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@PLECATARIAN glad it was helpful! I had to compile years of footage since I don't tape sessions that often so I'm glad it was useful! About to post another similar video to teach a "calm down" cue

@vernonhess3842 thanks! Super simple concept that I explained in a consultation because the dog would stop jumping and mouthing

@vernonhess3842 thanks! Disengage is a complex concept to a dog, but they can learn it if you go step by step, which is hard for most owners to understand so I thought I'd make a really detailed explanation so my clients understand without it taking up a big portion of training sessions

I appreciate the comment! I have a video titled Selective Obedience that discusses why the use of aversives is ethical. People can choose what tools they find useful but I believe it's unethical to ban training tools. I'm pro choice lol

​@@freelancedogtraining4770 I wasn’t aiming to start a debate on the ethics of these tools, but rather to point out that their use might limit your audience. Regardless of personal opinions, these tools are banned in many European countries. As for the ethical side, saying ‘I don’t want to ban tools’ feels a bit too simplistic. The real question is whether aversive methods are truly necessary and whether the tools are safe to use. With prong and shock collars, it’s far easier to cause harm or accidentally train the wrong behavior than to use them effectively. In fact, these tools can often make a dog more reactive instead of resolving reactivity. I’m not against every aversive method, but I believe one should be cautious and certain that there’s no 'less severe alternative' to train a behavior before resorting to aversive methods. I even agree with the view that a clear aversive action can be more ethical than misguided positive methods that lead to prolonged stress or other negative outcomes. In my view, these tools aren’t necessary, and they often do more harm than good, especially in the hands of those without proper training. For example, it’s common sense that driving a car is regulated almost everywhere, and requiring a license is absolutely the right approach to ensure safety-and cars aren’t even designed to cause harm.

Glad I could help! We just adopted a crazy dog 2 months ago and I plan on making a video as a guide to training a rescue so make sure you're subscribed!

(sorry for commenting so much I'm just passionate about this and looking to become a dog trainer so I want to find the resolution to the general debate/s)

Thank you for your thoughtful comment. I do condition "UH-UH" with negative punishment (removing something) and "NO" with positive punishment. If withholding something gets the desired behavior then that fits within the LIMA approach but I mention @ 4:51 that sometimes negative punishment can create more frustration and pushy behavior, that approach is what made Zues develope a reward history for jumping. When I used positive punishment it suppressed the behavior enough to where we could finally start rewarding. So yes you can use negative punishment and positive reinforcement in combination to mold behavior, but once a competing reinforcer that is more valuable is introduced then negative reinforcement and/or positive punishment might need to be implemented. If people are able to reach their desired goals without the use of either that's great, but I find more success from using all 4 quadrants and the goal is to eventually not use tools and just use conditioned markers most of the time. I appreciate that you took the time to contemplate the videos messages

You can try multiple methods and lean into which one is working. I have a video on one method - I use a squirt bottle and body pressure in a great Dane. You can also teach a good "leave it" and heel without dogs present then generalize those commands to when dogs are in proximity. Another approach is what I call leap frogging: you recall away from the trigger, then walk a little closer and recall again the walk a little closer and recall again and keep going until you pass the dog or it passes you at a far enough distance to keep your dog under threshold. You can see that method in my videos of Gracie, the brown pitbull on my Instagram

@@freelancedogtraining4770 thank you very much

Right?? I want my dogs to have as much freedom as possible and they do appreciate clear rules and boundaries when taught fairly - kinda like a boss that explains rules and responsibilities clearly then let's you get to work doing things you actually like to do

Thanks for the comment! I think it's most natural to avoid bad consequences and seek good consequences. Of we make consequences predictable, we shape behavior. Without predictable bad consequences, dogs will just continue to seek out good things at the detriment to other things like our shoes, neighbors, other dogs, and often their own health as well as their owners. Zak is an entertainer, not a trainer and unfortunately he's misleading millions of dog owners

@@freelancedogtraining4770 I agree and never understood why people arent calling him out. I can't see that his method worked for any of the dogs. Glad we have you.

Sorry this is so late, I hope you were able to make the progress you wanted with your dog. In private sessions, I have to be conscientious about not talking or demonstrating too much because that's easy to do, it's much harder to watch and coach someone. Especially because the dog is going to learn much quicker with the professional holding the leash and it's hard to watch the dog and human struggle. If you're in a training session with them again soon make sure you voice those concerns and ask for more time of them coaching you more while you're holding the leash

Sorry for the situation you're in, I'll be doing another SD seminar next year and that could help if we saw your SDiT in person we could teach you things that may help. There's many organizations that train veteran's SD's for free, I work for a non-profit in Colorado Springs that's no charge for veteran's so research for organizations near you or seek professional help from a knowledgeable trainer before you wash your SDiT

If its a dog over 8months [9yr old in dog years] I've had to make it super boring for the dog when she does that. Literally taking one step at a time when the leash is loose. Stopping like a rock if any pull. Offering treats when they come back to me using Touch or Focus tricks. Makes walks take forever initially, yet necessary. Eventually the walker became more interesting than everything else. Puppies will be puppies in our house with soft pops, harder training when they get old enough to keep focus.

