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No, the grinding wheel and shroud that I used fit perfectly for proper grinding. I have noticed that there might be differences in the way different brands fit together. Is there any room for adjustment on the shroud to move it up higher?

No, but my shroud (Dust Shroud Pro from Home Depot) has almost like a little shock absorbers so that you can press down on the wheel itself while the shroud stays in place, if that makes any sense? So instead of the wheel staying flush with the concrete, I can apply back and forward pressure because of the shock absorbers on the shroud. Unfortunately, I was having a really hard time with knowing what kind of pressure to put down on the thin set without cutting into the concrete. I did notice the wheel was a little bit further up than the shroud skirt. I found a spacer and maybe will try again tomorrow.

Good luck with that, hopefully that’ll do the trick. Thanks for watching!

You bet. Thanks for the replies!

Both the front rail and the back rail are one piece. Thanks for watching!

@DIYBoomers I'm am going to buy that fence...thank you

You’re welcome! I’m sure you’ll enjoy the new fence, it transforms the old Craftsman. Good luck with it. If you don’t mind, you can buy it through the Amazon link down in the description of the video and I will earn a small commission from the purchase. It doesn’t cost you anything more. Thanks!

You’re welcome. Thanks for the kind words. I believe that the T3 is a great improvement for the old 113 and I’m sure that you’re going to thoroughly enjoy the upgrade. Thanks for watching!

You can most certainly do that. The only reason I didn’t do it that way is simply because it would also require countersinking the holes in the rails to accommodate the bolt heads. Since I didn’t have the bits to do that, I drilled the table top and used the pre drilled (and countersunk) holes in the rails. Thanks for watching!

Absolutely right. I have heeded the advice of several since posting this video and no longer wear gloves when operating tools that can grab gloves/clothing. Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching.

Tap the link below to see the Johns Manville GoBoard Installation Instructions that state 1 1/4” backer board screws can be used as well as 1 1/2” galvanized roofing nails. Scroll down to the last page of the instructions to see the Approved Materials section that lists these fasteners. I’ll also give you a link below for the GoBoard Fasteners at Amazon if you’d rather use them. I like these as they have a larger head that helps avoid tearing the waterproof layer of the GoBoard. www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/GB-001-GoBoard-Installation-Instructions-and-Technical-Data.pdf GoBoard Fasteners - 550 pieces amzn.to/41F4aSm

That’s great that you mastered the extremely complex functions of a T square and choose to take the extra time to square the fence before every cut (some may think THAT’S a symptom of idiocy). With a better fence, that’s not necessary. I myself, prefer the accuracy and convenience of it always being square, and I believe my OEM fence is where it belongs, in a landfill.

Good thought, but actually, I didn’t run the tile all the way out to the corner. There was a 1/8” difference between the drywall itself and the GoBoard, and the same 1/8” difference between the GoBoard and the sidewall of the shower base. Luckily, the varied thickness of the thinset and silicone on the shower base wall evened out everything and it turned out ok. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!

I upgraded my fence to the Delta 36 T3 on the old Craftsman and couldn’t be happier with it, it’s a really good fence. Check out my video where I did the upgrade (link below). Thanks for watching! Upgrade Craftsman Rip Fence to Delta 36 T3 Rip Fence th-cam.com/video/v88O_ED8akY/w-d-xo.html

@@DIYBoomers Thank you

You’re welcome. I also have an Amazon link for the fence in the description of the upgrade video if you’re interested.

You’re welcome! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Yeah, it’s amazing what these upgrades can do for the old Craftsman. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! And thanks for watching!

You’re welcome. Always glad to hear the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!

Thank you, always good to hear that the videos are helpful. And thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! Yeah, I was very pleased with the results of the angle grinder and the grinding wheel, it made a tough job a breeze! Thanks for watching and thanks for subscribing!

You’re welcome! Glad to see that the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!

Sounds good. Yes, everyone needs a way to double check the cut line. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!

