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Reetz Ford Repair
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2019
Intro to Ford Model A controls
Here are the bare bones basics of operating a Ford Model A!
FLOORBOARD:
Brake, Clutch, Gas, Starter Switch
These are fairly self-explanatory if you've driven a manual car.
STEERING COLUMN:
Ignition Timing, Throttle, Headlight Switch, Horn
Most important thing here: ignition timing should be not advanced when starting the car. Think: lever is _up_ when starting the car _up_.
It might be confusing that you have both a gas pedal and an adjustment on the steering column. This one is more akin to a cruise control, so you can set it and not have to press the pedal.
PASSENGER AREA:
Choke, Carb settings (rich/lean)
Start the car with this knob pulled out (choked) and the knob turned about one turn from fully closed. After the car starts, push the knob back in. As the car warms up, you can tighten the knob back up too.
FLOORBOARD:
Brake, Clutch, Gas, Starter Switch
These are fairly self-explanatory if you've driven a manual car.
STEERING COLUMN:
Ignition Timing, Throttle, Headlight Switch, Horn
Most important thing here: ignition timing should be not advanced when starting the car. Think: lever is _up_ when starting the car _up_.
It might be confusing that you have both a gas pedal and an adjustment on the steering column. This one is more akin to a cruise control, so you can set it and not have to press the pedal.
PASSENGER AREA:
Choke, Carb settings (rich/lean)
Start the car with this knob pulled out (choked) and the knob turned about one turn from fully closed. After the car starts, push the knob back in. As the car warms up, you can tighten the knob back up too.
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Fuel - How to Troubleshoot a Ford Model A
มุมมอง 7K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Most of the time, Model A's have electrical issues not fuel issues. Here's a quick way to check that you have fuel delivery to your carburetor, and an explanation of some of the filters you can install if you have issues with a rusty fuel tank.
Electrical Issues - How to Troubleshoot a Ford Model A
มุมมอง 62K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Rough run? No start? Watch this overview of the Ford Model A's common problems with the ignition coil, points, condenser, and distributor. Remember, when troubleshooting electrical problems on a Model A, it's easy to accidentally leave the key on for an extended period. This can overheat and destroy the ignition coil. Be safe, wear protective gear, don't hurt yourself. We can't be responsible f...
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Can a bad ammeter cause you to not have power to the coil/points?
Very good video. It would help to know how to test the condenser and coil so that I know which one to replace.
I really enjoyed the three videos. I look forward for some more. Thanks
Só não mostrou como é fácil achar o ponto do primeiro cilindro , invertendo o parafuso que esta na polia do motor , invertendo-o , até encontrar o rebaixo na parte interna .
More content please
I have possible grounding issue on my Model A. I recently replaced the battery when it wouldn't turn the starter after sitting for maybe a month. But it was four and a half years old, so I replaced it. Then, with the new battery, it started the car once and the next time I tried it, nothing. The horn wouldn't honk and the starter wouldn't make a sound. So I took the battery back to the shop. They said it was still fully charged but I replaced it anyhow. With the next battery, it was the same thing except it didn't even start once. Again, the horn didn't work either. But the lights did work. I thought I had a spade type fuse behind the firewall but didn't find it. I do have another fuse but it's just for the cowl lights I believe. Should I get a voltmeter to try and see where I'm loosing power?
A volt meter would tell you a lot. Often the ground (remember, it’s a positive ground system) connection to the frame is not good enough. I have even had a failure inside the battery cables where the ends attach. With the starter not turning over, the problem has to be very near to the battery since the only connection to the starter is from chassis ground on one side, and the starter switch on the other side of the battery. The key doesn't even have to be on. Good luck!
Thanks. There's got to be a bad connection in there someplace because the horn has honked a few times when I increase the amperage of the battery charger from 2 amps, trickle charge to 15 amps but then it stops working again. Such frustration.
I found that mechanical problems are such a "hands on" kind of problem, nobody could correctly diagnose mine. You're only guessing unless you're right there with the car. So I made one more attempt at it and found the source of the problem. The two small bolts which hold the clamp which clamps the negative battery cable to the battery terminal had backed off a bit. Retighten them and I was back in business. The horn honked, the starter turned over and the car started. So check your battery terminal clamp bolts as well as doing all the other little jobs to make sure you have a good ground if you step on the starter and don't get a sound.
@@jimervin1637 Glad you got it sorted, Jim. Always good to hear another Model A is back in business.
Could you guys make a video on how to wire my dashboard together? I'm having trouble understanding how to wire my ignition switch.
Very good explanation about the distributer. Question I have a Model B, just put in new set of points, car started right up but now I have no power on the road. I did not change my timing. Any ideas? Thanks
Hey Rod, so a few questions: you’re saying it runs on the road, but it’s lacking power at speed? Which distributor is it?We’ll see what we can do to help.
