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Good to hear! Thank you for watching.

Just got done setting up some Black Templars for a friend. Thanks for watching!

I have to be completely honest with you in saying I haven't bought any new Ammo products for a long time and won't be in the future. They decided to get political. Sorry about that.

@@SCM223 How so?

Ya know I'd like to try and avoid politics as much as possible but it's the same ideology that's gotten its hooks into a lot of other games and hobbies.

You should be able to use any grass you want. Static grass is just a generic term for the fibers. My favorite though is Noch as they tend to be a little more matte in finish. Woodland Scenics and Green Stuff also make good static grass. Thanks for watching and hope this helps.

Better late than never! I personally use acetone after any paint. I get the small cheap bottles labeled for nail polish removal as it's a little cleaner than the hardware store acetone.

Thank you! Yeah they got me when I first got into models. It was like a hundred bucks even back then. It can get expensive quick and now more than ever.

@@SCM223 I know. Believe me I know I was born in 1984 and back then these were ridiculously more expensive for example we only really dealt it 1:144 1:72 would be top prices £35.99 for a model kit regardless of sprue quality. Now it’s priced to tell you. A £20 kit will cost £20 back then would have just been price banded on its size. Model ship building has stayed exactly the same luckily because with modern tech I’m building them cheaper and better simply modern parts are just better! But yeah I am doing a Kosovo Tank scene for a Chally 2 and the field it’s rolling on is gonna need a good layer. After looking at this tech. It is one of those that shouldn’t be needed. (Static grass applicators)

Oh nice maybe I should get into ship building then. The last armor kit I bought before I decided to tighten my budget was the Rye Field Jagdpanther. That thing was almost 90 friggin dollars! I like the concept for your dio, should be interesting. Kosovo wasn't really covered much here in the States. Just a few reports about air strikes is all I remember.

@@SCM223 it was my regiment’s deployment. The thin Green line Kosovo (millenium tour) if you wanted to hear bout it. And ships are still £300 up. But I got Chinese ones to practice on for 50 and less! So I’m getting all the learning curves out the way first before I get my dream kit. I wanna do the HMS Victory. I got a 1:150 practice which is pretty big. That was complete wooden kit without deadeyes and blocks but you get that yourself anyway. And then there is the rigging. However do not be put off. It’s not as complex as the real ones because scale you literally couldn’t rig it exactly as real. But for models there is the knowledge and you are already here.

The Victory is a beast! I got intimidated just thinking about doing the rigging, beautiful ship though. I bought an Occre tug boat kit a few years ago, did a parts check and haven't opened it since. I don't know if I have the patience for it man.

I got hit by the one I bought years ago. Pretty easy to do so no judgement.

You're welcome! Yeah this hobby can get expensive in a hurry but I've found there are cheaper alternatives for just about everything. Thanks for watching and hope it works for you.

You bet! I hope you like it as much as I do.

Yep that's all it is, works amazing.

@@SCM223 It do works quite well, i've used it, while also quite dangerous...

Yeah someone else said the same thing so I did the math on it. You'd have to ingest 16oz of it before you'd have a 50% chance of getting hurt (ld50) and constantly, without taking a break, breathe in the amount used in scale modeling for over a month before reaching toxic levels. I'm a chemical compliance officer so I have to know things like this. If you're concerned, there are other options, they just don't work well or leave oily residue.

@@SCM223 If it's relative safe, then the sad story would be it's a regulated stuff in my country, not so easy to get it, and the certain product i know that it is actually 100% Nitromethane in fact, has tuns of fake in the market, with acetone inside....

I understand, it's unfortunate. In the US we can't get Tamiya enamel paints because of regulations. I have a friend in Europe who uses Everbuild Debonder (I think that's it's name) and he seems to like it.

To get a really sharp, polished edge it's almost a necessity. If you were to use only a lower grit like 320, you won't get a mirror polished edge. If only 3000, you'd go through massive amounts of sandpaper before removing the factory edge, it would be a waste of money. You can get a very serviceable edge by using 400 then 1000 grit followed by stropping on an old leather belt. Places like Amazon also sell variety packs of higher grit sandpaper. Hope this helps.

