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Hi Tim, sorry for the late reply. I made them. I have done a few triple clamps over the years and have made an expanding cone mandrel for the diameter of tubes (male is solid conical/ female is conical internal and has slots in it and expands when pulled down. The slots are spaced around the circumference of the cone so it expands evenly. I can grab a photo when I get a chance if you want to post an email address.

no. it is literally still running as is. I top up with coolant level from time to time as Im not using the machines at the moment (need to do a drive replacement) but keep the coolant circulating.

Which problem are you referring to?

There is no filter, the separation is based on oil floating on water

@@sophtayl i see. i taught in the smal bucket in the middle there was a filter. i get it now.

Thanks Kev. A couple of extras are getting fitted soon, beefed up axles and cvs, snorkel and airbox and should be pretty formidable then

@Crafted Performance nice mate. We did Lithgow earlier this year. Spanish steps, ranger bob, pipeline track etc. And monkey gum twice last year before it got chewed to buggery.

@Spartan PT Bungendore hoping to get up again to lithgow in a few weeks fingers crossed. Might do an overnighter in the swag over the Xmas break

@@spartanptbungendore8627 what rig are you wheeling

@Crafted Performance driving an MQ Triton Mick with a few mods like air lockers, muddies, suspension upgrade, winch. Next time you head out Lithgow, if you get time, explore Sunny Corner. Has some mad tracks out that way mate (unless you've been there already).

Its not a matter of fitting perfectly per se as it really depends on the purpose that is to be used for the user. It has definitely worked really well for me. The ratio drop has made the car more nimble through all the gears with the 235s. it definitely improves the responsiveness with the 235s. It also helps you keep at the speed limit if you are used to driving by engine sound. I do intend to put 30x9.5" on which will provide similar to the 235 in width, but give an extra inch on diameter. This is primarily to get a little more ground clearance without more lift (assuming it doesn't scrub), but will drop the revs a little on the highway (100kph =3600rpm, 110kph = 4000rpm 5th gear with current set up). I drove from Picton to Lithgow ~ 150kms and only had 1km of 110kph zone, with the rest being a mishmash of 80, 50, 70,90,50,100,80 etc. It got me questioning how much 110kph we do unless we are on the Hume or similar. In reality its not very often, and Im ok to sit on ~100kph in those situations (it can also do 110 comfortably) and putt along. The benefit on the HWY is that I now also have acceleration at 100kph as compared to before so hills are not an issue and I'm not having to drop back a gear like i was before. A bit of a long convoluted answer to a simple question 😄😄😄

Info is helpful thanks mate. How did you find the quality of the hiwow reduction set? Very difficult to find out much about them online from users etc, and their website doesnt work very well. Protrack seems to come up a bit feom other users, not sure if you assessed those before going with hiwow too?

@@phillcollins7155 Also look at SUMO gears which have recently been released they are made in Japan.

The winch was wired incorrectly by ARB and blew the fusible link, killing the car.

Hey Sean, as Greg said the winch was wired up to the main power fuse for the vehicle 120a. The winch pulls up to 460a. As soon as it saw some load it blew the main power fuse for the car. Lesson learnt

@@gregdavies1378 Wow 😮

@@sophtayl Missed that bit, but did have the volume up

@@SeanSteggs it's not on there, it's why we didn't cross the creek at firetruck hill.

Sorry for the late reply. I have not had a problem with this happening. I also don't get dust from my machining though

Hi Rhonda. The inner section is an old pool cartridge filter casing i had that has a hole in the bottom to the side. Nothing runs from the bottom of the trash can. I installed 2 poly pipes from near the top of the trash can into the coolant area in the conveyor. The trash can is as bought except for the 2 holes at the top for the poly pipe

Thanks Peter. I put new coolant in in December but the skimmer has kept it fairly clean. I like the idea of a wash down gun to clean things up quicker also. I saw that Hitachi seikibut not sure anyone carries parts any more so a bit of a risk.

