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@@tonyinfinity the RCA grounding is inadequate usually. Some older pioneers have PICO fuses that cause additional resistance. It works but adding a ground to the same source at a lower resistance. It is like adding an additional ground to an alternator to ensure it has adequate grounding

@@UzsDc1UZ Makes sense but unfortunately didn't work for me. About to go back outside and pull the stereo out and try and track down this noise.

@tonyinfinity I gotcha man, what's your setup consist of? I found a pretty much permanent fix but it is kind of annoying, and that fix is running every ground in your system to the negative on battery especially the headunit to prevent any other ground loops

@ I fixed it! I have an old 1994 Lexus that I just wanted a newer aftermarket head-unit with a backup camera. I installed the radio and got the dreaded alternator whine that got louder the more I hit the gas. Tried the ground wire around the RCA jacks, didn't work. Tried the RCA noise filter and it killed the sound quality. So now I just ran solid copper wire from the radio case and the ground wire from the unit straight to the steel frame and it eliminated.

@tonyinfinity that's awesome man, glad it helped. Super weird issue 😂

@@shadow36057 not at all no

@@pierre2379 genuinely, you could drop one in and splice the wires but I recommend a single voice coil subwoofer so it's easy to drop in. I can't guarantee fitment though man

@ facts, what size would you recommend? And is there anyway I could get around the splicing 😂 I don’t know how to splice fr

Tbh you'll probably have to splice, I think you may find a kit online that can do that but your best bet is honestly splicing. It's really easy bro i'd watch a video on splicing. I think a 10 year old can learn how to splice by watching a video

Id also find a subwoofer that's the same exact size. My GS came with a 10 but idk what yours would be. If you have any specific questions I'd call crutchfield. They're really good about stuff like this

Bet that bro, appricate the info, ima go see what I can get and get back to you and for others too

Factory 10" pioneer subwoofer

Yeah that's what I ended up doing, I ran all my amps off a common power and ground to ensure 1 direct connection to the battery. Also have high pre out voltage connections from my head unit to DSP so I can lower the gain and reduce the noise floor as well

Do you mean run the ground to the battery negative and the live to the battery positive?

@comfortablynumb8832 exactly, straight from the source

@@UzsDc1UZ thanks mate I’ll give it a try

@@comfortablynumb8832 Exactly.

It was fully stock at the time

@UzsDc1UZ nice I plan on getting a gs300 3.92 diff Cold air intake and a exhaust probably 2.25 - 2.5 in I also did a e85 flex kit while it was all stock and it woke up pretty good

@6mtdrino that's nice man, a 3.92 should help tremendously. It might be the same 0-60 because it will have to shift before 60 but anywhere else it'll definitely gain acceleration

Like physically moving up and down?

@ correct. Like if it’s wired correctly + to + and - to - Would it move or not?

@IzzYChannel usually a blown sub will move but if it's really seized up and the windings of the voice coil have come undone and are stuck in the gap then the whole suspension has no where to go and it'll remain stuck. If it's not moving and you can confirm it's getting power or you can slightly hear something then it's most likely blown. Try to confirm the tinsel leads are also connected on the terminals properly still and verify by trying to look if the leads are hooked into the voice coil but I know this can be tricky in some designs

@ I looked at the leads, pushed on the sub itself, moves normally and there’s no crunching or any weird noise… tested with the battery and it moves up and down, again, without any weird noises but when I connect it to the amp doesn’t do anything…

@IzzYChannel you sure the output circuit on the amp isn't blown?

Yes, exactly!

That's awesome man haha

I have the a2800 running my front soundstage rn

Me too, they put in such weak grounding from the factory it's pretty annoying

@@UzsDc1UZ well there's no other way but to diy. Were on the same problem🤷

I wouldn't go anymore than 2.5cu ft

Hey bro, the rear is plastic???

@@UzsDc1UZ yes

Never realized I've been saying it like that 🤣🤣

Hey I've had these for almost 2 years now with no noticeable sounds, they've been performing great. Just grease them a lot and go overboard with the grease, it will get messy but just wipe the excess off after installation

The formulation has a proper packing to replicate the characteristics of water under loading. I actually talked to my engineering research professor about this. This is for performance not OEM. These also have a lifetime warranty on them. The formulation is so special because it's probably patented and kept away from whistleblowers so yeah I don't know much about them you are right

Awesome choice and thanks man. I believe I had the mod list in my other video for a normal touge road. It's basically on stickies, coilovers, arms, links, and that's pretty much it and some minor bushings

I've bought some steering rack bushings and toe arms from them. Pretty high quality of you ask me and I beat on them on the mountains and autocross

No luck.

@kadent7320 🥲

Sometimes it will sound like that because it's open air into the atmosphere and the suspension of the subwoofer maxes out so that's why it sounds like that. You should definitely check to see if that sound happens at all volumes and if it's enclosed

In this video I think I was using a taramps dsp1600, then I switched to a Wolfram aw1500.1

If you grease them up liberally they won't squeak for a very long time, mine have been good for 30k miles now

Wrap in teflon tape not overlaping, grease heavily squeaking will stop

I custom designed it and a buddy built it. My recent one I designed and built myself

Ok

Thank you for this video. I’ve wasted WEEKS trying to figure out my noise problem. Same HU. No problems for 4 years. Changed sub amps and started getting the noise. Common power to distribution block. Different grounds. Ground loop isolator didn’t help. Still don’t know what the real cause is but this bandaid eliminated the noise for me so THANK YOU. Even NVX tech support issued me a return and said it must be a faulty amp bc they were stumped.

@@SlikeGarage dang dude that's awesome glad I can help. have you tried doing both on same ground wire? That fixed my issue completely. I ran a distribution block and put both amps on it

I'm using a stock hu with line level out to my lc7i. Power and ground wires are both running to the battery terminals to 2 amps through 2 distribution blocks. One for 4 channel, one for subs. The whining, electrical noise raises when rpms increased but is always there, always loud. Did you do the big 3 upgrade? That's my next move. I don't know what else to do. Power and speaker wires are separated on opposite sides of vehicle.

@JaRuuizz hmm, quick question, you say you have 2 distribution blocks are those also 2 separate power wires to battery or one large one? Also, is the headunit power and ground wired directly to the battery? Quick way to check is to plug an RCA and 3.5mm from ur phone to the amp directly to see if there is noise present with the vehicle on

@@UzsDc1UZ 1 4 gauge power from +battery to distribution block, splitting into 2 amps. 1 4 gauge ground from -battery to distribution block, splitting into 2 amps. All wire runs are 4 gauge, distribution block just used to split, not reduce. I don't think it's the RCA's or the 3.5mm, it sounds fine when the Car is on accessory. As soon as the engine is on thought it's loud whining and electrical whizzing like winding up an old hand crank radio. I haven't done the big 3 yet, but I'm assuming that's what it is? I donno Bought 0 gauge to do it

Dude I remember I had to do the same thing 💀 that's why I made this video

@@UzsDc1UZI just wedging it with a hammer 🔨 and it came flying out ✅ thanks 🙏

any updates i have the same issue

@mouch8533 yeah look at my pinned comment

Did it work?