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Yes super

Today i finished the sample and hold circuit and works like a charm. Now i have this great idea i like to share but i do not know how to approach this. What if..... we would add voltage per octave tracking so that the random notes/voltages are played in minor or major or other musical scale? A random minor/major like sequencer.? I hope someone or maybe Mr Holmes himself could use this. Have a nice day

The legendary Bob Pease called breadboards 'the white slab of trouble.' I'm not sure I'd go to quite this much work. I don't know how often I need a 10 ppm match. (I usually use emitter resistors, which hides some of the mismatch.) The last batches of DMMT5401's and DMMT5551's that I got in all seem to have a Vbe match within about 300 microvolts (The data sheet says 1 mV typical, 2mV max, so maybe I got lucky, or maybe their production process is better than they claim.) Having both transistors in one package is convenient. I solder it into a breakout board, epoxy a tiny RTD on the back of the package, and glue on a piece of blue foam. An opamp and a couple of resistors, and I have a temperature compensated matched pair suitable for a 1000:1 log converter. For currrent mirrors and current references, I really like the REF200. Searching for transistor matches for that application is worth a lot more than ten bucks of my time.

Nice ,but I thought the video was how you made it.

is this eurorack or 4U?

Thanks for the idea, I was going the raw PT2399 + passives route and using the module ended up being much quicker and cleaner!

Will this work if I use a usb to midi cable from Ableton?

Using a sine wave for the carrier will result in fewer harmonics.

Awesome design. Thanks for sharing! I went off a very similar schematic to yours but it uses a SFH618A-4 optocoupler instead of the sn137. I'm powered off 9V. I'm RX light blinks with note on info, but I'm getting no voltage change readings on any CV output. I'm using elkayem's exact code. I'm using benjiao modular schematic I'm really confused. Any suggestions? Thanks

What if i put a B100K instead of a B50K for the time control?

Thanks!

Funny project to have ! Nice achievement sir

Brilliant!

400v tubes and uranium. This is the spiciest Analog Output module yet

A little while back I bought a chinese geiger counter and was very disappointed when trying to measure the radiation from bananas lol. I tried an old gas lantern mantel too with no luck.

Very nise! I also have a DSO 138, I have long wanted to combine it with my experiences with music and homemade devices (I absolutely agree with you that initially it does not look presentable) But there are several not good moments in it. These are slide switches and tact buttons. They were initially of disgusting quality. Although they still work today, but with deviations. I will also upgrade the oscilloscope. I have an idea to make something like my own form factor. Similar to Eurorack but a little smaller. The useful area of the box is 34.5 by 28.5 centimeters. Yes, it’s very small, but that’s the beauty of it. The box itself is an all wooden box in excellent condition from a portable reel to reel tape recorder. With a chic, massive, fold-back stainless steel handle. This box will contain a simple set of homemade and converted modules. The front panel is styled to resemble instruments from the 60s and 70s. Micro knobs (turned from aluminum) and mini potentiometers are many original ones from the times of the USSR. From the mixing console "Venets 32-01". Something like this. You have an interesting channel! Subscribed! I wish you Health, Love, Goodness and Happiness! Шикарно! Тоже есть дсо 138 давно хотел его обьеденить со своми опытами с музыкой и самодельными устройствами (абсолютно согласен с Вами что изначально он выглядит не презентабельно) Но и есть в нем несколько не хороших моментов. Это ползунковые переключатели и тактовые кнопки. Они изначально были отвратительного качества. Хотя по сегодня работают но с отклонениями. Буду тоже осциллоскоп модернизировать. У Меня есть мысль сделать что-то типа своего форм фактора. Аналог еврорэка но немного меньше. Полезная площадь ящика 34,5 на 28,5 сантиметров. Да очень маленькая но в этом и есть прелесть. Сам ящик это полностью деревянный ящик в прекрасном состоянии от переносного катушечного магнитофона. С шикарной массивной складной назад ручкой из нержавеющей стали. Вот в этом ящике и будет простой набор самодельных и переделанных модулей. Передняя панель стильлизованна под приборы под 60-70 года. Микро ручки (точёные из аллюминия) и мини потенциометры ест много оригинальные со времён СССР. От микшерного пульта "Венец 32-01". Как то так. У Вас интересный канал! Подписался! Вам Здоровья,Любви,Добра и Счастья!

