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LOL, that might work fine in the tropics, but not where I live!

Thank you!

Thank you!

I live in a fairly hilly town and 2nd gear with auto assist is fine, except for our driveway which is very, very steep. I usually drop down to first gear and max assist to get up the driveway.

My last mower was the cheapest Craftsman in stock at the local Sears and it lasted 16 years. The Kohler engine in that mower had a few bolts on top of the engine, underneath the flywheel that were prone to coming loose, backing out of the block until they were hit by the flywheel. I didn't know about the flaw until I was mowing one day and the engine stopped suddenly and there was a big chunk of engine block with a bolt sticking out on the lawn. The inside of the engine looked like new and the cylinder walls looked great. If I had known about the problematic bolts I could have removed them, added some thread lock compound and retorqued than and I'd be still using that mower today. My dad always suggested keeping our cars tanks full to reduce condensation, and I did it for many years, but I haven't thought about that advice in ages. Some years I've ru all the gas out of my chainsaw, blower, string trimmer and mower and stored them dry, other years I've filled them to the rim, most years I store them with whatever gas is in them. Everything has plastic tanks now, so without the concern about a metal tank rusting, I don't worry about the plastic gas containers in the shed being only 1/4 full and I'm not concerned about the plastic gas tanks fuel level either. I am very careful about storing cat food and bird food so as to not attract mice. I feed some feral cats in town and I keep a big bag of cat food in large galvanized garbage with bungee cords holding the lid on tight can behind the shed where my lawn equipment is stored. Bird food is kept in plastic containers in the house. I used to keep the bird food in the shed, but started having a mouse problem in the shed. With nothing in the shed to eat the mice have moved on. I would not poison mice since we have a lot of owls in the woods. If I had a mouse problem I'd probably set some traps with peanut butter.

I'm pleased with the sound quality of my current setup (iPad - Marantz DAC). I only wish Apple would come up with a better way to have remote screen and remote control between two Apple devices (iPad - iPad, iPad - iPhone) than the clunky 'Control Nearby Devices'.

@@Koolbob2 then the best option is simply using the iPad where you sit and connecting a longer USB cable. 5m should be no problem, for longer there are extension options.

@@gdehoon3604 Not the most elegant solution, but definitely a good option.

@@Koolbob2 Cheap too :-).

Noisy… they are battery powered and you connect through USB where noise is no issue, it’s digital. The Eversolo is mains powered, a lot more noise there.

@ Nah there is jitter , these machines are not focused on audio , they are multi function apparatus,. That’s why the Eversolo need an upgrade with a Linear Power Supply from LHY and a LAN connection with an Ifi Silencer. At the end of the day you can AB test and your ears don’t lie. Ofc your system must be resolving enough to hear the difference.

@@robertwang7825 nonsense to make you buy expensive things. The RME dac has its own clock. And can do a bitperfect check on their sample files. Works perfect with an iPad.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your Eversolo. Which screens are mirroring well for you? Mirroring the Eversolo's native screens to my iPad or iPhone worked fairly well, but mirroring the Apple Music screens from the Eversolo to my iPad or iPhone was terrible with massive pixelation, lag and lock-ups.

Hmmm. If you removed the magnet then you've removed half of the speaker and it shouldn't be capable of making a sound.

Integrated amps with A / B / A+B speaker selector switches appear to be out of vogue. I ended up trying and loving a Marantz Model 30 amp and it only has a single set of speaker terminals. If you want to switch between two pairs of speakers you may need to buy an external speaker selector.

Thanks for watching! I'm using the Belkin 'Audio + Charge Rockstar' adapter to keep my iPad powered while it's connected to my DAC. The screen stays on until I manually put the iPad to sleep my touching the power button. www.apple.com/shop/product/HKKP2ZM/A/belkin-lightning-audio-charge-rockstar?fnode=8fbab05dbbc551e575b60c2009807defaa2ed362c4f5bf200e7ad8229c48b253f00c44e7ecc7ce6edd1abcd62cb5ccb235a52efbe875278b4ce2b810f210a4085d6bddcfd199347cb0f78fe4f10bbc4db211b3f476c6f8e6d4bd0cd380a669fc

