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The $13,000 bokeh is well worth it.

Keep in mind Canon has the 600 and 800 f/11’s if portability and daytime shooting are priority. The f/4 tele-primes are primarily for maximum bokeh (which is quite noticeable even in this video) and sunrise/sunset shooting, where the smaller lenses fall apart.

Another well done video Alex, thank you.

Just got the Nomad and your video is very helpful thanks! One question: when I put a V-mount on to the Nomad red plate (like you showed when shooting) it doesn’t seat all the way down. The set screw will make it secure but it is not flat. Will that make the alignment be off ? Thanks !

Color saturation looks better on the OM

I have a problem, I have a Sony a7iv and a 20mm 1.8 g lens. I saw in tutorials that they set the exposure time to even 2 or 3 minutes and there are no star trails. I set it to a minute or a minute and 20 seconds and the stars start to blur. I don't know where the problem is. I choose the polar star from the stellarium application, I have a phone mount for MSM.

EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! WAHOOO!!! I agree with you that the Canon 600mm f4.0 in some situations took better shots. Also like you, I think the that the Olympus 300mm f4.0 is a VERY CLOSE competitor! And it's so much more affordable. I have an OM Systems OM-1. However, I just upgraded to the Olympus 100-400mm f5.0-6.3 (from the Olympus 75-300mm f4.8-6.7). It is a better lens. It does not take as sharp a picture as the Olympus 300mm (or should I say that I to not take pictures as well...). A friend of mine has the Olympus 300mm paired to an OM-5. He takes outstanding pictures! At best, I am an eager amateur. I mainly shoot landscapes and plant portraits for nature scientists. I got into wildlife photography during the Covid shutdown years (I bought a backyard bird feeder....). Will I ever get the 300mm f4.0? Or the OM 150-600mm f5.0-6.3? I fear that the Olympus 150-400mm f4.5 is only a pipe dream.......for now! Cheers!

hi did you try to use a external sink cord to connect the camera to de MSM

z50 + z 400mm f4.5 look at the weight & reach

The 600 smoked it, and like other comments have stated, when the light gets less than ideal the 600 will continue to steam roll ahead. But for good light shots, it would be interesting to see how much the 300/4 could be enhanced with skillful use of AI tools like the Lens Blur feature to see if additional separation could be had and a closer match obtained. Of course the same could be applied to the 600/4 and again it would take the biscuit.

Hi mate I shot with the om1, 8mm and 17mm lens I wish to invest in a tracker. Which one would you recommend the nomad or sky watcher. I am asking because I would like to use my Olympus 40-150mm pro 2.8. I will be backpacking a with a rucksack. Your advice would be appreciated.

Honestly seems like a big oversight on the design. This unit was advertised as being more secure for attempting longer focal lengths, and while rotating your camera for wide angle setups for polar alignment might be fine, for longer focal lengths where I check alignment often, I’m worried by the time the weight is rotated back to center that the alignment would be off. Seems like the proper solution would be some sort of clamp bracket like the original MSM unit had to allow the placement of the polar scope in varying positions rather than being tied to the upper right corner. I hope to be able to purchase something if the sort in the future.

Nice video. Thanks for sharing and I agree with your assessment. Question. On one of the side by side owl pics at 7:25, what was the crop factor (100%, 200%, etc. on the processed image that show the canon sharper? Before the last image they look almost equal.

Just bought my nomad, I didn't buy the laser because I'm on a tight budget. I'm hoping skysafari on my phone will do the alignment.

Buy and use what you can afford. Comparing the 2 systems is redundant. One is clearly better than the other.

do more dehancer please

Hi Alex! I have purchased the MSM Nomad with the MSM Wedge. The problem is that I live at 59˚ N and I have some problems for aligning with Polaris. Do you think the Benro three-axis head you use would be better for the polar alignment? Or I might have the same problem? Thanks for your reply! I hope to see some new videos from you soon, I enjoy them very much! You do a fantastic job!!

Subscribed!

I thank you, I bought this with your discount code. Wishing you well.

You can’t compare the full frame sensor to a micro 4/3 😂😂. Let alone the big whites from Canon, dare to touch Sony 600/4 or Nikon 400TC. They are in a different league brother 😄

I´m going on a trip to South Africa next week. Shall I take the 14-150II or the 12-100? I own both, but the 14-150 is more lighter than the 12-100. Will it be a mistake to take the 14-150 with me? Can I get your opinion please? I will take with me: OM-1, EM10/2 , 100-400 and 12-100 OR 14-150II.

Is it not possible to attach a higher quality scope ? And that is illuminated.

Good vid. Agree with all. I use Olympus myself and have not regrets. However, disappointed there wasn't a low light comparison.

Hi Alex. Just to let you know I used your code when I bought my NOMAD. 👍

Despite the subject separation of the 600, I still found those images quite flat. The Olympus shots just popped.

Can I program a tracker to follow the ISS? I want a good shot of the ISS with star streaks behind it.

Age and injury precludes big heavy lenses for me. Currently use canon r7 with pro 400 ef lenses. The r7 is disappointing if the rumoured r7 2 does not fix the problems I will switch to the om1 with the 100- 400 and 300 pro which will give me the same versatility as may current set up.

Great vudeo! Did you made the video you mentioned about best iso for astro?

