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Does this process skim, then body aid with pin holes reducing the risk of bubbles in the top coat?

@@jayson-8202 Thank You. The wet-on-wet process should not affect the layer on the bottom if it’s the same product. One caveat to this could be if the skim coat was also being used as a coat to fill surface damage like nail pops or spalls. As an example, deeper damage being filled by the first epoxy layer, then disrupting that by the second layer, could cause a later surface deflection. In this instance the floor was skimmed only to fill the micro porosity and small voids.

@@jayson-8202 while I have yet to find any process that guarantees all bubbles will be prevented with one skim coat, this method will reduce their likelihood or at least the prevalence of bubbles.

@@sheriffgafar over this slab, yes. It’s a very porous concrete because of entrapped air and the sand aggregate type. Not all are like this but it can be a common occurrence.

@@joshjones8047 ♥️ thanks Josh, what would be best option in that case , water base epoxy or maybe add more xylene to the primer?

@@sheriffgafar either choice will help but some slabs simply can’t be filled with one coat. This makes it difficult for the installer to predict, but some close inspection will help to accurately estimate labor and material.

@@nicholaswirth1011 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment. The ones I’ve seen from your area really do look like solid craftsmanship at work. Thanks again-

@@CameronJames13 the final treatment over the flake floor is Polyaspartic. Sometimes it’s done with two coats. My preference is one coat at 16 mils(100SF/gallon) volume.

@@jamieclarke6623 yes. The urethane style of grout is for the surface porosity. Holes larger than a pencil lead are better treated with epoxy and marble dust. For the smaller holes (pin sized), the urethane used here does well enough to fill them.

Ok thanks for your help 👍🏻

@@joshjones8047do you have any recommendations of what grout product to use?

Do you have a name for grout product?

@@jamieclarke6623 yes. It’s called PCF45 made by Smith Paints: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=poly-pcf-45

@@spiritualdispensary8214 sure. The benefit to using a thickened epoxy for this purpose is the mixture holding its form until it hardens. Regular 100% solids and sand tends to sag. Still, your idea will probably work. If you have time, I would recommend you do a small test to verify the mixture and the performance.

@@hhattingh Thank You

@@alexaraujo6766 so helpful. Thank You. ❤️

@@gennadiisemiuglov6817 sure thing. The product is called PolyJF. Here is an online supplier: buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/manufacturers/smith-paints/poly-jf-semi-rigid-joint-filler/

@@eb9832 that’s a good question. A grinder “could” do this but 3/4” is quite a bit to grind down. For that much removal I’d bring a scarifier to remove the bulk and then grind it the rest of the way. An alternative to this is remove some of the high spots and fill up the lows with underlayment. This isn’t a perfect solution either but it’s another option.

@@HENSLEYDMB thank you. Agreed. That’s a great combo too.

@@michaelpechbrenner614 Thank You. The epoxy and marble powder are used because they polish well enough to blend with the concrete. Silica sand tends to stay dull despite the polishing. It would be durable but not reflective. Thanks again-

@@stickymonsters5158 when you say “resin patio” I’m assuming there’s a decorative coating already installed. If you can degloss the surface by sanding (make a mechanical profile), the linked water based product below will work. If making a mechanical profile is not possible, then a solvent based urethane or acrylic product for exterior use would work. Products like these usually only require a good cleaning or pressure washing. A few terms to search on google that might help narrow down your options would be “decorative concrete sealer”, “urethane floor coating” or “exterior acrylic sealer”. Hope this helps. Water based urethane: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=polyurethane-wb

@@joshjones8047 thanks i will look into it yes is a resin bound patio 2 part poly resin mixed gravel flatened

@@davidedwards3052 thanks for the request. For a shop and chemical repellency, I’d choose for a coating. Regular maintenance and correct cleaning chemicals will help to extend the coating’s appearance but they will eventually need to be replaced. Our business is located in Morris IL.

@@sulaimanalzubairy193 thanks so much. Flaking the bottom of the treads is possible but it likely will take a few thin coats to build up a uniform appearance. I would mix a small amount of resin and apply a thin layer. Then, with a gloved hand, press the flake. It will be time consuming but I can’t think of a better way to do this.