Maybe, I've never attempted anything like this, but it should be possible. First you need to set up your iMac to play lossless music... support.apple.com/en-us/118295 Now you need to figure out how to send the signal to the wiim pro plus. Airplay 2 doesn't support lossless so you need to establish either a digital or analog connection between the iMac and wiim pro plus. If it were me I'd research if there's a way to send lossless audio out from the iMac via USB. If there's not a way to send the signal digitally, then you could always run a patch cable from the headphone out on the iMac to an Audi in on the wiim pro plus (you may need a cable or device that can step down the relatively high signal of the headphone output down to RCA level).

@@Koolbob2 thanks !! quite a rabbit hole to get where I am now--at this point I might as well bypass the wiim and go right into the optical input on my old yamaha amp---the funny thing is none of the top end streaming services via the wiim sounded as good as free spotify did using the app on my LG-oled to optical to yahama....no matter how i tweaked the settings/eq /room correction etc... Apple music does sound good however but the LG app and airplay2 as you know don't support 24/192--not even my imac can play it--hopefully the cable trick works-I'll hang on to the wiim for now as it will tell me the source quality being received/played once my cable arrives.

There's nothing special about the charger that comes with the Ryobi, any UDB-C PD capable adapter would work.

@@Koolbob2 Thanks

Thanks for the heads up, but alas the Cambridge eco-75/150 only support Apple Airplay 2, which I already have built into my current Marantz CD60n. From the Cambridge website.. "Although Apple Music is not currently built into any of our units or integrated via the StreamMagic app, you can still play content from your Apple Music account to your Network Player. You can stream from Apple Music to your Network Player using AirPlay from a compatible Apple device." "This product supports AirPlay 2 and requires your mobile device to be running iOS 11.4 or later." Until a better option comes along I'll stick with my three currently available options: iPad to DAC via USB (100% lossless, 44.1, 96 & 192 kHz) Cost = 'free' because I already had an unused iPad. Apple AirPlay 1 from my iPhone to an Apple AirPort Express to DAC via Optical (Mostly lossless at 44.1kHz) Cost = $15 to buy AirPort Express model A1264 on eBay. Apple Airplay 2 from my iPhone to Marantz CD50n (not lossless). Cost = Free.

I don't get the time or weather to ride as much as I would like, but I still love my Momentum e-bike. I bet yours will look great with the Brooks seat!

Glad the video was helpful! I've been told that the Soundlink Mini II battery different and needs to be soldered in so doublecheck your Soundlink to be sure you get the right battery.

Good question and unfortunately I can't answer that one since I've only used Apple Music. Obviously the iPad hardware is capable of switching, so I guess it's up to the app developers to get their programing right for it to switch automatically.

I'm not familiar with Apple Music on an xbox. If you can select 'Lossless' or 'Lossless Hi-Res' within the app then I think it should work. Here's the link that explains how to select 'Lossless' playback... support.apple.com/en-us/118295

Thanks for watching! I'm still driving the same Ridgeline and it still makes me smile every time I get behind the wheel.

You got it! It's not the most elegant solution but it works.

Hello, nice Video! Can you access the Marantz DAC through the usb port? I own a CD6006 and the iPad doesn’t recognize the DAC of the CD using lightning camera adapter and usb cable.

@@pablosanzsanz2239 Yes, I'm using a Belkin Rockstar lightning port adapter that plugs into the iPad and provides both a lightning charging port and a USB-A port. I've got a AudioQuest USB 2.0 A-B Forest cable plugged in between the Belkin adapter and the Marantz CD50n's USB-DAC port.

@ Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I can tell that you have a direct usb-b DAC access on you CD. The difference is that the usb-a port on my Marantz CD6006 is prepared for playing the content of iPod/iPhone/iPad, but it is not a direct access to the DAC. When I use a camera adapter and a usb A-A cable, it does not recognize the source.

Thank you! Good to hear my efforts are useful!

