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The thing that determines the rafter size is the structural capacity for a given horizontal run of the rafter. The pitch or slope only has a limited impact on the decision. For limited spans such as on a shed, they would generally be 2x6's, but if it is small enough you may be OK with 2x4's.

I need to do that. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. Thanks for watching!

Yep. You just decide how steep a roof you want. Often of course, the architects will make that decision for you and specify on the plans what pitch is desired. I just picked the 8/12 for demonstration purposes. Thanks for watching!

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Glad you liked it. You can order a book by going to roofbible.com. Thanks for watching!

That is too funny! I never heard that before. Thanks for watching!

There is little more satisfying than building a whole house yourself. We may do that on video someday. Thanks for watching!

The best pitch would depend on several things. If you are using a shingle roof you don't want to be flatter than a 3/12 pitch. A metal roof can be as flat as 1/12 without any issues. A steeper pitch usually is more attractive in appearance. It would also give you higher head height in the coop. So, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Yes

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Those are some very perceptive questions. The model in the video is just a temporary mockup. Typically a "stick-built" hip roof would have struts under the ends of the ridge, hips, valleys, etc. However, for some roof configurations, you can eliminate those struts if you have proper ceiling joist ties across the structure. As you correctly note, the walls would push out without them. An open structure would need some uplift resistance. How much would depend on your wind zone. The same is true for the rafter connections. In many wind zones nailed connections are all that is required. Typically hip roofs cannot be vaulted without some type of ceiling tie. Normally you would need either ceiling joists, or perhaps timber trusses to support those points as the end of the ridge. Sometimes people will use steel rods across the structure to furnish the ceiling tie. My limited video presentation obviously can't cover all structural variations. I wish I could give exact answers to your questions, but there are simply too many variables: the size of the structure, the pitch of the roof, the wind zone. the design loads (snow loads etc.), the type of framing material used, and many others. I hope this answers some of your questions. Thanks for watching!

@@RoofFramersBible Thanks Barry - This is very helpful!

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The 3/4" is the horizontal run of 1/2 of the ridge thickness. Measuring along the slope of the 8/12 rafter is 7/8". The values in the charts are rounded to the nearest 1/8". Thanks for watching!

Thank you sir. Thanks for watching!

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Great! Thanks for watching.

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I have heard that from time to time. The word bible just means book, so the Holy Bible is the holy book. In modern usage bible is used to signify "the comprehensive reference". That is what I wanted Roof Framer's Bible to be, the comprehensive reference to all thinks roof framing. Thanks for watching!

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No. In our example the rafter run is 4', or half the span. The pitch is designated per one foot of run, so in one foot of run the rafter rises 8". The actual run of the common rafter is 4'. Thanks for watching!

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Because the H.A.P. of the hip must be the same as the H.A.P. of the common. As you say, the birdsmouth (and therefore the H.A.P.) of the common is set by the width of the wall plate. For the top of the hip rafter to plane out with the commons on each side, the H.A.P. of the hip must match that of the commons. Since the hip is a different pitch, using the H.A.P. of the common makes the seat cut longer than that of the common. Thanks for your interest and thanks for watching!

@@RoofFramersBible Got it, cheers, pls keep doing it, I may enrol in a trade school and your videos will be more helpful.

@@narragopichand9982 Good luck. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Sorry if you were confused. If you are totally new to roof framing it can take a while to get comfortable with it.

@@RoofFramersBible I have looked at this video many times and at certain parts you do explain the info on a beginners level, but then you go off into an advanced level where someone who is familiar with this will understand. In the drawing that you have in the video the numbers do not add up, that's where its more confusing than helping. If you present the drawing to a person that has never cut a rafter before it will not make any sense to them. Most of the videos out there throw numbers at you but never explain how they got to the numbers. In your drawing the numbers on the left bottom does not match up with the numbers on top, then on the right the same applies. I like the video and how its presented but I still don't know how to cut a rafter since the numbers don't add up. How can 5' on the bottom left add up to 72-1/8" on the bottom top? Even if you add in 32" for the rise that adds up to 104-1/8". On the right side its the same the numbers are off.

