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I like how much you love and value your shop, you got a subscriber!

Great video. The non-working stuff looks pretty cool too. Thanks for sharing.

Its 0.586 Theres 23 divisions and each division is 0.025 mm Therefore, 23×0.025 = 0.575 Now the coinciding vernier is 11 multiplying it with the least count of micrometre i.e 0.01 gives 0.11 Add this with the mains scale reading, 0.11+0.575 = 0.586

Id bet money your mitutoyo are fake.

I cant imagine how much work goes into creating a 3D model like that. Nice work!

Awesome video man

Awesome video man

CNC operator here : DON'T buy Mitutoyo Digital calipers new or secondhand. There's lots of fakes out there, and right now it's a really bad time. Some fakes people are charging a price where it's obvious it's fake but other fakes people are charging the full retail price and it's kinda difficult and unclear to tell them apart. . . HOWEVER, I daily and absolutely love their dial calipers. Japanese made Mitutoyo dial calipers are awesome, just as awesome as the American made Starrett's. Plus I haven't seen any fakes of those yet.

Ha ha..A ‘Decimal equivalent’ chart is totally unnecessary if you stopped using antiquated nonsense like 17/64” (or 34/128”). I am not a machinist, but I sometimes build in ‘Thou’…However, metric is so much more convenient and my dial calipers purport to read 1/100 mm (under half of one thou). I can’t test that degree of accuracy…although a dial will be accurately proportioned you need to know the accuracy of the distance covered per revolution…mine says 1mm per needle revolution…IF that is correct then a 1/100 division will indeed be 1/100 mm…it can’t be anything else right. I can only test it with known gauges such as drilling bit shanks, which so far read spot on. My calipers were only 50 Quid (bucks if you like)…so not top notch, but prove more than my requirement.

If you work with calipers daily, digital is great, but they use batteries and if you use them only infrequently, well…you know what happens when batteries leak, plus of course they will be flat when you most need them and you can’t always get those button cells locally….So for the infrequent user I’d recommend dial calipers.

What a disgusting display of police ignorance.

Good info. I originally bought a Makita cordless set many years ago. Batteries finally died. But it was the same time they were switching battery styles. At the time Dewalt was less expensive. So I moved to Dewalt. I've been with Dewalt 20v for over 10 years now. All of my original batteries still work. And yes, being able to buy "tool only" tools is awesome.

I got that festool tablesaw with the whole kit for $2300. I have two other table saws that work fine. For what the festool is capable of, 2300 is dirt cheap.

Thank you for your video. Following your link to the MSC Mitutoyo product, the third thumbnail down on the left side makes it appear that spare parts are available to replace your broken thumb wheel hook. You need part No. 06AEY270. I bought a Mitutoyo 505-637-66 dial caliper in 1977. I paid $65 dollars for it, which was a hunk of change for a poor college student. I used it daily until retiring a few years ago. I believe it's a better product than is available today. Currently, I'm looking to buy a metric version of the same thing, as I prefer dial calipers to digital. Batteries, and all that. But then, I still wear mechanical wrist watches. I don't find much to choose from in the way of metric dial calipers. The Starret metric caliper does 2 mm per revolution and is graduated in 2mm tick marks. I want 1 mm per revolution, and 1mm tick marks. Mitutoyo makes one, but it doesn't seem to be as nicely made as my beautiful 47 year-old one. So I may end up with digital. UGH! Maybe I'm just inept, but I can't find anybody who stocks Brown & Sharpe. Does B&S still exist?

Skills too pay da bills 💪🏽😎

Thank you for sharing honest thoughts. Somehow I came to the same conclusions.

Search up Techtronic Industries, the own/ make Milwaukee, AEG/Rigid and Ryobi. There are a few other power tool companies like this

I'm a die hard Ryobi guy. I do some of everything and I do it alot. The only tools I've broken made by them are the rotary tool because I was cutting wheel studs off of of my car, angrily, with it, and the sawzalls because I really beat the balls off of them. The same happened with my Milwaukee fuel version. My personal consensus, based on genuine experience, including using tools for the wrong application, is that Ryobi is the best. They're like pulling for an underdog and who doesn't wanna have a little bit of character? Fuck the cool guys with their fancy tools. Mine does the same thing and was probably made in the same factory by the same people with slightly different parts.

Very good and necessary video... I live in Brazil so I everything is REALLY expensive... So I cannot play around... I have 2 lines... I use Dewalt for cordless tools, sharing the same batteries... And for more specific wood tools, I buy corded Bosch tools because they have very quality cheaper tools... And that's it... Nice video!

My experience is (for a non-professional) buy a medium brand, but even more important is: decide battery or no battery. For example, battery powered palm sanders are heavy, bulky, awkward to use, tiring your grip after 15 minutes of constant use, requires cycling through least 2 batteries and maybe 3. You physically probably don't want to grip the darn thing through an hour or more of sanding. But a corded model can be run for hours without wearing your grip out. I know; I tried it.

