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I’m glad it was helpful - that was the whole reason to record it.

It’s an aftermarket Metra bezel I got on Amazon. Metra 99-5833B Double/Single DIN... www.amazon.com/dp/B01ECPKBFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That’s odd. Every now and again mine will blank the guide lines, but they come back the next time I go into reverse. I also use an aftermarket radio and have programmed the lines on it to match the stock lines for when they don’t appear. I don’t know if the problem lies with the camera I used or the car itself. For me it’s so infrequent that it’s not an issue.

Thanks!

Does the fuel leak throughout or later in the fill up all at once before you stop the pump? It it’s near the end, then you could certainly have a crack in the tank. Do you have a noticeable gas smell in the tank area? I’d say that if you go thru the trouble of dropping the tank to go ahead and replace the fuel pump while you’re in there. A good pump will last longer than 10 years, but I’d hate to have to drop it again in a year or two for that. Let us know what the issue is!

It does leak right after is full at max capacity. This is why i don’t filled up to the max anymore. The fuel smell very strong .

Ok so I dropped the tank and inspected my issue. It turns out that the ring retainer support was cracked. I installed this ring 12 years ago. So im not sure if i over tightened the ring and 12 years later it crack. The ring wasn’t new when idid the installation. Actually is the original from my purchased back in 2003. What are your thoughts on smearing the cement glue around like you did just in case in the future may crack like it happened toyou?

BACK AGAIN! So i was able to get it done with your guidance. I changed the ring which was cracked and the fuel pump which it had nothing bad at all. I just decided to chenge because i had the tank down. Honestly i didn’t had no trouble. I took my sweet time and the ring was giving me a hard time but I got done. I just didn’t want to damage anything. I did stop when I felt frustrated for little things here and there. I have no experience just basic but hey it works.Thank you.

@@godiegogo81Nice! Glad you got it resolved and hopefully this is the end of your issues.

I’m not familiar with that product, but I expect he felt confident in it holding so you should be good. It a really time consuming and slightly arduous repair, so I think it was $500 well spent if you are not able to do it yourself. I know I hope to never have to do it again!

Mine actually ran normally, but in the process of chasing down the problem I unplugged the hose from the EVAP solenoid under the hood which triggered a “large leak” code (don’t recall the exact code) and the engine ran very much like you are describing. The gas smell is more likely the cracks in the tank valves that I fixed in the video, but I’d start checking all the hoses under the hood and make sure they haven’t started to deteriorate. Then work your way from the EVAP solenoid backwards to the fuel tank doing the same thing. Maybe you’ll get lucky, but from my research this seems like a very common problem in these older Expeditions. Best of luck!

My is doing the same issue. What is the EVAP solenoid? Make a video if you can.

I just checked the invoice from “The Specialist” here in Tucson - it was $276. When you combine that w/ the cost of the seats you see this isn’t a budget upgrade, unless you get a screaming deal on the seats. But in my mind and for what I am looking to do w/ my car, it’s worth it. Good luck on your build!

@@shackf16 Thank you that will give me an idea of what to look for as far as cost.. I have the seat currently (didn't really get a super deal on it but i also got it probably a year or two ago just haven't gotten around to actually having it fixed), I am actually using it in a Racing Simulator but of course it is the same "damage" as what you dealt with.. One thing though to know for others wanting to do the upgrade that you are doing. The Focus ST Recaros are actually the same as the RS just with different fabric (non suede for the center panels and usually colored) . Im not sure though if the Thigh Bolsters are a little smaller on the ST seats (cant remember from my research)

@@penguinrcsimulation5540 I'm pretty sure both are identical outside of the upholstery. That's a cool idea to use it in a racing simulator - you should post a video once you have it all done!

When you say external, do you mean they are in the door frame itself / around the window opening rather than in the upper side bolster of the seat? I haven’t seen anyone swap Fusion and Focus seats, but they are similar sized cars and Ford does like to reuse as many parts as possible. If you can get a good deal on the seats, I’d say give it a shot and post a video showing how it worked (or didn’t work and why). Good luck!

I have a different video that shows me replacing the deployed side airbag module. A crash sensor upstream of the seat harness sends the signal to the air bag module to inflate. My car obviously hasn’t been wrecked so no worries there. The replacement air bag module came from the stock Escape seat that had never been deployed, so it really isn’t a concern for me. The only time I would be worried is if you’re doing this in the car that originally wrecked and deployed the bag, and even then it should be good as long as the crash sensors was replaced.

@@shackf16Thanks this helped out a lot, so the module that actually inflated the airbag isn’t located on the RS seat but in the car that was wrecked am I correct?

