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Yeah they came with it. If memory serves, the ones I that came off with the old tensioner did look completely fine. I could see you reusing them in off chance that the tensioner you get doesn't include them. But I'm pretty sure they all come with new ones no matter what brand you get.

@@chilledspeed thanks man 👍

Awesome! That's why I like making these videos. One note about the shock dust boots that I've discovered in the months since I did this. The ones for those Konis don't seem to want to stay attached to the bump stop even though they're supposed to. I just recently resorted to using a zip tie around the top of them. Seems to be holding on a lot better so far. Just something to keep an eye on if you're using aftermarket shocks. The oem dust boots were way tighter and never fell off.

I think this makes the most sense. Because I also have the notorious upper timing chain cover oil leak because of a bad PCV valve. That oil has probably slowly dripped down to the gasket on the water pump causing it to swell and fail (and most likely the intake manifold gasket too).

this was in a 2016 chevy colorado and i found the issue around the coolant reservoir and the hoses where smaller it wasnt like upper or lower engine ones

Thanks for the tip. I'll check the hoses next. I sure hope it's that simple because the coolant pump on these 2.0T GTIs is one of the most inaccessible parts of the whole engine ha.

@ yea i feel you my step dad has been buying them the past 13 years i had to do the water pump on mine also at a separate time at 275k just bc hella miles 🤣

Hey thanks, I'll definitely check that out! It would a relief if my issue turned out to be as simple as that. Which hose in particular are you referring to again? And was the car you were working an older model like mine or a newer model? Mine is a 2012 and this is the first time it has ever leaked like this.

Technically, yes. The four torx screws that are in the bottom of that shroud are the ones for the belly pan. So you could either leave the belly pan slid into the bumper just hanging there (if memory serves that's what I did) or you could take it all the way out. In that case, that would be two things removed. One other thought: The main reason I removed the wheel was for better camera angles. Not sure if this will work, but you might be able to get away leaving it on if you wanted to try to streamline the process even further.

Brembo NAO ceramic pads. Part #P85075N. I ordered them from Tire Rack.

@chilledspeed what's the difference between Brembo P85146N Premium NAO Ceramic OE and the ones u use the P85075N

I’ll be honest with you…I couldn’t tell ya ha. They look identical to me. The P85146N may be an updated model of the same pad or something like that because I just searched the Brembo website and the P85075N part number didn’t show up anymore but P85146N did. The ones that I got were the only option from Brembo that Tire Rack offered at the time that I ordered them.

Because those bolts are "torque to yield" bolts or TTY bolts. They're designed to be tightened to the point where they actually stretch a little. Supposedly they give more consistent and more reliable clamping force for certain parts (some suspension components use them too). But the fact that they stretch a little means that you're not supposed to reuse them because they are considered compromised at that point. If you tried to reuse them they could strip and fail too easily. FYI the front calipers don't have them. The fronts used traditional bolts.

@ ahh okay that makes sense, thanks!

No problem!

It should just slide through, although it's designed to be a tight fit so you might have to jossle it back and forth while you're pushing it to get it to click back in. Something else that might help is making sure the cable isn't clipped into that black plastic clip further down the cable. (you see me pop it into place at the very end of the short). I found that it makes the process easier if I do that last.

Thank you! That's really nice to hear.

You would have to see it in person to understand

Darn it ha. I knew people would eventually make comments about that. Rest assured they have been replaced.

It's not just about the scenery. The road is really twisty so it's great if you have a performance car and you really go at it seriously. And the speed limit is 55mph (except through the town centers) and there wasn't a cop in sight anywhere. I did it on a weekday tho. Can't speak to the cop situation on weekends.

Excellent! I shall look it up

haha could be

Yeah I agree. I've always wondered why they didn't place it somewhere inside the engine compartment where it's more accessible.

@@chilledspeed My guess is that VW had a "fuel system engineering team" and an "engine engineering team", and they each did their own thing in a bubble.

Oh it wasn’t. If you watch the full video you’ll see I ran into some problems ha.

That occurred to me when I was doing it, but honestly I don't think it will be. I tested it by dumping a whole bunch of water straight into the drain hole in the sunroof and it didn't get backed up or overflow. In real world conditions, only drops of water drip in through the separation of the sunroof glass and the roof. I don't think debris will be an issue either because it wasn't much of an issue to begin with. My GTI is 12 years old (I've owned it for 9) and as it shows in the video the reason for water getting into my footwells was because of the ends of the tubes slipped out of those rubber drain grommet things and not because of clogging. So not much debris gets in there anyway for me. That could be different for other people based on where they live though. Going forward, I guess maaayyybee there's a slight chance now of whatever tiny amounts of debris that do get in to get caught on the end of the splicer, but honestly I don't think it will ever get back enought to where the tube actually clogs and gets backed up. I guess time will tell though ha.

