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Yeah, that has been my experience as well. Like they are super shy or something😆

I either sun dry them, or dry them on the counter in my house, after that, they last for a long time.

It would be pretty fantastic to live somewhere, where they can get that big!

Thank you for visiting my little corner of the internet, glad you enjoyed it!

I put a link in the description of the video, you can read it for free at that link.

I have shown the tree in my tour videos in passing, but I have not come back to do another trimming video specifically on it...yet. However, if you wish to see the revisits, go ahead and subscribe because I definitely will show ALL the updates on my old growth junipers, all the way until completion. So far, they are all doing very well and thriving.

Thank you for checking out my channel! The host plant is Maypop passion flower(Passiflora incarnata).

So, can I join your crew??

Good times 😆

Thank you for checking out my video and channel! I have never heard of Merlin until your comment, but I will check it out.😃

There could be many reasons. The amount of direct sun, the age of the fruit, ambient heat, water and nutrient content in the soil. Another possibility, is that the plant you have is not what you have identified it as. Keep in mind: Ripe fruit can take up to 3 months from flower to ripening.

I am glad I am not the only one that treats my plants like dear old friends that I can't be parted from😄

I live in San Antonio. Worked out of williston for 7 yrs lol I can go on a trail and pick em lol glad you enjoy them. Plan on planting some in Montana

It makes TOTAL sense, and I am stealing that description😃, "the bird song that feels like home". Thank you for stopping by my little channel!

It is an option to be sure. I forgot to mention it in the video. For me, in my location, that works out to a minimum of ~$800/year and 120 miles of driving. Not too bad. My other videos go into detail as to why that is less desirable than having the means of production on-site. The massively overly simplified summary is: I GREATLY value self sufficiency/elimination of supplier dependency. I also have to keep costs down enough to bring the price point per unit to below that of food in the store.

I can, and I am glad you brought that up! I forgot to mention it in the video. Here is my situation with it: The nearest option is 60 miles away, and they only have the large 12" diameter, or more, chippers. Price is reasonable, at $400/day. I need 2 days due to the drive. I'd have to use it a whole day, once per year. I generate ALOT of material. $800/year. An electric grinder is something I had not considered. That's largely because I haven't seen one when shopping for one. However, I will certainly check it out now😄 My ultimate goal would be to find a way to make chips efficiently without gas or electricity. Digging in historical accounts, I can find frontier folk used tree/shrub leaves & grass/herbaceous clippings. However, nothing on chips.

I wait for free chips from local arborists, but that is all carbon heavy in its generation and delivery. I keep my eye out of smallish chippers. Most aren't worth it.

@@f.demascio1857 I need a pretty regular supply of chips. I need the source to be very reliable. It would be awesome to get them free like that. Until your comment, I thought stuff like that was a myth that I should include in a video: "Top myths in gardening videos" . I hear what you're saying about smaller chippers. They look janky to me. * I have seen gardening channels suggest that "you can get free chips from landscaper/arborist/etc". * Another one I have heard is, "you can get free compost inputs from local restaurant/etc". * Another one is the "free pallets" story. I would love to live in these magical places. In my neck of the woods, EVERY business within a 75 mile radius is COMPLETELY hip to these items being useful, and therefore wastes nothing, and sells EVERYTHING. Most of them have been selling this stuff, been hip to this, since the late 80's. I did ask if they give those items away for free, only to be laughed at, and explained at, like so, "Son, that's one of my best money makers!"

I personally do, especially where the spray is thinnest/light. I should mention, though, that I obsessively maintain my septic system properly and to spec, and, I do not harvest until any spray has dried thoroughly in the sun. Aerobic systems rely on that last bit, the air and sun and time, to finish the sterilization process. Trees, shrubs, and vines, can grow above the spray, such that only the roots are getting the water on them, and harvest products are untouched. This is my main usage for the treated water. Though, as I mentioned, I do grow herbaceous layer crops in this zone in my yard, and, I do consume them from time to time, with no ill effects to date. However, my personal usage of this space when growing herbaceous crops in it, is **mainly** to grow for seed harvest rather than food harvest. I have a large seed bank to maintain, and must dedicate space to generating new seed every year. The bulk of my food harvest is from the unsprayed portions of my garden. So this arrangement works out nicely.