@@carterhurt8785The airbag and the firing mechanism lives in the side of the seat, but there are crash sensors around the car that will typically trigger the airbags to deploy, and specify which ones. Front crash sensor will trigger front airbags, side impact for side curtains, etc. Otherwise every airbag would deploy on any significant impact. In my case, only the PAX airbag had deployed, so an impact on that side was the trigger.

@@shackf16thanks, that helps a lot! should get finished up with the seat today

@@carterhurt8785 Awesome! Let me know if I can help in any other way. I'd love to hear how it goes.

@@tortuga4340 The stereo bezel came from Amazon (Metra Electronics - Ford Escape 2013-Up (99-5833B) Metra Radio Install kits a.co/d/91Dcqhx) and the stereo is a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX. This is the first aftermarket stereo that had a bright enough screen to be seen in full sunlight that I could find. I've had it a few years now and its great. I actually had a local stereo shop do the install but it's not difficult. It does full wireless CarPlay and Android Auto, and uses a iData Maestro to integrate other features of the car like showing tire pressures (plus low pressure alerts), extra gauges (like boost), and some other functions. I highly recommend it!

@@ELlos210 I hope that works out for you. That might have been a good option for me, but I wanted to see the problem directly to make sure that was what was going on. Good luck!

@@GaryH-pw9cm I've seen folks cut a hole like that in a number of different vehicles. As long as you get a good seal when you reinstall the floor section (or make a new one) then you should be good to go. I hope you never need to do that though...

Yep, still no issues! I’m feeling like this repair will last for a very long time. I’ll do an update if it fails in the future.

@@shackf16 Nylon is tough but will shrink in low humidity situations. That looks like what happened here then a crack started at a weak point. Here the humidity is about 1% today. I plan to keep my Expedition for a long time so I will be on the lookout for any problems. Thanks for the video.

Caulk came after the video. Good call on the retention bracket - I'll be sure to put one in when I relocate it into my garage!

Thanks! I know my videos tend to run a little long, but I try to include lots of info for someone trying to do something similar.

Thanks! I hope it was helpful.

I didn't set up the RFID feature just for ease of use, but it was good knowing it was an option. If I lived in a neighborhood where I was worried that some random person would plug in to charge their car, then I would have used it. I hope the video was helpful.

⁠so there's a usb c port on the side of my unit. Any idea what it's for?

Is the port on the outside of the housing or inside on the motherboard? My thought would be for some kind of hardwired firmware update/recovery if something failed over WiFi?

@@shackf16 it's on the left side of the unit on the outside if your looking at it from the front.

I'm really glad it helped!

Thanks for the head's up! I will be moving the charger inside my garage shortly and will have all of a 3-foot wire run from the subpanel to the charger and will use the proper wire colors at that point.

It’s a Rexing V1P Pro. It has Full HD/1080p cameras front and rear. Rexing says they are 170-degree wide angle and I think that’s close. It captures a very wide view in both directions. I’ve had it a little over 4 years now, and the only problem was the original mounting bracket that is adhered to the windshield had an issue and the camera would fall off when I did a right turn. Rexing replaced it no problem and it’s been perfect since. I haven’t gone back and watched the videos very often, but it has a WiFi capability so you can watch it thru their app on your phone. I have a large capacity (128GB?) microSD card installed, and I picked up a cheap microSD to USB-A adapter to make it easier to view if I ever needed to. I did download the Rexing program for my PC and verified that the GPS data is included in the videos in case I ever needed to fight a bogus speeding ticket. I think having a dash cam is a wise decision in today’s litigious society, and I feel a lot more comfortable knowing it’s there if I ever need it. Here’s the Amazon link: a.co/d/aAyFJmB Unfortunately I did not record the installation process, but it wasn’t too awful. The biggest headache is getting the rear camera cable through the wiring bundle at the top of the hatch - that took some creative use of an old wire clothes hanger. Good luck if you decide to go this route.

Sorry for the long delay in responding, but I wanted to get a good answer - but...I didn't find anything helpful. Obviously the dealership would be a great source for this part if they sold it individually, but doesn't seem like that's an option. Another source would be a local salvage yard. Many of the bigger ones are really just a parts clearing house and you aren't going to be rummaging around in the yard trying to find it still on a vehicle. I'd guess you'd be able to find just that replacement part and it would be significantly cheaper than what the dealership was asking for. Good luck and please chime back in with whatever you discover.

Just took mine out and noted the following wording and part number(s): Ford CUENA CJ54.S43404.B.PIA03 110318003 >ASA< When I Gooooooogled, I found the whole silver plate with the Ford badge, which kinda fits with what the dealership said. i.e. I doubt they sell the plastic housing by itself. Breaker's yard?

🤣

Patti, I’m very grateful that this video helped you out! It’s awesome that you are not afraid to jump in and tackle these kinds of projects.

