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No

This is how I would sanitize well water can confirm the power of UV light is amazing

is it getting to warm perhaps

@@tigerrat8 I was able to keep both batches at 66F including bottle conditioning. With little temp variation, +/- 1 degree. I’ve since produced a third batch (currently in dry hop conditioning), but I moved the whole operation outside. Nothing was done in the house.

@@collinnewberry i use brew kits you making real from start? have not tried that would like to though

From what I understand it's acetobacter converting the alcohol to acetic acid (vinegar). It's an aerobic process meaning it needs oxygen. Generally speaking the brewing process is anaerobic process meaning it needs an environment with little to no oxygen, which the yeast usually do for you as they produce CO2 as part of the fermentation process. All of that being said, I would venture a guess that at some point in your process you are introducing too much oxygen to your brew after the initial fermentation. Examples of that would be too much sloshing during transfer, stirring too vigorously after fermentation is finished, shaking your brew to mix it after racking. Long story short, oxygen is your enemy in this regard so try to figure out how that's getting into the system, then try to figure out how to eliminate that.

Yes, it will help a bit. Put the beer in (fill 1/2 to 2/3 full). Set pressure at 20 lbs and let it sit overnight. Turn the CO2 pressure off and purge pressure from the mini-keg. Set your pressure at 4-5 lbs and serve! That’s the process that works best on mine.

No not at all, the heat is directed very well and high enough up on the burners that it doesn’t affect the table at all. I explored an electric setup but propane was the way to go, with maintenance and cleaning electric would be a hassle in my opinion.

@@unfiltered2889 where did you get your table?

Most of my equipment is pieced from restaurant supply stores. The table that holds the brew gear is a 72” equipment table which is shorter then a standard table and I got it from ‘Chef Toys’ online.

Thank you. The brew area is like my “man cave” so the top shelf is where I keep my smoke things. I have a few Hookahs, cigar ashtrays and various cleaning supplies to keep the hookahs sanitary.

Pavel V same boat here. First time brewer. Barely getting the equipment. Good luck man!

Homebrew books, instructions and recipes are based on the way that distillers beer and Prohibition beer are produced. The single temperature infusion brewing method and all grain produces home made, distillers beer. Malt syrup produces authentic Prohibition beer. A bunch of advertisers back in the 70s invented CAMRA and they renamed distillers beer and Prohibition beer, real ale. It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager by soaking malt at one temperature. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale and lager due to the way that enzymes work. To produce ale and lager with the homebrew method malt would need to contain magical properties in order for low temperature activated enzymes to work during a single, high temperature rest without denaturing, which is impossible. The high temperature rest denatures enzymes that are needed for making ale and lager. The brewing method leads brewers to believe that ale and lager can be produced, quickly. An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for producing ale and lager. Syrup is produced by professionals and it produces a consistent, final product. The malt used in all grain homebrewing is used to make malt syrup. The malt didn't reach brewers grade standard and it was turned into syrup, otherwise, the malt would have been purchased by breweries. The finish of syrup beer and all grain homebrew are similar due to the malt being the same. I'm not sure what Palmers bible is or the connection it has with producing ale and lager. The books that explain how ale and lager are produced are expensive. Wulf's 1958 and 1959 journals are the best books, but they are very expensive, deClerks books aren't as expensive. Abstracts from the IOB are free, online and they are interesting to read. In the 19th century the IOB made malt, modern. The IOB performs tests on malt, yeast and fermentation and they invented the malt spec sheet. Click on Gladfield's website and find American Malt, the spec sheet for the malt is on the page. Part way down on the spec sheet is Kolbach. The Kolbach number determines level of modification and malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Under modified, malt is much richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt. The protein content in malt should be less than 10 percent, the less protein, the more sugar in malt. Homebrew malt can be as high as 52 Kolbach and high as 16 percent protein. The higher the Kolbach number and protein content, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager, that is the reason why the malt is used in grain distillation. The malt contains mostly Alpha, which produces glucose, and that's all that is required for making whiskey. When a recipe recommends purchasing two row, pale malt without indicating on the recipe the malthouse that produced the malt, do not purchase the malt. When the malthouse is known, the malt spec sheet for the malt can be obtained and referred to. A malt spec sheet comes with each bag of malt and it is used for determining the quality of malt before it is purchased. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's American Malt are under modified. To take advantage of the rich malt, at the least, a three temperature, step mash method should be used, which produces pseudo ale and lager. To take full advantage of the malt a triple decoction method is used, which produces authentic ale and lager. To produce authentic Prohibition beer use high grade syrup. Purchase hops that have the Beta percentage listed on the container. Without knowing the percentage of Beta, the quality of hops cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hop. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces before adding hops. Less hops are needed because the extract is cleaner. Skim off second break, as well.

Good choices. Cleanliness and sanitation are VITAL in home brewing. Oxyclean is a very good cleaner without any flavors or fragrances The only thing I found better is PBW. Starsan excellent sanitizer. I used potassium metabisulfite for years. I have bought One Step but it has not arrived yet

Yes, I got my inspiration from heisenberg! Hopefully the beer sells as well as old blue.

Lol soon I will be able to once I add a fitted lid to create the pressure required for distillation. Pending a review of my local distilling laws.

No, the filter is a reusable cotton filter that will only need to be washed. I would recommend replacing it every few months as needed.

The Unfiltered Brew Blog - thank you ! That's good!

Yea it was the second cup of the day. Still good though !

@@unfiltered2889 I just like my coffee a bit more darker & stronger. (First time I ever seen a coffee maker like that.)