@@reetzfordrepair thanks for the reply the distributor is same as a model A but no adjustable timing. I installed new points and it started right up, idled nice. Took it down the road no power to get even into third. 1932 Ford B. Played with the gap seemed to help a bit,
@@rodthiesen7309 is it a Mallory distributor? Sounds like an advance adjustment issue, whether it’s manually adjusted or via the centrifugal advance built-in to the distributor. But it definitely sounds like it needs to be advanced. Is there a column advance lever and is it hooked up?
@@reetzfordrepair No level for timing on this car. It had power before I changed the points, and I did not change the timing. I guess i will try to advance it.
Short story turned headlights on while driving and vehicle died won't start !! What does that sound like.
Are any more videos in the works? I just found this channel and was incredibly excited at how the information was presented.... the heartbroken to only find two videos.
Thanks for the kind words! We’re thinking about making more this year. What do you think we should make next?
Well I have an entire truck to work on.... so I'll need the whole thing eventually. Dosen't matter where you start. (Brakes maybe)
What a great video...! Got me out of a jamb very easily and quickly... First I had no spark in distributor and discovered corrosion on the ignition wire at the distributor... Betsy is purring once again...! Thank You
Ligjts on dash board but can't start
good night , i have a ford , year 29 i live in Campinas SP Brazil i have a problem , water passed into the engine through the inlet valve of the fourth cylinder , the gasket is not burnt , i can not know how this water passed i have already removed the valve and i didn't see any cracks, can you give me any tips
This video was very helpful and informative. He explained everything so well. I like videos that show all the places to look for problems. How about a video showing a total distributor rebuild/service and how to set the timing on the Model A ?
That’s a great idea. Next time we’re all in the same town maybe we’ll make that video. So glad you found the video helpful.
Thank you for the video. Great job!
You said it was about 6volts. For the spark? Isn’t it a lot more? Or is that only when the coil is running / car running or starter is turning it over?
Unless the points are closed, you should have about 6v on both sides of the coil (and on both of the terminal box connections). When the points close, it goes down 0v on the distributor side because the primary is then shorting to ground. The secondary part of the coil has 1000's of volts. Hope that helps!
Nice job explaining what to look for when doing a rebuild or troubleshooting
Thanks so much, you explained it very well.
Great video Mr. Reetz, I learned a bunch here, but at 5:35 min you said "the coil discharges and dumps all that current through the condenser to the spark plugs. Isn't the condenser in the point circuit to prevent arcing? Am I confused?
You are correct. In the video it was stated a bit confusingly. The condenser is there to make a clean break in the circuit, keeping the points from arcing as they interrupt the circuit. Thanks for clarifying that comment.
If you guys would make a video on how to do timing that would be great. You guys are very good at explaining things and understandable. Thank you for the videos!
Thank you. I inherited a 31 am having a difficult time with it. Ive done a valve job wit new valves springs and guides, replaced the coil, and rebuilt the distributor. Idles fine and runs fine in 1st and 2nd but no power in 3rd. Suspect a valve is hanging up. Ive ruled out most of my electrical issues thinking of pulling the head after checking compression but how hard is it tor replace the lifters and tapetts? Short of pulling the motor out I don’t see haw to get to them. Thank you Russ
Hey Russ, you can change the tappets with the engine in the car, but it is a lot easier with the engine on a stand. With it in the car, you would need to remove the manifolds, and valve cover, distributor and head. Using a spring compressor, remove the valves, keepers, springs and guides. Then pull the oil pan. The oil pump will fall out now. The oil pump/distributor and retaining spring can also be removed. Next remove the bolts on the motor mounts that go into the flywheel housing. Now you can jack up the front of the engine and remove the cover from the timing gear and the small side cover. Now pull the lifters up and clamp them with soft clamps to hold them while you remove the camshaft. the lifters can now be dropped out through the oil pan area. Assembly is reverse. After reading this you will see that it is easier to pull the engine and work from a stand. Good luck out there, hope this leads you in the right direction.
Reetz Ford Repair Thank you so here is where I am at; I am waiting for an adaptor for my compression tester., I will check compression if it is good i think the lifters/tappets are good. I don’t have the space or a stand. I have eliminated the electrical when I replace the coil and rebuilt the distributor and new plugs. I checked for a leak on the intake by spraying starter fluid on the manifold and after a 1/3 of a can the engine sputtered and coughed a bit (thinking it got sucked up in the intake) ordered the parts to rebuild the zenith and will replace the float valve with a modern one lord only knows what’s in that carb. If that doesn’t do the trick I will be left with decking the manifolds or replacing them. Hopefully that will do the trick. I love the car it is a blast to drive.
@@menotyou9406 56 years ago, I got a 31 coupe and began tinkering and learning. Had the Ford repair manual and no guidance to help. I was putting the steering column back into the car and as I remember it, I got the steering column case out of position. this caused the range of timing to be off when it was adjusted from inside the car. I drove the car in the night, and when I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing orange!
