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​@@Bobbymull7174 That is a pretty factory wiring harness setup. Just a lot happens over 50 years, heh. Plus I had just finished cutting out almost all of the tape, zip ties, and everything else bundling it all together.

@@danielflinn3571 Glad to do so.

@@JeronWhite Not at all. Just needs a small part of the frame stitched and the sleeper a new floor board. Easy stuff. I don't toss entire things just for a minor defect. Preserve what can be, restore what can't. Replacement is only a last resort.

@@JeronWhite Not sure I understand what you are trying to say. If you have trouble with English, try asking again in your language and I will see if I can figure it out then.

@@mtvjackass74 You were told correct. Before the era of power steering, center point style hubs were used to held make steering easier. The hub pivots directly in the center of the tire, making it easier to turn since the tire only needs to twist. On modern trucks, the tires actually have to be forced to move forward and back when turning. This truck has Garrison style power steering. It was basically a factory installed aftermarket part. Except this model, the lw924, came with it standard. The l in lw stands for logging, and if you can imagine the kind of harsh conditions a Canadian logging truck would face in the 70's, it becomes clear why the drivers would want every advantage they could get, heh. The Garrison system doesn't change the manual steering, it is basically a bolt on addition. Also, it makes it safer to drive in harsh conditions because hydraulic cylinders are typically highly resistant to forced motion, depending on the setup. This makes it far less likely to have the tire hit something and be suddenly twisted sideways and easier for a driver to hold. The downside is that hubcaps are vulnerable to damage, and the brakes are about 1/2 the size. But, most trucks didn't even have front brakes yet, heh. Hope this clears things up. I'll add doing a video about the steering to the list of topics to cover, heh.

its known as center point steering

@@beaverdam3252 I called a nearby Canadian dealership and told them the situation. Their system, like the US side, only showed the modern truck that used the recycled VIN, so they had to have someone manually search the physical records until they found it. They were looking and enough to scan and email it to me of their own accord. Since these trucks were not just made in Canada, but the entire model line not available in the US, combined with the vintage, most stateside places won't even touch it due to potentially impossible to track down parts. I think I called Kenworth of Toronto, London, Ontario. You could try contacting them and see if they could do the same. I believe I talked to Alex Tadema in parts. If you remind him that he found my sheet, it may help him to find yours faster. No guarantees, heh, it is just what worked for me. Good to know the steering is most likely factory though, heh. It works great.

@@danielhomant2832 thank you for the information I'm in north Carolina I'm gonna try an contact them about my truck and see if they will help me I have to take the steering box off mine an have it rebuilt I'm glad too see some videos of another truck like mine

@@beaverdam3252 Heh, well I guess they are technically still the closest Canadian dealer to ya. Things like this are exactly why I finally started the channel. As time goes on, knowledge disappears. This is a way to preserve and share it for the future. Feel free to reach out with any questions, I just started this truck so I'm learning about them myself, but I'll help if I can. Good luck with your endeavors, let me know how it goes. Always good to hear of another fellow bringing something back.

​@@beaverdam3252 Minor update about the steering. It is a Garrison setup. Garrison power steering was commonly used in off-road and heavy applications, and is still in use today. The company still exists and still supplies power steering to various off-road equipment. I don't think they provided the gearbox, but if you need any other parts for your steering, might be worth getting in touch with them.

@@MidwesternGarage The lever is in them and moves freely, but I haven't opened them up to find out yet. Currently just critical items to get it down the road to get it to the welder, after then comes the big strip down and getting all the other systems taken care of. I plan on keeping them functional though.

@@michaelsummer4101 That I will. No drop visor, color changing LED, lowered suspension or any of that silliness for this truck.

@@danielhomant2832 good 😃

2:57 added. Tired Rockwell SLHD or SQHD drive axles. They're good for flatland 350hp, and good for not much else. They were good enough in their day, not today. SLHD was 34k, SQHD was overrated to 38k. There were axle gear and spline size differences from one to the other, but the power divider in the bowl hanging of the front of the front diff were made of the same stuff good enough for 300hp.

3:08 steer axle. It has some kind of Rockwell center steer axle. Center steer means that that bottom of the kingpin is over the center of the steer tire tread. That's why the steer oil center caps hang out like an overbite. That experiment wasn't done for many years, and Eaton and Westport didn't try to copy, let alone Ford and GM on their own steer axles.

@@patrickmoran8790 Great stuff and a very helpful starting off point for when I start digging into what is actually on the truck. The original build sheet showed it had SQHD drives originally, but the current ones are DSC 444. I don't remember the original ratio right now, but it was in the 5 something range. So less capacity, but a bit more speed which is desperately needed. I'll most likely be doing regular flatbed work with it, so a more flexible ride will be great, since it is gonna be rough enough as is, heh. I'm familiar with the nature of power on old cars and trucks. My first truck may be a 1990 3406b, but it was only a 330hp spec with NO engine brake, and with the non-convertible 9 sp, RTX 14609b, it was fast on flats but completely gutless, heh. Hills were pretty much always low range up and down. With this KW, between the era, gearing, and engine, I won't be winning any trophies in speed nor power, heh. I will be living at 63 mph, based on gearing and tires. And hills will be slow. I'm ok with that though. The build sheet is all handwritten and is a mediocre copy so it is hard to read a lot of it. I've seen center point steering on other old trucks, though this will be the first one of my own. I wouldn't be surprised if the caps were rigged onto it and aren't right though. Between the stripped out bolts and that they are held on with slathers of silicone, I expect something funky. I am under no allusions that this is gonna be a big, monster pulling truck or that I can do a quick turbo and nozzle swap for 800+HP. Nor do I have any desire to do anything like that to this truck. It will remain intact as an old truck, as is proper. I've even found a set of the original Kelsey-Hayes wheels for it, but those will have to wait for later when I have extra money to start playing. I'm a absolutely about preservation and restoration over chopping and modding.

