วีดีโอ

Hey thanks. If I understand your question, it's all 2-by dimension lumber. Doug fir, so it's 3.5 inches. I think the crochet itself was a scrap of 2-inch sapele, but you could probably just use fir.

Thanks, man. I get a lot of use out of it.

Thanks, man!

Why thank you Dire Straits. Somewhere on that page there is a link to plans.

@@petercoates2882 Amazing, I'll be back when I've made one, thanks!

@@InDireStraits If I were doing it again, I'd make it six inches taller.

@@petercoates2882 how tall are you? If you don't mind!

@@petercoates2882 You feel it's too low? how tall are you? going though your pdf, wanna make a cad drawing, and turn inches to mm. Cant tell how long you've made the bench?

Why thank you. It is certainly for use and not ostentation, as the man said.

You are too kind! One thing I'd do differently if I were doing it again is make it a little taller. Maybe three inches.

Thank you. Stone carving tools are one of the easiest things you can make that is as good as you can buy!

Well thank you. BTW, the video before this one is also informative. th-cam.com/video/_Vc9D0WAX7o/w-d-xo.html

@@petercoates2882 Checking it out for sure!

drive.google.com/file/d/14dQIidz0MqxI0UM1tqfegHlMuY_mdJZ1/view?usp=drive_link Here you go!

I didn't know they were so old. What were they using--bronze? Wrought iron? I'm not actually into traditional tech for it's own sake, btw--I'll use anything! The clamps I reach for most often are actually the Jorgensen hand screws. I love those things. Use them all the time on the bench, most often by using one to clamp down another that can serve as a vice. Be sure to post a picture of what you come up with!

Surprisingly, no problem at all, especially as it's in shop where humidity is not at all constant throughout the year. As I'm sure you know, people more often use rods that run across the full width with threads on each end. But I had a ton of those long thin lags left over from a long ago project and I wanted to use them up. I did a 30x30 platform of the same height and used rods. It's also extremely robust as I use it for heavy stone. But I've never had to tighten up either one. Go figger. BTW, there was an earlier video you might liketh-cam.com/video/_Vc9D0WAX7o/w-d-xo.html and another one about a shave-horse attachment.

Very cool bench but my back is killing me just watching this

Yes. In ancient Rome people had not yet evolved vertebrae so they were able to do this to save wood.

Thank you so much! It's working out for me, BTW. I still use the conventional tall workbench too, and often go back and forth depending on what aspect of something I'm working on.

@@petercoates2882 Peter, I am in the process of making one of these and I was looking at your plans on google docs, and I for the life of me cant see where you detail the length of this bench. Please advise? Also, do you think a 48" long bench would be too short? Tx

@@LitoGeorge Hmm. I thought I replied but got another notification. Maybe I somehow failed to post it? No, I think 48" would be ok. Mine: 57" top, 47" outside of leg to outside of leg, and 24" apron. I think you could knock 10" off. Not sure where you would best lose the length. Maybe an inch on each end, and the rest half from the apron and half from the other part? Lay it out first, and be sure! I do find the plank across for holding tool boxes very useful, so be sure you have room. One other thing minor thing is, I don't think so many notches are necessary. One on each side is nice, because I often want to put in two 2x4 or 4x4 uprights that I can lash things to. But if I were doing it again, I'd hold off on the other two unless you find a reason. They were intended to anchor the legs of the sawhorse, but I haven't ended up doing that very often.If you do put in four, make the angles on the outside for both (mine were all on the same side which is inconvenient for fasting other work surfaces.) What I DO use for a higher work surface is a strong plywood box held down by holdfasts or C clamps. Very versatile, and easy to clamp or screw to. Also, you can mount it either the tall way or the short way as needed. Super easy and the space inside is handy tool space while working.

Yes, you and everyone else! There are a million little tricks.

Thanks. I'm not really much of a machinist, btw. I have a small lathe and mill that I got online some years ago. Mine are from Little Machine Shop, but most of the brands come from the same nameless factory in China somewhere. But just to be clear, a lot of that stuff could be made from hardwood.

Thank you!

Thank you. Everyone's problem---how to make it all fit!

For such a small piece, I would generally just clamp it in a wooden Jorgensen-style clamp and clamp the clamp to the workbench.

@@petercoates2882advice well worth the wait. Thank you kindly.

