วีดีโอ

Thanks for the idea. Once I find my other soldering iron, I'll surely get some tips for setting the heat inserts.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try this idea next time I'm designing some parts.

Hi Mike! Generated voice is very good. I better understand english when it is used. Best regards👍

Yes, they are allowed as long as the tubes are not welded.

It was StronLight, a French manufacturer. They are still making some bike components, unfortunately they stopped making those headsets with roller bearings.

I don't suppose that the derailleur mounting thread is different than the standard one. I've simply used the bolt, that came together with the campa derailleur. And it fit without any problems.

Hi Jensen, Yes, I did. However, it was in Limburg, the Netherlands and there they are not that strict with following the rules as e.g. in California (that's what I heard). E.g. my rims are to deep by 5 mm I guess, yet nobody even noticed that. About your concerns - if you read into rule 6.1.a - Heroic bikes or vintage bikes HEROIC BIKES (or vintage bikes) are all road-racing bikes with racing handlebar, built up to and including 1987, both with and without gears, such as those built in the late 19th or early 20th centuries. These bicycles usually have a steel frame but rare aluminium frames are admitted as long as the tubes are screwed and glued (like ALAN type frames) and not welded. And Vitus tubes are glued and not welded. I'd say you could even get a carbon Vitus bike and have it approved as it is glued and period correct.

As far as I can remember, I used a rag and some degreaser. I didn't polish it as it wasn't that damaged and I didn't want to ruin the aluminium coating.

6000-2RS, outside diameter 26 mm, inside diameter 10 mm, width 8 mm I bought those on www.lagerboer.nl (no affiliation) but check if your hub takes the same. As far as I know there aren't any "standard hub bearings".

और बैरींग का नंबर बता दिजिए

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I assume that at the factory they just tighten the axles without adjusting them. I've spent like half an hour adjusting those pedals but I guess one can halve that time if proper tools are used to lock the nuts. I have an idea of using a pipe wrench on the outer nut (the smaller one) and fabricating a half-round (half-hexagon in fact) tool to hold the inner nut (the larger one, with the race) in place while tightening. I'll try it out once I give an overhaul to those pedals. Anyway, good luck, once you adjust the bearings you'll be very happy with those. At least, I am.

6000-2RS, outside diameter 26 mm, inside diameter 10 mm, width 8 mm, the axle is 8mm in the bearing faces. Check your wheel, they don't necessarily have to be the same.

Hola, no hablo español. Vitus was and still is a French bike manufacturer. They started with aluminium frames in the late '70s. They still produce very nice bikes. I am not affiliated with them in any way.

Es una colaboración FrancoItaliana de Artesanos en bicicletas en Duraluminio (Aluminio aeronaútico). La Italiana es Marca ALAN, la Francesa es Marca VITUS. Creo es más linda la VITUS.

Dank je. Hopelijk gaat Eroica dit jaar door, wordt daar gefietst.

Are those still a flat surface but sloping? Make sure your frame is level. If the whole area remains dry you can put some "legs" along the stringers every 50-60 cm. Or you can support the stringers on sort of "moleholes" made of concrete mix and some fine gravel.

@@polishTinkerer yeah, flat but on a slightly sloping gradient for drainage. Saw another video where they used window packers. We're putting a hot tub on it so I need something that only just helps it to level. Will look into the legs, I know which ones you mean, like the concrete braces but without the bit going to the concrete. Unfortunately it's brick pavers so dynabolting it likely won't be possible as they would probably crack having that much pressure on an individual brick. I only hope to get 6 months top out of as we're in Australia and are heading into summer here.

Which picture you mean?

@@polishTinkerer He means the frame.

Tengo uno todo el juego durace parece que el tiempo se detuvo en el ,como nueva la bisicleta

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Thanks Fergus, Soldering cable ends takes me twice that long as putting the cable cap - but I do it once and I have no issues when readjusting the component or taking it off for cleaning or servicing. And it looks cleaner - I do it on every bike I service. The groupset I've installed was cleaned thoroughly, unfortunately NOS is not yet within my budget range. I'd like to see your Tommasini, perhaps we'll meet on an Eroica ride somewhere. Stay safe and healthy!

Nothing was loose in my case, the first one (Shimano) had to be gently hammered out and the new one (Stronglight) had to be pressed in. They should not be loose as far as I know and you are not supposed to glue them in for the sake of later replacement. By the "open circles" you mean it is drilled through the part that slides into the head tube? It's for weight saving.

@@polishTinkerer yes Mike indeed. They are drilled out. There is a glue where you have the option permanent and a one so that you are able to remove it later. Ill get some assistent from the bike shop. in this case. thanks.

It will work only for cup and cone system. And you should get rid of the old grease before putting new one (old grease is not that thick and can contain debris). For the sealed bearings greasing them without taking the seals off is only a waste of grease.

Bearing kitne number ki hai

@@siyasahu9435 6200

It depends what hub you have. For this wheel I used 6000-2RS bearings, those are 10x26x8mm