วีดีโอ

The intro to the video and that comment combined was literally 18 seconds. I'm sorry if it offended you in any way. I also regret the quality of the cell phone video. We use a real camera for our videos today.

It is a crate LSX376-B15 purchased from Chevrolet. The building of this vehicle can be seen right here: www.digitalcorvettes.com/threads/2011-grand-sport-lsx376-b15.292970/

P0300 is a random misfire detected and while it can be from a torque tube, it can also be from many other things as well. If you are unsure you need to have the car checked by a professional. Usually when the couplers start failing you will hear noises from the TT to go along with the p0300. Without having the car to diagnose I can offer you little help on this.

More than that. Built it for my racing buddy. Build thread with dyno results is here: www.superchargerforums.com/threads/2011-corvette-grand-sport-lsx376-b15.9500/

no. the rear is bigger than the front. Both the shaft and also the housing.

@@stephenreynolds2348 nice nice 😅

This process is similar for dual triple or quad Z or X or Y for that matter. My first Octopus Mainboad was for a bed slinger and I only setup Dual Z for that but I did make a detailed walkthrough with screenshots of getting it setup in Marlin 2.0.9.3 here: 3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?51320-Dual-Z-Auto-Align-Setup-In-Marlin

another bro on youtube does it w/o removing trans and rear end on A6 from his driveway

Even if he didn't, he probably didn't save much time and he could have serviced these hard-to-access parts while he was in there. Instead, you now have a ticking timebomb.

On an auto cars the TT is an extension of the crankshaft so it will create misfire codes however they are usually all over the place and show up as multiple misfires across all or a bunch of cylinders. While anything is possible if you are only tossing a P0304 code and you look at your misfire monitors in a good scantool and see misfires only on cylinder 4 then I might be looking at a spark plug, ignition wire, or collapsed lifter or something of that nature that would only affect cylinder 4.

@@stephenreynolds2348 thank you. Do you know anyone around Southern Cal you recommend? I'm in Murrieta 92563

This video is of a gen iii 5.3L. I have a build thread for this car here: www.digitalcorvettes.com/threads/2001-turbo-5-3l-c5.296516/

@@stephenreynolds2348 damn that's long, I was just curious is all. I saw budget mentioned so its likely the lm7 iron block. L33 and lm7 are both gen 3 ls blocks but lm7 is iron and l33 is alums

@@tehtehkhantengames8580 I'm sorry. I thought I stuck the answer to that by noting it was a gen iii. There was no aluminum gen iii truck blocks. L33 was made from 2005-2007 and they were all gen iv motors. Sorry if i wasn't clearer in my initial response.

Also preignition and detonation or attempts at hydrolocking your motor are all known culprits for lifting a head. How's your tuning? And more importantly what are you doing for knock detection? Or are you doing anything for knock detection? Whenever i hear about a lifted head this is the first thing that i think about is the explosion happening and the rod not being able to go down like it is still on it's upstroke when the expansion begins. Good luck.

@@stephenreynolds2348 It stretched a bolt and put a crack in the head stud hole. I only owned the car for a month lol. It had a bunch of mods though and I got it for a good price so I went all in on it. L33 with fully forged internals by summit pro series, brian tooley truck norris cam, roller rockers, billet timing chain assembly, melling oil pump, pinned harmonic balancer... literally everything lol. Not taking that chance again. As far as tune it will be done by a guy that knows what he is doing, the sad part is he takes for fucking ever. I dont have the space to do my own work right now so I have been waiting like four months for this dude to put the shit together for me. I will let you know when I know how the tune looks.

Your video first I found just pulling driveshaft and not the whole tube. Just curious if it all needs to come out

Usually this is a good time to change the clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, and rear main seal and it's housing. All of these things require removal of the tube itself. This car has just hit 8k miles on the odometer so there is no reason to change the rear main and it is an auto which is what brought me to this shortcut. About your car's rear bearing. The rear bearing assembly has 2 bearings on a shaft that go into a housing and then a yoke goes on the other end and it all gets clamped together with a large pinch nut. This pinch nut is notorious for getting a little loose. And it creates this litght knocking from the rear of the TT. It is the yoke sliding back and forth ever so slightly on the shaft in this rear assembly. When I had this apart I had the rear assembly locked down in a vise and I verified the torque on this nut with a large breaker bar before it went back together. If you have a lot of miles on your car it might be time for those bearings. If you have low miles with a light knock or tapping from the rear of your tube it might be this known issue with the C5/C6 tubes.