Thanks!

That's awesome! Can you explain what you used to pop the plastic holder out with? How much force did it require? That is the obvious "easy button" option, I was just scared I'd break the plastic cover and have to replace it as well as the camera. If this camera dies, then I'll go that route and post a new video. I haven't seen anyone actually do it that way, but I've seen a couple of comments like yours that make me want to try it...

I used a flat tip screwdriver and a plastic molding tool. Of course you have to pry the left side only. @@shackf16

I’d love to know how you popped out the plastic holder without opening the hatch. I see four bolts on the inside of the plastic holder that appear to hold the plastic panel to the hatch. I had to access the nuts from inside the hatch to unscrew them. Then I was able to remove the plastic holder.

I just replaced mine, out here in Taiwan. The plastic plate fitting is tight, but I took a chance and figured I may snap the clips. I used a flat bladed screwdriver to prise up the plate, but, yes, the clips snapped pretty easily. Having removed and replaced the camera, I looked at what was there to work with and I came up with a simple and effective fix: th-cam.com/video/viI7Rvvf_74/w-d-xo.html

Yup, works. Took me 5 mins. Start on the left, drivers side, using a small flathead screwdriver to pry the plastic holder to the right and then up and out. Very easy.

I checked on rockauto.com and the part numbers recommended for the Fusion are not the same as for the Escape, so I would definitely NOT purchase the same camera. The Dorman part for the Fusion is 592261 or 590433 - not sure why the have 2 different cameras though. The 1st part number costs $77.79 and the 2nd is $144.79. All 5 of the cameras they list look identical to the one in my Escape on the screen, but quite likely have minor differences that may prove catastrophic to try to install in the wrong vehicle. Good luck!

I believe the brand is Echomaster. A few years ago I suffered a pretty traumatic injury and I’m blind in my right eye (hence the cool Capt America shield on my eye). I had a local stereo shop replace the very lame stock Sync radio of buttons and dials to the new head unit, and they installed the side camera as part of the new setup. There’s a PAC-branded video switcher that connects the side camera to the video input on the receiver so that when my turn signal is active, the camera video pops up. Search Amazon for “Pac Intelligent 4 CAM SWTCHR” - costs about $90 and it’s worked perfectly for nearly 6 years! If you have a Sony system that has the 8 inch screen, then Echomaster has a wiring harness that would connect straight into the factory harness to provide the same capability without changing out the stereo head unit. The camera has saved me a couple of times from changing lanes with someone in my blind spot, and whenever I drive my wife’s car without this setup I catch myself looking at the stereo whenever I try to change lanes and wish she had it. I installed this same type setup in my 2003 Ford Expedition as well, but used 4 cameras (front, rear, left and right). In my mind every car should have this feature!

It’s funny, even though I had just left it hanging sideways - I freaked out a little inside when the image first came up.

I bought it around Jan 1, 2023 for $495. Amazon had some nice deals during Prime day, so if you can wait for Black Friday you’d probably get a better deal. Autel has multiple different EV charger models, but I’m not sure when they first released this version. Some have LCD screens, but that was more boujie than I needed. It’s still working perfectly after 6 months and many charges while being outside in the AZ sun.

@@shackf16 Thanks for the info. Yes, going to hold for a sale. Autel is coming out with a new cord version too. They emailed me. Going to order this unit. Seems as its working well.

Excellent video. Any concerns about insects crawling in through that port in the back where the supply wires come into the unit?

​@@pchoudhu I have added some sealant/caulk around it to minimize any potential incursions. I will actually be moving it inside the garage soon so that my wife can park her car out of the brutal Tucson sun.

ha!!! funny you should mention it. a couple days ago i decided to see why my camera was working intermittently and didn't disconnect the liftgate button and the large plastic section was hanging and swinging like crazy and i thought for sure that button would never work again. i got lucky and it does still work. wish i would have seen your comment a few days ago though. your comment should be pinned to the top!

@@tobymacbailey Pinned!

The camera is as good at night as the OEM camera was. I haven’t done a close examination of the grid line using cones or some other way to measure them, but anecdotally they seem pretty similar to the original ones. I certainly haven’t hit anything and I use them a ton.

I had to replace the clockspring behind the steering wheel in order for the steering wheel buttons to work correctly. I read online of others who changed the wheel without changing the clockspring and none of the buttons would work and one guy’s horn was stuck “on”. I don’t know if you have to replace the SASM (measures the steering angle) but the clockspring assembly that I used had the SASM included with it. I got the entire assembly that included new turn signal/wiper stalks as well as the SASM and clockspring - it made for an easier install.

@@shackf16 Thank for explaining. Now I have to hunt down that steering wheel, air bag and clock spring assembly. They are not cheap in Canada.