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Good idea thanks ❤

ahh dude. Why u are doing rusted suface test if u dont give it time. U need a long time to see the results for neitralisation. U just tested sealing capeabilieties... u could just aplied regular lacker and would come out great. Covered rust spots continue to degrade metal slowly but realy badly. That just wont hapen under a short time of period under the influence of salt water that has no chance to reach the metal.

👍👍👍. Thank you

Unfortunately the use case of these products in this video is wrong. Neither Brunox nor Fertan are meant to be used as a final/top layer. They are meant as a first layer you put on rust so that rust is transformed and the newly created layer can then be cleaned up and a base coat can be applied (and a finishing coat after that). So this test unfortunately proves nothing.

Didn't work for me, the edge end up worst and wouldn't cut paper. I tried going in one direction only and managed to achieve burr. I removed it on a sharpening rod by going sideways and not up and down so it folds back. Still not that great

You deserve more subs

For the algorithm!!

Thank you for sharing, very helpful and informative.

I enjoyed your tutorial very much, I use a Ortur LM2 Pro laser engraver that came with a 10w and upgraded to a 20w module and use Lightburn as well. I was wondering what wattage your laser machine is. I hope to see a few more tutorials from you in the near future

My favorite Shakespeare Sturdy Stik 7’ Medium action is 40 years old and I finally had to replace a tip and an insert. I watched your video and it was very informative. Thank you. My rod is now as good as new. I could have bought a new one for $50 but I’d much rather keep this Old Faithful. Cheers.

probably not an accurate representation. You should put some carrots or some sort of filling.

Thanks!

thats what a fuckin YT should be for mainly! for spreading knowledge ! :D

Did you try changing the interval? To 0,05 mm? I bought this machine. Still waiting for it to come. I want to engrave some things for my company. Some machines, some business cards and even cut some plastic for some projects. Hope this goes well.

I would burnish it for finish. Take a burnisher (or the back of a 8 mm drill) and smooth out the flat surface and the burr up.

Great tips, my friend

Thank you for this. It was very helpful

A while ago I thought I'd make it very smart and flip my 4 stroke lawnmower upside down to sharpen it. Man that was a mess😂

Of all the sharpening videos I have watched yours has been the easiest and most clear to watch and understand.

My Blender is very sharp now

You would have had a much better result with the brass, if you had attached a sacrificial piece of wood, with holes drilled where you wanted to punch the rasps. Then when you punched the rasps, the brass would not have deformed. You would have also had a neat arrangement of holes, so your final product would look much cleaner. Also, it would have been nice to see you use it.

1.89/2$ an Aliexpress. It is worth exactly that. I use them as disposable items in my garage for sharpening tools and gardening equipment.

informative and succinct, thank you.

Thats amazing!!! i didn't know i had a Laser!

I too question the overall effectiveness of Fertan. I recently acquired an old steel narrowboat and have stripped back with a Tercoo blaster and then Fertaned any remaining rust patches. After leaving to work for the advised time period then scrubbing off with water I find that many patches bloom up brahman orange with rust within a day or so (no rain). Somewhat disappointing. I think the best thing to do is strip back with poly strip abrasive discs and epoxy immediately. Although this is far from practical when painting a whole boat cabin

'Promosm'

Are this grinders available in the U.S and what is the price.

Thanx a lot for this informative Video. Could you do once one on the topic of the different grit-standards? I hone my straigth razor on a coticule. They say, it has a grit-range of 6‘000 to 8‘000, but no one can tell me, if it’s the japanese or the european standard. My question is, if I can increase the sharpness with a 12‘000 jnat.

The higher grits increase edge retention mostly, the coarse when will need sharpening a lot sooner.

anyone with basic skills can get better edges with nothing more than single sheet of budget bin sandpaper than most of these youtube wankers with $1500 finnikcy setups. The point is, you don't need anything other than skills. A guy with basic skills will get better results off a literal brick from the garden. That lansky is outdated obsolete junk. Not worth it for $10 much less what they charge. I wouldn't take one for free. It's a waste of time and low quality junk. Yeah my granddad used one too, but wtf did they know? Those dmt plates aren't great either. They're vastly overpriced and wear out quicky. All of them have grit contamination and leave extremely deep and stray scratches. But yes they actually work and you can get good edges with it. I'd take basically any Japanese waterstone over either of those things. The issue is, folks are getting ripped off thinking waterstones cost 2x what they actually do. That $275 10k naniwa chosera they sell of sharpening supplies you can get elsewhere, yes in the US, for $60 full price in 15 mm thickness rather than 30 mm. A 1k shapton pro they're charging $60 for costs $25 in Japan. if you really wanted a fixed system, I'd suggest an edgo pro clone. it's one of the least finnicky and gimmicky systems. Order a clone from China for $50 and be grateful, throw in some Chinese resin bonded diamond stones in the 3" x .5" size for about $10 each and you're set. Also the water stone you are using is not intended to be used for what you are using it for. That is a Suehiro Cerax, which is a highly friable stone that's intended to be used on the wide bevels of traditional style Japanese kitchen knives. It makes no sense to use a stone like that for doing secondary bevels on western style knives. That is a great stone with modern technology if you actually use the way it's intended to be used, which like I said is for WIDE bevels. It will leave a smooth, hazy, scratch free surface on a wide bevel and create a distinct contrast between the layers of steel in a cladded, laminated or pattern welded knife. The stone wears fast and creates a great deal of mud in use. Which is what it's designed to do.

Lose the tunes and I'll come back !

I just ordered a set... the bloody bastards! Thanks for the heads up.

I believe that at th-cam.com/video/aIuDu_FUVOY/w-d-xo.html you took the tool the wrong way. 😅 I've been using it for a couple of years very occasionally, it works really great. It allows anyone to sharpen a chain almost like new, with no skill required. You just have to make sure the end with the chainsaw icon is the closest to chainsaw and that you keep the Pferd CS-X horizontal. What's nice about it as well is that it's easy to use in the forest.

👍👍👍. Thank you

Thank you ❤

Ein sehr gutes Video, alles zusammengefast, TOP👌

What settings did you use on the power supply unit? 12 volts and how many amps?

Your technique is the problem. Not the gear sir. Bur removal should be a stropping motion and you should fatigue the burr til it snaps off however you want that to happen cleanly. You are TEARING the burr and destroying the APEX of the edge.

🙂

Sweet stones, the Amazon one if left in water will crack pretty bad.

How's it on leatherette or leather

Nice vintage Mora, i also have one from 1950, but from Carl Andersson with laminated Carbonsteel, that Steel is super easy to sharpen and the Edge is like a Straight Razor when i wanted it to this Level of Sharpness. I sharpen on a not super fine japanese Naturalstone ca. 1000/1500Jis and then polishing on Charnley Forest.

Hi, thanks for this video.

good tips, thanks

Try not to put too much pressure on the stropping leather for scandi knives. You lose a lot of the flat edge at the apex. It should be just a couple of gentle passes.

Do you know of anyone being successful at electro-etching brass? I can get it to darken easily but not actually etch to any depth. Thank you , nice video!

Which open source software do you use link? Thank you.

Thanks!

Very interesting video. Keep going :)