@ yes sir. Very useful. Technical details are right at the level that I could understand, analyze. Please continue educating us. Also love your simple yet effective setup. I actually wanted a simple setup like yours , Vinyl + CD+Apple Music. I gave up on vinyl as I learnt it’s a very expensive rabbit hole. Also CDs, yet undecided, probably I’ll pause it for sometime. But I am really kicked about Digital to Analogue route via Apple Music. It’s included part of my cell phone plan which is company paid. All I had to do was to buy good speakers and an all in one DAC/Amp. Btw, I don’t know why do I feel that you are from Seattle too?

There are a plethora of devices that let you connect a mobile device running the Apple Music device to your stereo over Bluetooth, but they are not Lossless, CD quality or Hi-Res. As I understand it the only two network streamers that you can run the Apple Music App on natively are the Eversolo models and the Fiio R7. Both are essentially Android based units that the Apple Music App thinks are phones and both units also have build in DACs. The Eversolo units are supposed to 'cast' the information on the Apple Music App running on the Eversolo unit to your mobile phone so you can control the Eversolo from your phone. It would be great if it worked reliably, but it was very buggy, laggy and did not function as well as I had hoped. I now have three ways to play Apple Music on my stereo: iPad to DAC via USB (100% lossless, 44.1, 96 & 192 kHz) Cost = 'free' because I already had an unused iPad. I can't control the iPad remotely other than play/pause and skip track with a bluetooth remote. Apple AirPlay 1 from my iPhone to an Apple AirPort Express to DAC via Optical (Mostly lossless at 44.1kHz) Cost = $15 to buy AirPort Express model A1264 on eBay. Easy and intuitive remote control using my iPhone from my listening position. Apple Airplay 2 from my iPhone to Marantz CD50n (not lossless). Cost = Free. Easy and intuitive remote control using my iPhone from my listening position.

@ Thanks Sir. It’s very frustrating why Apple does everything in half especially music. Their whole music ecosystem is half baked, closed and annoying despite being ubiquitous and present in almost every home.

@ sir, on the third option, looks like Apple has a feature to control nearby devices through accessibility settings. Did you try these steps. If not can you try and let us know your experience. Yes, you can control music on an iPad from an iPhone using the Control Nearby Devices feature: Ensure both devices are signed into the same Apple ID and connected to the same Wi-Fi network or Bluetooth On the iPhone, go to Settings > Accessibility > Control Nearby Devices Select the iPad to control Use the control panel on the iPhone to interact with the iPad To access more controls, including play/pause buttons, select the three dots icon You can also use the iTunes Remote app to control Apple Music, iTunes, and the Apple TV app from an iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch.

@@SrikanthPRABHA7 Yes, I did get that to work, but it's very limited in function (similar to using the bluetooth remote with the iPad). Ideally I'd like to browse albums (with artwork), artist or songs from a device in my hand and have it play at CD quality or better on the device. I can get very close to that goal with Airplay 1 from my phone or I can give up the remote capability and be assured of a lossless playback with the iPad connected directly to the USB-DAC.

@ I just tested it. You are right. It’s almost there but not fully. Wish we had some kind of mirror function between iPhone and iPad or between two Apple handheld devices. Apple is crazy 😁

Yea, heaters and electric blankets need a LOT of current to make the heating elements hot. It would take a generator or enormous battery power supply to run any heating device.

But Apple Carplay plays Apple Music, not qobuz or tidal

@ what makes you think that? Both Tidal and Qobuz have iOS apps that work well in CarPlay. I used wired CarPlay in my Volvo V90 with B&W sound system and it sounds absolutely awesome. I have both Apple Music and Qobuz subscriptions (switched from Tidal because I prefer Qobuz’ catalogue and focus, as well as its integration with Audirvana).

Thanks for watching, glad to hear the video was helpful!

Thanks, it's good to know the video was helpful!

@@Koolbob2 I also use an iPad as a source. Playing apple music and tidal as well as dsd through the onkyo HF app. The way I control the iPad remotely (iPad is connected through usb to my dac) is through accessibility in the iPhone you can control nearby devices. Unfortunately you can not search for music but you can go fwd and bwd in you playlist. My alternative is audiorvana through my mbp which you can access remotely with the audiorvana remote app and through it you can do everything. In addition with audiorvana you can access all your streaming services including internet radio through one interface as well as your local music from your internal or external hard disk. I have the old desktop version which was a one time buy and works still ok. However lately I got the studio version which is a subscription service for about 60$ when on offer. From friends I hear that Roon is the best service but is a bit too expensive in my opinion.

