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TOIL
Japan
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2019
RAT Distortion for Eurorack
This DIY module is a Eurorack version of the RAT distortion pedal. It contains two separate units with normalled inputs.
You can find more details for building it yourself on GitHub:
github.com/TOILmodular/RAT/
Enjoy.
Content
0:00 - Intro
2:31 - Module Controls
3:09 - Demo with Basic Waveforms
6:02 - Demo with Mutable Instruments Rings
9:26 - Demo with Mutable Instruments Plaits
10:17 - Demo with Chord VCO
You can find more details for building it yourself on GitHub:
github.com/TOILmodular/RAT/
Enjoy.
Content
0:00 - Intro
2:31 - Module Controls
3:09 - Demo with Basic Waveforms
6:02 - Demo with Mutable Instruments Rings
9:26 - Demo with Mutable Instruments Plaits
10:17 - Demo with Chord VCO
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could it be the phase of the distortion circuit is inverted? checked the schematics and U5.1/3 is inverting the signal. but overall nice sound <3
Such a good comparison ne just what I needed. I do love a sinus output on an lfo
Glad you like it
lmao!!! hell yeah! im not the only one! 😂 you should see the daisy chaining ive got going on under the hood. all within spec.... perfect😊 just wanted to shoutout and say thank you for all of your work! with min. orders of 5 pcbs looks like the local shop is going to get some gifts ✌️
Thanks for the shoutout! Yes, the 5 PCBs min feeds our DIY addiction. Go for it!
Hi TOIL Have just managed to upload the firmware using your GITHUB link many thanks nice one. I havn't tried it yet need to finish the control board. My Question is how did you get the hex file, did you have to create them because the STM32CUBE software would not recognise the one from the mutable instruments GIT page ?
The MI GitHub only contains the source code, not the hex files. MI provides a procedure for compiling the code by using some additional software. Somehow I found a way to just execute the makefile from MI directly without those extra tools. I just added the hex files in the repository to make things easier for others. Check out my other GitHub repository MI_FIRMWARE_COMPILING for how I did that.
Hi TOIL Antumbra make a 2 x PCB/Panel of plaits called KNIT I;m in the process of putting one together fingers crossed :)
Yes, I think I saw that version. It is one of those slimmer clones sold by Pusherman, right? Good luck with the build.
hi, i noticed that for the thonk version of the front pcb the side legs of the pots do not fit, the holes are too small.
You mean the stabilizing pins without circuit connection? That would be strange. I used the same footprint for all module designs. I know from other modules with the same pot dimensions which have been built without issues by other people. If there are different pot versions, then I would not know of their dimensions. You might just clip off those legs. The soldered circuit connections and the nut to fix the pots to the front panel should provide sufficient stability.
@@TOILmodular yes, those. indeed i will have to clip the side legs. was just a heads-up.
dope again man
Thanks
great job man
Thanks!
Hello. Appreciating greatly your modules and their highlights through your videos, I finalize this GITM. I work on the v2.0 PCBs and you mentioned in these comments the removal of a diode 1N4148. On the pots/jack sockets PCB, there are two diodes near two resistors of 33K and two resistors of 100K(...on the other PCB, the 30k resistor is only one and another diode exist!...). Which diode should be removed for the button to work effectively? Thank you.
Sorry, I realized now from your screenshot that version 2.0 does not have that diode issue. I think that was in a previous version. The diode you pointed out needs to be put in. No need to take care of any other incorrect diode. I referred to the 3 resistors above that diode. In a previous version there was another diode next to them. But it is not in version 2.0. Hope that clarifies your point. Otherwise leave another comment.
Rat distortion has a very distinctive sound 🔥 subscribed. Keep em coming❤
Thanks! Will try
This is great.