@@stephenreynolds2348 I’ll jack up the rear tomorrow and inspect that nut. That would be wonderful news! Cad only has 23k miles and auto. Barely driven by a 70yr lady

@@stephenreynolds2348 the noise goes away when it’s driving, just at idle do I hear it. Not sure if that tells you anything? I’m new to c6 stuff

@@worldtutorials4043 Bearing failures should make noise whenever the bearing is spinning. If your noise is intermittent then likely it is not a spinning bearing. Because that would be a constant. You are describing the symptom of a loose nut on the rear yoke. Beware the shaft that pinch nut goes on gets fucked up right at the start of the threads on the initial assembly from the factory. When this happens the nut gets destroyed on removal and any new nut will be destroyed on install and this is a hardened shaft that laughs at thread files. It is also an expensive shaft. Good luck.

I have done way too many of these. So the last C3 Corvette was produced in 1982. That is 40 years ago. Today ANY C3 Corvette seriously considering this needs to start with removing all the fiberglass panels from the birdcage and understanding how bad that rot is. If we do this first there is so much less to remove from the chassis. And 40 years is a long time to let steel sit and rot. Here is a link to some other restos from a while ago. It's not getting old. It got there a while back. www.digitalcorvettes.com/threads/redundant-redundancy.256417/#post-3085545

I’ve got to do a complete refurb & restore on an inherited 79. I’m seeing my future

These are closed loop stepper drivers. BTT S42B drivers for X and Y. I have recently upgraded them to the new BTT S42C that just came out and they seem pretty quiet.

@@stephenreynolds2348 in comparison to mine, this thing is super loud. But I don't have closed loop drivers

@@twistedsocal But mine will print in the bed of my truck while I am on the road without skipping a single step. And mine will print up to a 2 ft cube while printing in the bed of my pickup truck bouncing down the highway. I think it is weird to compare a sub compact to a sports car or a suv, ya know? But it is good to know your build is centered around db levels. I have a few printers that are built for that as well.

@@stephenreynolds2348 sub compact? 360*360*410 is not quite sub compact but I get your point. I just like it quiet cause it's mounted to the wall right next to my bed so I can still print and sleep no issues...I actually really want to employ clear path servos on my build but I can't justify the cost of just the servos vs the entire machine ya know..still if closed loop steppers will keep step that well, I might have to pull the trigger on them. Doubt I would ever have a reason to print while driving down the road especially in the back of my truck but I guess it would be nice to know I could if I so wanted to

@@stephenreynolds2348 the reason I commented on the first place is because I want to set up a quad lead screw leveling setup like you have, was hoping you had a bom and possibly design somewhere I could follow

The LSX376-B15 enjoys a static compression ratio of just 9:1. But to be fair this car could make more power if it ran on E85.

3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?46777-My-First-CoreXY

My i3 is driven by an SKR Pro and runs Marlin 2.0.8.2. I have kept track of it's more recent upgrades and reworks here: 3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?43504-GEEETech-i3-32bit-Rework

I have a build thread for it right here: www.superchargerforums.com/threads/1998-camaro-v6-turbo.10919/

I have detailed this printers entire life and everything I have done to it right here: 3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?29112-370mm-X-250mm-X-300mm

No need. This is setup so it will wipe each extruder every time it starts and stops. 2 wipers on each side for a double wipe with a single pass.

Well I do me and everybody in town that wants to be radical. And I make a premium for it, too. So sad to hear someone say they hate money or money is ugly. It is a childish comment to make. Infantile, really. But here go look and you take your wildest guess at how much money that truck put directly in my pocket before making this video: www.superchargerforums.com/threads/lsx376-b8-procharger-in-a-2008-hummer-h2.7863/

Why are you on a video specifically for H2 HUMMERS if you don’t like them?? I love mine. I hate Mazda Miata, never thought to go to a video of one just to say I don’t like it

These guys hating on hummers cause they can’t own one lmao

this would be like walking into a mexican restaurant and saying mexican food is one of the most disgusting foods in the world and then just leave

But it can't. Your 2004 has a smaller displacement engine and fewer gears than the bone stock 2008 and there were notable differences in performance between bone stock 2004 and 2008 models. This truck is above stock for 2008 which means the gap between this and your stock 2004 is greater than stock 2004 vs. stock 2008.