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Hi. Great and helpful video. Thank you for that. Im about to re-do the hydronic system in my boat. Is your tapwater tank a combined 220v and heatexchanger type? if you run it only on 220v, and then run the circulation pump in the heating system, will you then get heating onbord? I wonder if this is a way to heat the boat at shorepower.. Best regards Yngve Haugesund

Very interesting video! I have the exact same Hydronic 10 heater installed on my 1999 Catalina 470, and it has never worked since I bought the boat. And I never really needed it as I live where it's warm almost all the time. I'm investigating getting the system going again, mostly to heat water for showers and doing the dishes, and for the rare cold day. You've given me a lot of useful information, thank you!

Excellent video. Thank you!

Great presentation. Love your speed and precision. Best I’ve ever seen.

Genius!

thank you good info

Great tip! I am installing a new DST810 on the hard and was wondering why it only showed the 3 dashes... Will find a piece of pipe and test tomorrow :) Thanks.

Very good video. I have owned my Dehler 36 for 6 years with a Flexofold prop and have changed both the prop and the sail drive anodes. Brilliant idea to check the saildrive leg by draining the oil to gain access to raw metal of the leg. Very concise discussion and easy to understand since I am a sailor...not an Electrical Engineer!!

Great video, and your humor adds to the understanding. One question if I may. What water tank and ssize are you using?

Superb, clear video. The best seen on this topic.

Great job on the installation and the explanation of how it works

What if you fillet that pipe with water?

Er det Bømlo?

We have a Hurricane hydronic heating system on our Tollycraft 34. It's set up very similarly to your boat and performs very well. It was 10°F last night and we kept the boat at 50°F to prevent freezing.

I have a Sleipner side power in my boat floating near Rotterdam. I like everything about the performance of the product. A couple of comments though if you are in Northern waters. In Winter condensation on a Fiber Glass is extreme. The Hull is like a rainstorm inside with accumulations of huge droplets of water and this leads to the one failure of the Sleipner unit I discovered 2 seasons ago when I decided to check the forecast deck equipment. I tried the Bow Thruster and it did not work in either direction. I tried the Anchor winch, just a clicking noise. The Sleipner problem turned out to be in the relay where the solenoid drives a plunger, but the force is transferred to the contractors via a drive pin which is a neat fit through the metal housing. Due to the extreme condensation in the fore peak of the boat this pin can seize up in the metal housing and fail to drive the contractor. Once you know where to apply your effort this is not a difficult repair, but it should never happen at all. I attempted to insulation the hul in this area with the stick on black foam material, but that proved impossible around the bow thruster water tube which as it has a very large surface area connected with the cold water is the source of much condensation. I am in the process of applying Poly Urethane foam to the area and that type of foam is working perfectly in more places around my boat.

Just use a hairdryer to heat up the hose, makes it so much easier!

Great explaining !

Thank you most kindly. I have opted for warm air. But am considering useing an egr on the exhaust to give me hot water for the shower. Hopefully I'll be able to use natural thermosyphon . You video is very clear and concice . Cheers

Was considering this approach in a vest I am about to buy but realize I will be carrying plb with me on the dingy when I would not be having the vest so plb needs to stay in a removable waist pack for more flexibility such as when snorkeling.

Great detailed video, thanks for that! I have a Webasco hydronic system on my 1883 C&C 43 Landfall. The engine is tied into the water heater together with the Webasco and has 4 valves that can be used to isolate them where they meet at this hot water tank. With the valves open, the engine could pump coolant throughout the entire loop and heat the boat (with just the engine) if I had a way to operate the individual fans in the heaters. Like you, I have a concern with having such a large loop with potential failure points that could lose coolant and put my engine at risk. Right now I feel pretty safe with the ability to only heat the domestic water keeping the valves to the entire heating system closed. Because you have a heat exchanger from the engine to the heating loop, your risk is minimal. I was wondering what heat exchanger you used and if you found much loss through exchanger vs having the large single loop system I presently have. I know these hydronic heaters are used in vehicles (trucks) in the same single loop but have fewer failure points that these much larger systems on a boat.

Great video! Thanks a lot. I plan to install a similar system in my Volvo C304

Great video. Jus trying to make a thermo to V run, from BMW but might end u using a thermo to C/V. But thinking of trying to loop into the existing water tank that is heated by the motor. And then onto a radiator or two but that is going to take some planning as there will have to be switches I guess.

The less conductive metal on show to the electrolyte (seawater) the less galvanic action can occur, the less your little prop anodes will suffer. Use an enamel spray paint that protects the metal from water ingress, then antifoul on top of that. Stay away from the tight moving gaps of the folding prop mechanism with the paints ie blade gaps and pivot pin holes. When you fit the anodes, tighten the bolts then ALWAYS tap the anode with a hammer a few times (not too hard) and then retighten the bolts, youll find the bolts were not as tight as they were before tapping the anode. ALWAYS do this on mechanical items that vibrate such as props, saildrives and prop shafts. TIGHTEN TAP TIGHTEN youll never have an anode come loose ever again.