Thank you very much
As for the 2044 VCF: Why did you use the resistor values of 470R and 30R near the frequency control pot? Also, there's a 30R resistor on the middle leftmost side of the pcb. These values don't match the schematic in the data sheet so I'm trying to understand your logic behind it. Thanks
Actually, the labels of the resistor values near the pot have a typo. They should be 30K and 470 K. There is a 499K resistor in the dataset schematic. I did not have such a resistor, so I just put those two ones in series to roughly get that value. Then there is another 499R resistor in the schematics. So I did the same there. The 30R on the left is part of that.
@ thank you! That makes perfect sense
Hello again, just a quick question. Wonder if you would know the answer to. I was looking at the Ornament and crimes module, but with the Teensy 3.2 unavailable, is it possible to use a 4.0 with the Square and Circle firmware with the pcb you designed. I am finding it hard to find any info on this. I know the original firmware doesn't work. Or will I have to do my own pcb from the schematics I have found.
Sorry, I only have this version for the 3.2. I heard those two versions are very different. Would be great to have 3.2 or 3.1 still available. I would like to build a Music Thing Modular Radio Music.
Hi, I have made the module and just curious the box with the word LED? Is this to adjust the led brightness. if i put 1k resistor in it will this be what its for. I think i programmed it. I am waiting for a few parts to get it up and running. Just added the red and green resistors i am guessing i will not have to place resistors inline on the legs.
The resistor "LED" was meant to be a simple solution for a pull-down resistor for all LEDs. But it is quite likely that just one value would either make one of the 2 colors to bright or the other one too dim. You can try with just this one resistor. But I suggest soldering single resistors for each of the LEDs on both legs for the different colors. With that you can select different values depending on the color. If you do that, then just bridge the connections of the resistor "LED" with a wire.
@TOILmodular Thanks for the reply, I guess I messed this up. I have just soldered the leds in with no resistors in line. They are red and green like the original and not blue like yours. So, I guess I will have to add the resistors in and bridge the led box. I am looking forward to using it.
@TOILmodular Hello again, I managed to burn the firmware and get it working apart from the LEDS, the module works great. Changes the sounds and sounds great. Amy ideas why the leds are not working. About 4 volts on the led leg at the top. Could it be the ic that drives the LEDS.
Do you use the „Thonk“ version of the control PCB? If so, did you check about the labeling error on the PCB for the ferrite bead and one of the 0.1uF caps next to the TLC59281, which I mentioned in the GitHub readme file? If that is not your issue, then I would suggest checking all solder points of the TLC59281 once more. The legs are quite tiny with very narrow distances.
@TOILmodular Yes, I checked that. The ferrite bead is at the top. It's labelled correctly on the board.
Oh nice, just a question which is the width in mm of the traces that you suggest for routing?
Good question. I tried to find an answer to that when I started designing PCBs. Since I had no idea, I thought I better make them not too thin. But with more complex designs finding space for the tracks got more difficult. So I thought scrap it and just use the default track width of the PCB design software (EasyEDA), which is 0.254mm. So far I did not have any issue with that setting. Also when I started with SMD, and especially with microchips, thicker tracks would not work for connecting all chip legs. So in a nutshell, I suggest going with 0.254mm.
I would love to learn how to do this, want to upgrade from using vcv rack. It would be life changing for me. Can you mentor me please?
Sorry, pal. No mentoring offer. If you have any specific question I can tell you what I know. General advice would be to check as many tutorials for soldering, PCB design tools (e.g. EasyEDA), other DIYers‘ videos and blogs, and give it a try.
@TOILmodular For sure, I understand. Will hit you with questions soon. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Great design. Im building this now. Thank you.
Great that you like it. Enjoy
How did you make the panels? Looks good!
My panels are all made out of PCB material. You can find the Gerber file in my GitHub. The link is in the video description.
Love the rat. First pedal I build and still use. Is the OP07 a drop in replacement for the 308? Did you try different diodes? 1 think the rat normally clips on the IC as well as on the diodes and having a little more control over the diode clipping (trimpot or something) could be a nice addition
I found infos somewhere that people did use the OP07N instead of the 308. Since I could get an OP07 easier than a 308, I went with that one. Did not try other diodes.
