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Glad it helped you!

Great idea and way to protect your investments!

Absolutely!

For sure!

The economics depends on what your electric and propane costs are, but generally speaking a good heat pump (installed properly) will cost less to operate under normal conditions. My advice is to let your system control when to switch over to propane automatically. Is your heat-pump and/or the propane furnace a two-stage or multi-stage system?

Considering the price of propane in my area, it's way cheaper to add $50 to $70 a month on my electric to run my heat pump a majority of the time versus my propane which cost $4.59 a gallon right now

@ALM1GHTY.PEANUT I'm paying about $2 a gallon

@ yeah IDK propane prices everywhere, but in my experience it's one of the most expensive ways to heat a house.

🎯

Great idea! Going to look into that :)

Glad you found it helpful!

You’re welcome and glad to hear it!

Thanks for watching!

Each certification really built on previous ones, but not everyone needs to do them all. It really depends on what jobs you want!

You're welcome!

Thank you!

I appreciate the kind words, thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Do it man! If there’s trim around the window as well, make sure you caulk the trim to the wall all the way around as well! Siliconized latex caulk is best

@@jbuckley8 I think the day I did that inspection it was around 15-20 degrees outside. Vaulted ceilings without space above them are hard to fix sometimes without removing drywall. Same with cathedral ceilings. Often they aren’t the first place I’d start doing improvements though, as usually there’s easier and more cost effective options.

Great to hear you're not having any problems and you're right - they do need to be changed more often since they clog up faster than cheaper ones! The only way to know if those filters are actually causing issues is by doing a "static pressure test" across the filters and over the entire HVAC system, as well as a "heat rise" test to see if the system still operates within manufacture's specs. Unfortunately, most HVAC technicians don't do those tests, even though they're pretty fast and easy to do. Hopefully your tech did them!

@ Appreciate the reply😀. A heat rise test was done, but not the static pressure test. I had previously checked with the furnace installers ( they are manufacturers agents) regarding filters, and they confirmed that Filtrete Merv11 were fine providing they were changed regularly.

I have to change mine monthly. I have two furnaces and 4 dogs. The filters get dirty quickly

@@Joemil271yeah you’ll definitely need to change them more often with pets indoors and/or if you burn scented candles or incense!

I appreciate it!

absolutely!

Glad you liked it!

A good insulation & air sealing contractor can fix those things, or even a handyman with a caulk/foam gun that knows what they’re doing. It’s really not that hard. The video link at the end of this one shows what needs sealed up in the attic

@@HomeComfortAdvisors Awesome, thanks for the reply! If it’s not too hard to diagnose and fix I definitely wouldn’t mind DIYing it. I’ll check out the other video. I’m renting a camera this week

@@MultiSmitty11if you’re interested in buying an inexpensive IR camera check out this other video I did recently on the Topdon TC002 camera for smartphones. If you have ongoing uses for one it’s a great little tool to have handy. th-cam.com/video/dDKkje1WS-U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HsOv8nQawxa2E-yo

Thanks!

@@williampalchak7574 that’s awesome!

@@Hvacandstuff I agree and let’s do it!

Hard to argue with clear thermal images!

Yeah every system is different and high MERV air filters can create more problems in some systems than others, but in general they're too restrictive for most systems out there today. Always best to test the pressure drop across them to be sure!

Expandable foam or silicone caulk is the cheapest and easiest to use

and rightfully so!

For sure. Hoping to raise more awareness of it through these discussions!

It happens way too often...

@@ChristinaGeorge-h5l glad you liked it! 😁

Not required or necessary in climate zone four. Interior vapor barriers are required in northern states and Canada in higher climate zones.

If you have a bunch of ductwork in your attic then I'd recommend you consider spray foaming your attic and sealing it off from outside instead. By the time you remove what's there, add fiberglass, OSB, and more insulation on top you could just encapsulate the attic and bring that ductwork into the conditioned space. There's several factors to consider before doing this, like whether or not you have metal flue pipes from gas appliances or fireplaces to deal with, but if it can be done properly your house will be more efficient that way.

@HomeComfortAdvisors I'm leery about using spray foam due to concerns over roof decking/truss failure from improper ventilation and inability to remove moisture. I've read too many stories about foam failure due to mixing and adhesion issues, as well as air pockets leading to moisture, mold and rot. I believe many insurance carriers in the UK have begun dropping coverage for houses with spray flamed attics for these reasons. It is very difficult and labor intensive to remove, especially in an attic with no subfloor. I also do not like that is highly flammable compared to fiberglass/rockwool. Personally I would sleep much better at night using tried and true methods with lower risk.

@@robertm5969 your concerns are valid and that's why vetting and hiring the best contractors are key to avoiding those issues. Whenever it's possible to bring the HVAC and duct system inside conditioned space, I usually recommend doing it. However, if the entire attic perimeter cannot be easily accessed and sealed off at the soffits, then it's probably not worth messing with spray foam. Just make sure you air seal all your ductwork connections really well and fix any duct insulation issues before doing your attic insulation work, that way any leaks from ducts aren't sucking in insulation dust fibers!

@@HomeComfortAdvisors I believe replacing the old hvac unit/ductwork (most of which is old flex duct in poor condition) with mini splits brings everything into the conditioned space.

@@robertm5969 yep, as long as you're using head units on the walls and not cassettes on the ceilings. Keep in mind that mini splits do not dehumidify or filter air nearly as well as regular heat pump systems, so if you live in a humid climate it's something else to consider.

@@Hvacandstuff Unless you recently moved to Goshen in the last couple weeks, then no 😁

@HomeComfortAdvisors nope lol. I have the same color wood in my Attic

@@homeairleakagetest right?! Some of holes I’ve seen are 2-3x bigger than necessary

@@beausimpson1172 this thermal image was taken with an older Fluke TI-55. Pretty expensive infrared camera, but check out this video I did with an affordable smartphone infrared camera I recently bought! th-cam.com/video/dDKkje1WS-U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RAucfMctmiDz3ugI

That’s awesome, thank you !

@@beyondstorage5093 you’re welcome!

@@BuildingPerformance502 I definitely like this one better!

I know, right? It's a great little thermal camera!

@@y0utub3vid if you can’t upgrade your filter rack or don’t want to spend the money on it, then just use basic fiberglass filters that won’t restrict airflow to the point it hurts your system’s performance and replace them every month or so. It’s all about the “pressure drop” across the filter, which you need a simple pressure gauge to measure. Unless you can test the pressure drop, I wouldn’t buy filters with a MERV Rating over 8 just to be safe

@@HomeComfortAdvisors I have been running this system with high density filters since it was installed about 15 years ago with no issues, but I am willing to try your suggestion to see if I can discern a difference.

@@y0utub3vidif your system is 15 years old and you’ve never had parts fail, AC freeze up, etc then you’re probably fine with the filters you’ve been using. The real ways you test for the difference are by measuring the “heat rise” or “cooling drop”, air flow through system, and total external static pressure and compare it to what the manufacturer’s limits. Anecdotally, you can try replacing air filters and see if one makes your system any more quiet or louder than another. If the system gets louder, it’s a sign of restricted airflow.