I actually do not know, and I would advise against ingesting this plant as it does have some troublesome chemicals in it. However, I do not say I "know" something, until I have piles of verified empirical evidence. For now, all I have regarding edibility or medicinal uses of this plant, are from archeological and historical accounts. Information on preparation is scant and conflicting. Information on dosage is also limited. **It is important to note, with ALL edibles, even domestic crops, dosage and preparation are paramount.** These accounts usually revolve around the seeds, and sometimes the leaves. **In these accounts, it seems to only be used as a hallucinogen, and never as an edible plant.** I use this plant exclusively as environmentally friendly shade cloth, and to bring in pollinators.

I love that you already know her name😆 I usually set it to the 60's batman cutscene music, or, the million dollar man sound effect. It makes me laugh to think of her as a super hero.

@@crosstimberspermaculture Yes! I like the Batman song- hilarious!🤣

It is actually not perennial, good eye though! This batch of peanuts self seed year over year. At this phase in my permaculture project, I am mainly focused on establishing stands of self seeding annual edibles. I do a lot of experimenting with different domestic and wild crops, to suss out the guilds that work in this eco region. That is because there is nobody in my area doing permaculture that already knows this information.

I wish lol! I have more rock than soil, and what is not limestone, is almost pure clay.

@@crosstimberspermaculture Ooooo. That’s rough.

Thank you for taking the time to comment on my little channel! I will admit, I am having difficulty picturing your unique situation to understand how to answer accurately. I have some videos on water management(there's a playlist) where I discuss some of these topics in more detail. 1) Water will reveal if there is an incline, even if slight. It sounds like that is what has happened in your situation. One could(as I often do) venture outside during a rain, and observe how the water flows, and then mark it, to suss out the lay of your land and topographic lines. 2) Laying logs, rocks, or just about any other barrier in the way of the water flow, will slow the water and cause the puddling. You can later come in and toss dirt and stuff on the barrier to make it more impermeable. 3) You want to keep puddling away from your house's foundation as much as possible. So, barrier placement needs to ensure the subsequent puddles do not get so large during a rain event as to get too close to a house foundation. So make sure your created barrier creates an overflow spot, that allows water to drain before it gets to be too large of a puddle 4) With that said, you want to try to make as large a puddle as you can, for maximal water capture. 5) The water, will seep into the ground for storage and for use later. Trees and shrubs will be able to access this water, but, they need to be planted **downhill** of the barrier. It can be RIGHT below the barrier, but NOT on it. DON'T plant deep rooted plants such as trees and shrubs IN the barrier as it will cause the barrier to leak. Small plants in and on the barrier are fine though. Any other questions feel free to ask. I will reply, or if nuanced enough, create a video on it.

@@crosstimberspermaculture Thank you. There’s some very helpful advice here that I hadn’t considered, such as overflow, and where exactly to plant. I should tell you I’m in Florida- sand and the water table! This area is at the fence line behind the house on about 1/4 acre. I do watch that water line when it storms, I watch it creep closer to the house. I would do this for peace of mind and to plant moisture loving crops in this wet area. Have you seen the inflatable tube that surrounds a home to keep the water away from flooding it? I was fascinated by this a few years ago and wondered if they’re still around. I’ll check your other videos as well! Thanks again!

@@cherylj7460 I actually have not seen that tube until you mentioned it😄 In my neck of the woods, it is so dry, that capturing as much water as possible is the name of the game. So, we don't have much issue with flooding.

At that point in time, 1 year old.

Thank you for sharing your comment, and thank you for sticking around to check out my channel!

It is reported to be. Please make sure to consult proper sources before ingesting any wild plants. While some may be edible or medicinal, dosage also matters and must be taken into account. It is always best to consult an expert in person to be sure you are using the correct plant, and also, the correct dosage.

Yes, the main one featured in the video is. I also have chiltepin on the farm.

I wish you luck. Old growth juniper is both important to the ecosystem, and, somewhat rare.