Love rings into distortion in general and it sounds great with the Rat! Would be really cool if there was CV control over the mix to get that PWM-y effect
Yes, I also like Rings-Rat a lot. Will not reach the fame of Rings-Clouds, but still nice. I thought about CV, but I wanted to keep it simple. I guess it would only work with a vactrol.
@@TOILmodular I totally understand, it adds another level of complexity (and can end up spiraling to more and more features). Just a suggestion if you end up making more euro-pedal conversions. Keep up the awesome work though. You have made some pretty cool hardware designs
Amazing...!!!! My musical partner, Grace, has a Rat pedal in her set-up.... how can I get a built one of these? (Sorry, never even wired a plug.... not true, but the image serves!)
Thank you. Maybe someone you know is into DIY and soldering. Details are in GitHub, and this is not a very difficult build.
Good work and thanks for the eurorack 9mm Potentiometers as a option.
You‘re welcome. Glad to know that both versions are useful for others.
I will buy one if anyone will build one for me!
Sorry, I do not work in the sales department. All DIY. If you find anyone who wants to build and sell it to you, no objection from me.
So cool. Thanks for making the video. I would love to know more about the extra short resistors that you use? Do you have specs for them, or a link as to where you get them?
I buy those resistors from a local store. Here is a link to the dataseheet: akizukidenshi.com/goodsaffix/mf_FAITHFUL%20LINK.pdf The resistor type I use is the one staring with MFS25 in the datasheet, I.e. 1/4W and 1% tolerance. But usually 5% should also do. I think if you are searching for resistors on Mouser or Digikey with a body length of about 3 -3.5mm, you should find suitable ones.
@@TOILmodular Thank you very much! I really appreciate the info.
Awesome.
Thanks a lot
💙
🐀💚🐀
That looks like frac rack
Don‘t know if it works with 15V. Actually, the circuit was designed for only 9V - guitar pedal.
@@TOILmodular I'm not serious. The panels have a strong visual resemblance to PAIA, and to look at they seem over wide compared to what I'm familiar with, but I'm just taking the Pezz.
juicy
Thank you
I also have an adapted diy guitar distortion pedal in my rack. It's the hard bargain by electric druid. I mostly use it as a send effect via a stereo matrix mixer. I'm loving using it as a kind of mix glue, smooshing different voices together through it. Now I want a second one for stereo!
Sounds interesting. Did you share your design somewhere?
Nasty in all the best ways!
Yes, a dirty little beast
Could I add cv controls using vactrols?
Maybe. I have not yet tried using vactrols though
Synthrotek does this on the 308 distortion based on the rat.. could get some inspiration out of that circuit
Marc Mellits vibes in the last part
Thank you. I see it as a compliment
Daaamn
Aaaabsilutely
Damn
Absolutely
Looks really good! I'm planning to build my first case. The rails and panels are easy part for me, but the power supply and electronic parts are bit difficult cus I don't know much of it. I've planned to build 6u 60hp case and maeby I'll just buy Behringer power supply to it.
Yes, the Behringer module might be the easiest solution. I just wanted to have the power supply integrated in the case. I followed Moritz Klein‘s design for his DIY Edu case with Erica Synths. Turned out just fine.
This module is so compelling, I feel I must have a try at building it. Do you know how much current it draws with all those components?
Sorry, I don’t have those values
This is tremendously amazing ! I wish you could normalise the input with white noise generator.
Interesting idea. The challenge would be to find space on the PCB.
@@TOILmodular If you could, this would be one of my dream modules comes true.
Like the Dark Star clip.
Thank you. A really great movie BTW
@@TOILmodular John Carpenter and Dan O’Obannon. Great stuff.
Absolutely! Dan: from inflated vegetable to chest bursting monsters
Fantastic work.
Thanks a lot
Great intro, and wow what a patch !
Glad you like it
This is so nice. I really love the demo at the end 💖 Great work with the module and a great video!
