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Could it tell us the frequency of the rain droplets on the roof?

Which connector is this? I’m in US with is300 having same problems… tachometer stops working low oil light comes on as well as rear break light.. I’ve been chasing wires and ground for awhile and can’t figure it out. It started out intermittently and has gotten worse to where it barely ever works now. And if it does it’s for a few moments and next time I get in the car it’s not working again…

The problem with the rear clam not sitting properly is due to the rear subframe sitting too high on the respective mounting points when the car is viewed upside-down. The holes in the subframe need to be widened to approx 5.5mm. It took me multiple attempts to get it to a point where it looks ok. You will need to pull it apart again multiple times to get it right. It'll be worth it though. The kit itself is good but made difficult by poor instructions and worse fit and finish.

Is it still possible to buy this model and build it first I’ve heard of it looks great

Hi I fixed the leak powered it back on now the buttons are not responding and the error code is still there any ideas?

I built this model and it went together nicely. You sir are doing a massacre of it!

I just had my driver side break for 5th time in 5 years

The best two lessons! 😂

Hi, you didn’t show what can be customised??

Cut the end of the filament at a 45° angle and it makes feeding the filament easier. Hope that helps so you don't have to remove the fitting each time. That sounds like a pain.

G'day Anthony. The build project is coming along nicely mate. Cheers, Aaron.

3D printing tests your patience. Besides filament clogs, I also have serial failures (at 10 hours into 14 hour print) which is probably because AUTO/AUTO picks 250000 baud wow). It takes a lot of learning and experience to get good results consistently. Thank you, this video was very helpful.

grazy

G’day Anthony. That’s one unique clock mate. Great idea 💡. Cheers Aaron 🍻

Nice project but, audio is very low and there is no link to the code.

Awesome project, mate 😊

Hey Anthony. That was a very satisfying video mate. I really enjoyed it. Such an overlooked item in everyday use. Cheers, Aaron.

I like to camp in detents!

Much like the detents, this video's gone underappreciated too!

Hmm im stuck with the ball bearing not coming off the axle. Guess it will come down to brute force

Good job mate !!!

So the airflow does get affected by air leaking through the print layers, it'd always been discussed that 3D prints couldn't be used as vessels to hold liquids and experience with a Stratasys support bath suggests as much as well. It'd be interesting to see if a version of this sprayed with clear coat or event just a flat colour helps to seal the microgaps in the layers and the airflow to/from the pump is improved.

Awesome video! With love from a fellow ZB owner 👌💪👍✌

Thanks for showing your excellent Fairlane looks & sounds amazing

THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!!!!

Can we reuse after sharpening?

Where did you find the axel?

Great stuff! Really highlights the power in the maker community to develop custom solutions for low cost. Your students will benefit greatly from this. Only a little warping on the corner of a model near the edge of the bed is a great result, looks like the Ender 3 is working well.

Thank you very much for your information

Excuse me,one question? do you think if be able to program a key fob with it? 2012 Lexus ct200h

Great explanation! Just watched the vid and ordered the front axle, seems easy enough to replace. For me, a wheel fell off because the axle broke. Very clear now how to replace it, thanks a bunch!

The cat sits in there because mice have probably moved in. Nice to see the engine bay of a TR7 again.

Ha, I called it early on. Of course, I had an analog computer lab in college, and we learned real quick to test each cable as we added it to the programming. I have a different version of that power supply. It has a knobs for both voltage and current limit adjustment. I think that arrangement is less confusing. Pro tip: make yourself some buss bars out of 12 ga solid wire with spade lugs shaped to fit rightbon the binding posts for serial and parallel modes. You seriously don't want to make a mistake there. Both serial and parallel modes work well.

Hi, yeah, been there, done that. As I couldn't see the labels on the various buttons, my first thought was had you enabled the outputs. Some power supplies have an enable button, so you can set everything up prior to allowing the output to be connected to your circuit. I also considered sense circuits not connected or enabled. It's odd how we ignore something that should be obvious and looks us right in the face. I'm glad you found the problem, but you lost your hair in the process !! Lol.

Good quality out of the first print, a bit of fine tuning from there and it'll be mega. Creality are amazing value for money even more-so now than they were five or six years ago when I bought my Ender 5. Their entire product line-up now makes it amazing value for money for people getting started without the finances for an Artec scanner or Trotec laser cutter. I'm eyeing off a K1 to eventually replace my aging Ender 5, but I just need some space to put it!

Nice pickup, what a bargain!! Thanks for sharing the setup and first print with us!!

"Bowden gap" is literally the oldest Ender-3 problem. At the very minimum you should not have tightened the nozzle before putting the bowden tube in, you should back off the nozzle 1 full turn, insert the bowden tube, then finish tightening the nozzle, so it will squeeze against the bowden tube, not permanent because the coupling will eventually allow the tube to move up and create the gap again. For a permanent solution you should do Luke Hatfield's hotend fix. Also, if you print a knob for your extruder and instead of trying to push the filament in, you put it in position and turn the knob, it will go through that first coupling without catching on the sides.

Can I buy a light kit from you ?

Great ❤❤

Pls how can i take it -from where ❤

Set it for 16 pin and see if it works. It does alot! It checks for codes in modules. Codes in modules can be caused by corrosion on fuses. Erase the code in a module and drive it and see if it comes back.

thank you! ive been wondering if i could add cruise control to my is200 so its nice to see how you've done it

Did cleaning these filters fix the problem? We have an S5 Max with the same continuous error.

great review.Tough and great for the kids

The 300, straight 6 or 4.9ltr was the best of Fords 6 cylinder engine line

Spray the entire bottom side of your car with WD-40//some kind of rust Keep the bottom of your car oily

What a fun little project! Well done!

Good luck with the Sniper. We are on the 3 Rd one in 3,000 miles.

Looks lije its coming along nicely Ant.👍🏻

Very well sir