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I've a follow up video to this, highlighting some of the more subtle changes between the RS1.0 and the RS2.0. it's also compared to my full blown MS1.0. the 2.0 is actually stiffer than the RS1.0 and not far away from the MS1.0. Then I've put it into context by pointing out the front hubs of my MS1.0 are more than half the price of the full RS2.0 kit!

You're right. All the suspension pickups etc are identical though. Ah, he's out of jail. He's just learned to close his browsers 😂😂

​​@@Gingapaint Ohhh was he looking at Xrays? 🤣 Ps: take my Frontie out a run 👀

Ah, I've a video to show you! 😂

@@Gingapaint 😱

Our RS2.0 will hit the track, as built. I do have the Roll Bar kit for it, but in reality I usually don't run them. The RS1.0 we ran a really light Anti Roll bar front and rear, and just introduced a 1mm spacer on the rear hub upper link. It was really close to being spot on out of the box. We've run the RS2.0 on the wrong tyres at our local Tuesday night club, and although low on grip (tyre choice) it was really well balanced. Looking forward to it's proper debut soon!

Hi Adrian, I used to paint commercially for Club racers, world champions and everyone in between! Unfortunately with health issues I've had to cut back to only painting for a handful of friends. I'm trying to pass on what I can, though :) If you're based in Northern Ireland, my buddy Graham Kenny ( KPAINT) is really good and efficient. Otherwise, I can point you in the right direction :)

@@Gingapaint ok no worries thanks for letting me know. I'm in Staffordshire (UK)

I'm trying to think who's local. Terry from Tels Shells, Jon from RCS, Paul from Puppy Paint are all great. Best bet will be to ask who's available at your local club. If you're really stuck and in no rush, I have a B7 body sitting at the moment. You can email me at gingapaint@yahoo.co.uk

Hi Matt. I was a little wary of how flexible this would be, as well. When it's all built I would say it's actually slightly more rigid than the RS1.0. I'll be doing a comparison video with the old car and the MS1.0 after this weekend. If you haven't already, hit subscribe so you don't miss it! :)

​@@Gingapaint brilliant thanks for the quick response, I've subscribed 👍

@@matt313131313 thanks! Hope you enjoy the rambling! 😁

There are some crossover parts. Front hubs and steering arms are BD12, the Hubs cross over to the MS1.0. springs etc are compatible too, so there would be no need for 2 different sets. At the price point, it would make an awesome "spec" car for a race series too!

No wheels or tyres in the kit. It's not a bad thing, I used to have loads of those useless Proline treaded things from tc3s etc years ago! We run control tyres at our club. They're the same tyre as the BRCA nationals. For bodies , start with an Extreme Twister and go from there. This car will run an HPI Impreza Type C, because I've 4 of them, I bought them cheap and my young fella is hard on them!! 😂😂

We just find the shocks are easier to make equal with the holes drilled. The diaphragm is there to compensate for the additional volume that the shaft takes up on compression. If it's sealed above this, the air trapped can act like a spring, which works well in an off road shock, but can make shorter shocks difficult to get consistent. Also means that the oil damps and the spring rebounds. For tyres, we're running a control tyre at our club. Rush I believe. Body wise, it's personal but an Extreme Twister is always a good place to start! :) hope that helps!

Yokomo kit quality is unreal. Instructions aren't quite Tamiya quality, but the fit and finish of parts are unlike any other kit, especially at this price point!

I've had it built for a day now, and I just don't know how they're doing it for the money.....

Ah cool! I was chatting to him, but never thought to ask what he was running 🙈

@@Gingapaint Easy done! ☺️ He loves indoor so we'll see him at the sharp end 👌

He seemed to have a good time. Great to see him running indoors over the winter.

That's the problem with touring cars :( With the solid, semi tub chassis this should be better on less than perfect surfaces than other belt driven touring cars.

I've not had chance yet. The guys who are running at our club are loving it, though. Both have reported big improvements from the BD12. I'll have mine out for a run at the next meeting and hopefully get chance to complete a report, although I have the RS2.0 to run too....🙈

The previous car (RS1.0) was only £199 and we found it properly competitive in our "blinky" class against current topline kits!

Hi, I'll need to check at home. I *think* it was a 29t pinion on the kit spur. The kit actually comes with a pinion included, to get you running. There are some clearance issues with a larger pinion, but I've a few smaller spur gears to try on track over the next few weeks.