Thanks so much, also that you persevered until the demo 😁
SO good. Blt much like some of your other OSHW modules that I'd like to try out, I'm not able to afford the upfront costs required to get one (let alone MULTIPLE) of your modules fabbed due to the 5+ M.O.Q. requirement that any reputable PCB manu's have-especially after factoring in the total BOM/component costs-just to get my hands on one or two ynits for myself. :/ I know it's quite the undertaking being a community supplier, but if you DO ever decide to put together occasional small batches of unbuilt kits with all/most parts, please let me/us know!
Thank you for this comment. I had to think a bit about it. And honestly, I had to check those appreciations that you used, since I am not familiar with them. I think I owe you a bit more detailed reply. I already had some questions/request from others about providing modules either as kits or assembled. Don’t want to disappoint you, but I decided quite early not to do that. But I want to give you my reasons. 1st of all, this is just a hobby of mine, which to my own surprise went on longer and in more detail than I thought. As you can imagine, if I decide to offer modules/kits, it will have to be commercial, otherwise I cannot afford doing that. I also saw/heard several stories shared by known people in the modular synth DIY community talking about their decision to commercially provide their work. All of them were sad about the fact that this shrunk their fun to different degrees compared to when it was still just a hobby to them. It was easily understandable to me why. I see a big problem in the responsibility that you automatically take, when providing something for money. I decided to at least share as much as possible about which I thought might be interesting enough for others. And I am always happy to help as much as I can if there is any issue for anyone with the build of one of those modules. So forgive me, but I will not move any further than that. In the end I am also just a layman, had no idea about all this modular synth stuff 5 years ago, when I started trying out stuff a bit in VCV Rack, wondering why there is no sound at all. I’d like to keep the feeling of fun and excitement with this hobby without feeling any pressure. Well, it is all DIY, right? Hope you do not mind too much and can still enjoy my stuff (as long as I want to continue). But again, let me know if you need any help. Happy to do that as much as I can. Cheers
@@TOILmodular How hard is it to build the CV-controlled Fixed Filter Bank? I can solder the components together but i have no background in electronics. Do i need to calibrate anything?
There is no calibration needed for this module. The most difficult part might be the SMD components, depending on your soldering skills. I suggest starting with the SMD capacitors, then all the SMD op amps, then the rest.
@@TOILmodular Thanks. I might give it a try. It would be great if Thonk or somebudy would sell kits - if you're not interested yourself. I always wanted a not so fixed filter bank that i could modulate. There are not that many options.
Yes, give it a try. I like the module very much. Concerning Thonk, if Steve is interested in distributing any of my modules, no concern from my side. However, I would not contact him and ask for that. I do not want to commercialize them.
29 opamp ics, wowie
Well, yes. There are a few parts in here. Typical FFB
Wow!🤯
Thanks!
Do you still have to get 5 copies of your PCB with the Chinese firms?
Yes, I think that’s the case for any PCB manufacturer.
I'm really interested to start building modules. I have "dream" to build modular groovebox :) This video is really inspirational to know it's possible build modular synths as diy. It would be awesome if there was somekind online courses how to build modular synths. Thanks for great video!
Great, keep up the dream. It is achievable. I started that journey 5 years ago without even having heard of modular synths before, let alone DIY. You find a lot of ideas online. Maybe my video series „Finding Modules“ can help you find online sources.
Thanks! I'll check your video and keep looking around online some ideas. I'm going to buy soldering iron and other needed tools when I got next paycheck also some rails and start to build a case. There is just that magic in diy modular and modular synths I want to experience :)
your channel is amazing, instant sub
Thanks a lot. Very kind
FCKNG AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks. I was surprised myself what you can do with just 3 standard modules.
Aaaahahahaaa, the Intro us so cool and funk hehehe ...
Yes,well… my confession after 54 years… was all me
woah👂👀👂
Oh! Thank you. I was never really happy with the outcome of that little experiment.