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you dont need any thickness around the f holes, only the soundpost area is a milimeter thicker. the bass bar will stiffen the top alot.

you dont need any thickness around the f holes, only the soundpost area is a milimeter thicker. the bass bar will stiffen the top alot.

I have one of those Japanese saws, love it!

😂😂😂😂

To learn how to swim - the best is ... go and try to swim. Lot's of experience will come later. Real violin making secrets are not written in the book, even master teacher will not reveal you everything, because in the world of concurrency (aka capitalism) you will be the direct competitor of your teacher. Also purfling is not only for the edge protection. But you'll find it out later with experience. FYI: The maker, which made less than 50 instruments is considered a young maker with the corresponding price tag. Of cause there are exceptions.

If being organized is a downside to ADHD... I'll keep it!

Have you talked to Kirk Violins?

First of all, where did you get these plate thickness patterns? They are incorrect for new instrument. And you are holding plates at wrong place while tapping. Not sure what are you trying to hear.

Must admit, my first violin was worse.

OMG. If you would use usual glue for violin making, which is readily available in specialized stores, you could just un-glue it with some drops of alcohol. On your place I would unglue bottom and top blocks on ribs, shorten ribs to the extent the top fits them. Voila..

CNC router can do 90% of roughing violin parts, and the wood type and stiffness can be taken into account with parameterized program. The only missing part will be plates tuning which could take a couple of days. Valuable size? The router size could be 60 cm by 40 cm, and being placed in a box - 2x3 feet. Is it too much of a space? I don't think so. But for sure, to use cnc router for such operation it's needed a lot of time. Like about 2-3 month. But then, the production speed increases form 2 to 3 times. It means that potential income grow the same amount. But you don't need more money, you just need to sit in a silent woodworking shop and meditating on a piece of wood (just kidding) :)

I'm a machinist in a cnc shop. Being old school I agree with all you said. Even in the metal working area CNC are not capable of a lot of things. For example the very best machines are still finished by hand using scrapers. Like wood, metals also undergo changes when cut. It can warp as it's being cut just like wood can and no cnc can cope with that. Using scraping techniques you can match surfaces to within a few millionths of an inch, no CNC can do that.

Why is a double bass better than a violin? - It burns longer.

really lovely video! It was really enlightening to hear another woodworker talk about the whys and wheres and whats of the way they work. As a hand tool enthusiast I 100% related to you when you talked about how loud, dusty, and expensive power tools are lol. Watching your journey into violin making has been really fascinating, I can't wait to see your next video.

Hello! As a luthier student at the Violin Making School of Cremona, I asked my school masters about this very question, and they explained that there is indeed a difference between a one-piece and a two-piece back. The difference primarily lies in the rigidity of the center joint. In a two-piece back, the center joint is slightly more rigid than the rest of the back. This added rigidity comes from the glue absorption and the glue itself, resulting in a defined zone of stiffness along the joint. In contrast, a one-piece back is more uniform, without a pronounced rigid center. It has a more consistent flexibility throughout, which can be both a challenge and an opportunity during the construction process. While a two-piece back offers greater predictability-thanks to its symmetry and the rigidity of the center joint-a one-piece back requires a more experienced hand, particularly during the thicknessing process, where flexibility and rigidity must be carefully assessed. Ultimately, neither option is inherently better or worse. These are just properties to consider in the later stages of construction, such as arching and thicknessing. A two-piece back might be easier to work with due to its predictability, whereas a one-piece back demands more skill to manage its unique characteristics.

Hats off to you bro. You are going in the right direction and it looks like know what your doing. Absolutely nothing wrong with being self taught. You appreciate your school of hard knock skills a lot more. It takes patience, determination and discipline to do what your doing and I admire you for it. It will be worth it all when the bow rides the strings for the first time and you will hear the results of your hard work. Well done sir!

Thank you for the info I love the way you describe things!

Interesting stuff .. although I play bass mostly I’ve always been interested in the construction of all wood instruments 🤘👍

I Love the passion you have for learning your craft!

Informative , specially the way to heat and bend👍👍👍

A one piece back isn't as stable as a two piece back can be.

I made a violin a few years back. I'd carve away for hours and end up with a huge pile of wood shavings...........and it looked almost the same as when I started 🤣 I used a bit of car exhaust with a blowtorch for bending the sides

Found you on imgur, loving these vids :)

Cool

Some violin backs have curly aka fiddle-back maple wood as decorative. To get mirror image grain centerline a thick piece of curly maple would be cut then open both halves and voila'!

Why are there fortissimo hole anyways?

Looks good! You're making good progress. Mine is kind of stalled at the moment, waiting for a few days off from work to make some more progress.

What note does that sharpener play? B#

That last shot with the light shining through it is absolutely gorgeous. People forget that humans have been making things out of wood for hundreds of thousands of years, but sandpaper was only invented, as far as we know, around 1300 AD. Most of the great wooden inventions of humanity were made without the benefit of using sandpaper

And SO OOO satisfying!

Where is part 2?? I came from tik tok for the rest of the violin?! Please share more

I want to build a 9th century Citole with six frets with a 13' scale length for reenactment. Will a regular guitar fret calculator work?

how long did it take you to make?

Wow, building a violin for the first time and actually doing a pretty good job. Respect.

I tell my guitar building students "As long as you don't throw it out in the street and fix it somehow, you win! Nice job!

already looking good!

Great video, Brian!

Hi Brian,,, Enjoyable video, hope you are goin to make a series and keep us all updated..

Amazing

I hope you build a clawhammer banjo one day!

القوس بينهما بخشب ايه وايه❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

ما نوع خشب القوس ❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉

nice recovery! Live and learn....

This was a fun watch, there is something very satisfying about seeing joins neatly trimmed. I hope you survive part two, it sounds pretty grim. ;) As one who is still new to making videos of woodworking, I found having to read the subtitles took my eyes away from the process too often. I am told that a lot of people, especially younger generations, prefer subtitles so I guess you can't please 'em all. Have you considered doing a voice-over as well? Regardless, I look forward to part two.

Good save on the rosette!

Was wondering where you got the plan from? Or, did you create it yourself? Thanks

Hi Brian, you did a great job on the citole! Yes, the top did not fit, but the work was very well done! My comments may be invalid since I don't know how much the top was off. So forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir. But, did you consider adding binding or decorative edging to the top? It may have helped you to add additional material to the edges so it could be glued on. Otherwise, saving it for another citole would have worked too. Old school gamba makers as well as violin etc would make the rib garland and then trace the outlines on the top or back wood , leaving a margin to trim back. Also, many instruments we're built without a mold, tracing the outline on the back, and building the ribs onto the back, so the outline was not as critical. Maybe things already understood by you. I'd like to build a citole also, so I was very excited to see your video and your Facebook posts as well!! Many Thanks!

Hi Brian, I replied to your comment on my video but don't know if you can see it since I had problems with comments. Anyway I'm looking foward to seeing what you do with all those tools!

Good luck with your project

Wow all those tools, I'm drooling! :D Before you build a violin I highly recommend watching the videos of Davide Sora, look him up. He is a master at the craft and has detailed videos.