Thanks for watching, I love using Apple Music to discover new artist and I'm quite satisfied with the three very low cost non-Android/Eversolo options I have available for Apple Music. iPad to DAC via USB (100% lossless, 44.1, 96 & 192 kHz) Cost = 'free' because I already had an unused iPad. Apple AirPlay 1 from my iPhone to an Apple AirPort Express to DAC via Optical (Mostly lossless at 44.1kHz) Cost = $15 to buy AirPort Express model A1264 on eBay. Apple Airplay 2 from my iPhone to Marantz CD50n (not lossless). Cost = Free. If I find music I really like I prefer to have it in a physical format like CD or LP. I only purchase New to Mint+ vinyl because I have a very low tolerance for surface noise. I do purchase a fair amount of CDs from thrift stores as well as new CDs.

Don't u get bored listening to the same CD song and not getting streaming suggestions to hear new songs?

Long story that I'll be making another video about very soon, but I talked with a Crutchfield advisor and he suggested I try a pair of DALI Opticon 2 Mk2 speakers since I now have two subs (another long story). The Opticons project vocals and a huge soundstage unlike any other speaker I've heard. I have two chairs a few feet apart and I can sit in either chair and hear a wide, balanced soundstage and hear both channels clearly and at virtually equal volume. How is this possible?!? The only place where they fall short of being my perfect speakers is dynamics, after all there's only so much a small speaker can do. Another conversation with Crutchfield and I'm boxing up the Opticons today and expecting a pair of DALI Oberon 9s to arrive soon...

The amp I paired them easily drove the Polk R700s as well as my Omni Sound TCM3, KEF LS50s, Acoustat 2+2 and Martin Logan electrostatic speakers to uncomfortable listening levels with lots of power to spare. My issue with the Polks was their rolled off high frequencies and slightly muddy bass. It was something I experienced only with the Polks.

@Koolbob2 Thanks for your insight. I was wanting to upgrade to them but will have to think twice. I own the signature S60 and they are really good. Thought I should go with this model since it's in the same family.

@@gueriwasagueriwasa7920 Short version of a long story, I now have a pair of very nice subwoofers and wanted to try stand mount (aka bookshelf) speakers. After a long conversation with the good folks at Crutchfield they directed me toward a pair of DALI Opticon 2 Mk2 speakers. WOW, huge soundstage, biggest sweet spot I've ever experienced, great detail without fatigue, loved everything about them but after a few weeks with them I was missing the dynamics of my Omni Sound floor standers. Called the good folks at Crutchfield again and the Opticons are going back today and I'm expecting a pair of DALI Oberon 9 to arrive later this week. Can't wait to get them!

@@Koolbob2 thanks for the update. You are an audiophile since you have ears for fine sound. Keep us posted when you find the one

You're not the first one to report having a more difficult to replace battery. I'm curious to know if the difficult ones are early models or were made after the easy to replace units. What's your serial number?

@@Koolbob2 This video is for a Mini 1. Mine was a Mini 2. It's a shame that they made this first model easy to do a battery swap, but made the next model (mini 2) way more complicated and expensive than the mini 1.

Um...I threw away all the documents when I bought this thing ( silver with "cradle base" ) Bose Soundlink Mini is all it says on the top above the buttons...probably in 2014? Anyway it never holds a charge unless it is plugged in. About ready to find a different brand of Bluetooth Speaker. Most likely any battery I buy on Amazon will be junk! Just venting and thanks for your post as well.

Glad the video is helpful! Have a look at the battery inside your BOSE SoundLink before you order a replacement. Apparently some units have batteries that need to be soldered into place.

@ i had already bought the battery and it was the correct one. A video i had watched a few weeks ago the guy was tearing the speaker apart to replace the battery. Evidently that was for the Minilink ll. My model was just the Minilink. Evidently Bose made it harder to replace on the minilink ll.

@@Mike318Ohio Glad to hear yours was as easy to replace as mine was!

Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know the content is helpful!

I've seen the tape & CA glue trick used by woodworkers many times, but I fear that any tape able to stick better than the hot glue would be too difficult to remove. The glue did stick better and better with each application, I think the stainless steel surface must have some residual oil or lubricant from when it was stamped at the factory. I used the same kit to mostly remove some door dings on my truck and it definitely stuck better to the trunk paint than it did to the stainless steel.

I just googled for a bit and couldn't find a part number for that clip. I'd say put the old, smaller clip in for now and call or visit your nearest Honda dealer parts department.

@Koolbob2 any idea why that clip is replaced as a part of this work? I don't understand why it's needed. The new clip seems to not have any impact on the cable.

@@Fullzebra105 A handful of early second-generation Ridgeline owners have had the original purple cable clip break, rendering the side swing tailgate release inoperable. It's not frequent enough to justify a recall or even a technical service bulletin, but when Honda decided to add a tailgate lock to newer models they went ahead and substituted a more substantial purple cable clip.

I'm currently trying out a pair of Dali Opticon 2 MK2 speakers that are 4 ohm and not nearly as efficient as the R700. I've left the system playing for days to break in the Dali speakers and the amp is barely warm.

También son más sensibles 86,5 db, y los R700 89 db creo. Más fáciles de manejar entre comillas. Marantz 40n trabaja a casi 120 watt a 4 omhs y aparte tiene un transformador toroidal, que entrega grandes reservas de corriente continua. Hace tiempo quise comprar los monitor audio silver 500 7g, y me decían muchas personas que el Marantz 40n era bajo en potencia para los 500 y lo probamos en una tienda y los movía sin problema, gracias al transformador toroidal. No sé si has probado o escuchado Marantz 40n con los R700. Gracias por contestar .

@@Osuna.. Sorry, but I don't have any experience with the the Marantz 40n.

Gracias de todas formas. Un saludo desde España.

Thanks for watching! I still have and enjoy my Transend E+, but we traded in my wife's Vida E+ for a newer low-step Vida E+ that is easier for her to get on and off. Absolutely zero regrets on our bikes! I saw where they are on sale and I've shared the link with several friends who are on the fence about getting Ebikes. The new Vida E+ has the lower gearing and 26" tires and although peddle assist cuts off at 20mph the smaller tires and lower gearing make it really peppy when starting from a stop and it climbs steep hills with less effort. My Transend will go up to 28mph, but I don't go that fast very often. The Vida has a very upright, relaxed rider position, much like a cruiser bike, whereas the Transend is has a slightly more athletic riding position that reminds me of the old 10-speed bike I rode in the 70s. I removed one of the 1" spacers on the handlebar stem so I could lower the handlebars on my Transend. Not sure if the new versions have a pair of spacers on the stems like our bikes.

Wow, that's great price! I still love mine and I don't miss having a derailer at all! Three tips for getting the most out of the hub gears: 1-Don't 'multi-shift' click the gear controller one click at a time. for example, don't crank it from 1 to 4 all at once. 2-Unlike detailers, you don't need to be peddling to change gears, you can even change gears at a complete stop. It's ok to shift while you're peddling, but avoid shifting under load. 3-The only cable on our bikes is the shift cable, the brakes are hydraulic. I did need to readjust the shifter several times when the bike was new and the cable stretched out as it was getting broken in. to check the shifter adjustment shift to 1st gear, click to 2, 3, and finally 4th gear. Look through the small, clear plastic inspection window on the hub and you will see two white lines. If they don't line up, then turn the adjuster barrel where the shift cable enters the handgrip shifter until the lines on the hub line up. There are several videos on youTube that explain this procedure. Check back in and let me know how you like the bike!

I’m also considering ordering one while it’s on sale, I was confused seeing such a massive discount over the original price

@@drewhender3999 I think it's a combination of a saturated market and seasonal drop in demand for bikes following the Christmas holidays.

@@Koolbob2 I’ve since ordered one based on numerous recommendations and also I’ve watched a lot of your videos which have been super helpful, thanks for that!

@@drewhender3999 Awesome! Please circle back and let us know how you like it!