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Jack
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2013
Touch and Go 5.9 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Touch and Go 5.9
Partner: William
Joshua Tree National Park
The route --- www.mountainproject.com/route/105722359/touch-and-go
Definitely deserving of the rating it's given! If you are in the Echo Roc,k give it a go! Especially if your boulderer friends are projecting ingenious ambition.
Partner: William
Joshua Tree National Park
The route --- www.mountainproject.com/route/105722359/touch-and-go
Definitely deserving of the rating it's given! If you are in the Echo Roc,k give it a go! Especially if your boulderer friends are projecting ingenious ambition.
มุมมอง: 702
วีดีโอ
Main Attraction 5.8 | Rock Creek Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 6774 หลายเดือนก่อน
Main Attraction 5.8 Partner: William Rock Creek High Sierra The route www.mountainproject.com/route/107591529/main-attraction This was a super fun multi-pitch trad adventure! The second pitch was definitely the crux and was pretty long. I went the wrong way at the end of the second pitch, making it feel 5.10, and even missed the anchor on the third pitch. Don't do what I did, and follow the topo!
Flower of High Rank 5.9 | Suicide Rock Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 8355 หลายเดือนก่อน
Flower of High Rank 5.9 Partner: Lucas Suicide Rock Idyllwild The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105788563/flower-of-high-rank I should have extended it before the top-out. I must have been too pumped to think.
The Vicegrip 5.8 A1 | Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 3375 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Vicegrip 5.8 A1 Partner: Miles Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles The route www.mountainproject.com/route/113652796/the-visegrip This route was an absolute faff. It is definitely choss and totally sketchy if you don't know how to aid climb nor have the proper gear. (aka us) After coming down it totally was a memorable climb but definitely type 2 fun. I don't think we'd ever do it again, but I'm glad ...
Sail Away 5.8- | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 1.3K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Sail Away 5.8- Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105722179/sail-away We started at the direct start, although the step across beta is valid, in my opinion. This was a great climb with great people. It was definitely a 5/5 climb if you like cracks with good feet and good protection.
Double Cross 5.7+ | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 2.6K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
Double Cross 5.7 Partner: Tommy Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721615/double-cross
Upper Right Ski Track 5.3 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 1.6K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
Upper Right Ski Track 5.3 Partner: Tommy and William Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721723/upper-right-ski-track Good romp. Next time is worth a free solo, but with a rope to rappel. Do this if you are new to tradding or leading! Super fun and super safe as long as you know how to jam!
Bearded Cabbage 5.10c | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 59710 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bearded Cabbage 5.10c Partner: Tommy and William Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721711/bearded-cabbage Such a good route to break into the 10c range. It may be a one-move wonder, but it's definitely worth a go. I wish I had kept my foot on for the first go. Also, just bring a BD 4 or 5 and two .75s. I want to go back and get the sequence down since its such...
The Eye 5.4 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 1K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Eye 5.4 Partners: William and Tommy Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721930/the-eye My brother William's first first-ever trad lead. It's full of first-time mistakes and lots of fear; a fun climb nonetheless. He even made his first trad anchor. A definite classic and one I will be doing each time I go to Joshua Tree, although maybe free solo.
Toe Jam 5.7 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 66511 หลายเดือนก่อน
Toe Jam 5.7 Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721609/toe-jam A classic up The Old Woman. It might get you a few hollers from the boulders.
The Orc 5.10a | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
มุมมอง 45711 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Orc 5.10a Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105724039/the-orc A fun route that preserved the spirit of adventure. I would climb it again if I was in the area but instead, go up the left-hand crack after the starting right side bulge.
How do ypu get it back
The second climber takes it as they come up.
Suprised that hook held you and your ball of steel. Does that hook operate on friction alone?
yep friction alone. physics are pretty amazing
yes I would whip
Sorry for the quality. TH-cam compression at its finest.
“Can you do that for me… no” 😅
No more throwing cams 🎉🎉🎉
Why would you call off belay when you’re not in direct That is a bad habit just opening the opportunity for a freak accident.
I agree but if you've climed the route then you'd know its a safe ledge at the top.
Another nice, easy route I've done in Josh a couple of times. Not terribly challenging, but exposed enough to make it interesting. Please keep putting up these easy and moderate routes. I love watching the movement on the 5.12's & harder, but the less difficult climbs have a lot to recommend them too. The first time I did this route was in April, don't recall the year, probably the early 1980's. It was a few days after Josh got a bit of rain, and at the top, when I looked down, the desert floor looked blue almost as far as I could see. When we got down, I realized that I'd missed the forest for the trees. The blue color was many thousands of little 5 pointed star shaped flowers. But the only way you could get a real perspective was up top. Individual flowers were pretty, but...
Thanks for the comment again. The flowers you speak of could be phacelia or Eriastrum, give them a google! I wish for a day like that as a climber and botanist.
@@BasicThought My oldest friend has a masters in horticulture. I'll ask her, too. She's been a friend for nearly 50 years, was me climbing partner for 20 (til I met my wife who now is) & was with me at the top that day.
cheeky climb
The roof a 11:24 looked very fun!
mon that was excellent
Easy clean bro, love that Tommy came to help in the beginning
Dual angle. Such production value!