@@sophtayl Yes parts are always a big concern. Hardware parts would not be so much of a problem. Electrical might be something else. There must be someone around that would be able to fix the electronics. Much the same as with welding machines, normally you can source parts from other suppliers or independent guys rebuilding the smaller components. But i guess at the end of the day best to stay with the main stream suppliers like Mazak or similar.

Thanks Peter. It did turn out very nice. I will do a short vid of it assembled. The bike is going through a bit of a makeover. Thanks for watching

Thanks Peter. There is more in it than meets the eye but the satisfaction of getting it right is well worth it. Thanks for watching

I still get a little nervous on every toolchange though lol

It's a very solid machine Peter. There was a similar one going the other day relatively cheap too. If only there was more space lol

@@sophtayl Hey Mick you might need to look at budget self storage. Keep it it just in case. Rainy Day machine, LoL.

@@weldmachine is 11k+gst but 2 years older so doesnt have drip feed capabilities but mechanically would be a handy spare

@@sophtayl Hard to say the mechanical,s would be any good to you. But that 11k would be better spent on the CNC Lathe. Better not to invest at this time in another Mill. If you had space might be good to have a second Mill, but it seems real estate is at a premium in your area best to use it wisely.

@@weldmachine agree. Priority is lathe next

This was in Toronto Canada. Awesome weekend

@@sophtayl Lucky Man. I will get to Canada one day. Hopefully ????

@@weldmachine it's a beautiful place Peter. And my mistake it was Montreal. We had a hot air balloon ride over the country side that trip also.

Mine was an old 99 r6. Carbies and conventional suspension. This was a race ya mates meeting where you all went out and qualified and based on your time you gridded and only competed against the others in your row. Sort of an entry level hence the double spacing on the grid

@@sophtayl The guess was made easier by the Red Line !5,500 RPM

@@weldmachine that engine now sits in the corner lol. I still have the bike, another r6 and a 2009 zx6r track bikes

When he went passed me it got me to try and chase. This was one of my first races lol. I just watched it again first the first time in years hahaha

Been there myself too Peter lol

@@sophtayl We all have, LOL.

Thanks Mike. I thought you might like that. Its actually a Ricotta Cheese strainer - but any plastic colander would work fine. only thing I would add is something to raise it closer to the job so less chance of it bouncing out or marking form the drop.

Hey Mike good to see you here. He did do a great job. Especially on the finishing.

@@sophtayl If there was a way to put a dowel from the basket, up to the center of the part, that would guide it down and not let it bounce out......but I don't have any good ideas on how to attach or locate the dowel in the catcher. I was worried that it spinning on the chips might scratch your finish. I think you're right....just getting it up a bit closer should take away the worry of it running away. :)

@@weldmachine I try to make a point to watch anything mill turn related. :) I love his tool holders.

@@weldmachine Peter- Mike's video's helped me get my approach sorted and get it done :) Love the sharing

Thanks Peter. I used the coolant mainly for the chip formation and to stop the build up on the tools. The boring operation was not really an issue with that except the chatter so had to slow it down a lot for the final cut. I hit the finished item with some wet and dry before the parting off to make sure I was happy with it and then a bit of purple polish. Pretty happy with the result :)

@@sophtayl You could make your own boring bar with 1" rod for that op. I sure miss the one I made. Guess I need to make another sometime. lol

@@bluehandsvideo Mike I have a 32mm bar that would work nicely but I didn't drill/ bore the holder out in the first attempt. Will be on my to modify list. it is pretty long though so will need to see how it goes for space

@@sophtayl I rarely bore anything over 3", so I didn't make mine very long.....but I destroyed it a couple of years ago doing mill turning....still need to make another. lol

