วีดีโอ

Been looking at a lightweight chassis style hunting rifle for deer for 400 yards and in. Sounds like the sig is the ticket.

All my ratchets are Snap-On NON-locking flex head. 3 total, 1/2, 3/8 & 1/4. I work on cars everyday, but *barely* use them. When I do, I use the 3/8 the most. I find myself more often than not using battery powered tools, wrenches or crows feet in most situations. When a large bolt is seriously stuck, I don't even attempt to use the half inch. I use a 3 foot breaker bar instead. All-in-all, I don't think ratchets are nearly as important as they used to be.

Got lucky with my waypoint. Shoots 1/4 moa with berger 135s Love the way the agc stock fits me like a glove. I also prefer a more traditional stock.

Just ordered one and wondering two things if you might know...? One, what brand of batts do you run if you run non-rechargeable? I ask because I've had trouble with multiple brands corroding and damaging my lights. Granted, I've never owned a Surefire and the one I just ordered is my first, so maybe it's a cheaper quality light that is the problem. Something to keep in mind is I live in the desert where temps are usually over 100F and do get as high as 125F in July, Aug, so it's possible the batts are having trouble with the heat. Second question is, do you have trouble running your light that close to the can? Thanks for the vid and info!

The choice of screwdrivers depends on the application. You DO NOT want to use any of these full tang drivers for electrical work, nor do you want to use them to reform a damaged screw. The full tang drivers are for breaking heavily rusted fasteners loose using an 'impact' like whack from a hammer, not to re-shape fasteners...better yet, Vessel makes their "Impacta" screwdrivers with the JIS (Phillips like) tips that rotate the shank twelve degrees to back off a 'Philips type' fastener when struck by a hammer on the end cap. For automotive work, the Vessels are my favourite...I really like the added weight in the hand, and the bolster for applying extra torque, as well as the round shanks for gripping and guiding the tool. I don't personally like hex shank drivers, although they do sometimes come in handy if the driver doesn't have a bolster on it, like the Milwaukees. I'm not a fan of the Wera handle shape, nor do I like the oversized 'Tri-lobe' on the Milwaukee drivers, plus it's cheaper feeling, non-grippy handles. Assuming you're getting good German steel, or equivalent with the Wiha drivers, you probably can't go too wrong, and the extra two drivers in larger sizes is a definite plus ...BUT, here in Canada, I can order the full tang Vessel 8 pc. set as well as the 8 pc. Vessel 'Impacta' set and still have a few bucks left over to put towards a larger size slotted driver. As an aside, I don't know that JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) tips are actually a thing...I believe it's just something that got lost in translation over the years and became an 'Urban Legend'. I think it's actually just Japan's equivalent industrial to America's ISO standards, and that their 'CROSS' shaped tips are simply made better...even better than the Phillips tips on my Klein drivers. Over the years I've ground the tip back a little on most of my Phillips drivers so that they don't bottom out on cheaper screws and have found this to be a significant improvement.

Sw looks way better!

I will never touch a decent car with those Milwaukee ever again. All marred up, just ruined every bolt, I mean I stopped before, the GW has been fantastic , except the spline 120xp is not very confidence inspiring, if they were 90T spline, it would be a home run. I have 15 sets they're all 12pt, I wish I could find nice spline wrenches. Don't like the Matco or 120xp. Too fragile, two 60t gears , ONE pawl and when one gear ⚙️ doesn't jive with the other gear the wrench is busted! Give me a 90T , bc I really like the spline, and they ask a fortune for these with no features, not even a directional arrow.

Canik isTurkish rubbish

Very well done video! Great stuff. I own a mk18 and a Wilson combat recon tactical. I’m going to be purchasing a huxwrx flow 762 ti to swap between them both

I can't find the SATA 120 XP on Amazon anymore. I had to buy the 72 tooth

Im going back and front between 4 inch and 6 inch Which one can you recommend for me? Thx a million

I have been shooting M&P"s way back with the 1.0's i chose the polmer 2.0 5 " over the metal frame & never looked back!

Even the SCS doesn't co-witness at all so it's not possible really

درسال چند تولید شده

yeah, bought the waypoint. Did the fluted barrel and the adjustable cheek rest. 6,5 Creed. Thanks for the details on the Christianson arms and Cross rifles.

Looking at a MPR on gunbroker in 7PRC bidding for 1100usd. I’m going to pass. Don’t trust Christensen too many reviews about poor QC and buying used is even more scary

What plate do you have?

5:23 to add to that, you can also adjust the cant of the butt pad on the cross. Take the length of pull all the way out, and on the front side of the butt pad you’ll see 2 screws, you loosen those to cant the butt pad. After I got my cross, I thought I would’ve still have preferred to get the Q Fix, but I’ve come to really appreciate the aics mags over sr25 mags and really love the tool less adjustability of the stock (besides the butt pad cant) but I’m never gonna use that anyway

I install the Vickers Tango Down trigger on all of my Glocks. One of the best aftermarket triggers out there IMO. Give it a try.

Great review, thanks for taking the time to record

with a minus connector, i found the gpt breaks way smoother than the stock trigger .. in fact, the red dot rarely moves when it breaks .. competition wise, it's a huge improvement from the stock trigger .. but that's only me 😊

One good thing about the Springfield is I think that it can be moved into a 700 chassis... I really want to pick up a Waypoint with adjustable cheek piece

Cant even be mad, i want the m&p but seeing this hurts my soul haha

Do you know if it's possible to change the setting to get the range measurements in metres rather than yards?

