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I'm so glad they're helpful! Thanks for the feedback!

Hi. Thanks so much for your comment. Yes, I've included links below for some of our training videos geared to wheelchair users. th-cam.com/video/vcS4KX73QBA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/mLqthayJrNY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/TiQB-2lEVZw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/AfmnL-JGCqo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/xGjY5B52diw/w-d-xo.html It sounds like you've had a really rough time over the last few years, and been very creative and persevering in training with him around obstacles. Given that you've already tried several things, I wouldn't want to make a recommendation off the cuff. You will get better results if I know the complete picture and can work with you and Tucker on a tailored solution. If you'd like my help addressing the leash walking issue, feel free to visit our website at atyourservicedogtraining.com or email Laurie, my office manager, at office@atyourservicedogtraining.com. I'll be happy to train with you and Tucker. All the best! - Sharon

Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply. Yesterday I found out the elevator in my building broke down and the part they need will take 4 months to get so I'm in a position of having to find a new place to live for Tucker and me ASAP that is wheelchair accessible. I will check out the recommended videos and visit your website! Thank you again!

@@swissmiss221 Oh my gosh, how awful. I'm so sorry to hear that. I hope you and Tucker land in a good, accessible place soon. Feel free to get in touch when we can be of help.

The Pet Tutor Mini is a great option. Really good remote feeder. Don't know about the cost but think it's less than that. The Manners Minder (AKA Treat & Train) is the one in this video. It definitely used to be around $125. Don't know what it is now, but you should be able to find it by looking online.

It's just a button that Molly trained her dog to hit (same idea as the Staples "Easy" button or the "talking buttons" that are popular right now. Or those button lights you can press to turn on. She trained her dog to hit the button, and every time he does, she uses the remote to dispense from the feeder. You could also rig it so the remote feeder button is under something like a larger button so your dog could trigger the remote feeder himself.

Hi Lee. Thanks for your question. I’m looking forward to having Phoenix in class! In some cases, it works well to have a lot of treats in your hand. This tends to be when you’re in a situation where you need to dispense treats very quickly, which sometimes is when you’re not using a clicker. For example, if training a long Sit or Down, and you’re trying to get a stream of treats to the dog in quick succession. Or sometimes when training a “go settle on a mat” behavior. However, in most cases it works better to either just get each treat from the pouch or hold the treats behind your back. This is because otherwise the dog just stares at the treat hand and doesn’t take in the other information. (Especially as you have a Lab, this is likely! ;-) ) So it’s a good practice to get in the habit of doing click, reach, treat. However, there are some situations where having the hand pre-loaded works great.

Thanks Sharon!

Thank you for this great question. There are a few options. The lowest-cost option would be to start standing still, using a telescoping flyswatter smeared with food (as shown in th-cam.com/video/2OTBBJ26zcQ/w-d-xo.html) which you can hold in your right hand, but will be long enough to extend to your left side, too. Give your dog’s target cue, then hold out the flyswatter. Mark as your dog is coming toward the target, and allow it a lick before you lift it up and cue for the other side. I would park yourself in front of a barrier so your dog has to go behind you to get to the other side. If you repeat this often enough, you can then add some movement. Another option is to get one or two remote feeders (such as the Treat & Train, but there are now several on the market) and put one on your left, and use your hand to treat on the right. I’ve had clients with limited dexterity who found the remotes very usable, however it’s also an option to glue a button or other small protuberance onto the remote and the you can push it against your arm rest with a fist or even your arm to activate it. Hope this helps!

M trained Lula for about a year with me, on and off, to get to this level.

Hi Michelle. I'm saying "Take." But you can use any cue you want.

Thanks, Els! I’m so glad it was helpful.

If your dog has a really negative association with the halter already, you might need to switch to one that looks very different - different color, different style. Then, so more of the first step of just showing the halter and feeding, then putting it away. You might need to just do that step for several days until your dog is thrilled just to see it. When you get that, the next step, hold the treat behind the halter and make sure you’re not moving it at all when they put their head through. We often subconsciously move the loop toward the dog.

Train without the head halter for now. Focus on rewarding your dog when the leash is loose. There's a lot more to say on this (HUGE topic!) but I can't answer that in a youtube comment. :-) Try searching youtube for "clicker training loose leash walking." Emily Larlham (Kikopup) usually has great tips.

It depends on a number of factors including how food motivated the dog is, how often you train, how high-value the food is, and how the dog feels about the halter. Usually, it takes about 3 weeks, but I have conditioned dogs to it in about a week during a board-and-traim (but I’m very skilled/experienced and this was a very food-motivated dog, and we trained on it often), and with other dogs it takes 4-6 weeks. So it really depends. Just go at the rate the dog is ready for - when it is showing it is very happy with the current stage, go on to the next.

@@atyourservicedogtraining OK Thank you.

Oh good. You're welcome!

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.