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@piotrkotecki4912 worth is a matter of opinion . In this situation, it cost the customer 2k to replace the battery.

@markiki773 I searched eBay. Another good option is car-part.com, this site shows junk yards around the country.

I am working on finalizing everything with it now. Trying to get all the wiring and programming videos finished up so I can upload them. I was hoping to be done but I haven't been able to finish the editing yet.

Glad I could help.

@terrypohl8665 there is the blue colored clip that you need to push together on the open end and once you push the end together that clip will be able to come out of the line releasing the line from the canister.

@MarkJosephMendoza-o6d working on part two now. Should be uploaded this week.

Yes, it should bolt up and work without issues.

@DieselBear no, I did not. That's a controversial question. Some people say you need to loosen it and some people say you don't. Me personally, I do not open the bleeder screw. It opens the system up for contamination, in my opinion.

Very patiently with a ratcheting wrench. You could take off that lower bar and get a socket in there but I opted to just use a wrench.

@valeriechilders6646 glad I could help.

@m.7n6 yeah, that's a classic sign you need to replace this cannister and clean out the vent line at the filler.

@@fdeeves5360 you can use other year batteries. I do not know of any. If you make it to iowa. We can help you.

@@LowLifeAntics hypothetically for how much? my local people down south are charging a ridiculous amount of money in a quote for a battery replacement

@@ESGamingCentral we typically charge between 800-1200 plus the cost of the battery. Used they run between 500-1200. If it doesn't take too long, labor is obviously adjusted appropriately.

@@LowLifeAntics 🙏. I have a 2014 which works but it’s good to know that this kind of services exist. I’ll reach out if I need you.

@@ESGamingCentral we are always here

A lot of people forget to reset those things until they get the notification to change it.

@apollo9694 you can do it if you have the right software and cable/reader. If not, then yes, a dealer/service center would have to program it.

@@LowLifeAntics thanks for the response! What software and cable/reader? Would a VCX nano be able to do it with the ACdelco TDS software, or would I need one of the insanely expensive OBD tools?

@@apollo9694 that might work. We used a VCX Nano and GM GDS2 and a sps subscription.

@@LowLifeAntics Thanks again. Its good to hear what definitively works.

@@apollo9694 no problem. Happy to help.

Time to start swapping.

@RosettaPerkins-x9b if your brake is dragging, I would get rotors.

@@masselon2 check the wires. Chances are, they are burnt at or by the motor.

Using the GM DEX Cool you should be good. The same coolant is used in both the Electronics and the engine. I would recommend using the GM stuff but the Aftermarket should be fine as well, as long as you didn't add any water to it and you purchased the pre diluted stuff.

@@LowLifeAntics I may need to drop the coolant then. If I remember correctly, I typically use concentrate to save money and dilute with distilled water from the grocery store.

@rotaryperfection yeah, drop it. You can't use distilled water in the Electronic side.

@@LowLifeAntics 10-4.

@@Amberbaer469npa what do you mean on the absolute back of the bumper? This is for the front bumper cover. There's 4 sensors. 2 on either side, all of which can be accessed via the wheel wells.

@@z.reesedowning9043 what year?

@@LowLifeAntics 2020 Explorer XLT

@@z.reesedowning9043 www.ebay.com/itm/256232167490?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7ppu_gAgR8a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=45uhp0gDQk6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@z.reesedowning9043 those should work

@@BubbleBrosDetailing appreciate you!

@alaskaforest no, that is not required or recommended. The force the brake pedal puts out is exponentially more than it takes to push the piston back in. Pushing the piston back in will not create leaks in a properly maintained brake system unless there is brake line corrosion. One think you do, do when removing the brake cap is introducing moisture into the system. This could actually cause more issues than you are solving.

@@LowLifeAntics Thank-you for the information; I'm grateful to learn and appreciate the response. Yet, I remain confused since the brake fluid in the system has to be pushed SOMEWHERE when the caliper piston is compressed?

@benwsko Thank you. Yeah, it's super common and no one seems to make the actual repair parts for these, however it seems as that section is almost identical to an fj. I didn't repair this one because, it was rusted through from the hitch mount to under the drivers door. The hitch itself was fine but the steel under it was gone.

@seanm252 I did not. Once I replaced the bad one it went off and all was good.

@nwbearcats98 yeah, there is a goofy "quick" connect clip on the lines. They suck pretty badly. I believe those ones, you push in the little box on the one end. It helps to push the connector on farther as you try to release it.

The replacement battery was used and cost about 1k. All in all, it took a few hours.

Hahahaha

1997.

@@LowLifeAntics Are you planning on replacing the bad parts in the old one yourself? That is what I did with the transfer case in my 2003 Silverado. It is always nice to have a spare transmission and transfer case in the shed when you run older vehicles.

@MyLifeThai371 that was the original plan, but I traded this truck for a 70 c10.

Thank you

Haha, my bad. If it's never been off before, it could be stuck. There is no oil in there. If you ha e a rubber mallet, you can tap it with that. There should be a couple of pins it seats into, and there can be corrosion on there that's holding it together as well.

@@LowLifeAntics thanks. I got it. A really good seal and a tiny bit of corrosion around the pins. I managed to pop it loose by tugging gently from the plug hole that's in the side. Then put a small screw driver in the middle and pushed on the left side to pop it off the pins. There was definitely oil in there so maybe that's part of my problem.

@minerMoe that can definitely be part of the problem. The crank seal is a problem. They are cheap replace it.