Fair point. Initially, you can’t get more accurate than using the freshly cut base. For those who are interested in accuracy to thousandths of an inch, they should consider using the 5-cut method. For the casual user, referencing the freshly cut sled is fine initially, but after any blade changes or adjustments, the cut line on the base could end up being somewhat compromised. That’s why I would recommend using the blade for reference as the manufacturer details in its instructions, but that’s just me. To attain the ultimate in accuracy, you can drive yourself nuts with the many precision tools and methods to get and maintain results in alignments that the average user isn’t going to be concerned with. At any rate, thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching!

@smorgasbord42 I’m thinking I might have spoken too soon. Being that I hadn’t been doing any woodworking for years (until I recently retired), I’ve still got a lot to learn. When you mentioned the possibility of blade/miter slot misalignment, I did a brief search on the subject and stopped looking once I saw someone using an alignment gauge and figured this was only being done by the most serious woodworkers. I wrote it off as such and suggested the average woodworker wouldn’t be concerned with it. Looking into it further, I see now that you were right about taking it into consideration and it’s something that everyone should be doing for accuracy and safety. It’s not complicated, and an alignment gauge isn’t all that expensive. I even see a lot of folks doing it with just a combination square. Besides ensuring accuracy and cutting down on burn marks, it enhances safety by helping in preventing kick back. So I just wanted to say thanks again for your input, and as a result, I’m thinking I should probably do an update video that covers doing the alignment in relation to the sled, fence and for general purposes. I’ll mention that one of my viewers on the sled video got me headed in the right direction. 😎

Depending on if you include all the features that are included in the Powertec sled, you could spend upwards of $150 or more when you factor in the cost of the sled material, some t-trac, the flip stop, a miter bar, the hardware for making miter cuts, a hold down clamp and possibly a dovetail router bit to to route a slot for the hold down clamp and the miter hardware. And even at that, there’s no settings for exact miter angle cuts. Now obviously you could save some of that if you go cheap on the sled material and forego the manufactured accessories by making do with homemade makeshift features. Lots of variables, it just depends on what you want. Factoring in your time to design and build one with all the features of the Powertec, it’s hard to beat the $119 if you can catch it on sale at that price (IMO).

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

Always happy to hear that the videos are useful! Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!

@grouponful Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@BrenQ99 Thanks! Not a terribly difficult job, but what a huge difference it makes in the looks of a typical contractor grade mirror installation. Always happy when a DIY project turns out as well as this one did. Thanks for watching!

@elizabethc9832 Thanks! Yeah, it’s a BIG change to a simple tool. It could gum up the works when stopping a bead with older caulk guns. You had to become good at hitting the release lever on the back as you were stopping. This one took care of that. I give it a big thumbs up. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!

Yes, thanks for pointing that out for everyone. Although we didn’t extend anything beyond the outside edges of the cuts, we did place sheets of plastic and cardboard directly underneath the cutting lines. Also, due to the give in the carpet/carpet mat, it’s better to place the mirror on a rigid surface for snapping the cut. We just didn’t want to try carrying it down the stairs and our entire 2nd floor is carpeted (outside of the bathrooms). Thanks for watching!

@pra3t0rian Thanks. We bought the Metrie Shiplap at Lowes and I don’t see it any longer online at Lowes. My point is that you would have to research the brand of MDF that you’re going to use to make sure it’s ok for use in a bathroom. I emailed Metrie before purchasing and asked about that issue. Since the Metrie Shiplap that we used was primed and pre painted, the manufacturer said it would be fine as long as the cuts would be painted over and as long as it doesn’t have ongoing contact with standing water. I have seen that some MDF products are made to be moisture resistant. We haven’t had any issues with our installation, but I would suggest doing research first to make sure it’s ok. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects!

@ awesome thanks.