I mean, what else would a big knife be useful for if not to chop through thick branches and process game?? If a knife can't do any of that, then I would hang up my knife collecting as a hobby and take up knitting! This is why I collect certain knives because I'm very impressed by the quality and heat treat of the steel, aside from it's obvious usefulness. But had Ontario kept the RTAKII in 1095, IO believe it would blow the BK9 and ESEE Junglas out of the water. I don't know what those guys over at OKC were thinking. They change the blade steel on all their knives without saying a single word, jack up the price, and expect their knives to perform even better but are in fact, inferior. I've had SZCO & Mtech knives that performed better than a lot of OKC knives. They ruined their legacy using junk steel & grinds on their blades. Sad really.

Thank you!

I've been running a Sig for several months and at first, the accuracy was exactly as you describe. Somewhere between 250 and 300 rounds, something amazing happened. It starting shooting bug holes with factory Hornady 140 grain American gunner ammo. Far and away the most accurate rifle I've shot and it does it consistently now. I have never cleaned the thing either. Also, as for the loose stock, I experienced that as well but a little Loc-Tite and a bit of torque and it is nice and solid. Great video by the way. Well thought out observations. Oh and you might want to edit the title of the video... "Christiansen" as opposed to "Christian" make a little difference. LOL

I have near zero use for spline drive. I do suspect Milwaukee is probably a better quality wrench while I suspect the open end of the Gearwrench is less likely to mar the head of a fastener and thusly invite rust or corrosion after the fact.

The Milwaukee holder is made for a packout

Ho provato la versione con canna da 4", che è più maneggevole, più bilanciato e meno pesante della versione da 6", anche se inevitabilmente un po' meno preciso. Ottime prestazioni comunque e sempre grande affidabilità. Un pezzo che il collezionista deve per forza avere

🅱️ainted carbon fiber is a serious flex so based

literally everyone I know that has a SW had to send it in. Don't get me wrong, I love them, they are what they are, but yeah. There is no quality control in my personal experience.

Where did you find the ones in black or darker crome finish?

One of my favorite firearms.

Solid work. Not being at all critical, but just chipping in on engineering, which I'll explain if needed. Idea that thicker on open end for a reason I think plausible, but my gut is that it works in bending moment opposite of what you suggested. More torque can be applied on open end, then perhaps weaker ratcheting end.

I love the video great video but I would never trade my glock in for a Canik

I am a lefty ?..Who makes the best 22 for me?

Love the Mask. Built like a tank, easy to disassemble and clean but is on the heavy side.

It’s not a $3,000 competition gun it’s a $1,000 gun that’s pretty competitive so for starting out and not spending thousands yes nice rig

I bought a Sigcross over a year ago and it's not all that for the money. I'm more happy with my HOWA's

That stock is terrible. I could literally get it to bend with one finger.

I got the Cross in .308 for $1450. The best it shoots is 1.5 Moa with my 168 handloads ive tried everything and im thinking about rebarreling to another caliber but I really like the gun itself. I did go back and forth on the Christensen but with everything I've heard QC wise plus 2/3 friends with problem Christensens I really didn't want to roll the dice. If u wanted to go Springfield i would just buy another T3X Ember

Thanks for posting. I just sent mine back for the same reason yesterday. 4.9.24. Hopefully I will get the same results you got!

We have very similar rifle interests. Thanks for the info! I can't get over how handy and small the Cross is. Really like it's aesthetics

Canik has been so aggressive in making improvements and they are getting the respect they deserve. I bought a Canik SFElite loved it so much I sold a HK and Smith and Wesson to buy two more Caniks. Great handguns.

I'm currently trying to decide between a Kidd build and a Volquartsen build. Thank you for making this video. It helps!

I have a Christensen Arms MPR in 338 LAPUA. With most factory ammunition it shot 1-1/2 to two inch groups. However with 247 grain Ruag Swiss P Ammunition it shoots 1/2” to 3/4” groups. I have worked up several hand loads with 270 grain ELD-X 270 grain and also Lapua 300 grain OTM Scenar and even Nosler 300 grain RDF. All of these hand loads consistently shoot sub 1/2” MOA.

I’ve decided I’m going with the Accu-Tac. Now….. how do I figure out which height to get? I have a Magpul Bipod I’m replacing. Gun is for precision shooting. Bench and prone. Eventually I may get into PRS events.

THIS HAS TO BE THE BIGGEST HATER OR SOMETHING, THIS GUN OUT GUNS TBE CANIK WHICH ALREADY OUT GUNS THE WALTER. SORRY I SHOT ALL 3, I SHOT 3 DIFFERENT TYPES OF CANIKS AND THE WALTER PDP WHICH WAS MY SECOND OPTION TO BUY… THE COMPETITOR SHOOTS SOOOO MUCH BETTER THAN THE CANIK SPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO TRIGGERS. Crazy man I’m truly disappointed in ur opinion. But hey to each their own lol. The grip feels amazing he is right it is loose on the front of the grip but once u grab it u don’t feel. It shot completely flat smooth easy and as accurate as my ar.

Thank you for officially convincing me not to get the competitor!!! And you emphatically convinced me to purchase the CANIK RIVAL SFX S!!!👍👍👍