On beehalf of the bees......I thank you😄

Likewise for spinach, rice bran, raspberries, & hot chocolate. Similarly, tomatoes, potatoes, and onions, also contain chemicals that are objectively harmful. The point you bring up is a good one, that I (try) to harp on constantly(when given the opportunity like here). **That being, that when it comes to wild edibles, the term "edible", requires qualification.** Most think it means, "I can gom down on piles of it without issue". However, even for some veggies in the grocery story, this is not true, and it is likewise almost never true, for wild edibles. ***Edibility, is most often about dosage & preparation.*** I appreciate you making the comment and I hope you enjoy my channel😃

Like, where to find plant samples? One of the main strategies I use for gathering wild plants to grow on my property, is many, many miles of hiking roadsides and other LEGAL public areas to collect seeds, cuttings, etc. That is because I am obsessed with my plant genetics and phenotypes. Though, for blackberries, even cultivars can serve the same niche in the ecosystem, and garden. Thank you for stopping by my little channel!

About?

@@crosstimberspermaculture is my wild lettuce a different type. I'm not seeing any prickly spines....

@@JFullerTruth It would be impossible for me to tell without far more investigation and inspection. Accurate identification of plants requires looking at many characteristics. Before consuming ANY plants, one should consult in person with an expert.

I have Japanese and Chinese privet. It is bad, because it is a type 1 invasive, that will self-monoculture, wiping out just about EVERY native species of flora shorter than 25 feet & reduce water resources in the soil. It is fire proof, mow proof, drought loving, water loving, loves ALL types of soil, birds LOVE the fruit so spread it widely, and, the seeds survive in the soil for decades. Further, upon removal, if you leave even a scrap of root, or stem, in contact with the soil, it just grows back. Large infestations can only practically be removed by using toxic herbicides. Trimming it, causes it to spread even more, like grass. I don't know anything about "straight talk privet" to say if it is bad or good. However, as a general rule, if it is a type 1 invasive(USDA), it is 100% bad.

@@crosstimberspermaculture Thank you very much for your response. I asked because in our Home Depot in Nevada, we have Japanese privets and burning bushes for sale

@@rockyk9316 No problem at all, hope it helps. For the most part, I personally try to encourage everyone to avoid non-native species as much as possible. However, if that is not desirable, or possible, then PLEASE, try to avoid the type 1 invasives. A type 1 invasive, is a species that once planted, will essentially NEVER be able to be removed from the environment. What qualifies as a type 1 invasive varies from eco region to eco region. Consulting with your state Parks & Wildlife department can get you pointed in the right direction if you want a list of your region's worst non-native species. I will say that generally, what you find in Home Depot and Lowes, will usually be an invasive species.

Excellent point! They are PERFECT for malbar spinach.

Yes I miss the quail as well☹. Thank you for checking out my channel. If you wish to check out a video about garden changes that can help the quail, I have a video on the channel discussing it called: "Grow This Soil Improving Grass | How Grass Benefits Your Permaculture Garden"

Thank you for noticing the changes 😃 and the compliment😄. There's a native/naturalized amaranth that grows in this eco region, but I have yet to locate it in the wild so I can gather seeds. I am growing these domesticated varieties as a stand in for the native species. I have a suspicion as to what caused the 1 amaranth to be smaller than all the others on the property. Whenever it is done seeding, I will dig it up to see if I am correct. I suspect the root cause(pun intended) is something simple, such as failing to eliminate air cavities when I planted it. Though, there is indeed some nuance with the soil in that spot because I consistently notice it is much drier than the surrounding area, even after a rain. Though, at this stage, I am not worried about the specimens that fall behind. This is "stage 1"(technically stage 2) in incorporating these 3 crops. It is the method I used for all my self seeding annuals. I do not believe the way to do permaculture is to adapt the land to the crops. *I believe it should be the opposite way around.* So these crops have a long way to go down the seed saving journey, like all my other successful self seeding annuals, to have the traits to survive in my system with little to no human intervention(another belief I have regarding the importance of "permanence" in "permaculture"). *In stage 1, I am searching for pioneer genetics.* However, since I select my crops based on their native ecosystem doppelgangers in the first place, most of my experiments usually work out after only a few seasons of seed saving/selection. As is evidenced with the amaranth, which is doing quite well in its first season, as expected.

That's so cool that makes me so happy to hear! Thanks for checking out my channel😃

You are MOST welcome! Thanks for stopping by my little channel

I cannot agree more. It is one of our largest ecosystems, and we have no national parks on it. We should have like 6. Thank you for checking out my little channel😄

I am not familiar with Bailey Pequin peppers, but I know on my chili pequin, I can get larger fruits with the right mix of shade, water, and fertilizer. Though, not quite 3x larger. Should be interesting for you once they ripen though, good luck and thanks for the comment!