Ridgid’s problem is not reliability, it’s variety

With battery adapters, as long as you invest in a 18v system you can pretty much get any tool with any battery

Another question I would say you should as yourself "How rough and tough are you on your tools?" As for my self I'm very rough an tough on my tools (as I have worked with tools that were built to last an take any kind of abuse thrown at them) I need them to be durable don't care what the brand is I just need a strong durable an long lasting (kindy falls under how long are you planning on using the tools) but this my not be a question you need to ask yourself however it worth asking yourself to make sure you won't need it to do that

I try to buy in the middle of the price range. I am not a professional so don't need the best but I also don't need the worst. I personally am moving away from battery operated tools and going back to corded, mainly because in a few years they won't make the 18 volt any more or the connection is different.

Once your caliper has dropped it immediately becomes wrthless as an arbitrary measuring tool so it must go either to a proper checks/repair/calibration service or in the rubbish bin straight away.

Have you tried loc-lines website?

Great Program!

I have at least 8 different digital calipers. Starrett, Mitutoyo, Tesa, and Mahr. Starrett are the worst, Mitutoyo the best. If you drop them, any of them, they need to go into the trash.

@themeandeousengineer Why did you have to replace your Starrett dial calipers?

Looks like you bought fake mitutoyo,

If you want a super durable and inexpensive caliper good old verniers are very tough.

Minus series gage pins are .0002 under size from marked size unless the pins are chinese junk. Minus series gage pins if a qualty brand will mearsure .0002 undersize from marked . Gage pins are measured with a Master Mic or optical comparator when certified. The caliper material is not flexing at the beams , its the gear mechanism being overstressed . 24:26

Great video. I really like everything from the layout, the editing, the thought behind your points, the realization and your appreciation of the work I assume he put into producing it. Most importantly, I really like to see woodworkers and other makers supporting each other. Nice video and new subscriber. :)

I think working in a manufacturing environment is a good place to work. When I was in college, I spent two summers in a shingle plant. I had to learn every position on the line to cover that job while the employee went on vacation. Anyway, I'd sit for hours on end and watching the machinery work. I was trying to figure out how it all worked. There's a sensor here. Once something breaks that beam, it activates that motor and moves this arm. Anyway. That type of simple understanding helped me move out of a book into the real world. Granted I've never been an engineer other than building IT systems, but it helped me in my real world. So yes, I'd say any real-world experience will be beneficial...

I spent my career as a software developer but the issues are the same. School doesn't teach real world and students have no experience.

There's so many brand, like nsk, shinwa, kanon, insize, mahr, somet, B&S, M&W etc etc but performance of the tools is still depends entirely on the operator, if you abused your tools, use them wrong, drop them, they will break regardless. It's seem that peoples move always from vernier caliper but i still use my 60+ years mitutoyo 12" vernier that grandfather give it to me.. it's outlast the previous owner and yes, it pass calibration tests with flying colors. One thing i know that most modern vernier caliper are not as good as the old one. It's funny to think that with all of these state-of-the-art manufacturing but their product quality are getting worse. Unlike 50s instrument, that practically handmade but somehow having much better finish and quality.

i use Mitutoyo manual metal callipers, almost all my mesuring tools since 1980 are Mitutoyo, and chordless tools are Makita

I've seen that pencil on his videos. Looks really cool. Glad you like it.

I was on the fence, now im not. I will buy one

I bought a Mitutoyo caliber in 1977 and they have preformed perfectly. As it happens I bought nice Starrett 120 caliber for $20.00 today. No plastic in either.

I think the missing issue is the value judgement. You make a good point to prove this in asking ai for an answer then asking it to defend the opposite position and it will equally and convincingly do both. In between lies the value judgement which ai cannot do and if it does will inherently suffer from bias which we cannot tease out because of the black box scenario. We would have to remove bias from the data which we have been doing the opposite of for the last 40 years.

Im an electrical engineer and sometimes i code as a hobby, it helped me a lot making some mods for games about a year ago. I basically decompiled a ton of code and gave chatGPT about 500 lines at a time, then asked questions and it described the code super well, really useful if you don't have the source code. Also helped with different implementations when i tried to make some functions, it's incredibly good at writting code if you narrow the query properly, i never got a wrong answer in those cases and you can test it easly, wich i did of course. It also really useful asking if your code is right before deploying it, helps you find a bunch of bugs fast. The bad responses were if i asked to write an entire library (.dll files) or similar tasks with a wide scope, wich are a nightmare since you need to verify the entire code.

Have you heard any AI music? Some of it is actually pretty good.

My harbor freight do it very well for $9.99 11 years ago :)

Thanks for the info. Very good discussion points. Personally, I'm not fearful of AI itself. I'm mostly fearful of people trusting AI too much too soon. I use OpenAI/ChatGPT for help with titles and descriptions for videos. But even then, sometimes I'm just "what the heck are you talking about?"

I've added some tooling links in the description if anyone is interested in some tooling recommendations for squares, reamers, carbide blade saw, and calipers

Excellent. I would love to see links to some of the products you use (e.g. reamers, machinist squares, etc.) Great video.

I have degrees in computers and finance but when it comes to equations or math involving symbols my brain refuses to process. Have you found a different way of learning math that might help?

How will an engineer's job change with AI becoming so prevalent. Today it feels like AI is just a glorified search engine, but over time it will get better and better.

Brilliant video. Very helpful