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Hi flying tools Have you consider to make the system off grid ready? In these uncertain times with two superpower leaders that are unreliable, could it become necessary

looking forward to seeing how you connect this to your inverter. I've bought a crashed atto3 for the same purpose

RX on one board goes to TX on the other

Nice tidy job - I agree it is a great way to seal plumbing

Hi! Did anyone mesure how much extra power this inverter pulls out of the battery at night when there is no pv input to support the house/load? Any updates on the issue below with the activation of the idle/standby mode? Will the recently announced SOLAX X3-NEO-LV have the same characteristics? Thanks!

Great. I have 2x tesla batteries on my home but prefer to form factor and voltage of the BYD. Looking forward to the future videos detailing the setup. Thanks for your effort.

Hi flying tools, looking forward to see more. I am right now looking for same solution. Question, the CANBus plug, could you give me some information how to get this plug. Maybe give me the partnumber, or wiring number?

Could I use this booster after my mppt as I'm getting wind but not enough to charge my battery 48v

Drömmer om att kunna köpa ett sånt här färdigt kitt till mitt fronius system! :D

Hur fungerar den lagliga delen av att koppla in en modifierad batterilösning på elnätet?

That’s a nice clean looking casing. 😛

Supper! How can we find and buy some batteries???

Nice setup. Lots of canbus things going on. That's always the difficult thing these days. Holds me off to get into this.

dala's tech with lilygo was the breakthrough needed in the ev/solar world. if you leave this outside hopefully you have the trailer tilted a little for water drainage.

Do You plan to explain more a bit? I have a 82,5 kwh.. now under the car, but I think it will be remain for here, to future use.. Do You use it in HV or LV system? ( as I know Your system is HV). Regards. Laszlo from Hungary!

What voltage did you set for 100% charge?

Ooh! Coolt! Var köpte du det batteriet? Pris?

🤔jag som trodde du skulle Skaffa ett kia Batteri😂😂. Men det där blir ju också bra😜. Ser redan framemot nästa film 🎥😎👍

It is LFP battery. That chemistry is much safer than NMCD. Not burn at all. I must said, I'm not tested it yet. Did you think about bring battery to the garage? It is your decision I just asking. Btw. Good job.

Coolt!! Det där vill man se mer av!! 🤩😃

Riktigt häftigt! Grymt jobbat! 👍

Awesome......👌

We are looking to install one of these units for charging our 48v Industrial Flooded Lead Acid battery bank. The higher voltage may be what we are looking for to keep the batteries in a higher state of charge. Thank you for posting you video!

How much energy per day does the heater consume at -20decC outside?

Mmmm. Eple.

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

It's just beauty

Hey is there any way of contacting You ?

Hey You do amazing stuff is there any way of contacting You ?

on a bigger unit ??ger out board is there away to take out the gas block and install an electric motor on the outboard lo

i have 11 of these, some still running 10 years on, newer ones needing repair within months of purchase, over the last 10 years there build quality has considerably dropped. i would not recommend buying a new one today, if your lucky enough to have one a few years old it will likely serve you well for a long time.

Nice work👌🇦🇺

Great job, one concern : I really hope those shelley relays are better now.. i have used multiple before but mine were failing after a year or 3-4..

Rather than a tracker, maybe a passive reflector is more practical.

Excellent job on the plumbing, it is refreshing to see neat work. The wood burner is an uncontrolled heat source but you did mention that you can monitor this to ensure that it is not overfired. That was the biggest reason that link up systems no longer pass the legislation for new houses in the UK. I have had a wood burner linked with an oil burner in my home since 1994 as i felt that you need a choice of fuels depending on cost. They have both been renewed due to age since then and around 10 years ago i added a large insulated buffer tank of 1000 litres capacity to store the heat from the wood burner. This was bespoke fabricated from stainless steel to fit in an available space on the ground floor. The oil burner is also linked to the buffer tank through a 3 port motorised valve to give the option of heating the radiators with the oil burner only and prevent the buffer tank from heating in this mode. The domestic hot water is from a twin coil immersion tank upstairs, one coil is gravity from the wood burner and the other from the central heating circuit. It also has standard electric immersion heater which is controlled from the solar diversion controller. The system is automated with relays, thermostats time clocks etc. to give individual control of top and bottom floor temperatures. I didn't go with full processor controls as i wanted to keep the system simple enough for my wife (or others) to operate. It did take some time and a few alterations to get the system to work properly but it now works very well. One of the big benefits is that the radiators get up to temperature quickly from the stored hot water. One suggestion i have is that you fit a magnetic central heating filter to your system to remove the black sludge from the heating circuit water. Wood burners seem to produce more of the sludge probably due to the high temperature if over fired. It take a lot of effort to put a system together but the reward is seeing it working and saving money plus you have a proper fire to look at. I hope you remembered to take the camera out of the wood stove😂 No doubt your system will peform well and looking forward to the updates.

Snyggt👌

Which Victron do you use for your system and how many watts does your PV have and can I use one DALY for. 2 ID module run

I likenyour videos. Good job!

Looks very neat. Nicely done. 9ne question: If you tank is not open vented then should it not have a temperature and pressure relief valve with a blow off pipe to allow it to vent safely outside

Thanks for showing the system! I have a similar setup, with a pellets burner, i have the possibility to shut down the pump between the tsnk and the burner but I'm not at the moment. 1, Do you see any risks with "powering on and off that pump a few times a day"? 2, What is the biggest benefit from controlling the pumps automatically? Why not have them on? In your opinion.

Great plumbing! Always shows how well you think through what you are creating. I hope this system keeps you warm during the cold Swedish winters. Can you show us how your insulated system looks? Greetings from dull weather the Netherlands, not much sun here this week, sadly.