Hi Peter. Yes it is a handy little package. I mainly drip feed direct for a PC but the USB option is handy when there are issues to resolve with the PC. Key issue with the PC is you generally can't use a USB - RS232 adapter as there isn't enough power in the signal. A proper RS232 port is required. I am considering investigating a WIFI or Ethernet cable -RS232 converter to allow using a later model computer/ laptop. Let me know if you need any help with the Comms settings. cheers Mick

@@sophtayl Hey Mick. Enjoying watching your channel, you have plenty of video,s to watch. Looking forward to check them out as time allows. I am little way off needing this set up, as i am still half way through rebuilding the Mazak Lathe at the moment. Looking forward to getting it back together, but also enjoying the rebuild along the way. Thanks very much for your offer to help out with the settings too. Talk to you soon. Regards Peter.

@@weldmachine Cheers Peter. I am on the hunt for a Mazak lathe myself :)

@@sophtayl What machine are you looking at buying. Do you have any ideas of what you want to buy as yet. The Lathe i have is 1990 model QT15. I would like to have a Lathe with C axis but i can make do with what i have. The funny thing is if i got a Lathe with C axis then i would want Y axis, lol.

@@weldmachine Im interested in something between an 8 and a 15 - I have some height clearance constraints but keeping my options open. Im in a similar position to you - a C axis would be great and I could use it for splines etc, but could make do without if needed.

Thanks for the Feedback Mike. It is pretty big - and heavy. It is probably overkill (more than probably lol) but I had the material from an auction I attended and figured I wanted to maximise the footprint to get as many tools in there as practical, without compromising on rigidity. (Table is 1000mm (X)x508mm (Y) travel with 460mm in Z). The individual holders came about as I was trying to keep the top of the tool surface clear so trying to avoid any bolts holding the tool from the top. The challenge was drilling and tapping the top block (original though was to only use the bridge and machine pockets and mount the tools in it) but this was going to be an issue. The individual holders seem to work a treat although they have raised the tools approx. 50mm higher than originally planned.They are mounted mirror image in pairs to accommodate access to the grub screws. Note the first one in the vid was mounted 180 degrees out. The only real mod I will do to this now ( as I mentioned in the Video) is to cut a couple of 1" biscuits off the legs to allow me to raise and lower the bridge as required for each task, especially when doing multiple parts in the same setup. I will make the new drilling boring block to suit the ER40 holders and a special hole for some 32mm boring bars I have. Other than that, a little parts catcher basket (i.e. small plastic bucket) for part offs under the parting tool and mission complete.

with regard to the tools all being on a common X, I want to run a test cut with each tool on the same stock and compare the diameters. This will tell me if I actually achieved them all being the same or if I'm out a little.

@@sophtayl You machine is a lot more rigid than mine, so you may be able to pull that off. I found that I have to do a test cut at the feed/speed that the part will be made at in order for me to get the X set correctly. Basically, I just make the part and adjust the X after it's finished and I can measure it. I'll be rather surprised if you're able to manually set the tools to get the same cut. I think it would be cool to be able to, but I'm not sure if there's any real advantage since the offsets can be set individually.

@@bluehandsvideo I am leaning towards your way of thinking. Y is the critical bit for consistency, especially with a radius tool as the whole profile changes. so basically you leave the finishing pass till you measure and take the final cut after some adjustments? do you do it chage the WCS or adjust Fusion?