@@sledgehammer7998 The 5' on the left is run, or a horizontal dimension. The 72 1/8" overall dimension on the right is measured along the slope of the rafter and is therefore longer. The run dimensions and the rafter dimensions are never the same. New concepts are often confusing. Just take it one piece at a time and you'll have it in no time. Thanks for watching!

And its for beginners

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Without a doubt, bastard hip roofs are not for the beginner. The "blue book" that comes with a speed square is useful for simple roofs, but of course has no info for bastard roofs. Thanks for watching!

It is an easy calculation. You use the common rafter run to calculate the rise. Now this rise is along the top of the rafter, so you will need to add the H.A.P. (height above plate) When you cut the birdsmouth, the H.A.P. is the distance from the wall plate up to the top of the rafter at the outside edge of the wall. If you watch my video - Beginner's Guide to Roof Framing, it explains that in detail. Thanks for watching!

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It is shown on sheet 12 of the plans. It is a 1/2" hole, 7" down from the top and 1 3/4" from the back.

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The factor chart allows you to quickly go from the value that you have to the value that you need. In the case of the hip tail length we can use the run of the high pitch side to get the length of the hip rafter, or in this case the length of the hip tail. So, since a bastard hip will always cross off of the corner of the wall to the high pitch side, we will use the overhang length (12" in the video) on the high pitch side to enter the factor chart, so 12" x 2.062 = 24.744", or rounded to 24 3/4" for the hip tail. Thanks for watching!

@@RoofFramersBiblethank you! I get it now, the hip rafter is married to the high pitch side for all its calculations. I’m shortening the over hang on the higher pitch to avoid building up the wall plate. As I’m understanding it, there isn’t anything else to factor when cutting the birds mouth to match the 12” overhang on the shallow pitch, the overhang reduction covers it all? Learning a lot. Thanks again.

There is more than one way to get the job done. Thanks for watching!

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Thank you! We are really enjoying the stories from people that have built and love their hoop coop!

That's good Robert. I appreciate the kind words. Yeah, I have gotten that response about "Bible" through the years. Bible really just means "book". So, Holy Bible means Holy book. In modern use Bible has come to mean "the definitive reference". I wanted Roof Framer's Bible to be the definitive reference for roof framing. For 30 years now I think it has a claim to having achieved that. Thanks for watching!

@@RoofFramersBible No problem brother Barry . Credit where credit is due !!! By the way , we are more than carpenters . We are what I like to call "practical mathematicians" . And the God of carpentry is Pythagoras .

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Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!

It sounds like you are not adding in the height of the H.A.P. That is the abbreviation for "height above plate". When I wrote the book 30 years ago that was not a term I used, but is more commonplace now. Some people and some books will talk about the "measuring line" for rafter lengths. They run this from the corner of the plate. I consider this unnecessary confusion. Using the method in my book, the important thing to keep in mind is that the rafter run, and rise, is always figured from the top edge of the rafter. So the rise will be the vertical distance from the top of the rafter at the outside of the plate, and the top of the rafter at the side of the ridge (if you figured the run to the side of the ridge). You will need to add the height distance from the top of the rafter at the outside of the plate line down to the level of the plate (H.A.P.). If you do that you will have a very accurate height for your ridge beam. It isn't possible to provide ridge heights for every scenario in the book, because there are an infinite number of different conditions for the rafter and birdsmouth. It will vary by the width of the framing members, and the depth of the birdsmouth cut. I hope this answers your question. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching!

@@RoofFramersBible Thank you so much for this explanation! it worked out great!

@@markraymond2221 Good deal!

It is a slang term from England. The term “bird” refers to a women or girl. Most old English wives were known for yelling at their poor henpecked husbands and the birds mouth represented a woman’s mouth wide open and screaming. 😂

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That's great! Thanks for watching.