@@sheriffgafar this particular patch product is called Ardex CD FINE. www.ardexamericas.com/product/ardex-cd-fine/

@@joshjones8047 thank you

@@josevillanueva9705 Thank You

Hard to say since there are many ways to make a similar finish. A rough guess is $10/SF minimum. This would depend on market and job size. Sorry I can’t give a more definitive answer.

@@joshjones8047 I got 37,000 SF in Texas. Do you have different ways of this system on your channel ?

@@srushtimachhi4327 happy to help. The diamond tools under the grinder were 80 grit. Under the sander, the grit was also an 80 grit. This combination was done for flattening the epoxy and flake (grinder) and smoothing the metal diamond scratches (sander).

@@timothyrauch3288 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment.

@@YouDontTalkAboutFightClub you’re welcome. Glad to read that it helps. The product is made by 3M and it goes by the name Hi Pro Strip. This one is a 17”. For removing roller lines, it’s hard to say if it will work for this. It depends on how thick the line/ridge is and also the material type. One thing to note about de-glossing a floor is that it’s ready for another protective coat. If only left de-glossed, it will be more prone to stains and reduced resistance to regular abrasion caused by use. Thanks again-

@@joshjones8047 Very well said. Thank you so much! I’m torn on what to do. My contractor had cut the coat of polyaspartic with Xylene and thus it went on a little thin. I like the texture of the flakes but it’s almost as if the texture is too much as in just a little too much flake protruding. The aluminum oxide powder made the sheen not so shinny-which I like. I’m a tad worried about the long term durability of my thin coat of polyaspartic…and the faint roller lines (only seen when standing outside the garage looking in) bother me. I might just bite the bullet, scuff it, and re-coat it. Only problem I can think of is if I can mix the 2 gal 1:1 polyaspartic kit, adding the aluminum oxide, pouring it on the floor in lines, using a squeegee to spread it and then back rolling it with an 18” wide roller…all by myself. And I’m just a regular dude who happens to be a little handy. But I’m not a pro. The floor was poured on 8/7/24. If I plan it out and have everything in place and ready to go, all while wearing the proper PPE and putting safety first I think I can do it : )

@@YouDontTalkAboutFightClub you’re welcome. Happy to help. Turns out I can’t post the pic of the same test over the flake. The flake I have isn’t probably as glossy as yours. I’ll edit what I did to prep the flake and the results. Then I’ll post that separately. Hopefully it will help to give an idea how to change your finish gloss. Thanks-

@@joshjones8047 If I need to pour a second layer of polyaspartic over my first layer of polyaspartic (which was poured over flakes) can I simply scuff the surface, then clean the surface and then apply a new coat of polyaspartic? Thanks.

@joshjones8047 Or would scuffing the surface cause the flakes underneath to appear cloudy after I pour the second layer of polyaspartic?

@@fightclub-rule-1 good question. The other video I did showed the scuffing. Still need to edit it. There is one I did last year. Let me find the link and share that. To answer your question, they might appear a bit more flat but not cloudy. The scuffing will be wetted out by the fresh layer of Polyaspartic.

@@fightclub-rule-1 here’s a way I was shown to scuff Polyaspartic. There’s a video I did the other day but need to edit a bit to post it. This one is a few years old: th-cam.com/video/iiqIKLTjNBo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dN8bDVhRNmeXrGU6

@@loes9492 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment.

@@VK-pc4vn good question. There was no scratch test done. It was probably a six or seven below the surface layer. The choice was a 10 segment 30 grit with no weight to lightly grind it. The only purpose of the work was to knock down the trowel marks and random rough spots. It seemed like a solid concrete mix but the top needed some smoothing.

@@YouDontTalkAboutFightClub that’s a good question. There is a way to make it less glossy but I only know how to do it with another product. The options would be another coat of Polyaspartic with anti-slip additive (to reduce some of the gloss) or a water based urethane that is rated a semi-gloss or satin. I have some shiny flake floor at the shop. Tomorrow I’ll throw a coat of water based over it and share the pics here on Monday.

@@joshjones8047 You are amazing! Thank you for going out of your way to help me!

@@YouDontTalkAboutFightClub you’re welcome. Happy to help.

