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Yea I'll definitely be doing more in depth carb set up vids in the future. And the needle/ emulsion tube will be the focus of one.

I've found about 3 carbs this doesn't apply to (PZ19, concentric Amal, and maybe an early /2 BMW Bing). I know of one carb that has both, the KZ1300.

@@scottywhite7681 I bet you’re fun at parties.

@@KPCYCLES yep, just messed them up real good.

yea looks the same from this angle but the real magic is behind the valve covers 🤩

@oneupmotogarage great, then i will never see in this video 😭 you are arrrggggh

can't argue with that!

That's correct!

@@cotton648 did you use a cheap carb or OEM replacement?

@oneupmotogarage I did buy a cheap one to put on while I looked at the original. As I was tearing into them it is very hard to tell any difference but I'm sure there is. But with the original, my air box filled with gas so I assumed float was stuck. Got it all cleaned up, changed oil and filter and put the cheap float in the original carb and that seemed to work. It floats easy and no more gas flooding. But now it's just hard to start. It cranks and cranks and eventually starts. When it's running, it runs smooth. When it's warm it starts right up. Just seems to be When cold and it doesn't do it everytime. It's puzzling to me. It's a 2009 kingquad 400. Thanks for your help. Awesome videos

@@cotton648 Could be the float valve that was not sealing and making it flood. But usually when it's so bad as to be filling the airbox or engine with gas it's from a piece of debris lodging itself in the float valve seat and keeping the valve from closing. I deal with that a lot. Usually the floats are good unless they've cracked, and the needle valves are usually reusable too. So the hard start is happening with original carb using a spare float, could the float height be a little off? If it were set too low, could make it hard to start.

@@oneupmotogarage I will check all that out when I get back. I may just have to break down and buy a new OEM carb. $600 for a new one is crazy

@@cotton648 It's true, carbs are painfully expensive. But unless there's something broken on the original carb body itself it's usually better to reuse it and just replace the wear parts. Setting them up right is where the real magic is.

That is the idle adjustment screw. It directly moves the resting position of the slide up and down to control idle.

@@oneupmotogarage thanks

Usually start at 2.5 turns out from fully seated. But you could check for your specific model carb there is some variation.

true!

How is it acting like an air bleed screw? On those BS32's the screw is on the bottom of the carb right? You usually start at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated (it's easy to break the tip off that particular screw type). Loosening it from that setting will add fuel = richen mixture, tightening it will restrict fuel = lean mixture out.

​@oneupmotogarage (screw on top, set of 4 inline) I started out at 1.5 turns and bike acted super lean. Would idle good with choke on, rpm would rise at idle when bike gets to running temp. I moved it to 2.5 turns. Idles a lot better but misfires until it's warm. Still playing around with it. I do believe you were correct and I misdiagnosed my issue. Also also, the screw itself goes super deep into the carb. It looks like the flat side carb , but the screw doesn't petrude like that. It's fairly deep into the carb. I appreciate any help, due to not much information that I can find on this. It rubs best at 3.5 turns out, but idles low when cold, idles high when warm but runs great

@@JDKoenig the deep recessed screw is normal on street legal bikes by the 80's due to EPA requiring an anti tamper plug to be installed over all air/ fuel mixture screws. Off-road bikes and aftermarket carbs usually have the screw sticking out more for easy access. You can also buy longer screws to replace yours to adjust them more easily if you like. 3.5 turns out is an acceptable setting, once you get past 4 turns it means you need to go up a size on the pilot jet. But unless the engine is bored over or other big mods I never have found a need to change pilot sizes.

@@JDKoenig When an engine is cold it runs lean and as it warms up it richens. That's what a choke (usually an enrichment circuit on newer engines) is accounting for. So generally if the engine runs well when cold and then starts to struggle once warmed up, it's tuned too rich. If it really struggles when cold and gets better as it warms up, it's too lean. But there is some expectation for a cold engine to struggle (run a little lean) when tuned correctly, hence why they add chokes to help it warm up, then once warm it should be operating its best.

@oneupmotogarage You're a G! I think I will end up ordering new carbs. I'll tear these down to learn more about carbs myself. I think 3 was the best, it seems my air filter (factory enclosed box) was a tad loose, had to fix that and take some fuel out. Idles great now, runs decent enough to not worry about anymore. I appreciate you a whole lot. I subscribed just because you're helpful!

A carb will only have one mixture adjustment screw. Very rarely will they have 2. Starting points depend on the carb, usually if it is a fuel metering screw you start at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated. If it's an air bleed screw then you start them at 1 turn out from seated.

For these I think FRAM but I haven't been able to confirm yet.

16100-KRH-G11 is a part number of carburator

perfect! I think those run the Keihin carbs that I did another video comparing the genuine vs cheap Chinese knock off.

What if there’s two needles on the engine side?

@@elvisramos2660 did you mean to say needles? I've never seen one carb have multiple needles. Did you mean to say two screws on the engine side?

@@oneupmotogarage I think there screws there’s one under the throttle which I’m guessing is the fuel one and one on top that is for flat screwdrivers and the idle screw which is for the throttle

@@mamichulo9982 it’s a carb from a arctic cat 300 4x4

yea proper fitment can't be beat but the price sure can! I couldn't justifying spending the same amount on plastics as I paid for the whole bike.

😄 machining is satisfying work!

Yea, and many OEM filters are made by FRAM too. Including many Hondas and maybe even the one I used in this vid. Haven't confirmed that though.

Careful, wix was bought by Mann and hummel. Definitely have had a drop in build last 6 months.

🙏

@@Rider_with_soulmate idle, it moves the slide up and down.

@@SoralTheSol right now it’s about $5 vs $17

It's a good question and the truth is it's very hard to tell without an O2 sensor. By feel you learn the subtle differences in how the idle will sound when too rich vs too lean. There's usually a crackle or pops on deceleration if too lean, if it idles high or idle hangs, usually too lean. Vs if after revving the idle drops too low and then slowly comes back up to the set idle, that's a sign of too rich. I'll try to do a vid detailing that someday.

@@oneupmotogarage thanks!

Those are cool little bikes I hope to get one in someday to play with.

middle screw is idle control

ah that's even worse!

@@VIJAYzk a whole assembled girder vs a comparably sized telescopic front end the telescopic one should be quite a bit lighter.

ha awesome

He asks "would you run the cheap filter on your bike?".