Can you add a oil pressure switch (NO) on the engine and when the engine starts it will pass the grounding leg to your relay activating it and cut it off when the engine stops. Would this make it automatic and then the remote switch would be left on all the time or off when you need to shut the system off.

Fantastic video - thank you

My PLB is attached with paracord. I wouldn't trust that bracket and elastic piece. My Spinlock has a small outer pocket which fits the PLB perfectly. Being a belt and suspenders guy, I also have a MOB transmitter fastened in the same manner inside.

Great video. Building a sailboat and going to have same basic system. I have a Webasto heater. A couple of questions, if I may? I see you are running the glycol solution through a heat exchanger to warm the engine, so how does the warm engine coolant in the heat exchanger get circulated through the block? Is there another pump involved? Also, is the heater isolated from the accommodations, in it's own locker for example? Thanks for sharing. Always good to compare notes. Take care.

floorheating would generally be a good idea i believe as it maximizes the surfaceare of energytransfer. your energy loss rom all windows etc. must outperform the abilities of your fans volume per time unit at a certain temperaturepoint. For safetyreasons i would go for an aditional airheater, so that you have redundancy aswell as means to speed up the process.

I tested mine with a ziplock bag full of water. But this is good One question, when you take the tube away does it go back to reading ---? or does it stay on the depth reading even when the tube was removed?

Thankyou for that explanation. I'm looking after the rubber bushing separator. I have the same setup, an MS25s and recently I installed a Volvo Penta 2 blade folding propeller. The original separator is metallic. I'm unable to find the part number of that rubber separator.

Thank you, great info. Had the same problem.

Great video, Invaluable information, thanks, I do not have a heat exchanger on my engine so I am in the process of installing hot water heater and cabin heating in the same fashion.

What a great video!!! thanks very much. Super helpful.

To further add some detail sound travels at 1500 m/s in water vs 340 m/s in air. This means there is a ratio of 4.4. So with this 1 meter tube in air multiple by 4.4 = 4.4 expected water depth.

Excellent video...

Rather than measuring 20 cm if you gave references in "fid lengths" they would always be relative to the size rope you are working with. 20 cm might be suitable for 1 cm diameter rope but not for 12 cm diameter rope, for example.

How would you calculate the correct size of heater for boat size?

Great video and guide.... is condensation a problem for you and if so how do you mitigate that?

thank you the was amazing and very helpful~

Nice looking addition.

Good video

5:03 which is why with my 6D and my PLB1 the PLB1 sits in a separate Spinlock pouch on the waistband. What that does give me is the freedom to take the PLB1 with me if I am on a larger vessel where we don’t use lifejackets except for deck work in poor weather. It’s great to have it fitted as you show, but I do think outside of the life jacket gives more flexibility of use. Certainly in my commercial world where I may work on differing vessels who may have already supplied lifejackets for me. Certainly an informative video 👍🏻👍🏻

I have never (I mean NEVER) commented on a video before but I am so impressed by the clarity and focus of your video I simply must say how much I wish other people would do the same - there is so much time wasting rubbish on various forums about this subject but you have hit the nail right on the head and I wanted to applaud you for it. Fantastic job and thank you!

gut gemacht

Great video. Might I ask why you plumbed the cabin heaters in series as opposed to parallel? I’d think there would be several advantages to running them in parallel. 1. They would all be the same temperature. 2. You could plumb in shut off valves if you ever had to remove one for service and still have heat at the others.

Excellent video! All shown and told! Good job !

just got done finishing my install of a hydronic heating system. I have watched your video multiple times to get a good understanding. I share your assessment of sluggish performance from the heating of the air. I have copper tube radiators with computer fans. I am wondering if a car style heater matrix would deliver more heat to air transfer. I can't say I feel like replacing my heat exchangers to find out, but I sure am curious. thanks for the video. Cheers from Seattle, WA US

You need to add one of these to your boat heating. The saloon will be like toast for the winter th-cam.com/video/uvLQO15Mbr0/w-d-xo.html

Thank you for this film. Since I only use original square parts from volvo penta, the zink anode on the sail drive makes a better job too. I would never buy the zink anode from any discounter any more. I believe, the chinese producer of the cheaper anodes use a different material as volvo penta use for their square parts. When I found corrosion on each sides of the big rubber seal between the gear box and the saildrive, I realized, that the anode on the sail drive near the propeller did not make a good job. (Sorry for my bad english)

Thank you for the information!! Really useful