@@chilledspeed yea i have a GTD and i specifically didn’t choose one without a sun roof, because i knew that could be a problem and for my first car i didn’t want more hustle than it needs to be

Im not sure I understand. You mean you press and hold the button but nothing happens? You don't hear a "ding" sound and it doesn't reset the tire sensor?

It's just above the pulley wheel. Actually if you click on this video of mine th-cam.com/video/fqXkIFWVn7g/w-d-xo.html and go to the 2:35 mark you'll see it.

Not sure. I think it depends on the exact model year. What year is your GLI?

@@chilledspeed 2017

Ok so the part number for my o2 sensor is 1K0998262T. Based on what I'm seeing, it's not compatible with your car.

Could you jack the control arm up to compress the spring and then remove the top center nut then lower the jack? Or would this stop you ever getting the strut out of the hub? You could cut the spring after you released the jack then though I suppose.

Unfortunately I went through this on the passenger side. I have some footage of it, but I decided not to include it in the final video because it was already going to be a long video and there was plenty to show on the driver side anyway. (Come to think of it, maybe I’ll cut that footage up into a community post and show it there) When I was doing the passenger side, two out of the three bolts starting spinning as soon as I started trying to remove them. Didn’t unthread at all. So there was no chance of getting a cutting wheel under the head of the bolts. The coil spring was also still intact on that side and that made getting any sort of pliers or vise grips up there to try to hold the bottom “nut” that the bolt was threaded into virtually impossible. Long story short, I ended up using a die grinder with a grinding attachment and I just sat there and ground down the heads of the bolts until there was no head left. It sucked, it took a few hours. But ultimately it worked.

@@chilledspeed thanks for the reply and well done getting the job done. That final resort is what I want to avoid, I'm on battery powered rotary so with charges would take a long time to grind the heads down. Could you jack the control arm up to compress the spring and then remove the top center nut then lower the jack? Or would this stop you ever getting the strut out of the hub? You could cut the spring after you released the jack then though I suppose.

Just thinking about it right here right now, jacking up on the control arm wouldn't help if the three strut tower bolts start spinning right away. However, if they do start to unthread a little and then start spinning, using the jack could be another way to lift up the heads of the bolts to get a cutting wheel under there. Now if you're asking this because you want to get the coil spring and strut out of the way so you can attack the spinning bolts unobstructed, I could see that working in theory, but then I also agree that it would make separating the strut from the hub a lot harder because at that point the strut/hub assembly will be flopping around and it'll be really hard to brace it while you hammer the hub off. You would also have to be 100% sure that your jack is securely under the control arm.

@@chilledspeed thanks so much for the feedback, I'm going to get the strut out at the bottom, try the top bolts, if they spin I'm going to put the strut back in at the bottom half way, nip it up and then jack the lower arm/hub up to take the weight of the spring, take the top nut off and then lower the jack and then just cut the spring when it's flapping about, then put the strut nut back on to hold it up then get it out at the bottom again and I can get access to the 3 top nuts from underneath.

It's nice, pretty much exactly what I was looking for. My GTI is my daily driver, and the ride is just firm enough to handle some spirited driving without being uncomfortable or too "jolting" for daily driving. I also plan on replacing sway bars and couple other little things as well to round it out and make it even better.

When you say glue, are you referring to the sealant I used on the brass fittings?

Best solution is to just fix it...having sunroof is way cooler..you just don't have it

Hm interesting idea. Was there any particular tool that you were curious about?

@@chilledspeed start with ratchet , socket set and others for fix a car 😆

Thank you! and damnit, you're not the first person to comment about the smoke alarms haha. the batteries are changed now though so no more chirp sounds will be in my videos.

@@chilledspeed haha! I thought I was going mad, I even paused the video to go check that it wasn't mine cherping 😄 Still awaiting the call from VW to tell me how much this is going to cost me.

Honestly if your coil springs are just old and worn out, putting a fresh set of OEM springs would probably raise the height of the car just by the nature of them being brand new (it wouldn't raise a lot, but a little). If you wanted to go beyond that, I know that they make lift kits for some VWs that are essentially metal spacers that attach to the existing suspension, but I personally have never messed around with those at all so I can't speak to the quality or functionality of them. Quick story: i actually had a used Mark III GTI a while back (with the VR6 engine). I remember changing the springs once on that car with some new OEM springs, and it honestly almost looked like I put a lift kit on it ha. The distance between the fenders and the tires ended up being more than I thought it was going to be. There was a solid 4 inches of space. I thought there would be maybe 3 inches at the most. It probably won't be quite that drastic for you if you did springs, but it could still be all you need.

They started to have the button in 2011. Mine is a 2012. The only mk6 GTIs that don't have the button are the 2010s

yeah it's a called a strut nut socket

It's very satisfying ha. It was long overdue too

Happy that it helped!

I went with Powerstop. Part #S6384. My mk6 has the 272mm Bosch rear brake calipers (vs the 282mm).

Nice! Yeah it's a fun car. Especially for performance mods

Happy it helped!