@@sophtayl I end up with a couple of parts sacrificed. Luckily, the material cost isn't much, typically. I've done the tool setup a couple of different ways. I've actually set them up with the Haimer initially, then tweaked the offset after measuring the part. So...yes...I change the WCS rather than adjust the part in fusion. I want the part in fusion to be exactly what I want it to be. If I change the part in fusion for one run or tool, then it will have to get changed again for a different tool. Each tool has it's own WCS, so it just makes more sense to tweak it's location to have the part turn out correct. I've been setting the Y axis with the steel ruler method and the X and Z with the paper touch off the last few times. That gets me really close. If anything, it tends to create a part that's slightly over sized.....which I can run again to resize(sometimes). If the part is only off .001-.003", it's hard to save. I tend to run it again and see if tool/machine flex will shave that last bit off and make a usable part.....sometimes it ends up too small then....sometimes it's emery cloth and scotchbrite to the rescue. If the part comes out .003" too big, I'll adjust the WCS to correct for the .003". If it was on the light side of .003" too big, I'll adjust it .0025". Running a second part at that point will let me know if it's now right on the money or if I need to tweak it again. Because a .010" finish pass will cause a different amount of tool flex(deflection) than a .005" cut(changes in IPR change it, too)....at least on my machine, it's rare for me to be able to just dial my WCS in perfectly by just touching off or measuring it's position. I have to actually make the final adjustments based on the finished part dims. So....that also means that if I change the feeds/speeds of the finish pass, it will or at least can, change my dimensions and therefore need a tweak to the WCS. It's just a compromise I have to make with running on a fairly light mill. Granted....my mill turning has mostly been with steel.....aluminum would be way more forgiving. I can make changes to the roughing passes without much grief as long as I take the same finish pass. Hopefully, that didn't add more confusion to the mix. LOL

Thanks for the comment. I went over your videos a few times to assist with approach so thanks for putting them up there. The furthest tool is a full radius tool and the once closest is a square edge tool. I have a motorcycle velocity stack job I am working on that will require these 3 tools along with drilling and boring - similar to the one in your videos. This was the first test piece so I figured I could use all 3 tools to test the program and see if it all went as planned. I have programmed Fusion such that I don't need to edit the post and this was a bit of a test for that also. I will hopefully get some video this afternoon of the tool holder set up. In essence the frame is 100x100 steel bridged across 2 posts of 100x 100 to give me the desired height. Then there are 5 tool holders that mount on top of the bridge and can hold various tooling in each. I left the back open so I can line all the tools up in X by running the skimmed blank up to each one and lightly travelling past the tool to just nudge it into place. The chuck is a 130mm 3 jaw that I mounted to a milling arbor with an adapter plate I made out of 1045 steel. The job I have in mind runs 100mm diameter stock so needed to go bigger than a collet. Hopefully I have that job run over the next few days once I make some adjustments. Thanks again for your comments. Cheers Mick

th-cam.com/video/_mnQx4ofPJo/w-d-xo.html this is the link to more info on the tooling block and holder setup

@@sophtayl Thanks for the link. I thought I'd missed it when I looked at your uploads yesterday......but I see that you just uploaded it. :)

@@sophtayl Very easy to see the difference in you new vid....thanks! You're more than welcome. I'm happy to hear they might have helped with yours. Thank you for putting your vids up!! They're going to help me, too. :) I figured out just enough about modifying the post processor to get mine to force the Y axis to zero each time it moves positions(work offsets). Otherwise, I haven't had any issues with doing this with fusion. I would like to do a "back" or "rear" tool holder with it. Then I could make a holder like yours and mount it on the right side of my table where I have extra real estate. Then I could cut the part on the left side of the tool holder and stay within the X axis limits. I could possibly leave it on the table while doing other mill work. I'll probably just settle for a tool holder block that I can mount in the vise and call it good. :)

Having something that could be permanently mounted would be ideal, although I think I would run out of WCSs. It would definitely make setup s quicker. The way I set up Fusion is to start a new setup for each tool. This allows me to assign a different WCS per tool so the Y is set to suit. I have modified the Post Processor to output the WCS in place of the Tool Number so there is no post editing of the post each time I generate it. I have also written the designated WCS (eg. G56) into the comment section of each tool and have it output in the header tool list so I can confirm during setup that I have the right tools in the right pockets. This is the first job I have used Fusion for as I have been using Bobcad for all my milling, but don't have the lathe module for it. Fusion seems to be working well albeit there are some glitches with Feed per rev outputs that I need to further investigate- for now I'm just running it in Feed per minute while I tweak things. Appreciate the input and Feedback.