@@raginroadrunner I haven't identified them yet, so I don't know the capacity on any of it. The build sheet shows me how it was originally, but a lot can change in 50 years, heh. If you know what they are and can point me to how to identify them beyond International Harvester, I would appreciate it.

@@raginroadrunner And a jar of maple syrup, eh?

@@UgurMuhtar That it would, and I would like to get one, especially once I get into the cab work more. But for now I just have to remember to slow down, not everyone looks as fast as I do, heh.

@@returnofthenative Excellent info here. Thankfully, the truck is very solid and so far doesn't need any major work beyond the frame. The split at the rear of the frame was caused by rust jacking from the insert back there. Once I pull it out, I'll be getting it welded back and putting in a new insert with fresh metal. I am planning on using Por-15 for any residual rust and defense against it in the future. Paint, I've used a modern DuPont version of Imron on my first truck. Single stage with appropriate primer and prep with a similar mixed composition of steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and some plastic. The fiberglass is great, not fraying or coming apart. The headlight area just has a lot of residual sealant around it is all, I haven't scrubbed it clean yet since I'm not at that stage and don't want to open up potential issues until I'm ready to do so. From what I've seen, the fiberglass is solid and will just need a fresh gel coat after sanding and prepping it of course. I can walk on the fenders with my toolbox and they don't make any noise. The cab interior is great. The door cards aren't rotted or anything and the only real issue are the floors. Those are just a wood panel so that will be easily replaced and I'm sticking with rubber mat flooring since I'm building a truck to work, not be a show pony, heh. The sleeper, I haven't dug into its interior since it is just plain nasty back there and I need to get it functional first before worrying about cosmetics. Definitely stick around though, from what you ran, you've probably seen these trucks back in their prime. I'm gonna bring it back period correct, even found a set of the original Kelsey-Hayes spoked wheels for it. It needs everything done just about, but thankfully none of it is major.

@@danielhomant2832 Cool Daniel, Just one important tip with regard to quick easy, perfect flooring or other pattern making. I see people struggle all day with this, & end up junk. No matter how simple or complex, angles/protrusions to consider. Always work from a determined center line. Centre need not be actual center, it can be anywhere, ie at a place where something comes through the floor at a certain point, & center can be horizontal or vertical, or both. It is the very basis of your pattern calculation, & work out from that. Centre can be 6 inches on one side, & 2 ft on the other. From that point cut rough undersized pattern blanks that easily fit into the spaces. then use a small block, coin, anything & run it against the outside edge of the area you want to accurately replicate, using the other side & a pencil to transfer your mark (minus the width of your block to the undersized rough blank. When you have these marks, remove the roughs, lay them on your new flooring sheet material & use the same block in reverse, (now your original mark plus the width of the block) to give you the accurate outside edge markings from the roughs to your new material. Hey presto, perfect fit, quick & easy. Still miss my truck.

@@alexanderelrod8932 Quite so. I have seen similar before on heavy steer trucks, but not this particular setup. They use a conventional power steering and add a hydraulic cylinder to the passenger side so both wheels get steering force, but I've never seen a cylinder behind a manual box. It isn't my oldest vehicle, but it is my oldest truck, so gonna be a lot of new things to learn. Stick around, I'm just getting started on it but will get it hauling again. I still drive for a living and only home every other weekend, so progress won't be fast, but it will get done.

@@edwardjj4224 Engine runs amazing and starts up without issue.

@@danielhomant2832 Great It's was 855 big Cam 👍🤠

@@edwardjj4224 Don't know what it has currently. I managed to get the complete original build sheet which shows it built with a ntc350, but it doesn't have that anymore, as well as the transmission and rear ends don't match either.

@@krustostoianov9792 It is bolted, they are just rusted out too badly to remove anymore. That tends to happen after 50 years of being on the road, heh.

@@danielhomant2832 than I saw wrong. Crazy how they lasted more than new cars. I have tractor from the fifties and it works perfectly with a little rust

@@krustostoianov9792 Yea, low quality camera on here.

@@billybobb7252 Same, not my usual fare, but I love me an old flat fender haul truck over a dressed up highway rig any day.

Oh, absolutely. Only added a couple minutes to do this and then on my way. Always watching those mirrors.

Definitely. Something unknown and solid hits your side and disappears out of nowhere is definitely cause for concern. I always have the windows open, so I'm used to random stuff flying in. This was the first time something substantial bounced against me though.

Quite so. I didn't know what it was until I was looking around and saw the hole in the visor. People do throw stuff and shoot at truckers though, so it isn't outside the realm of possibilities.

No worries.

@@danielhomant2832 I always try to block for truckers and let them in when possible. We’re all just trying to get somewhere. More people should be kind. #AdoptATrucker lol 😂 stay safe out there brother

Dang, that is not fun. I've been there plenty. I have to keep the bed made because bugs will get back there and in the blankets if I don't. I usually get stung a couple times a year from various bees getting blown in.

Yep. That's it.

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