I wish I could return mine haha. I think I've used it once since I started using the bottle.

Agreed! I steal my wife's nail files all the time haha.

@@Allessio777 I've never used it with any of Badger's paints. That being said, it's polyurethane like Vallejo so it may work. I just don't want to say it will with certainty.

@@SCM223 Actually you have this primer in your video. Ammo one shot is repacked Stynylrez.

@@SCM223 If it works with the AMMO One shot primer, it will work with Stynalrez primer, becuase it's the exact same product...ony rebranded by AMMO...but overall you odnt need to thin this primer!

@@ZothiamaCF I don't know if I'm a genius but either way I appreciate it. Hope it works well for you!

Right on! Hope it works well for you.

My gauge has weird increments but it looks to be around 22psi. I would say as a rule of thumb, a little higher than paints like Tamiya or Mr color when thinned with lacquer thinner but lower than Vallejo with their acrylic thinner. Sorry I hope that makes sense.

@@SCM223 Thank you! Ive got a good starting point now. 🍻

@@guruprivatbahasainggris4496 You're quite welcome. Thank you for watching!

@@steveconkey7362 Use masking tape then, we're good over here.

I feel the same. When I went from armor to planes, I threw out the first two (luckily cheap) airplanes. Masking fluid, different tape methods etc. I think you'll be happy with it and just keep in mind, you can buy it in much smaller sections on eBay and Etsy. Amazon only sells it by the roll.

@@SCM223 I just tried it. Man, this is the best !! Best canopies I have ever done. This stuff makes it almost easy to mask of canopies. THANKS

You're very welcome. Thank you, God bless you and yours as well.

Nice! I knew about Heet but didn't know it was alcohol. Thanks!

I use it all the time on Tamiya and it's perfectly fine but I'm not sure about Bandai. I would suggest testing it on the sprue and test it on each color plastic.

They were free, I don't care if they don't exactly fit for 0 dollars. Fingerprints...

Putting another set of gloves on might help, but like he said - he doesn't really care about them fitting perfect

Thank you very much! Although I don't have the editing skills the other channels have, I'm appreciative either way. God bless you and yours!

In my experience, no. A lot of the dark brown paints I use have metal based pigments, Vallejo and Mig. A few I've had for over a year and haven't had any problems with pigment distribution or paint stability once dried. It could be different with other brands though.

If you didn't see my answer please let me know. The paint colors I mentioned and I guess the word for what you put in paint to make it whatever color caused the content to be hidden. Beyond ridiculous.

@@SCM223 no I just saw it, thank you. Only reason I’m inquiring is because I want to store my paints in an old steel toolbox, and instead of cutting out dividers - I though, why not just drop in a rare earth magnet in the paint pots, but didnt want the pigment to settle at the bottom and solidify or something. As with anything in our niche hobby, the internet always has an answer haha. So thank you again.

@@TheArmouryOfficial Nice! Yeah if I remember correctly from art class, they use iron oxide for pigm. sometimes and iron oxide's conductivity is pretty low as far as magnets go. A good mix and you should be good. Thank you for checking my channel out!

Nice! Thank you for watching!

Thanx

I used it on my Krieg infantry and it didn't hurt it but I would suggest testing a small spot on yours first. You never know and better safe than sorry.

I've had really good luck using it with Mig and Vallejo acrylics. Others are hit and miss so just test a little before you commit. It's crazy that it works with any of them.

Thanks! I hope you find it useful!

It can certainly get crazy quick. Myself, I run a cheap 20 dollar airbrush and a pancake compressor I got at Harbor Freight for about 40 bucks. No way I'm shelling out 350 for a Grex compressor and another 200 on an Iwata airbrush. I get what you're saying though, it's definitely a cheaper option.

Yes but don't go over 10% by volume and use 70% IPA. I've never had a problem with Vallejo as long as the thinner only contains ~ 6-7% alcohol. It cuts the butyl a little so it doesn't take forever to dry.

Yep but not all of them as I mentioned. Another commenter said it didn't work with his Revell Aqua while it works with mine so there seems to be variance within brands as well. But, it seems to work universally with Vallejo and Ammo acrylics, just test a little before you commit.