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Thank you!

Thank you!!

Thanks for checking out the video! Glad you enjoyed it!

Hi! Thanks for watching. The drill bits I use are a combination. The type are always HSS (high speed steel) twist drill bits. The largest ones are usually from Rio Grande. My mid to small range are metric hss from Travers, and the smallest bits are Gesswein Blue Ribbon. The Blue Ribbon bits are the best I’ve ever found, but very expensive, so I keep them for very fine work on expensive coins. The sizes I use range from a #60 (largest) down to a #80. The smaller the bit, the more fragile. I hardly ever break a #60 anymore- they will wear out before breaking. A #80 is .34mm… very easy to break no matter how skilled you are. When drilling- keep your bit steady and straight. Go slow, back out often and lubricate often. Drill a tiny, tiny bit. Back out, clear the bit and hole of debris and dust. Lubricate the bit, and go back in. Repeat. Use very little pressure and let the bit do the cutting.

This should get you started. If you have other questions feel free to ask! www.rnrlegacy.com/blogs/r-r-legacy-news-and-musings/tools-for-coin-cutting-a-place-for-beginners-to-start

Hi Randy- thanks for watching. The saw is a traditional style jeweler’s saw. You can get them from any jewelry supply company. Mine is a 2-1/4 inch German adjustable jeweler saw frame, and I currently use 5/0 6/0 7/0 and 8/0 Superpike Saw Blades.

Of course blades are going to break. You’ll break less with practice, but no matter how good you are, you’re going to break blades.

Thanks for checking out the video! The saw blades are actually extremely fine, and they don’t really leave sharp edges or burs. The back side will be a *little* bit rough, as the saw cuts on the downstroke, but not enough to cut or scratch someone. Any kind of polishing or tumbling will smooth it right out. The main reason for polishing is to remove any discoloration from soldering the jump ring, and of course to put a high shine on the coin.

Hey Jon, it’s a Foredom flex shaft.

Yeah- 5/0 is my most commonly used size, but I use down to an 8/0 for the really detailed pieces. I have some 10/0 blades but have only used them a few times.

@@rrlegacy9753 Thanks for the info

I’m sorry I didn’t see this comment sooner- I apologize for the delay in responding. The blade is a 5/0.

Thanks for checking out the video! There is usually nothing needed after cutting, because the saw blades are so fine. They really don’t leave burs or sharp edges.

Hi Amith, thanks for your comment. The saw is a pretty typical style jeweler’s saw frame, but one of decent quality so it holds the blade straight. The blade size is a 5/0. I also use a size 8/0 for more detailed coins. Specifically, they are Laser Gold blades purchased from Rio Grande jewelry supply.

@@rrlegacy9753 I am impressed from your quick and detailed response to a normal random viewer like me, thanks for the info and keep up the good work. After watching your video I feel like making something like this 🤩.

Hi Britt, thanks so much for your question. I use 5/0 blades for most of my work and 8/0 for the really detailed stuff. A 4/0 or even 3/0 might work, but much larger than that and you may run into trouble getting fine detail or making sharp turns. Without knowing your experience or skill level with a jeweler's saw, here are some thoughts off the top of my head... You are going to break a *LOT* of blades. Like....a lot. Especially when learning. Hang in there! Next thought is... make sure you are using good blades. There is a pretty big spectrum of blade quality. I currently use the Laser Gold blades from Rio Grande and they work well for me. I have also used blades from Zak Tools and Otto Frei. I'm pretty sure they are all made in Switzerland. High quality blades are sharp and flexible. Coins can be made of all kinds of random crappy metals, and good quality blades are an absolute must. (don't try to cut steel coins until you have practiced a lot...they are super tough). Of course make sure you are using the blades with teeth facing out and down. (sorry - again...I have no idea of your knowledge). Your jeweler's saw should be on the smaller side. I use a 3" saw frame. It is easier to control and makes for easier turns. You should lubricate your blade constantly while working. A bit of bees wax works well if you don't have something made specifically for a jeweler. Be gentle- pushing too hard forward isn't going to make the blade cut better... smooth, steady, straight up and down...let the blade do the work. When you need to make a tight turn, you especially need to constantly move the blade up and down gently while you turn. Hold your coin tight to the V-block with your off hand. If the coin moves when you don't want it to, your blade will probably snap. 99% of the time, your blade is moving around the design, and the coin stays put until you need to reposition it. If you can find coins made of copper, they are better to learn on because copper is soft yet cheap, and cuts easier than other metals. I learned on my dad's workbench using old copper pennies and cut Abe Lincoln's profile out until I could do it perfectly before I graduated to anything worth more than one cent. (pre 1982 is mostly copper). While you are learning, be mindful that your blade is staying straight up and down as much as possible. That's all I can think of at the moment, but please feel free to email me at jarrett@rnrlegacy.com if you have further questions. You could take a video of you cutting and maybe I can offer some pointers based on that, or if you have more specific questions, I would be happy to do my best to answer them. Last and final comment... You are going to break a lot of blades. HAHA! Everyone who does this for a living has piles of broken saw blades under their bench, no matter how good they are. Keep at it!

Thanks for your question. On this coin, what I do is cut up to the hole and then make sort of a “u-turn” to come back down either side of his profile. If you start the video around the 55 second mark, you might be able to see it. (My camera work was not the very best).

Thanks for the feedback! For anyone else interested, I use a range between #60 and #80 drill bits, and I use both 5/0 and 8/0 saw blades.

@@rrlegacy9753 After watching ur video i did my first cut coin jewellery. Tomorrow i will upload I wish u watch and share ur valuable comments

@@IngeniousGuy1 That's awesome! I can't wait to see your work!

@@IngeniousGuy1 I don’t see it on your page, can you link it?

@@IngeniousGuy1 it is not illegal here in the U.S. Not sure about India.