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16mm

Can't remember right now mate. Take yours to bits and let me know.

Thanks mate doesn't always work...

¡Faltaría más!

Cool! Keep us updated 😉

Yes, a little force may be required to remove the pump body from the crankcase, especially if there is corrosion between the two parts.

Remove the bolts holding the pump to the engine and the pump body pulls out. Be careful not to drop the washer )on the pump shaft) into the sump: sometimes the washer remains stuck with oil on the internal pump drive. If so, you can lift it out with a screwdriver...

I was struggling too then I had a brainwave lol...

@@willforeman fab idea! Just got to try and find one now! Seems like everywhere I look it's a pack of 10+ for silly money but I'll find one somewhere!

@@grahammacpherson4172 I got lucky, just happened to have one the right size left over from a job!😃

Good question, can't remember right now, the bush at the top is rubber mounted but I think it's only there to allow some lateral movement...

...now that I have done more km that noise has mostly disappeared ;) All bearings are new, as well as new piston rings...now with stock exhaust th-cam.com/users/shortslDH_erdxQuM x

We've all got stuff laying around for weird and wonderful solutions...I dunno if I came up with this myself or inadvertently spotted it somewhere else but wtf it works! Lemmy, yeah...Hawkwind's Orgone Accumulator right up there at the top of my desert island disc list lol

I might have seen it somewhere else and just forgot 😅

That is completely unnecessary. With the tyre inflated properly, the rim doesn't touch the steps!

@@willforeman Most inflated rubber objects can compress, specialy on a 90 degree sharp, uneven edge. It is just not professional.

@@corneilcorneil I greatly appreciate your professional feedback. The next time I do any mechanical work you can be sure that I will consult you on your expertise. Many thanks!

@@willforeman Using improvised tools is just not professional. Next time use a Snap On bearing puller. 😂

@@travisray139 Even better: take it to your nearest Yamaha dealer 😆

My pleasure ;)

Hi Bjorn I removed the water pump because I rebuilt the whole engine! Yes, the pump can be removed by itself no problem. Just one thing: when you take it off, be careful not to lose the thrust washer on the pump shaft (or sometimes the washer is stuck to the drive gear with oil) because you don't want it to drop into the sump, otherwise you will have to remove the sump to "rescue" the washer. Do it slowly ;)

@@willforeman thanks! Currently My bike is giving off some Noice like a bad bearing at 3500 RPM, when i drained the coolant/oil i found that they were mixed. So the waterpump is highly suspected.. Gonna test that before i rebuild the engine.

@@bjornokant4075 Yep, check that before anything else, but in theory the design of the pump means that water can't get into the engine because there is a drain hole between the water seal and the oil seal, so you might have a bad head gasket. Noise? Have you changed the camchain recently?

@@willforeman yeah, the head gasket is something that i suspected at first, but when i changed it i might aswell change pistonrings and valvestems att the same time. The first thing i did was to change the cam chain tensioner, and it got better. The Noice is simmular of a loose chain or a dry ballbearing. Going to rebuild the pump and see how it works afterwards.

@@bjornokant4075 How long have you had the bike? Mine I bought this time last year. The previous owner had told me that the engine was noisy because it needed a new camchain, so I was going to change valve seals and piston rings as well and when I got the barrels off I discovered that the LH big end bearing was shot. F*ck. OK; engine out, everything out. In the end it was good I had to take the engine out because that's when I discovered the crack in the frame hahahaha...so, total rebuild, down to the last nut and bolt, lots of fun!

Thanks for the "feedback" ;) :)))

Yes, I would save 6 seconds!

Sorry I haven't replied earlier! Shaft oil seal is 12x21x4mm. Ball bearing is 12x28x8mm, open type. Mechanical water seal is a standard Type 21 Elastomer Bellows Shaft Seal: www.ebay.es/itm/193881562783 have fun!

Front master cylinder repair kit as for Nissan Navara clutch, probably available at any car spares supplier www.ebay.es/itm/384379102315?fits=Model%3ANP300+Navara&hash=item597ec7a46b:g:gDsAAOSwXI1hN5fp

@@willforeman Thank You Mr. Foreman! Great piece of information.

@@marto9025 My pleasure ;)

Apparently they can be rebuilt so at some stage I'll be having a go with a spare one I've got ;)

The seal kits are difficult to find, but I've seen 22mm teflon "olives" advertised on plumber's suppliers websites which would need only cutting to width, and the bronze bearings can be made by anybody with a lathe!

Yeah sorry about that, camera was on charge and I forgot!

Thanks Martin. Leaks can only come from two spots: either from the rubber return hose at the bottom of the strut or from the oil seal at the top. This oil seal can wear out over time in the same way that motorcycle fork seals do. If there is a lot of play in the bronze bearing and the strut shaft can move from side to side, this oil seal will wear even faster. AND seals get old and less flexible! Bear in mind that the top oil seal can be replaced WITHOUT dismantling the whole strut, the same as any external seal. As for the teflon piston/cylinder scraper seal, ok they do wear over a long period of time but more than anything they are prone to getting affected by debris stuck in them. Flushing the system does not clear this crud, because the seal is - as you can see - at the bottom of the cylinder.

@@willforeman ok thanks for the info, so in your experience with these a good strip down and clean and a new 'fork seal' and o ring should be good for a year etc ?

@@martinparker6536 If you strip and clean everything properly and replace the oil seal I reckon the fix should last longer than a year. If you want it good for a decade or two then slide bearing and O ring will need replacing too.