@@LowLifeAntics is that what would do this? I was wondering if someone may have put oil in that cap. It is right above the dipstick after all.

@@minerMoe how much oil was in there? There will be a little. Shouldn't be a ton.

You will need some tools to get in there.

I got one with p1e98 code for cell balancing module 2. What can I try ?

That wasn't the issue with this car, it had a weak cell in battery segment 3 that would put the car into limp mode once it's range was under 4 miles. It ran indefinitely in if you put it into mountain mode before that point and charged without issue. The coolant sensor was the first thing checked since it's not a secret. Case in point, it's still using it's battery coolant level sensor in the proper location with the "new" battery, no issue. If you want to accuse people of having no idea what they're doing, you might want all the details first.

Omg that is exactly my issue on my 2012 dealer said replace battery $20,000 I laughed and left

How can I get help in Houston? Dealership told me new battery $20,000 with a smile. Tried greentec and they came out with an obd plug and an app on their phone and said they couldn’t do anything. Tried a few mobile electric techs not one has made it to my house. Dealership reset engine light car drove till it switched to gas and on came the light again after turning it off it won’t move anymore just initializes

We can't travel to you however you are welcome to come this way. We can try to source a battery for you.

I actually made a panel to cover it. I cut up a car in the junk yard for the sheet metal i needed. Yeah, you don't have many options in your situation.

Damn.. thats a lot of miles on that clutch!

@@LowLifeAntics it had 35 mile when I got it! I had a fault on my thermostat a few weeks back. They were surprised I still have the original in. I've always said if I could buy any car I want I'd get a 16 spark, manual, again. It's been very good for us. Unfortunately my clutch started slipping while in line to get my girls from school. I'm a lil frustrated 🥴

@kurtallencomedy yesh, thats a bad time for it to start slipping. I loved my spark and I regret selling it! I m8ght buy another one.

​@@LowLifeAntics 7 months ago when I left this comment, I ended up ordering a shifter cable bushing from Walmart for 9 dollars and 6 cent. Replaced it myself with a lil help from a friend. It got me to 269,006 miles and finally having the clutch replaced today. My clutch cylinder started leaking and they are putting in a new flywheel. See if I can get more miles out of it. I know struts and shocks are definitely next. Still has the original thermostat lol

@kurtallencomedy these are rock solid little cars!

I'd pull the fill hose and fosh that little flap out also.

@@LowLifeAntics yeah I'll check and see it's that down there

We are trading ours in also. For a Toyota 😆

You can just clean it, but parts are readily available on eBay or Amazon.

Chances are the slide pin is spinning. You can hold it by the boot with a wrench of a pair of pliers. Try that. It's pretty common for that to just spin.

I appreciate your feedback. These can get packed full of dust and crap.

Yes, it is.

The trap door was done 20 years ago. About 75% of people do it this way. Is it the right way.... Not at all. Would I do it again..... no, I would not, but as a kid, you do stupid shit.

Yeah, it's the midwest. Salt and brine on the roads.

@@LowLifeAntics Yep I know how it is around St. Louis in the winter! I have a 2014 Dodge Dart that I have enjoyed for a few years now! Thanks for the video.

@@johnbeckham1483 it's definitely been a decent vehicle!

The battery is very heavy. They are around 400lbs so be careful when removing it. Make sure the car is high enough off the ground and properly support the battery. You can use an atv jack with some boards or a couple floor jacks.

You don't need a battery wait till summer and it will be like new again, they all get about one third less distance on a charge in the winter.

@portagepete1 That's not how it works when cells are bad......

It 100% is the weak link!

eh I disagree. if it was "the weak link" you wouldnt find any of them in junk yards. like 2015 honda civic CVT's. the weak link, every junkyard that has one is missing its CVT. the remaining CVTs that are pulled out of wrecked cars are all on ebay for 4x regular price you would expect. the fact that you can find them in the junk yard at all and for 500-1000$ should tell you something

@vevenaneathna I would disagree with you. The fact you can find them doesn't mean they are not the weak link. What makes them the weak link is the lack of range. The battery is good. The range sucks and makes it a weak link.

@@LowLifeAntics hmm maybe i misunderstood what you and browngreen933 were talking about. imo theres nothing wrong with the range since the car is keeping the top 15% and bottom 30% of the battery in reserve to avoid damage. thats what every EV should do. in about 95% of cases, when someone would need to use more than the 45 mile battery range, youre essentially talking about DC fast charging territory if you didnt have the gas motor... and doing the math at the DC fast chargers around me, theyre about 5-6$/gallon equivalent. so when a tesla with a big battery might be paying 6$/gal at the super charger and waiting in line for an hour, youre paying 3$/gal at any pump. the electric motors in the 1st gen volt are sized and wound to basically only be for city driving anyways. its actually a resell bonus to know the car has never been dc fast charged, and to know the battery was never allowed to be discharged past 30% because of the motor. technically the 1st gen volt has a ~60 mile battery in it.

@vevenaneathna you are misunderstanding me. I am in no way hating on the volt or the design of the car/ev system. The car itself is great. However, I personally think the range is the weak link because the average consumer misunderstands the design and purpose of the vehicle. This is just my personal opinion.

Glad I could help! It took me a while to track it down!

Interesting, I didn't know they had the cable overseas.

Grab it and pull. It just pops off.

Grab it and pull. It just pops off.

Thanks, thought so but was afraid I would just break it