I'd recommend contacting a professional trainer in your area that uses balanced training methods and has at least 10 years of experience. Unfortunately advice on the internet or short videos can't compare to in person coaching for people who are really struggling with difficult dogs. I make these videos primarily for my clients as reminders but hope they can reach and help other dog owners. Also teach heel, I have a video on that that may help a bit with your dog.

Dogs with anxiety is a complex issue that requires more than a 10 minute video to address. I have made a video for dogs who are wary of strangers and some of those principles can be applied to other scenarios dogs are anxious about. But with proper exposure training and training with the right methods & tools in environments that aren't stressful for you're dog, you're more prepared for working your dog through those stressful situations. If your dog is a really anxious dog, I'd recommend seeing a local balanced trainer with at least ten years of experience to help your pup. It may be pricey but good dog training isn't cheap and cheap dog training isn't good!

So I have a question to the trainer have you ever seen a dog that you could not walk on a leash?

@@watchmoivies123 earlier in my career for sure but I haven't had a dog truly challenge me in a few years, which I know sounds cocky but yeah I've worked with enough difficult dogs to be able to help those struggling with their dogs who contact me.

@@freelancedogtraining4770where are you located

@@bristheemufanpage I'm in Denver, CO

I wish there was a simple answer to teaching engagement with owners in proximities to other dogs, perhaps I can make a video on it in the future! It sounds like a problem that requires professional attention though since your dog could potentially get hurt. I'd recommended researching "balanced trainers" in your area that have at least 10 years of experience training dogs and people. It may be pricey but good dog training isn't cheap and cheap dog training isn't good!

Sorry for the late reply! Reactivity can be a really difficult problem that if a quick fix from a video like this doesn't get results very quickly, I'd recommend meeting with an experienced trainer in person.

Thank you for the feedback! It's great to hear from owners that are teaching their dogs fun stuff, let me know if you have any difficulty gradually shifting to just using one toy and switching onto an intermittent reward schedule!

Why thank you! I feel like some of the explainations were a little convaluted still but hope they made sense to a few people! Let me know if you havr suggestions for any videos to make in the future!

Why thank you! Let me know if you have any suggestions on what kind of dog videos to make!

Yes pitbulls are still banned in Denver but I see them there every day, it's not really enforced unless there's a bite. Citizens voted to end the ban last year and the bill passed but the mayor vetoed it, hopefully we pass it again in November and he doesn't veto again

Sup dude! Hope you're doing well and having a fun school semester!!!!

@@freelancedogtraining4770 :D i am and im staritng school to day :)

Thanks for the constructive criticism, I appreciate the help with trying to make the best content for dog owners. Also, great job at addressing "Dr. Pawfessor", can't stand how that dude tries to discredit world champion trainers and their techniques when he doesn't understand some dog training basics. You can absolutely put it on cue and generalize it, I have before too. But you can also do that with a regular or long lead instead of a retractable which could create a problem with a dog that realizes when its off leash because it doesn't feel that obvious, constant pressure. A trainer/owner could go through all the right steps of conditioning a recall w/ a retractable and select dogs that have high exploratory or prey drive will know that the absence of that constant pressure means they're off leash and can get away with not listening. It's just a potential problem that could be avoided. I want to make videos for the average owner looking for training tips, and the average owners that use retractables often hook their dog up with it and give random corrections and reel their dog in instead of doing recalls. In my professional opinion they do more harm than good when in the hands of an uneducated owner, and if I'm going to educate an owner I'd rather use tools that are the easiest for them to become competent with and don't potentially create problems. When clients insist they want to use them, I do teach them the methods you described, but I typically don't recommend them to my clients and this video was my attempt at trying to explain that stance.

Thanks for the question. Gradually increase the amount of time between giving treats while they're in the stay position until you get to a point when you're only treating them occasionally. By using the leash pressure method in a timely manner, this will give them a clear idea of when they're doing right and when they're doing wrong. So gradually fade the use of treats until your dog reaches a point of thoroughly understanding the command and doesn't need to rely on treats to perform it. It is useful to still provide a treat on occasion after they thoroughly understand the command though, just to inform them that they are still doing the right thing