The bokeh on the Canon is lovely. And it's sharp. But I sold my full frame Canon gear simply because it's too much to lug around. Not just hiking and birding - but travel too. The OM1 and the 300mm F4 has produced some lovely images for me and its ability to follow focus on BIF is excellent. Sure, noise is up, dynamic range is a little less. But, the keeper ration of sharp bird photos is better. Also, in recent years, the AI tools can really help with bokeh and noise. Yeah, I know that's true for FF stuff also - and you can crop more. If I was 25 years younger then maybe I'd lug that 600mm around. Maybe....

I’m ashamed to say that I have owned and used the Oly 300 f4 for quite a few years but it now stays in the cupboard. That’s because the 150-400tc now lives on my OM1ii! All of the quality of the 300 but what a zoom. At 74 and slowly falling apart, I don’t use a tripod or monopod - the Mk 2 has even better stabilisation! Was shooting the Paradise Riflebird in Queensland yesterday alongside a guy with the A1 and Sony 600 yesterday (his on a gimbal and tripod). If I’m honest, the extra pixels would be nice but noise isn’t a problem, courtesy of DXO Pure RAW.

Hi Alex, I love your videos! You have great content! I have an OM-D EM1 Mark III and recently purchased the Olympus 100-400mm f5-6.3 and a Nomad star tracker. During my initial tests last night the star tracker worked great, no star trails! But the Starry Sky AF didn't seem to work and I know this has to be user error and/or my lens and camera settings are off? Any advice or do you have another video that goes over some of the settings that are best for the OM-D EM1 Mark III? Thanks!

By far the best review thank you 🌹🫶

My NOMAD is on the way. Am clueless with such set ups, so will be a frequent visitor to your channel once I start on this journey. Thanks!

That was a really comprehensive comparison, thanks for that. I'm having even more doubts now hahaha. Thing is, I go to the mountains, normally alone, and I spend the entire night there, I usually carry 30kg on my back from time to time up to 3200mts above sea, so, even though is hard, I'm not afraid of carrying more weight. Now, since I don't have now a telescope, I'll be using my camera, my wife angle lenses and, occasionally, an old 300mm Minolta .is very light weight, but I'm also considering the telescope again in the future. When I do timelapses, I do it with a slider, so, that's not really a problem. The nomad or the big one.... That's the question.

Hola, quizás sea una pregunta tonta. He alineado el nomad con el laser y me ha dado buenos tiempos de exposición. Pero al intentar afinar la alineación con el visor polar, veo que el laser y el centro de la retícula no coinciden. En otros vídeos he visto que en el antiguo msn la polar no se coloca en el centro de la retícula . En el Nomad donde coloco la polar exactamente. Gracias y buen trabajo

The only big difference that I see in some photos is that in the OM the grain, noise is much more noticeable, especially in the shadows and that the backgrounds also do not appear as blurred as in the Canon. I suppose that in good lighting conditions the difference in grain is not noticeable, but when it is necessary to use high ISO there is a loss of quality in the small sensor.

I'll take an EF 600 F/4 and save some money.

Hey Alex I have the previous version. Do u have a video on that one?

Very informative. Thanks. Would like to find out what is the function of the brass screw. Does it need to be adjusted?

New to astro. I understand why using a tracker requires a separate foreground shot but is it common practice to recompose between foreground and sky?

Thx for the video Alex! Great Job. I started to photograph the Milkyway this year. Just by taking single shots or stacked shots, which i put together in sequator to reduce the noise. Now, i want to buy a msm nomad for tracking the Milkyway to get better results and more detail of the Milkyway. The Skyreplacement-Tool ist really cool. Just a question for tracking the sky. Is it better to stack and track with the nomad, for example 20-30 shots of about a minute ( and when doing this, how can i get those pictures together? Also with Photoshop? Using another Programm/Tool for doing this? ) or just takin one image of about 2-3 minutes? Thx for ur time and sharing your knowledge and sorry for my bad english. Hope you can understand what i am asking. Greets from Palatina Forest, Germany Rico

The OM Systems 300 f4 actually seemed just a tiny bit sharper to me than the Canon 600mm f4 in many of the photos which I found surprising. However, I know that changes as the light falls off and conditions favor the Canon. If you find yourself wanting to shoot in the predawn or twilight hours of the day the Canon is the lens you're going to want. But, for me at least, the portability of MFT gear is a great advantage in its own way. I'm grateful I live in a time that offers photographers such sophisticated options.

This was really helpful! I am fairly skilled with both of these programs, but never knew how to merge all these shots together!

honestly surprised, noise was the main downfall of the mf3 system. NOT worth the extra 10K unless you ARE a RENOUNED, and ESTABLISHED wildlife photographer that can write that thing off on your taxes. Then sure, but otherwise I'd be happy with the other combo!

What the hell the 300 looked better to me most of the time!

Wondering why I cannot save this video to my private folders to reference later?

An interesting comparison though for two widely different budgets. I think comparing the Olympus with the Canon 600mm F/11 would illustrate what m43 offers: feel & build quality

Everyone is a fan boy for the camera system they use!! I have an RF 600mm f/4, so you know how I feel! 😎

If the salmon are late or you are too early there are other ways to see costal brown bears. We flew across the bay from Homer to watch the bears eat grass and engage in the mating season. RatedXXX. The pilots got us in position to view bears from 50 yards. It was great walking with 12 bears on the tidal flats.

To my eyes, the limitations are more in the camera than the lens. They are both super sharp. The Olympus is clearly more noisy due to sensor size. With the 600 on a FF camera, I bet it would significantly outperform it in lower light.