Runs goid in first and second but no power in direct drive. Have you checked to see if you have the correct polarity on the coil? Wrong polarity can cause rhis same problem. Positive ground can fool anyone installing a new coil.
Hey guys, out driving my ‘30 coupe today and she died. Found that the safety fuse had popped. New fuse, same thing as soon as I put it in. Unhooked the headlight harness and the harness from the base of the column. New fuse, she started and ran for a few seconds, popped the fuse. Checked the amp meter when I put the key in and pressed the starter button and found no movement. I looked at my points, admittedly, the first time and have no idea what I’m looking at. They have some rust and corrosion on them. Could this be the culprit or do I need to start looking elsewhere in the system? I’d sure love for it to be as simple as just needing a points adjustment.
Thinking it’s probably not the points. Try to isolate the problem by doing this: Disconnect the wire on the cutout and tape on a hot wire. This should eliminate all but dash, coil, distributor and interconnecting wires. Could be a short in the terminal box or the fuse holder itself. Ammeter should show discharge before fuse blows. Good luck, hope that helps.
Very Helpful video and nice explanation... it would be nice if more content was uploaded to the channel.. Greetings from a '28 model who lives in Palma de Mallorca (Spain)😎👍. Long time ago...
Thank you so much for your. My grandfather just recently passed away and left his show quality 1938 model 2-door sedan with rumble seat to myself my wife and our four children. The quality of the car is not going to allow me to drive it too often. But Mama didn't say nothing about turning wrenches on this thing LOL
1930*
Thank you so much for such an informative video! Looking forward to more Model A wisdom! Having to relearn some basic things as I grew up on 50s Chevrolet so never dealt with positive ground system. Love the A a d so glad I have one. Still trying to get mine running and road worthy.
Good luck with your Model A, Lothos, and thanks for stopping by. Let us know if you have suggestions for videos that might help you out.
my 31 has a good battery and a good starter when i turn on the key the voltmeter goes down a bit but when i hit the starter on the floor the voltmeter doesnt move and its silence. all i hear is the copper making contact with coper above the starter. could that be the coil? im pulling my hair out. very frustrated. i wanna get this a on the road.
If you don’t have spark at the points, check to see that if you connect the points with just like a screwdriver between ground and the moveable point (with key on! be careful!) then it’s probably just corrosion on the points. A little sandpaper should take care of that. If you don’t have any spark there at all, go back and check that you have 6v on both sides of the coil. Again, make sure the key is on. If you don’t have voltage there, it’s likely a wiring issue between the starter and the terminal box. Another issue could be the key switch shorting to the outside conduit. If that’s shorted, it’d keep you from getting spark. But then you also wouldn’t have spark at the points. Let us know how it goes, good luck.
All this is fine but you must start with making sure you have a good battery, one with all three cells working. Then make sure you have good grounds, like from the taillight housing to the rear fender and from there to the chassis; from the positive grounding trap (engine or transmission end) to the chassis; and specially make sure you have good ground contact at every place the engine oil pans touches the engine and the chassis. Finally, after all that, check you’re putting the right amount of voltage at the generator’s cut-out output.
Thanks for a concise, informative video. All information and no fluff...nice.
You explain things very nicely and easy to understand. Thank you!
What tutorial video should we make next? What would be helpful or interesting for you?
Reetz Ford Repair how about replacing the windshield glass? I have a 30 Victoria,and I need new glass. I would like to see how the frame/glass is removed and how the new glass is installed.
How to rebuild a distributor would be amazing I’m 20 years old and don’t know to much about these old beauties but I want to learn everything about them just picked up my first modal A
I run a Flathead Ford group called The Flat-Spot and we just added your video to our website to share with our members. Please contact me and let me know your companies info and I will get you added to our business directory. We have over 36K members world wide and I would love to make sure we give you the proper credit. Thanks you for a wonderful video.
Incredibly nice video. Have posted links to this video on several National Model A Club sites and Model A social media sites. Bet you see the number of views shoot up and bet they are all most positive. Well done. Like the interaction between the two individuals in the video.
Michael Eisenbise thanks for the kind words Michael, and we really appreciate you sharing the video. Cheers.
Very helpful to Newbies and Oldies alike. Thanks for posting this video.
Scott Jackson glad to hear it, thanks for stopping by
My problem was a defective plate under the distributor. Erratic spark was due to the plate not stay centered due to wear. and a weak coil. Now starts up with 1/2 turn cranking.
Larry Jacobson glad you got it sorted out!
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
JWilliams81 you’re very welcome, hope it was helpful!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
3:56 just a clarification: Model A's are a positive ground/frame positive ground car, so use the red (positive) lead on a head bolt.