Yes that is garlic in the bed, good eye😄! I had planted that 2 years ago. Every now and then, I'll dig it up, replant a bulb in its place. I found that garlic in an old lady's flower bed. I was helping her and she said I could have them. Since then, I have grown them in 100% clay and rock for 15 years, before getting serious with them and spreading them to every garden bed in my yard. For all this time they only spread by bulbing off. Last year I had a few propagate by seed. Nature finds a way!

That's a good idea I will make a video for that. I will probably wait until the end of summer when they go to seed, so as to have a vivid illustration. For you right now though, I will say that my planting method is rather simple. I leave them to seed in place. I leave the dead stalks with seed heads up during the winter for winter wildlife food. Then in the later winter/early spring, I cut the stalks(careful to leave the roots in the ground), and lay the remaining seed heads where I want sun flowers to grow. I mention a little bit of this in one of my walk and talk videos. There's a playlist on the channel for it if you're interested.

Correct, and incorrect, at the same time. It is important to cross reference sources and consume the ENTIRE body of research before drawing conclusions. If one wishes to call something poisonous and be accurate, then they need to include a dosage, and likely, include a preparation method. It is also important to name the species, as toxins within the same genus can vary wildly, as you already pointed out. For instance, Vicia fabia, is TECHNICALLY a vetch, commonly known as Fava Bean, and is completely edible. It is also good to note that even if seeds are poisonous, that does not then translate to the ENTIRE plant, such as young shoots or leaves. Potatoes are poisonous, along with onions, tomatoes, and loads of other very common foods. The key, is dosage and preparation. Preparation includes cooking, processing, and waiting for the correct harvest time. Dosage is the amount ingested. **Vetch seeds, have been used a food since ancient times, and can be eaten, in SMALL amounts.** There is evidence that vetch has been used as a human food in prehistoric, predynastic, neolithic and bronze age eras. Cultivation of vetch is clearly evident from Roman times as well. Many wild and cultivated foods contain some toxins, including vetch. This is why the way foods are processed is so important. Common vetch contains various toxins including cyanagens (think cyanide) and amino acids. For this reason only small amounts of the 'peas' should be eaten raw (no more than 10% of your diet, which is still alot!!). Large amounts of some vetches are safe to eat when boiled for 2 hours or pressure-cooked for 20 minutes. Dried peas can taste a little almondy because of the cyanide - it's a pleasant flavour to eat one or two raw. You can get away with eating more green rather than dried peas raw. > Vicia peregrina: an edible early Neolithic legume - Yoel Melamed, Uzi Plitmann, Mordechai E. Kislev > Presence of vetches (Vicia spp.) in agricultural and wild floras of ancient Europe - Aleksandar Mikić > A NOTE ON THE EARLIEST DISTRIBUTION, CULTIVATION AND GENETIC CHANGES IN BITTER VETCH (Vicia ervilia) IN ANCIENT EUROPE - Aleksandar MIKIĆ, Aleksandar MEDOVIĆ, Živko JOVANOVIĆ, and Nemanja STANISAVLJEVIĆ > Common Vetch: A Drought Tolerant, High Protein Neglected Leguminous Crop With Potential as a Sustainable Food Source - Vy Nguyen, Samuel Riley, Stuart Nagel, Ian Fisk, and Iain R. Searle > Castetter, Edward F. 1935 Ethnobiological Studies in the American Southwest I. Uncultivated Native Plants Used as Sources of Food. University of New Mexico Bulletin 4(1):1-44. > Domestication of Plants in the Old World: The Origin and Spread of Domesticated Plants in Southwest Asia, Europe, and the Mediterranean Basin, 4th edition (Oxford: University Press, 2012, Daniel Zohary, Maria Hopf and Ehud Weiss), p. 116 There are literally hundreds more studies, a range from illustrating the historical usage to biochemical breakdowns. ***The conclusion is unanimous: Lots of types of vetch are edible, albeit usually in small dosages, and many are also medicinal & used for livestock, & has been a crop used for these purposes for thousands of years.***

The variety is called "Grandmother's Hat". I bought it from Annie's Annuals. It can be a free standing shrub if you trim it, or, it can be a climber. The story goes, that a woman named Barbara Worl found the Rose in an abandoned garden in San Jose. This is interesting because this story is similar to how I found my garlic and a few other crops😄. Thank you for checking out my channel!