audio kniznice :)

Dakujem :)

You need calibrate the stepper motors: all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/

thank's for reply, i will take a look

It's best to go on a Facebook support group and show them what your print looks like; some responders will troll but others will point out what setting isn't good enough. First off you must ensure that you use G-code variant Marlin, not Marlin (Volumetric), you calibrate extruder steps as the setting on kit printers is usually wrong (see numerous TH-cam videos for explanation), and you make sure filament diameter is set to 1.75mm in Cura, otherwise the defaults are fine and anything you can set is more or less OK. Unless your printer has mechanical issues, you are guaranteed to have a half way decent print with just these settings regardless of all the other ones. Additionally, please reduce retraction distance in Cura, by default it's 6mm, which is fine for a Bowden printer, but on a direct extrusion assembly, a suitable range is between 0.5mm and 2mm, never more than 2mm. A common non-obvious mechanical issue on a Geeetech is that the spring tension in the extruder is insufficient and it underextrudes, as the filament slips back on the extruder gear, which is also on Geeetech a piece of pinion wire rather than a hobbed gear, so yes a steel MK7 gear can prove to be a better substitute but unless yours looks too worn, don't worry about ityet. The spring tension reduction occurs with time, originally as-shipped my Geeetech extruded OK, but with time, the spring permanently compressed somewhat and lost tension, but since the extruder came preassembled, the same would have happened in storage. It's not completely relaxed but no longer presses down hard enough. Do not try to compensate it in software, it's not going to do you much good. Print a spring shim from Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits. I have a custom extruder lever i'm testing right now, unfortunately model had issues AND i threw away the file i had printed, making changes afterewards, alongside with sanding down and cutting on the print, but i'm not entirely sure that the changes i made on the 3D file are the same as the changes i made on the print, anyway the purpose of that is that it adds a spring preload adjustment screw to the lever.

tom 666 2 years ago I modified and then printed the parts available on thingiverse. For example: www.thingiverse.com/thing:989245 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1974194 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1217999 Show less

@@twoseventhree thanks

Super

I'm sorry, but I don't own this printer anymore. But I think I used a 40mm screw.

You can find some details in the photos here: photos.app.goo.gl/FUxrNpC2xSJxgDbs1

I added the info. See the text below the video.

hackaday.io/project/11570-wifi-webradio-on-esp8266-or-esp32

Cooling fan is connected to the PWM output of the GT2560 board and functionality is conditioned by the correct firmware settings. Control is possible with any slicer software.

You must first of all correctly build this 3D printer kit! Only after then you can make relevant modifications to improve quality of 3D printing :)

For example: www.ebay.com/itm/391330018866

I modified this design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1708363 But I recommend this variant of cooling: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1974194 I used it with a small modification for the next printer: th-cam.com/video/sMD-ypNqfKk/w-d-xo.html

I modified and then printed the parts available on thingiverse. For example: www.thingiverse.com/thing:989245 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1974194 www.thingiverse.com/thing:1217999

Thanks for the videos , The x parts are no the same can you share you designs ?

Because on the side with the copper traces (heat source and my top side now) is a faster temperature rise. The temperature was measured on the surface of the glass.

tom 666 thanks man you are a pro, gonna rotate mine too