Hi Frank. Yes, I designed it. I have no plans, but I'll take some pictures for you and make them available. Once you see how it works, it will be obvious. It works great but it could have been much more lightly built and still work!

sculpturetech.art.blog/2020/09/25/the-figure-10-pointing-and-carving/ Oddly enough...

I sent you a blog piece on a pointing machine that I made and use. But you might be interested in this too--it's two parts. The second has more sculpturetech.art.blog/2020/08/20/a-sculpture-enlarging-machine/ pictures.sculpturetech.art.blog/2020/09/19/a-sculpture-enlarging-machine-part-2/

sculpturetech.art.blog/2020/09/25/the-figure-10-pointing-and-carving/ The pointing machine is more robust than you need for small work, but you can use rods of any length to scale it up. The reason it's so overbuilt is that I thought maybe if it were strong enough, I could drill right through the holes, but that wasn't practical. The blocks were 1.25" cold--rolled steel, but you could go smaller, and CR isn't necessary--ordinary hot-rolled mild steel would be fine. The CR is nice for the rods though. The bolts are just ordinary 3/8 coarse thread bolts from the big box store. The only power tool you absolutely need is a drill press and a vice. Don't drill without one, because with holes that big it will easily snatch the steel and throw it! A cutoff saw is nice, but I actually sawed it all with a hacksaw. I've used it for years and it works great.

drive.google.com/file/d/14dQIidz0MqxI0UM1tqfegHlMuY_mdJZ1/view?usp=drive_link Thanks. All the measurements are in this PDF file. The measurements in the other direction are more important, btw. Height and length can be anything, but the width actually matters because it assumes that standard dimension lumber will add up a certain way.

Hey Peter what is the total length of your low Roman bench top and those 2 (2x8) slabs if you don’t mind…thanks and have a nice weekend.😊

Hi Jocelyn. Sorry--dum-ass thing to not put in the plans! For mine: top is 57" outside to outside of legs is 47" and the apron is 24". I don't think the length really matters. The width dimensions are what are important! Nice to see someone building one. If I were doing it again, I think I'd make it a few inches higher, but I'm quite tall. You might consider it anyway. If you're going to make matching horses, remember, they should be the same height and the main rail's should be the same height as the bench. Please let me know how it goes and send a picture!

@@petercoates2882 thanks Peter, it’s almost done…have a nice evening!

Thank you. Sorry to be so long replying.

Thanks. It's been a year---did you build it?

Actually, for my purposes, the regular, boring, European style bench is essential. I use the low one for a lot of cutting, planing, etc., but mostly for carving. And I use conventional clamps with it a lot. The traditional tricks are handy for woodworking, but a lot of what I do is mounting platforms on it for attaching a carving vice, etc. So far, 80% has been me straddling it and chipping away at some carving held in the vice.

@@petercoates2882 Thanks. I'm making small pieces of cabinetmaking, and in my small workspace it's tempting to go for one of these little benches. But it may be a step too far - I'll have to think it through. If I do end up building a Nicholson-style English workbench I may steal your idea of leaving a gap between the top and the skirt so I can use conventional C and F clamps. I think that this is your invention, and it looks interesting!

@@tullochgorum6323 Honestly, if I had to have just one, it would be the 36" high one. The low benches are at their best if you're using all manual tools. The thing my tall bench doesn't have is the ability to use hold-fasts, because only the front edge is full thickness. The rest isn't thick enough to use them. If you're making one, that's a key feature (at least for me.)

@@petercoates2882 I'm 100% with you on the usefulness of hold-fasts. I was trained at high-school in the '60s in an old-school shop and that's how we worked. If I go for the higher bench, I'm planning a Nicholson-style viceless design with a skirt and dog holes covering the top, sides and legs. Thanks to TH-cam I've found quick and elegant approaches to holding pretty much any kind of work on this type of bench - and it's a lot cheaper than buying a fancy vice!

Hey thanks. I’ll have a look

Oh! This reply is so old and I never replied. Hope it worked out. Good idea about accommodating clamps. People forget that they can be very handy and do jobs that a vice will not.

drive.google.com/file/d/14dQIidz0MqxI0UM1tqfegHlMuY_mdJZ1/view?usp=drive_link Enjoy your new house!

Hello. Actually, I think I'd make it a little higher if I were doing it again. But a lot of people do make them pretty short. Me, I'm not a real Roman.

Thanks!