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Frankenjura is undoubtedly Germany’s best known climbing area, and is probably one of the most celebrated in the world. Situated in Southern Germany, in between the cities of Nuremberg, Bamberg and Bayreuth, this intricate collection of climbing crags in Northern Bavaria has a special place in the history of sport climbing and climbing in general. In the late 80’s and early 90’s Frankenjura was at the epicenter of what we look back at now as a revolution in climbing. Home to the world’s first 9a, Action Directe, and numerous other hard sport routes which to this day are seldom repeated, this is an area that has maintained its mythic as a hard climbing area in the decades that have followed, and to this day it is seen as a testing ground for many of the up and coming climbers of a new generation.
However with all this talk of hard sport climbing, the truth is that Frankenjura has more than enough variation in its grades to offer plenty of opportunities for the everyday climber who is more interested in a 7a project that taking on the world’s latest 9a+. Hidden in the forests, found through well trodden trails and paths, you will find a plethora of different styles and routes for every climber to enjoy. This is a place for climbers to come and test themselves, but most of all this is an area of mystic, with perhaps just a touch of magic…
An important note:
To be able to enjoy climbing in the Frankenjura in the future, please respect the local regulations, particularly regarding the different climbing zones and temporary crag closures. An up-to-date list on closed crags can be found here: ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/c...
Frankenjura: The Climbing Area That Changed A Sport Forever