@jimjudge344 Yes, in order for the fence to fit without any modification to the fence or the table saw, the table depth should be 27”, as it is on my Craftsman. The brackets on the fence are set for this depth. Another consideration is the thickness of the table. My table is 1 1/2” thick (the holes need to be 1 1/4” below the top of the table). If your dimensions aren’t the same, I found an article that describes how modifications were made on a table saw that was shorter in depth and only 1 3/8” thick (link below). I don’t know if it’s worth doing, but looks like it can be done. Just curious, what are the dimensions are on your saw? forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/vintage-power-tools/39336-installation-of-delta-36-t30-t2-30-fence-on-beaver-34090a-table-saw

@ Excellent! Thanks for the info. I check both boxes so I’m good to go. Next stop… Amazon. No more crappy rip fence!

@@jimjudge344 Great, you’re welcome. Good luck with your upgrade and thanks for watching!

Actually, what we did was we cut the drywall on the walls an inch and a half down from the ceiling which allowed plenty of room to secure the GoBoard into the double 2x4 plate on the top of the wall. This way we didn’t have to deal with a joint at the ceiling. Then we stopped the tile short of the ceiling also since it’s far above where any water will be on the wall. Check out the Johns Manville video (link below) that details using a mesh tape and drywall mud to make the transition. th-cam.com/video/uu8l44t3ldY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gNEEhf5WRIzgIPMG

@DIYBoomers is there any reason I could not tile all the way up to the ceiling but still using the method leaving 1.5" drywall down to tape/seal the goboard to drywall? It just looks better IMO for a smaller shower to tile all the way up. I wanted to tile entire wall from shower then out across wall as well. Only goboard about 6-7" away pass tub then transition to drywall. Use mepei ecoprime on drywall then continue tile across wall.

Not a problem at all to take it up to the ceiling. The main reason we left it just short is because that’s where 4 full (large format tiles) came up to. Extending the tile outside of the shower onto the drywall is fine as long as it is not going to get excessively wet. The only caution is adhesion on the drywall, but you have already thought about that. Using the Mapei Eco Prim Grip will prepare the drywall for better adhesion. Sounds like you have it all under control. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!

I leave 1/8 gaps in the corners and fill with sealant. That sealant needs to get in those corner for waterproofing.

@Robert-hs8yf Absolutely. Good eye! I butted the GoBoard in the corners only to realize my mistake shortly afterwards. What I ended up doing was cutting away an 1/8” gap in the corners with a razor knife so that I could go ahead and seal them. Better late than never.

@centenarioguy I don’t know what box you’re looking at but the 1 1/4” GoBoard fasteners that I used are for use with 1/4”, 1/2” and 5/8” GoBoard Panels. Look at the box in the video, it’s identical to the box in the link below, which is on a Johns Manville webpage. You can see 1/4”, 1/2” and 5/8” on the top of the box and detailed in the Data Sheet that you can click on. www.jm.com/en/goboard/goboard-fasteners/

We used VersaBond LFT from the Home Depot, which is what we used for our tile. LFT stands for Large Format Tile (ours was 24” x 24”). Below is a link for the thinset we used. www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-VersaBond-LFT-50-lb-White-Fast-Setting-Medium-Bed-Mortar-for-Large-Format-Tile-and-Stone-VBLFTMW50/205789804

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Most appreciated. Yes, we enjoy doing the work and we always like hearing from viewers that the videos are helpful. Best wishes to you also and thanks for watching!

Hello, doing well, how are you? Good question, generally, caulking is applied to seal and finish edges of trim and such indoors and also used outdoors to seal windows and doors for weatherproofing. Two general types of caulk are silicone and acrylic. Filling the joints between cement board is normally done with mortar and mesh tape. Usually, this is done with the same thinset that is used for setting the tile. Check out two of our videos with the links below. One is using Drip Free Caulk Guns but it shows applying caulk. The other is a video on installing Hardie Backer Board which is a cement board and it shows how to apply the thinset and mesh tape in the joints of the backer board. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects! Here’s the links. Caulking th-cam.com/video/a-k2aci3A6s/w-d-xo.html Backer Board Joints th-cam.com/video/LloB425IfGg/w-d-xo.html