@@YouDontTalkAboutFightClub this morning I finished a video comparing satin urethane to a Polyaspartic. It shows the difference in clarity and the plastic look. The flake I have here isn’t as shiny as yours probably is, but I’ll post those pics shortly. th-cam.com/video/wPZxZWxCHg0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GReZ4s-M7SEeF2th

@@RageCityBiscuit thanks. Last month I picked up some Velcro straps. You are correct. Much easier. Thanks again-

@@AshrafElziftawiMusic correct. That’s the way this one was done.

@@LuxuryEpoxyForCement that’s one way to put it. From the perspective of the coating it needs a surface fully clean and absorbent. A grinder does great to clean a surface. The dust it leaves behind, though, gets packed into the pores it just opened. Blasting extracts the dust. For some it may be excessive. In my view it’s extensive.

@@joshjones8047 it’s definitely going about as above and beyond as it gets lol no stiff bristle brush & leaf blower in the trailer?

@@martindekker8203 good question. If the surface is well troweled and flat, and the spec is a light salt and pepper, a copper bond will do well enough to open the floor. The grits would be 100 copper, 200/400 copper (both steps wet), 800, 1500 and 3000 resin (these steps dry). These days most floors seem to be getting finished up to a 800 and then guarded. For the same polish result as in the video, it would be a five step system of pad type tools only. No metals would be necessary. This assumes the concrete is well placed and fine sand aggregate is all that’s to be exposed.

@@joshjones8047 You'd still need to seal it right? What about bathroom/shower?

@@martindekker8203 “seal” it? No. Densifier would still be needed for abrasion resistance, but polished concrete doesn’t require a film forming product to perform. In a bathroom/shower, I’d choose a different system. One option would be what’s called a “Grind and Seal”. This amounts to grinding the concrete to expose the sand/aggregate. Then it’s coated with a clear urethane or other chemical resistant product made to protect concrete.

@@CoachMak prepmaster75@gmail.com is my email.

@@dougkooistra6265 that’s a good point. This stuff is formulated for holding flake. It’s not really useful for a solid color floor, but it has a viscosity high enough to support flake. As far as advantages, I like it because it’s easy to apply and gives plenty of time to work it. The other benefit is it cures quick (after working time) similar to a Polyaspartic. The drawback would be it’s only a 46% solids epoxy. Maybe this is a moot point when used in a residential garage, but it is less solids than a traditional 100%.

@@Kinglivs that’s a good question. The concern about an epoxy skim is the difference in color once sealed. If a solvent based sealer is used, then an epoxy grout would blend fine. An epoxy would be a more comprehensive grouting product, but the floor would take on the darker look attributed to solvent based systems.

@@jonathanrobertson5475 sure thing. Our shop is in Morris IL but I’m usually on the road. Feel free to email me at prepmaster75@gmail.com.

@@matthewryancorsiglia8695 please email me at prepmaster75@gmail.com

@@morristhe3rd thanks so much. The tape is called Clean Green from Bron Tapes. buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/manufacturers/bron-tapes/bt-4736-clean-green-roll/ As far as the leaks, it can leak too if the surface is too textured. It does work pretty well and pulls easy enough as long as the resin doesn’t harden. Thanks again-

@@carloscortes4312 thanks for the positive comment. I appreciate it.

The material is steel shot. This is the abrasive the machine uses to clean and profile the concrete. The machine is called a shotblaster. This one is made by IMPACTS GmbH: substratetechnology.com/product/impacts-s210e-shot-blaster-8-inch/

@@Andrew-nq7oy thanks so much. I appreciate it. Outside I forego the mask but in garages I do use one. Not an excuse but the reason I didn’t have one here. Also, this is a low-odor formula. Thanks again. I appreciate it.

@@adventureswithbrazos5253 thanks so much. I appreciate it.

What poly did you use?

@@matthewryancorsiglia8695 this one is made by Walt Tools. Here’s a link to the product: www.walttools.com/product/polyaspartic-polyaspartic-coating-copy/

Thanks so much for the kind words. Happy to be of service sharing what I’ve learned so far. Thanks again and happy Monday.

Yes. This is the Jr. The slab is much more dense from polishing than a traditional troweled slab but it still achieved more than 200SF/hour average. On a slab that’s simply dirty and non-coated,400SF/hour is the average expectation.