Very much like the system I have planned. The only issue for me is that pressurised (unvented) water tanks in the Uk require certification and building regulation compliance. So I will be using a vented (thermal store) tank.

The copper plumbing is so neat and clean. Especially with the solderless connections. That just adds to an efficient setup.

Grymt. Alltid lika intressant och underhållande att se dina inlägg.

Mycket bra filmer 🎥 du gör. Supersnygg installation 😎👍 Intressant att du ska byta batteri. Vad kan de bli för Typ av batteri 🤔🤔jag har mina aningar.😜👍lycka till Med allt😁

How did you do the copper joints, all these 90° angles ? Pressing or soldering? The blue plastic looks a bit like the pressure fittings, but I am not sure. Great video about linen, which we had used a lot instead of these white bands that are sold nowadays.

HEATPUMP - try to find a used one which is broken cause they quite often leak. You can fix the leak or replace the cylinder below it with a good used one or connect your existing cylinder instead and without opening the coolant cirle which is a lot more work and here only allowed for a few people with a certification. A german guy has done that experiment before so I looked up for such leaking heatpumps usually to be identified in the description with a wet insulation. And if those are just 6 years old the heatpump on top is usually quite good. The heatpump control is usually based on modbus so that would fit quite well into Home Assistant. Fix the broken cylinder or replace it and connect that with your existing heatpump. BUT: i got aware of that topic after I had bought a heatpump cylinder with 270 Liters. We got an Atlantic Explorer V 4 with 270L and a coil with a 16 kW heat exchanger inside which allows you to charge that cylinder from oil condense heater or oven or vice versa discharge that volume into a heating circle as we did. BUT, big but: the atlantic Explorer has a SG ready mode for using only surplus energy if available and then would start a full speed charging up to 63°C (if a cloud causes shadow and ends the surplus the heatpump will continue its even without surplus "circle" for better longevity). Once it reaches 63° it will stop. But there is a downside cause the capacity is qute limited. We run the heating system in the radiator at 45°C max (-10°C) so it is usually running at 35 to 40°C . To discharge the energy from the hot water cylinder efficiently you need a difference of +5° so your capacity is limited from 63° to 43°C. And the math behind that will end up in 270 Liter (if the whole amount is fully heated up) 1,16 Wh per °C per L or 270 L x 20 °C x 1,16 Wh per °C per L = 6.264 Wh Without any losses in this equation. 6,2 kWh were in reality roughly 5,5 kW and we were able to do it 3x a day and it reduced the oil bill by roughly 1,5 Liter and means also a lot of wear and tear cause these water heatpumps are usually limited to a 14 hours running time per day. 14 hours x 700 W input = 9800 Wh input energy and roughly 30 to 35 kWh output per day on paper. At the end it is hard to judge if it is worth the effort cause the heatpump is running 3 times as long as it is needed for hot water only. And the gain is 1,5 liter oil saved - before we finally also got a full or real heatpump from china which was 1800€ for 8 or 12 kW which had been used in Norway for a few years). Therefore we had to rebuild that again, Atlantic Explorer went out and we are using currently a smaller 150 Liter warm water boiler instead. The 8 kW heat pump works as a monovalent hybrid together with our condensed oil heater which means only 1 source is heating at a time, so above -3°C it is heatpump time and below we use oil which we still have in the tank and will make the heatpump last longer. Another reason for the exchange is also that these water heatpumps will cool you cellar down if you do not use outside aire as heat source. Then it is also a noise source not everybody wants to have in his house even if italian and french are used to that cause it was sold to us this way in the netherlands where those are cheaper than here. The brochures showed the atlantic explorer always in a nice garage or kitchen, but that would mean that you suck the heat out of your heated home to feed it back which can only have very limited benefits. We have recognice issues with the temperature (drop) and had to suck the air from the outside in instead from the room where it stood. Then the noise was recogniceable due to a living room next to it with the wood oven (another reason to put it there). And finally the air became very dry. And when we heard that a chinese heatpump was heating a home in Norway for just 2000€ (due to higher import vat of 25% instead of 19) then all came together to rethink our heating system and to find a simpler solution based on an outside monobloc heatpump for 1800€ incl. shipping and taxes. And that is also capable to deliver heating water up to 75°C - but we had exchanged a few radiators to get down to 45°C max cause that saves an awfull lot of energy this way - but requires a higher water flow speed of 2000 Liter / hour which needs in the main heating circle a bigger diameter. But the scop is increasing from 3,1 (65°C) over 3,7 (55°C) to 4,3 (45°C). 20.000 kWh neded would mean 6450 kWh or 4650 kWh electricity consumption for the same result : 20°C room temperature We have added radiator ventilators under most radiators to increase their power and if that was not enough we also had exchange 2 radiator to finally get down to 42° heating water temperature at -10°C outside . 1800 kWh less equals here based on 0,3 € per kWh just 600€ per year. And these kWh for heating are usually not been powered by the solar power from the roof, only 15% or 600 kWh can be expected.

1:54 - LADDOMAT , sounds like an IKEA charger. Now I know why you did not use a heatpump cylinder for hot water cause you have also a wood oven with heatexchanger. We use that too but did not go the extra mile to charge the warm water and we use it only for heating so far.

What a great work! 💪Any chance to post your configurations and automation code somewhere?

Snyggt! Riktigt bra jobbat och inspirerande! 👍🏻 Har själv ett leafbatteri som lager, värmepump med golvvärme men vill bygga ut vattenvolymen liknande som du. Har dock inte någon eldstad men är lite sugen på en liten pelletsbrännare som skulle kunna automatiseras och användas som stöd/backup. Har precis fått igång HA men är helt novis där. Kanske kan få lite tips av dig? 🙏👍🏻