Nice climb! You floated it. This is on my tick list. Do you know if you can rap to the side and setup etude for TR?
yes if you make a gear anchor at the top of this climb
Such a classic! Dude you styled it, good work 👍🏻
lmao the captions were a nice touch
Another comment from an OG climber. One of the best crack climbs I've done anywhere, sustained thin fingers to medium hands, wonderful friction on the granite face and it eats up trad pro. I don't recall using cams at all. Of course, not everybody had a ton of cams in those days lol. But the nut & small hex placements were absolutely bombproof. I even slung that tree in the middle; it was solid even then. Great vid of a great climb.👍 [edit] Glad I found your youtube channel. I've bookmarked it-I'm kinda old school in that I don't subscribe, sorry. But I appreciate that you put up superb moderate to easy climbs, not just the 10's & above. There's a certain snobbery that says if it's not at least 5.10, it can't be a 5 star climb. I've done 'way too many 5 star moderates at 5.8 & under to believe that. Even if they weren't rated that highly in the guidebook.
@@progressivefrog3681 thanks for watching, I may be young but I’m a Trad dad at heart! Moderates are the most fun!
@@BasicThought To give you an idea of how old I am & how long I've been climbing, when I started, some of the guys I climbed with didn't trust any pro you couldn't hammer in. That was "trad" pro lol.
Wow, you climbed lower section (before the tree) so easy. I started doing lie back since the crack seemed to be too thin and did not have good time there at all.
fucking sick bro
The ladder reveal was so smooth
I like carrots
I remember this climb being pretty tough for a 5.8, but you made it look way easier. Good job, and nice hex catch too!
You really know how to climb Jack! Fantastic adventure man you are really skilled
I gotta learn rope climbing soon, these routes look fun
Clean climb, V2 in my gym tho 🤷♂
I see you showing off throwing and catching that blue hex
Probably one of the best 8's in J-Tree. Great locks, small edges most of the way for your feet except the last few feet, and bomber pro the whole way. I'd be suspicious of the (-) rating. It might be only a couple of moves at the top, but they're pretty interesting. OK, so I'm an ancient climber. When we first did this, you had to reach below the top of the pinnacle to get some pro for an anchor-no bolts. And the descent was roughly a 5.6 downclimb. This is much more civilized...👍
Thanks for the history lesson old man! I kid, but I love the insight from the OG climbers. I had no clue how to build a gear anchor here, or maybe I didnt check. Thanks for the lore none the less!
🧗♂️
1:24 I was watching this!
I very much appreciate you sharing this climbing experience. I did this climb 45 years ago in the freezing, cold rain. It was a sudden cloud burst. I couldn't believe how water much came down the track, down my arms and across my chest. By the time I reached the top the rain had stopped. I do recall setting up a belay in the same spot as you. We didn't have camming devices back then. I think ended up using a couple large hex nuts in opposition to each other and a large sling around part of the rock. I think your anchor placement up top is fine, but I would suggest using your slings in a way that better equalizes the static load. Across the way is a climb I believe called Cyclops. You might try that sometime. Good job. Stay safe.
I’ve climbed that rock! I’ve done the eye 5.5, but I’d like to do more difficult routes as well.
As an old trad climber who's done Double Cross a few times, It's still one of the best crack climbs. I especially like that you didn't use all cams. Not so many younger climbers use Hexes for hand & fist cracks anymore, but properly placed, especially when the crack flares going up, they can be more solid than cams. 👍😊 [edit] And you don't have to climb 5.10 or harder to have a great climb.
nice dude
Pretty exciting climb. Why do you call it soloing?
I LOVE TRAD SOLOINGGGGGG
What they are doing is NOT soloing. Ditch the rope and gear and then you are soloing!
nice video man! Love the POV climbing
This is sick af awesome video fellas
too much yappin 👎
Hating because you don’t have friends to speak to
Lmfao this guy
Nice van with Wendy holding down the fort! Hi Wendy!!!
Nice crack all the way up! Great teamwork with @tommylee3834 on that simul rappel. Be safer next time duh ...
On your simul rappel it’s best practice to tether both climbers together. In the scenario you are not in sync, simul rappelling without a tether can be catastrophic. Have fun and be safe!
Thanks for the comment, you’re right and I totally agree! In this case since it’s a single pitch and we’ve done it on this climb before, we’re familiar with it so it wasn’t necessary.
@@BasicThoughtfamiliarity breeds complacency… Why risk it?
@@ethanquinn3101 Its about managing fear and risk in a controlled manner. To much of either can be bad, but in the right ratio its why we climb! I will definatly have a back up next time though. lol
@@ethanquinn3101ur 100% right but ive soloed this climb multiple times; we're very familiar w this rock (im the other guy in the vid) 🤷 we werent planning on simul rappelling but we decided to do it for fun! we be irresponsible sometimes sorry internet; thank you for ur helpful comment tho!
my favorite part is the one with the cowbells ringing!
5.4
Great video! I'll watch moderate trad stuff all day over 5.14d. I miss climbing at JT!
A strong anchor is considered 23 KN or more. If you believe that those red and yellow cams in your anchor are legit in good quality rock you can just do a two piece anchor with a quad. You’ll get a self equalizing anchor and it’s more efficient. Cheers and happy climbing.
👀 'Promo SM'
The face whip🤩 nice follows
The running commentary makes this awesome! Nice lead.
Fajitas go hard
Bada bing bang bow