Thanks! Yes, it can cause a bit of tension at times, but it sounds like you have the solution. Patience and the understanding that you both are working towards the same goal. It’s definitely very satisfying learning how to do the renovations and completing the work. Part of the process is researching to the point that you’re doing the work properly, but it sounds like you guys are doing the homework. An added benefit of doing it yourself is obviously saving a ton of money. And a part of that is something I also really like - getting to keep the tools that are necessary to do the work! The internet is invaluable for DIYers. You can find information on just about anything and no matter what your level of expertise, it can take you to the next level. If you haven’t already found this channel, you might enjoy the renovations that are done on @diywife. Always interested to hear stories like yours with the passion and determination to do the home renovations. Have you considered posting content on your channel documenting your projects? At any rate, thanks for watching and good luck with your renovations!

Thanks! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Also enjoy hearing that you two are enthused and inspired for your renovations. Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! Yeah, it looks like a tough job, but actually can be done easily with the proper tools and procedure. Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! And thank you for sharing this information for veterans and service workers. Great price at $250! Good job on repairing the old Jack, it’s always satisfying to fix something rather than getting rid of it!

You’re welcome! I’m always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. No matter what our level of understanding is on a given topic, TH-cam videos are out there to help take us to the next level in just about anything you’re interested in. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects!

Personally, I decided to go with the John Deere brand grease since John Deere recommends using their Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease for heavy-duty protection on grease points like wheel bearings and U-joints. This grease is designed to withstand high temperatures and extreme pressures. If you decide on using another grease, I would suggest looking at the characteristics to see if it is comparable to what the JD grease provides. But that’s just me, you do you. Thanks for watching!

From what I can tell, it seems that John Deere may have changed over to sealed bearings on front wheel hubs on some of their models, and therefore eliminating grease fittings on the wheels. I say that with some hesitation because I couldn’t find a lot of information on the subject. I think documentation generally lags changes in design and I did see a mention in a John Deere operation manual that notes that the S180 does not have fittings on the wheel hubs. I found a discussion online from an S100 owner that also discovered that he had no front wheel fittings. The responses varied from “don’t worry about it if there’s no fittings” to “check with your dealer if you’re concerned it’s a mistake”. Someone mentioned that his dealer had no explanation for it and offered to swap his tractor out for another that did have fittings. From my experience with trying to find information on the correct mulching insert when I bought my S130, I definitely see lagging information, or non existent information. So I would guess that you more than likely have sealed bearings in the wheel hubs, and therefore don’t need to be concerned with it. However, it wouldn’t hurt to contact your dealer to see if they have any information on the topic to be sure. Thanks for watching and I’m sure you’ll be enjoying your new S130!

Great, you’re welcome! Sounds like a good project. I’m sure you’ll be happy with the difference in the old Craftsman! Thanks for watching.

Good deal, I always enjoy finding tools that are a good value. This is one of those tools.

Thanks. That’s not a bad idea, it would insure that it isn’t going anywhere. Thanks for watching!

I would guess that you were very happy with the ease of installation. It’s one of the many products that we were really happy that we decided to use in our bathroom remodel. We highly recommend it! Thanks for watching!

Thanks, always glad to hear that the videos are useful! I agree with your assessment of the drain hose, I have no idea why it’s not more widely used. I’m sure you’ll really be enjoying your new S170! Thanks for watching and you’re welcome.

Thanks. Yeah, hadn’t done much woodworking until I recently retired. Others have also pointed that out and it absolutely makes sense. Have since corrected that procedure. Thanks for watching.

@@DIYBoomers anytime! I subbed and planning to watch more videos this evening

@@woodworkingandepoxy643 Thanks

Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful, thanks for watching!

It’s unanimous!

Thanks! Likewise on yours. Looks like you’re off to a great start with your channel. It takes a while to get traction, but I think your content will eventually pay off. Thanks for watching and good luck!

@@DIYBoomers Thank you! I appreciate it!