There is a board to match small transistors using this principle but I think it is expensive, have a look anyway. Search: Small Transistor Matching by VBE matching

Wave Displacer.... is this from AL Zimer's collection?

Very nice.

Very cool. I made a thing like this for my 5U system.

Nice build, as always! I like the tip regarding the useful life of the LCD display and overall device consumption. For this purpose, the power key comes in handy.

I also wanted OSC in my modular. I found old valve one with 2 inch screen. Seven valves, fully analog. I love to watch it and regulate it :)

Fantastic, thanks for sharing Rich! I've had one of those oscilloscopes for years with the intention to build it into a module. I have a case for it and so it's been very low on my priority list. You've done nearly all the thinking for me for when I finally get around to doing this! I like the idea of separating the main circuit board from the display with a ribbon cable.

Nice. I have a DSO Mini, but I use it as a regular Oscilloscope. But I like this DSO to EuroRak module conversion.

Thank thank Thank You this has driven me mad.

❤ great method. how thick is the aluminum plate? do you use thicker ones for large modules?

That's very cool! Is this a module that you made yourself or a production module?

Hackaday just posted a link to th-cam.com/video/Hbif62nJ5Xg/w-d-xo.html in which the builder had some trouble with apparently fake multiplier chips that were prone to overheating. Click through to the schematics and sure enough, they're (supposed to be) AD633. It’s painful to pay Analog Devices prices for genuine AD633 chips, but at least they work!

Thanks for posting this. I've been planning to make an AD633 module for a while now. This may just get the ball rolling.

Nice module, as always! Thanks :)

If you wanted to control something on a guitar effect pedal with the envelope, say, tremolo rate, would this work?

Excellent video. Thanks.

Lovely new module Rich.

Phenomenal! New Subscriber here and I am excited to make time for this module.👍

Good to see you back producing new modules, many thanks.

I have just re-booted my synth build after a year off, so pleased to see you are back! Looking forward to checking out your new web site.

Nice to see you back on TH-cam.👍

I know this was a year ago, but I'm wondering if you remember what size and type of screws you used to mount the rails to the side panels.

The description appears to be meant for your LFO video... :)

This is fantastic. I am rummaging through the code, trying to understand how much modification would be required to apply /n to more of the outputs. Any chance you could direct me where to look?

been a long time coming but putting one (or two) of these together this week from a pcb as making a portable case. time has flown! looking forward to it.

hi the github is not working anymore... did you have an alternative link ?

Where have you been all my life?!! Damn thats coooool.

thanks for the video. Did you tried with sprayed clear coat instead of plastic adhesive sheets?

Thank you so much for this explanation!

Does it have an amplified output? Will it drive a small speaker or will I need an LM386 or something?

Thank you.

I'm currently building something similar to this, actually I'm building my own version of Wintergatan's Modulin :D I recently discovered an interesting meta of using a force sensitive resistor strip *underneath* the softpot to give you a certain level of pressure sensitivity, then use that to gate the output from the softpot. It also means you don't need the pullup resistor on the softpot, which means you get a linear output, and also don't get the pitch rising or falling rapidly when you release your finger :D

Good editing: speeding this up 0:11 Great editing: speeding that up and keeping the sound in I still like you though. Have a subscribe.

Hi Rich, thanks for your great video! I stumbled across this while working on my own design of a power supply in the same vein as the FC-Power and MFOS one you've built. I will definitely be replacing the diode for the positive regulator as you've identified. Another thing to note for people looking at these designs is the revision to the MFOS design in which 2.4K load resistors were added to each output, after a MFOS reader reported that the negative regulator requires a 3mA load to start regulating. The FC-Power design has an LED in series with a 1K resistor on each output, which I believe remedies this same issue, with the added benefit of providing a status indicator. Rich- I see you have LEDs for your rails, and I assume this is how you've wired them.