Thanks! The kids have tried their best to make sure it's not so pretty anymore, but it's still hanging in there! Certainly putting up a better fight than the kit body 😁 Glad it could help, it should look awesome with the Trail Boss on!

Hi Corrie, the photos were taken with a Zoo Racing Zoo-Zilla, but on track I used either a Proline P63, or Xtreme Twister in ETS weight (painted plain white, so I wouldn't get annoyed if it got destroyed!)

Glad it helped! The new body is still going strong for us, despite the kids best efforts! 😂

Exactly what I was going to say 😊

If your mini racing is like our mini racing, you'll have the opportunity again soon!

Cheers! Enjoy! 😁

It's a good call. I edited the race footage together on Sunday night, not thinking.... Maybe the next meetings should be at the end? Probably needs more structure, but I don't want it to be half an hour long, either....

@@Gingapaint well I personally enjoyed this one the best so far but you have a few seconds at the start of the video to try and “Hook” people’s interest. I’d definitely try adding some race footage etc to the very beginning. It might work, it might not but I do think it’s worth a go

Great to hear on all accounts! Thanks!

It's new age industrial techno. You wouldn't understand. Or, my microphone was playing up. Either orm

@@Gingapaint I like the new age Techno excuse 😂

The day I found out about it was a revelation. Just means you don't get the "Hot Spots" or washed out looking Fluro, as it's difficult to spray everywhere consistently. You do lose a little bit of ultimate brightness, but it's a much richer Fluro colour.

Hi Dan. By paint coming off easily, is it flaking off, or rubbing off? If it's flaking, it's most likely preparation, or first coat being too heavy (check the next video) or the wrong paint type. If you want to send photos etc, you can message me on my Facebook page and I can see if I can identify the issue :) If it's simply rubbing off, I back everything with spray lacquer (I use Halfords clear, just because it's easy to get). Just first coat needs to be light again :)

@Gingapaint it's not flaking off which is a plus I guess. It's rubbing off. I will try the spray lacquer. Thanks for the tip 👍🏻

@@danreid6416 I run a small amount of light masking tape on areas that I know the body will rub. I know the Nitro guys I help out use a lot of "Shoe Goo" to protect against fuel spilling etc too. I'll try to get my buddy Brad over at some point to show what he does to his 8th scale bodies, he's pretty easy on them.

@@Gingapaint that would be great. I will try your tips. Thanks again!

Yeah, so back Fluro Yellow with Opaque Yellow etc etc. You'll lose a little bit of the overall brightness, but it's a much richer, more consistent colour.

Iridescent is a little different, as you can manipulate the finish, depending on backing colour.

Absolutely fella. I usually record this on Sunday and Monday evenings. 😁

You were invited!! Lol! Yourself and Bradley are to be the comic relief! 😂😂😂 I'll be rounding up after RCNi on Sunday if you wanna call over.

Superstar! Thanks Jim. If you get chance, pop me a race calendar across. I'll try to get over and do a quick club visit video too.

Hero! ❤️

Hi David, all parts for this came from MB Models (rccarshop.com) except the Schumacher ARB Mounts, which came straight from Schumacher (racing-cars.com) I'm not sure about availability elsewhere, I'm afraid. Part numbers are listed in the video if that helps at all.

Still far too clean.... It'll get a rattle soon 😈

@@Gingapaint I'll show it some track, once the 17.5 championship is in the bag. 😛 *The podium spots are up for grabs but it's pretty much sealed. Bamber 🏆🥇

Don't get too comfortable on your perch, come indoors season 😉

@@Gingapaint Ohh that's a different animal 🤣

@@chrisb_rc I can't wait, to be honest. Might not run the MS1.0 until indoors. The RS1.0 needs a rattle and could see Ballymoney. Are many running the Justock combo yet?

It was an INCREDIBLE concert!! Everything I thought it would be! Hopefully you'll see them soon!

Hi Leslie, the RS1.0 runs a standard 1/10th scale 190mm width Touring car body. My RS currently has a "Zoo Racing" touring car body on, but there's a massive selection to choose from! You can see mine here: th-cam.com/video/zFfEjEUS0yM/w-d-xo.html

No problem, just give me a shout if I can help with anything! 😁

There is a bit of a trick to this, to avoid "hot spots" etc 😉

That's a great point actually. I'll pop some Fluro down next and show the different points to help out 😁